13 Pin Conversion

[garethdeb]

Hi folks

Been a while since I've been here, don't know why, our van is our passion!

I apologise if this topic has already been covered but I did try a search but didn't come up with anything.

I did something stupid this summer when towing down to Cornwall and didn't properly route my 12N cable properly when I hitched up. Consequently when we got to the site the cable had dragged and gone through three of the 7 cores completely. I did a temp repair with good old chock block (always keep some in the van) and electrical tape so got home fine but I know need a permanent fix.

I'm considering replacing both 12N and 12S cables to the euro 13 pin cable as it saves the hassle of using the converter lead and generally tidy's up the A frame but I was wondering if anyone else had done this? I'm planning on doing it properly and terminating the cable inside the van under the offside bunk where the cables currently come into the van but wondered how to do it, ie, what kind of JB to use, etc.

Any advice would be most appreciated.

Regards

Gareth

[Ich]

Well rated chocolate block connectors are possibly the best, but make sure you can (and do) check them for tightness. Auto-motive crimp connectors should also be acceptable but ensure you use a good quality crimping tool.

 

I'm planning on a similar conversion but as the 'van has no habitation relay I'll need to modify the wiring to provide battery charging as fitted via the present 12S plug

[Czech connection]

Get a 13pin plug with double cable entry at the rear, easy job to wire up.

 

[nme2no1]

I'm just about to do this.

 

I have obtained from a local electrical wholesaler, a plastic waterproof junction box about 3. 5 x 3. 5 x 2 inches. 3 compression cable glands. I'm going to mount the box under the 'A' frame cover. I'm going to run the existing 2 x 7 core cables into the box and then run the new cable from the 13 pin plug into the box. The whole lot will be then crimped together with good quality crimps (crimps are more reliable than soldering or screw connectors). I think the job will take less than 2 hrs from start to finish, then in have the car to do!

 

I'm quite happy to take photographs if anyone is interested.

[Shirl250]

Get a 13pin plug with double cable entry at the rear, easy job to wire up.

 

 

 

I'm just about to replace our 13 pin caravan plug for a dual entry one. Our current one just has a single entry even though we have two cables. We have a problem with our left indicator wire - it's too short and keeps coming adrift.

 

Can anyone tell me if they all have two rings of screw holes ? The one on already is really fiddly to get the lower wires in (especially the no. 1 yellow left indicator whenever it pulls out !) It would be easier to have just one ring of screw holes. Do these plugs vary in this way or are they all the same in the way the screws for the wires are arranged ?

 

I have seen a 'compact' plug and I think that is what is on there now and do not want the same one.

Edited September 7, 2014 by Shirl250

[Ldsundance]

when changing the vans wiring originally I used 12 core cable and crimped female spade connectors, so you only have to do it once,second time I got 13 core cable used female crimp connectors but soldered them so they plug straight into the fuse box, but get enough cable that you can loop excees under the van not sure if I used 3 meters or 5

[philspot]

Shirl250 . ....I have 4 13-pin plugs in total and they all have the "inner and outer" rings for connecting the cable(s) to them. No visible difference between the single-entry and double-entry plugs, either, although the one with the "screw-on" tail cap is much easier to re-wire if you ever have to. (one of the others was a real ********* to get apart so as to reuse it). I haven't found any real problem with the connecting of the individual wires - even my fumble fingers did the job effectively, if slowly!

Edited September 7, 2014 by philspot

[BrianI]

One thing to note if you buy 13 core cable is that the cores are arranged in the same order as the terminals on the plug. However, this only works if you connect the plug to the correct end of the cable as the other end will be a mirror image. It's worth while to take time looking at the core arrangement. It does not matter what the arrangement is at the other end if you are connecting into a terminal block.

Brian

[Shirl250]

Shirl250 . ....I have 4 13-pin plugs in total and they all have the "inner and outer" rings for connecting the cable(s) to them. No visible difference between the single-entry and double-entry plugs, either, although the one with the "screw-on" tail cap is much easier to re-wire if you ever have to. (one of the others was a real ********* to get apart so as to reuse it). I haven't found any real problem with the connecting of the individual wires - even my fumble fingers did the job effectively, if slowly!

 

Thanks for this. I'll just go for it then. The one we've got has a screw on tail cap and is easy to get apart but it and the rubber grommet then have to go over the amalgamating tape that was used so I've had to cut all that off so that I can get to the screws and wires. I figured with a double entry I don't need the tape and so it should be easier to get at. .... hopefully I won't have to though !

 

It will be interesting to see why this No 1 Yellow Left Indicator wire is too short and keeps getting pulled out . ..... Perhaps they've all got a bit twisted or the screw in the plug isn't tightening properly. .... etc.

Edited September 7, 2014 by Shirl250

[dreadly]

I'm just about to do this.

 

I have obtained from a local electrical wholesaler, a plastic waterproof junction box about 3. 5 x 3. 5 x 2 inches. 3 compression cable glands. I'm going to mount the box under the 'A' frame cover. I'm going to run the existing 2 x 7 core cables into the box and then run the new cable from the 13 pin plug into the box. The whole lot will be then crimped together with good quality crimps (crimps are more reliable than soldering or screw connectors). I think the job will take less than 2 hrs from start to finish, then in have the car to do!

 

I'm quite happy to take photographs if anyone is interested.

Exactly what I would do. Also fully agree regarding the crimping. Try and use crimps that have heat shrink covers and then you can make any joins fully waterproof to prevent any corrosion, even if using a waterproof junction box. Better safe than sorry

[Shirl250]

I'm just about to do this.

 

I have obtained from a local electrical wholesaler, a plastic waterproof junction box about 3. 5 x 3. 5 x 2 inches. 3 compression cable glands. I'm going to mount the box under the 'A' frame cover. I'm going to run the existing 2 x 7 core cables into the box and then run the new cable from the 13 pin plug into the box. The whole lot will be then crimped together with good quality crimps (crimps are more reliable than soldering or screw connectors). I think the job will take less than 2 hrs from start to finish, then in have the car to do!

 

I'm quite happy to take photographs if anyone is interested.

 

So the crimped together wires are all encased in the waterproof connection box with the two cables going in and one 13 core cable coming out which is then fed to the 13 pin caravan plug. Sounds very neat. Yes some pictures please.

Edited September 7, 2014 by Shirl250

[millerhouse12]

I did this job a while ago on my previous caravan in much the same way as you have suggested. I had to cut the 7N & 7S cables outside the caravan as the 7S was wired straight into my Al-Ko ATC unit and I didn't want to disturb that!. Drilled new holes in the floor under the front chest of drawers and fed the cut cables into the caravan and joined to new 13 pin cable using heavy-duty choc-blocs so no need to waorry about waterproofing. I got the 13 pin (3 metres) cable & plug from Sargent Electrical as their cable has the thicker 2. 5mm wires where necessary. I made up a wiring diagram which I've attached below if it's any use. The cable colours are the ones normally used but some continental ones may be different.

 

John M

13 Pin Wiring. pdf

[nme2no1]

So the crimped together wires are all encased in the waterproof connection box with the two cables going in and one 13 core cable coming out which is then fed to the 13 pin caravan plug. Sounds very neat. Yes some pictures please.

 

Yes it will be neat, it will be convenient if the 13 core cable gets damaged, just a short length to renew.

[garethdeb]

John M,

Your wiring diagram is absolutely brilliant!! I would have worked it out myself but would have taken me a few hours of wire chasing so many thanks indeed for that, perfect.

I'm also considering wiring it all into a 13 pin socket and attaching that to the side of the A frame near the hitch so I can then use a stretchy telephone cable type lead to the car, reason being I had a pair of them on our last van and they were superb as they didn't hang and I didn't have to worry about them snagging when manoeuvring. I take it you CAN get a curly cable type 13 pin interconnection cable?

Regards

Gareth

[Ich]

I did this job a while ago on my previous caravan in much the same way as you have suggested.

 

As a learning question as I've not come across it.

What does the sensing device wire do and where would it connect on the car & caravan?

 

I'm also considering wiring it all into a 13 pin socket and attaching that to the side of the A frame near the hitch

 

I have that on ours with short leads to go to the car, planning on doping the same when I switch to a 13pin.

Also useful as the leads can be totally removed from the van

Edited September 12, 2014 by Ich

[BrianI]

As a learning question as I've not come across it.

What does the sensing device wire do and where would it connect on the car & caravan?

 

It's not utilised so in effect a spare connection

Brian

[Shirl250]

John M,

Your wiring diagram is absolutely brilliant!! I would have worked it out myself but would have taken me a few hours of wire chasing so many thanks indeed for that, perfect.

I'm also considering wiring it all into a 13 pin socket and attaching that to the side of the A frame near the hitch so I can then use a stretchy telephone cable type lead to the car, reason being I had a pair of them on our last van and they were superb as they didn't hang and I didn't have to worry about them snagging when manoeuvring. I take it you CAN get a curly cable type 13 pin interconnection cable?

Regards

Gareth

 

With the two wires that are thicker - let me know. ......... ?

[BrianI]

With the two wires that are thicker - let me know. ......... ?

Only two? There are five wires that are thicker. See diagram in post #12 above.

Brian

[Shirl250]

Only two? There are five wires that are thicker. See diagram in post #12 above.

Brian

 

Blimey - I noticed two ! Where's me print out . ...... !

 

Oh ok 3(white), 9(orange), 10(grey) and 11(black/white) . .... that's 4 ! Is 13(red/white) a thicky too ?

 

So where is this specific 13 strand cable available ?

 

Found it : 12 core trailer cable . ...... it's not curly though. .....

Edited September 12, 2014 by Shirl250

[BrianI]

Blimey - I noticed two ! Where's me print out . ...... !

Oh ok 3(white), 9(orange), 10(grey) and 11(black/white) . .... that's 4 ! Is 13(red/white) a thicky too ?

So where is this specific 13 strand cable available ?

Yes13 is thick also.

You can get the right cable here

http://sargentshop. co. uk/epages/eshop328964. sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/eshop328964/Categories/ShopHome/Cable

Here is another diagram

http://www. sargentltd. co. uk/ISO11446_Data. pdf

 

You can get the cable elsewhere. Just make sure it is to ISO standard 11446

 

Google "13 core caravan cable" and you will get a few more.

Brian

[Gareth78]

Hi Everyone.

does anyone have a pinout diagram of the 13 pin socket?

cheers

[Guest]

4 hours ago, Gareth78 said:

Hi Everyone.

does anyone have a pinout diagram of the 13 pin socket?

cheers