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Disconnecting Ehu Lead


Daveg
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Hi

 

Does anyone have any problems disconnecting EHU from van . Mine is really stiff and need some force to get it off, and feel like i will do some damage to van uncoupling . does any one grease or lubricate this, bearing in mind it is electric

 

Thanks

 

Dave

Car -- VW Passat Tech   Estate 
Caravan -- 2019 Elddis Affinity 

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Hi

 

Does anyone have any problems disconnecting EHU from van . Mine is really stiff and need some force to get it off, and feel like i will do some damage to van uncoupling . does any one grease or lubricate this, bearing in mind it is electric

 

Thanks

 

Dave

 

You can indeed grease it, nothing wrong with that. But use the appropriate grease. Use Contralube 770. http://contralube. com/contralube-770/

 

Squirt some inside the electrical contact holes in your vans socket then connect and disconnect a few times. Happy days. I did the same for the same reasons.

Edited by dreadly

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.

Mahatma Gandhi

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The end that goes into the van has a 'male' plastic shield to push into a 'female' plastic hole in the side of the van.

All these plugs and sockets can suffer from the edges of the male shield getting damaged and a bit burred over. File this edge to make it an easier fit.

Hope this helps

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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Though not conventional, but in view of the low voltage involved a bit of Vaseline can work wonders.

 

Mod edit. Ich forgot it was mains not 12V so don't use vaseline.

My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely

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Although I use Vaseline on the 12v battery posts I wouldn't use it on any 240v electrical connections

Paul B

. .......Mondeo Estate & Elddis Avanté 505 (Tobago)

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Although I use Vaseline on the 12v battery posts I wouldn't use it on any 240v electrical connections

 

Shows how thinking about my own 12V issues affects what I post.

Yes absolutely correct I withdraw my comment (I'd edit the post but the time limit prevents this)

My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely

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Shows how thinking about my own 12V issues affects what I post.

Yes absolutely correct I withdraw my comment (I'd edit the post but the time limit prevents this)

Can I just also add that you should never use Vaseline on any rubber seals or O-rings as it will rot them. This is why you should not use it on 13pin towing sockets as they also use a rubber seal. Several caravan component manufacturers have this advice in their owners manuals, including Whale for example :- http://www. whalepumps. com/rv/siteFiles/resources/docs/resource-library/ah_181. 041_v1_0314. pdf

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.

Mahatma Gandhi

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Can I just also add that you should never use Vaseline on any rubber seals or O-rings as it will rot them.

 

It is fair to say that a lot of commonly used stuff rots other commonly used stuff, perhaps the important point to include is over what period of time!

My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely

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Though this is interesting!

 

 

I think I'll try similar with a 500volt tester.

My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely

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I tried to watch it but fell asleep!

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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An easy and effective lubricant for the plastic (not contacts) is olive oil - and it is non-conductive!

Edited by Woodentop

2018 Passat B8 Estate 150GT TDi150 towing a 2018 Bailey Unicorn S4 Seville

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If you use Olive Oil does that mean you won't have to be Popeye to pull the plug out :-)

Mike

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Just a thought but no one has mentioned that the spring cover on the mains socket latches onto the plug fitted to the caravan to keep it in place. You should lift the cover before pulling the socket away. Although it will still come away without lifting it will require much more force.

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The other useful lubricant for all sorts of things, especially plastic and rubber, is silicone spray.

Screwfix sell a spray can very cheaply, meant for easing together of plastic drain components.

 

I also use it for door hinges and catches in the caravan, it is not messy like oil.

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The other useful lubricant for all sorts of things, especially plastic and rubber, is silicone spray.

Screwfix sell a spray can very cheaply, meant for easing together of plastic drain components.

 

I also use it for door hinges and catches in the caravan, it is not messy like oil.

From a different thread:

We advise all customers to refrain from using any lubricants or materials containing silicone, the reason is that silicone, through some industry tests, are known to severely affect the integrity of sealants and abs components, even just the over spray blown in the area or sealed external components such as exterior locker doors, awning rails, window seals etc.

 

Scott

 

Northwest regional assesor

So. .. you make your own assessment I guess.

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From a different thread:

 

So. .. you make your own assessment I guess.

I agree. That's why I use Contralube.

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.

Mahatma Gandhi

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I have used petroleum jelly on battery terminals and to pack electrical boxes for years without problem. I would not use grease one as some grease can degrade and form an acid residue but mainly as some grease contains conductors like graphite.

 

The idea to fill an electrical box is because petroleum jelly expands and contracts less than air so is less likely to draw in water. However as pointed out it is an insulator so placing on contacts it could insulate where insulation is not wanted. Much debate has gone on where petroleum jelly and oxides of copper are mixed if these will produce a high resistance. Where there is copper to copper the petroleum jelly will be pushed clear but where the petroleum jelly mixes with copper oxides this may not be the case. It is of course true of any lubricant it's not the lubricant which is in question but contaminates in the lubricant.

 

I am sure a small amount of petroleum jelly will not cause any problems but excessive amounts could cause contaminates to adhere to the plug or socket. Lubricants like WD40 have an advantage that in time they do evaporate but also they are flammable so again very small amount will likely cause no harm but large amounts are a completely different story.

 

I have used many rubber like seals and many recommend the use of a small amount of petroleum jelly. Hellermann oil would be the correct product this is designed to ease the fitting of rubber sleeves to electrical cables with a tool that looks like castration pliers but finding a supply would be hard.

 

I would agree with video rather pointless exercise with a multi-meter. With a PAT tester using 500 volt for insulation and 25 amp for continuity yes but a multi-meter rather pointless. But since the problem is contaminates not the petroleum jelly rather pointless.

 

I have seen where a 16A plug have welded themselves to the socket to do that there must have been a bad connection and as a result heat. As to what caused the bad connection no idea. Could be just copper oxide or contaminates. With the standard 7 pin plug car to caravan I have fitted and removed repeatedly purely to self clean pins after its been left over the winter. The 16A plug has a higher voltage so unlike the 12 volt one it does not just fail but it over heats.

 

So I would say a little lubrication with a pure lubricant be it cooking oil, petroleum jelly, or 3 in 1 is OK but really it has to be just a little and use of engine oils or vehicle greases is a no because of the additives which can conduct. But if it's hard then often that means copper oxide build up and possible other contaminates so end of season when it's not going to be used for 6 months give it a good squirt of WD40 to wash it clean with time for it to dry but still leave a film to stop more copper oxide forming. Do remember WD40 does burn so don't use just before energising as it could go bang.

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Of course Contralube or similar compounds are seen as the answer.

That is until you try putting a fuse in with the compound on the contacts and pick a couple of hundred amps of load up, at which point it can get spectacular. Even more so if you re energising a fault on the system.

My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely

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Of course Contralube or similar compounds are seen as the answer.

That is until you try putting a fuse in with the compound on the contacts and pick a couple of hundred amps of load up, at which point it can get spectacular. Even more so if you re energising a fault on the system.

Not sure why you would be putting in a fuse with the power not isolated? I always would, but I'm no expert!

:)

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.

Mahatma Gandhi

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Not sure why you would be putting in a fuse with the power not isolated?

 

Standard operating practice in the Electricity Boards (DNOs) with fuses up to a rating of 630amp.

My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely

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Standard operating practice in the Electricity Boards (DNOs) with fuses up to a rating of 630amp.

Ouch! - Contralube does not go that high. .. They do another formula for those kinds of powers. It's called Contralube 880. .. Not tried it personally :ph34r: But they claim "Burns cleanly when exposed to arcing conditions leaving no carbon deposits".

 

See --> http://contralube. com/contralube-880/

 

I did blow a 400amp street fuse as a kid though, that removed a LOT of plaster from my bedroom wall. Our house fuses had been 'triple wrapped' for your convenience :o

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.

Mahatma Gandhi

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Some times the unexpected happens. I would clean starter motor parts in petrol with no problems. One day however I used paraffin instead which one would think was safer but result was it had not completely evaporated when it came to reassembly so when fitted to vehicle there was a big bang.

 

Most lubricants burn. There are exceptions of course. So either one looks for the expensive exceptions or use it with some thought to the dangers. Although WD40 burns better than cooking oil give it half an hour and only the thinnest film of WD40 will remain but there will be loads of cooking oil adhering to the socket.

 

What still concerns me is contaminates. Or the copper oxide oil mixture resulting from using any lubricants which can cause a high resistant barrier and as a result heat and melting of the plug.

 

Simple fact the plug should not be that tight so assuming the lid is lifted to allow removal if very tight maybe better to renew than use a lubricant. Yes I would lubricate but I would also check it and can't really see how we can instruct on testing and inspecting on a forum.

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I bought an old trailer many years ago and the lights were doing weird things.

 

when I took the 12N plug to pieces, someone had filled it with copper grease !! :rolleyes:

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