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Hi - looking to tidy up the battery connections on our van - Currently its 3 twisted wires directly wired to the battery ( we have a mover ) . Looking to solder each of the 3 connections into a "spade or blade " connector - any advice as to whats available

Edited by bivvyman

Landcruiser + Bailey Unicorn Valencia

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Personally. .. I have just changed my battery connectors for these --->

You can just put all of the wires into them and then tidy the wires up using some electrical tape or similar.

$_12.JPG

Edited by dreadly

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.

Mahatma Gandhi

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Bear in mind the more current drawn the more surface area contact that is required. There is a good arguement that the mover cables should be left bare, not even twisted, to ensure that the maximum surface area is used.

2018 Passat B8 Estate 150GT TDi150 towing a 2018 Bailey Unicorn S4 Seville

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I have those fitted Dreadly, but I find I have to keep an eye on them, as they do work loose.

2011 Land Rover Freelander 2, Lago grey 2013 Freelander Dynamic Black, followed by a 2013 Elddis 574 Magnum GT white

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I have those fitted Dreadly, but I find I have to keep an eye on them, as they do work loose.

I tighten them up using an impact screwdriver, they don't come loose as much now.

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.

Mahatma Gandhi

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One step I was taught when an apprentice ( at GPO) working on lead, low voltage (includes 12 and 50 volts), system terminals was to smear the terminals with petroleum jelly ( Vaseline) and THEN rub with emery paper, fine file or similar, this causes the Vaseline to become a suspension of fine lead particles and makes it good conductor (petroleum jelly isn't very conductive), you can also do the connector up to a light friction fit and then rotate the connecting surfaces instead if you've not emery or a file handy.

 

Alternatively most of the various "battery terminal grease" options that are now available have a suspension of copper already in them BUT don't just use Vaseline or normal car grease by itself as as although this will stop corrosion and hence stop contact getting worse, it won't actually improve the connection.

 

BTW I agree about the connectors above coming loose - I've ditched mine and replaced with a clamp due to poor performance with my Motor Mover!

 

Jim

"keep your motor running"

caravan: Avondale Avocet ( 2006) - tow car: Renault Laguna (2007) - play car: Mercedes 300SL (1988)

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BTW I agree about the connectors above coming loose - I've ditched mine and replaced with a clamp due to poor performance with my Motor Mover!

Indeed, on inland boats where regulations are a lot tighter and where the boat has to have a five- yearly safety certificate those connectors are not permitted. You MUST use a clamp, and the main connection to the clamp must be by at least 2 screws onto the bare copper conductors.

 

Tony

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One step I was taught when an apprentice ( at GPO) working on lead, low voltage (includes 12 and 50 volts), system terminals was to smear the terminals with petroleum jelly ( Vaseline) and THEN rub with emery paper, fine file or similar, this causes the Vaseline to become a suspension of fine lead particles and makes it good conductor (petroleum jelly isn't very conductive), you can also do the connector up to a light friction fit and then rotate the connecting surfaces instead if you've not emery or a file handy.

 

Alternatively most of the various "battery terminal grease" options that are now available have a suspension of copper already in them BUT don't just use Vaseline or normal car grease by itself as as although this will stop corrosion and hence stop contact getting worse, it won't actually improve the connection.

 

BTW I agree about the connectors above coming loose - I've ditched mine and replaced with a clamp due to poor performance with my Motor Mover!

 

Jim

Never heard of this interesting idea. I'll file it away in my mind for when my battery gets looked at this winter. Thanks

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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Never heard of this interesting idea. I'll file it away in my mind for when my battery gets looked at this winter. Thanks

I just use Contralube on the terminals now.

 

See Myth number 2 --->. http://contralube. com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Why_contralube_-_Facts__Myths_About_Lubricating_Electrical_Connectors. pdf

Edited by dreadly

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.

Mahatma Gandhi

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I was using a megger on a length of cable and there was

steam coming out of it, where it had been stored outside

for a couple of days. A similar cable that had its ends lubed

did not, although it was stored in the same conditions.

You have seen what happens when you get a bad connection

and cut the insulation back, only to find the expected bright copper

is black and can be for several inches back. (often on rearlight

connections) Contralube and similar can help prevent this

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Never heard of this interesting idea. I'll file it away in my mind for when my battery gets looked at this winter. Thanks

 

I'm sure that I've an old book somewhere (RG41 I think or it may have been an RG71?) detailing the exact process ( sad I know but I kept some of the stuff from that time for "historical interest")

 

If I find it I'll copy it here for interest :)

 

Amazing some of the stuff I was taught as an apprentice ( Y2YC to be precise "Youth 2 Year Course") that has been useful on may occasions since.

 

Jim

"keep your motor running"

caravan: Avondale Avocet ( 2006) - tow car: Renault Laguna (2007) - play car: Mercedes 300SL (1988)

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