Unicorn 3 Motor Mover Issue

[Scaramanga]

I emailed Powrtouch the other day to enquire whether having the battery box now under the floor poses any cabling issues. Well got a phone call back of Powrtouch technical this afternoon and apparently it does. They told me they have no solution as yet to the problem but hopefully they will have in a couple of weeks. They have had numerous dealerships asking the same question and Powrtouch have been in meetings with Bailey over this.

 

So there is the possibility that if you came to fit a mover at this current time to a U3, you wouldnt be able to

[Gaz40]

I emailed Powrtouch the other day to enquire whether having the battery box now under the floor poses any cabling issues. Well got a phone call back of Powrtouch technical this afternoon and apparently it does. They told me they have no solution as yet to the problem but hopefully they will have in a couple of weeks. They have had numerous dealerships asking the same question and Powrtouch have been in meetings with Bailey over this.

 

So there is the possibility that if you came to fit a mover at this current time to a U3, you wouldnt be able to

 

There goes the old saying . .... When Push Comes To shove.

 

I'm sure they'll find a solution, it may be more weather proof cabling and sealing gromets. As long as it doesn't compromise the battery box, come carrier and maybe a couple of inline relays. But for sure it will add to the cost but once your committed, your committed.

Edited August 29, 2014 by Gaz40

[Scaramanga]

Yes they obviously will have to make a add-on cabling kit for the U3. I have put suggestions to powrtouch about fitting the isolator to the alternative wet locker. But i see issues with various models with locker locations etc. Maybe a weatherproof box for the isolator and fixed to the underside of the floor??? Just hope they come up with a sensible solution

[lesbunny]

In the words of Homer Simpson. ............ this just gets worse and worse. ......... Doh

[Cadiz 3]

My dealer contacted me regarding fitting motor mover. Main switch . Went & had a look with the fitter. & decided to fit main sw in bottom of bed box on the offside. Inside the van. ( cadiz) . Couldn't see any better option . Fingers crossed it all goes ok

[Glen and Les]

The isolator switch doesn't have to be fitted inside a locker - there was no room in our conventional battery box so our dealer fitted it adjacent to it through the caravan side wall - it's more convenient, in fact, as you just need to lift up the flap and put the key in. No more risk of grounding the locker door if you forget to close it, as nearly happened to us once!

[Gaz40]

The isolator switch doesn't have to be fitted inside a locker - there was no room in our conventional battery box so our dealer fitted it adjacent to it through the caravan side wall - it's more convenient, in fact, as you just need to lift up the flap and put the key in. No more risk of grounding the locker door if you forget to close it, as nearly happened to us once!

 

Instant solution, just the battery box position now. ...... that's if it is a problem.

[millerhouse12]

If I remember correctly, Swift are producing some caravans for the 2015 model year prewired for a mover. Perhaps Bailey need to do the same?

 

John M

[xtrailman]

The isolator switch doesn't have to be fitted inside a locker - there was no room in our conventional battery box so our dealer fitted it adjacent to it through the caravan side wall - it's more convenient, in fact, as you just need to lift up the flap and put the key in. No more risk of grounding the locker door if you forget to close it, as nearly happened to us once!

 

That sounds like the wall has been cut to fit the box?

So more expense.

 

Its disappointing that Bailey appear to have not thought through the effect of relocating the battery.

Does anyone know whether the battery box is vented?

[Caravanmedicswindon]

Firstly I haven't seen this particular model of caravan so I don't fully understand the concern, but. ...... I don't see why the position of the battery/ battery box would cause a problem with a mover installation, can someone enlighten me as inevitably I will be asked to fit one soon? Thanks.

 

Incidentally the isolation switch should be fitted somewhere for easy access to isolate the battery in an emergency situation.

[Scaramanga]

Firstly I haven't seen this particular model of caravan so I don't fully understand the concern, but. ...... I don't see why the position of the battery/ battery box would cause a problem with a mover installation, can someone enlighten me as inevitably I will be asked to fit one soon? Thanks.

 

Incidentally the isolation switch should be fitted somewhere for easy access to isolate the battery in an emergency situation.

The main issue is with the length of cable the mover manufacturers supply that connects from the battery to the isolator and then to the control unit(s). If the battery is in the middle of the floor then the cable run wont be long enough to allow the isolator to be suitably positioned or to hide the control units Edited August 30, 2014 by Scaramanga

[Gaz40]

If I remember correctly, Swift are producing some caravans for the 2015 model year prewired for a mover. Perhaps Bailey need to do the same?

 

John M

 

That's an excellent idea by Swift. I guess though it probably limits you to one particular brand of mover.

[Glen and Les]

That sounds like the wall has been cut to fit the box?

So more expense.

 

Its disappointing that Bailey appear to have not thought through the effect of relocating the battery.

Does anyone know whether the battery box is vented?

Yes, the wall was cut, but transferring the mover from the old van was part of the deal, so no extra cost to us.

 

Manufacturers and their designers need to hold meetings with the suppliers to ensure that the new design will work for everyone.

[JCloughie]

The main issue is with the length of cable the mover manufacturers supply that connects from the battery to the isolator and then to the control unit(s). If the battery is in the middle of the floor then the cable run wont be long enough to allow the isolator to be suitably positioned or to hide the control units

Having recently fitted two movers they both had loads of wire over which had to be routed a long way round to use it up as the instructions state 'do not shorten'. I think that this is to have both motors fed with equal voltage so the van will run straight.

 

I would suggest one of these fitted conveniently,

 

http://www. maplin. co. uk/c/components/switches/key-switches

 

Together with a 100 amp relay fitted in or near to the battery box.

 

John

Edited August 30, 2014 by JCloughie

[Scaramanga]

Having recently fitted two movers they both had loads of wire over which had to be routed a long way round to use it up as the instructions state 'do not shorten'. I think that this is to have both motors fed with equal voltage so the van will run straight.

 

I would suggest one of these fitted conveniently,

 

http://www. maplin. co. uk/c/components/switches/key-switches

 

Together with a 100 amp relay fitted in or near to the battery box.

 

John

Theres a idea. Thank you.

 

Your suggestion was also bought up in a previous thread i found:

 

http://www. caravantalk. co. uk/community/topic/74839-powrtouch-evolution-isolator-switch/

 

BUT. ..

 

Im still insure whether there is still sufficient cable from the battery to the control box. I think its only a couple of feet Powrtouch provide. Although they do provide plenty of cables from the control box to the motors

Edited August 30, 2014 by Scaramanga

[Caravanmedicswindon]

So the battery is now located in the middle of the floor, similar to many motorhomes?

Another way around it is to fit a Kronings (comes with a 6 year parts & labour warranty) mover, these use a thin cable on a small switch which isolates the battery electronically, the small switch can be located anywhere & any distance form the battery & control box.

[xtrailman]

Having recently fitted two movers they both had loads of wire over which had to be routed a long way round to use it up as the instructions state 'do not shorten'. I think that this is to have both motors fed with equal voltage so the van will run straight.

 

I would suggest one of these fitted conveniently,

 

http://www. maplin. co. uk/c/components/switches/key-switches

 

Together with a 100 amp relay fitted in or near to the battery box.

 

John

Certainly not in the battery box, relays spark sometimes and batteries can give off explosive gases.

[JCloughie]

Certainly not in the battery box, relays spark sometimes and batteries can give off explosive gases.

Probably best. Though as charging voltages are kept low and chargers are 'intelligent'. Gassing is not the problem it was years ago. Side mounted battery boxes don't have ventilation as it is. I wonder if the floor slung ones do. Also, the relay would not be switched under load in the same way as the manual switch which are commonly mounted in battery boxes though the switch itself is under the bed at bunk.

 

Still no harm in being safe.

 

Perhaps it could be mounted on the outside of the box below the van which is sufficiently protected from the elements.

 

John

[matelodave]

I'm not sure what the problem is - all you need is a longer bit of wire if the stuff that PowrTouch supply isn't sufficient. If you are having the mover professionally fitted then it's up to the fitter to sort it out, if it's a DIY jobby then it's not hard to ask PowrTouch for a bit more or go down to Maplins or somewhere similar to get a sufficient length.

The slightly harder bit will be mounting the isolation switch but perhaps PowrTouch can supply a bracket to mount it in a locker or somewhere inside the van by the door.

It's not a disaster, just a bit different.

[xtrailman]

Having recently fitted two movers they both had loads of wire over which had to be routed a long way round to use it up as the instructions state 'do not shorten'. I think that this is to have both motors fed with equal voltage so the van will run straight.

 

I would suggest one of these fitted conveniently,

 

http://www. maplin. co. uk/c/components/switches/key-switches

 

Together with a 100 amp relay fitted in or near to the battery box.

 

John

Looking at the MAX ratings of some movers single axle go to 160 amp.

 

http://www. caravanmoversonline. co. uk/pages/SINGLE-compare-movers. html

 

 

Perhaps this would do the job.

 

http://www. ebay. ie/itm/12-VOLT-HEAVY-DUTY-SPLIT-CHARGING-RELAY-200-AMP-/140716871736?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item20c3611038

[JCloughie]

Looking at the MAX ratings of some movers single axle go to 160 amp.

 

http://www. caravanmoversonline. co. uk/pages/SINGLE-compare-movers. html

 

 

Perhaps this would do the job.

 

http://www. ebay. ie/itm/12-VOLT-HEAVY-DUTY-SPLIT-CHARGING-RELAY-200-AMP-/140716871736?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item20c3611038

Spot on. Someone else suggested 100 amps and I just went along without checking.

 

Don't think I would fancy an ugly mechanical switch on view as matelodave seems to suggest. It should also be accessible in case of emergency while moving.

 

John

[TonyJover]

Looking at the MAX ratings of some movers single axle go to 160 amp.

 

Perhaps this would do the job.

 

http://www. ebay. ie/itm/12-VOLT-HEAVY-DUTY-SPLIT-CHARGING-RELAY-200-AMP-/140716871736?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item20c3611038

I agree with the principle but those little Durite relays are not at all reliable at anything like their full rated current. Boaters use large relays for paralleling battery banks for split charging and have melted many a Durite relay when doing so.

 

Unfortunately the Albright preferred replacement is a fair bit more money. Right now I can only find a US link: http://www. electricmotorsport. com/ev-parts/contactors-relays/albright-12v-sw180-200a-cont. html

 

It may well be that for the relatively short time that a mover would draw full current that the cheaper Durite would suffice. I simply don't know. I'm just raising the issue as something you may not be aware of.

 

Cheers

Tony

 

Sorry, that was the wrong relay - it's only 150A. Here is the correct one from a UK supplier: http://www. thetoolboxshop. com/sw200-3-albright-single-acting-solenoid-contactor-12v-continuous-6646. html

[matelodave]

I'd use something like this in one of the lockers http://www. thetoolboxshop. com/0-605-11-275a-rated-at-48v-marine-battery-isolator-2323. html although one with a removable key would ensure that it doesn't get left switched on.

In my opinion putting relays or contactors and switches just adds complexity

[TonyJover]

I'd use something like this. ..

So would I and in fact that is pretty standard fitment for movers. However the subject of relays came up due to the remoteness of the battery from any external locker. Personally I'd just fit longer wires - it's hardly rocket science.

 

Tony

[xtrailman]

I agree with the principle but those little Durite relays are not at all reliable at anything like their full rated current. Boaters use large relays for paralleling battery banks for split charging and have melted many a Durite relay when doing so.

 

Unfortunately the Albright preferred replacement is a fair bit more money. Right now I can only find a US link: http://www. electricmotorsport. com/ev-parts/contactors-relays/albright-12v-sw180-200a-cont. html

 

It may well be that for the relatively short time that a mover would draw full current that the cheaper Durite would suffice. I simply don't know. I'm just raising the issue as something you may not be aware of.

 

Cheers

Tony

 

Sorry, that was the wrong relay - it's only 150A. Here is the correct one from a UK supplier: http://www. thetoolboxshop. com/sw200-3-albright-single-acting-solenoid-contactor-12v-continuous-6646. html

 

 

A mover takes no where near the max current normally, I believe the highest seen on the link was up to 160 amp, so I would expect a 200 amp rated relay to be adequate.

 

I have no experience with Durite, but choice does appear limited, given the price I know which one I would use.

If it fails its not difficult to short it out.