Truma Ultrastore Boiler Issue

[Steamdrivenandy]

We pitched up here on Malvern CC site yesterday and all looked fine 'til I went to turn on the boiler. I realised that the rocker switch was already switched 'on' and that meant the boiler was probably heating for at least a day at home with no water in it.

 

I let it run for an hour or so and tried the hot water - cold as, well cold.

 

So I switched it onto gas and happily it's warmed up.

 

Unhappily I've left the Truma operating instructions at home, so I don't know what might have tripped or burnt out and what to do about it. The trip marked 'boiler' on the PSU board looks fine as does a fuse marked 'boiler' in the fusebox.

 

So can anybody tell me what damage we might've done and how we can repair?

[gumdrop]

http://dealer. truma. com/_anweisungen/Truma-Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/70_000/70000_29300. pdf

[gravon42]

Switch it off, wait about ten minutes, switch back on, and it should work. There is a thermal cutout which

has to be reset.

[Brecon]

Switch it off, drain the hot water from the tank and refill with cold, wait 10 minutes and switch on again.

If you don't drain the hot water, the thermal switch will not reset.

[suandjas]

is there a fuse under the rocker switch check that you may have blown that

[Steamdrivenandy]

SUCCESS!

I turned off the gas to the Truma yesterday morning and by early evening the water was cold. I then switched the electricity supply 'on' and after an hour I tested the water. Lovely and warm, just right for the washing up!

Thank you everybody for the help and advice, you are a great bunch of people.

[js10]

Hi I had the same problem in my last caravan sprite challenger 480 the non return valve was faulty and water was draining back to aquaroll the boiler would then cut out due to overheating but after refilling it would reset itself I fitted a new type of non return valve problem solved,

Rgds John

[Snapper2]

Hi I had the same problem in my last caravan sprite challenger 480 the non return valve was faulty and water was draining back to aquaroll the boiler would then cut out due to overheating but after refilling it would reset itself I fitted a new type of non return valve problem solved,

Rgds John

I appear to have this drain back problem and have suspected the non return valve, but haven't a clue what a non return valve looks like or where to look for it. I have an older Compass Omega.

 

Any help or advice be welcomed

 

john

[Jaydug]

Sometimes the non-return valve is built into the pump housing but if so, the easiest solution is to cut the plastic pipe from the water intake and fit a separate valve. Or you may find one already there which just needs replacing. You'll find several types on ebay - all very cheap.

http://www. ebay. co. uk/sch/i. html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601. m570. l1313. TR0. TRC0. H0. XCaravan+non-return+valve&_nkw=Caravan+non-return+valve&_sacat=0

[TonyJover]

I don't understand how these systems are plumbed. If the water is draining back why doesn't that reduce the system pressure and switch the pump back on?

[Steamdrivenandy]

I don't understand how these systems are plumbed. If the water is draining back why doesn't that reduce the system pressure and switch the pump back on?

You've got a point there Tony, any reduction in water pressure should switch the pump on, that's how the system is topped up in daily use. If water runs back then the pressure must drop and the pump would operate. Maybe the pump just operates all the time?

[WispMan]

I don't understand how these systems are plumbed. If the water is draining back why doesn't that reduce the system pressure and switch the pump back on?

It does intermittently - maybe every 20 mins for 5 secs.

[Snapper2]

You've got a point there Tony, any reduction in water pressure should switch the pump on, that's how the system is topped up in daily use. If water runs back then the pressure must drop and the pump would operate. Maybe the pump just operates all the time?

 

Sometimes the non-return valve is built into the pump housing but if so, the easiest solution is to cut the plastic pipe from the water intake and fit a separate valve. Or you may find one already there which just needs replacing. You'll find several types on ebay - all very cheap.

http://www. ebay. co. uk/sch/i. html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601. m570. l1313. TR0. TRC0. H0. XCaravan+non-return+valve&_nkw=Caravan+non-return+valve&_sacat=0

Thanks Jaydug, I will investigate and deal with it.

 

SDA, That is what I would have expected. situation is that when the tap is opened, there is a lot of spitting and spluttering before the water eventually comes through, we have not heard the pump cutting in when the tap is not in use, and generally the hot system gives hot water - eventually, over night it seems to take several minutes, as if we were completely recharging the system before getting water through, hence te return valve query.

 

John

Edited September 13, 2014 by Snapper2

[Steamdrivenandy]

John, it sounds like you may be misunderstanding how the system works.

 

When you connect the water supply to the van the pump has to fill the empty pipes with water AND the boiler, which holds around 10 litres. That's why you're advised to open the tap furthest from the water inlet so the water can push the air out and populate the pipework. Before filling the pipes however it has to fill the boiler and that usually takes a couple of minutes. Once the water comes through to the tap there'll be some spluttering as the air and water mix settles down to be just water.

 

Overnight, or indeed over any extended period the hot water in the pipes will chill as they're not insulated and are of quite small diameter. This means that when you turn the hot tap on after a period of non-use you are usually going to have to wait for new hot water to come from the boiler. In our relatively small van that can take a noticeable period of time.

 

Provided you keep the boiler switched on it will keep the 10 litres inside its casing at the required temperature until such time as you open a tap to use it. When that happens hot water disappears off to your tap and the pump turns on to push cold water in at the bottom of the boiler and the water heater starts up to bring the contents all up to the required temperature.

 

Once you have started using the water on a site there should be very little spluttering because all the air would have been expelled initially. If there's a leak then you'd hear the pump constantly running to replace any water that has escaped.

[Paul_B]

The none return valve is blue and fits just before the drain down valve.

There is also a red elbow valve at the top of the boiler that sometimes needs replacing.

If I had a internet connection I'd post a picture.

 

If you do a search I've put some pictures on previous posts about the drawing air problem.

 

Another problem could be the pipe on the pump, are all the clips tight, is the rubber oring ok, a smear of olive oil sometimes helps.

[Paul_B]

I don't understand how these systems are plumbed. If the water is draining back why doesn't that reduce the system pressure and switch the pump back on?

The pump is turned on by a micro switch in the tap.

[Snapper2]

John, it sounds like you may be misunderstanding how the system works.

 

When you connect the water supply to the van the pump has to fill the empty pipes with water AND the boiler, which holds around 10 litres. That's why you're advised to open the tap furthest from the water inlet so the water can push the air out and populate the pipework. Before filling the pipes however it has to fill the boiler and that usually takes a couple of minutes. Once the water comes through to the tap there'll be some spluttering as the air and water mix settles down to be just water.

 

Overnight, or indeed over any extended period the hot water in the pipes will chill as they're not insulated and are of quite small diameter. This means that when you turn the hot tap on after a period of non-use you are usually going to have to wait for new hot water to come from the boiler. In our relatively small van that can take a noticeable period of time.

 

Provided you keep the boiler switched on it will keep the 10 litres inside its casing at the required temperature until such time as you open a tap to use it. When that happens hot water disappears off to your tap and the pump turns on to push cold water in at the bottom of the boiler and the water heater starts up to bring the contents all up to the required temperature.

 

Once you have started using the water on a site there should be very little spluttering because all the air would have been expelled initially. If there's a leak then you'd hear the pump constantly running to replace any water that has escaped.

Thanks SDA, I do understand the sequence you describe. I expect to charge the system as described on arrival on site as part of the setup. I also get that there is a delay in the hot water comming through to the tap (once the tank is hot) the cold comming through first is fine, it cools the eventual hot to allow the washing up to be done, so not wasted. The problem is, that when the tap is opened, if it has been standing for an hour or so or overnight there is nothing for a while then spluttering and spitting and then warm and hot. I anticipate that the water in the pipe(s) will cool, but do not expect it to disappear. I haven't heard the pump running except when water is being drawn at the tap.

 

We have been caravanners since the 1980s, and this is problem new to us. hence the query. Thanks guys for your patience it is greatly appreciated.

 

The none return valve is blue and fits just before the drain down valve.

There is also a red elbow valve at the top of the boiler that sometimes needs replacing.

If I had a internet connection I'd post a picture.

 

If you do a search I've put some pictures on previous posts about the drawing air problem.

 

Another problem could be the pipe on the pump, are all the clips tight, is the rubber oring ok, a smear of olive oil sometimes helps.

Thanks Paul, I can investigate in the next few days after we return home. I use the pump which is plugged in to the side of the caravan, but although on previous vans (as on this van) the fit doesn't seem tight, we have not previously had this experience. I will take a look at your previous posts for illustrations.

[Paul_B]

I

I've found one picture in the water section under water pump running constantly, it shows a one way valve repair kit.

The blue valve can be found on the truma website.

I would check the pump first, could someone turn a tap on while you watch the pipe for leaks

[Snapper2]

I

I've found one picture in the water section under water pump running constantly, it shows a one way valve repair kit.

The blue valve can be found on the truma website.

I would check the pump first, could someone turn a tap on while you watch the pipe for leaks

SWMBO will be pressed into service to assist as soon as we get home.

Great Help, many thanks.

[TonyJover]

The pump is turned on by a micro switch in the tap.

Ahhh. .. gotcha. Ta

[zen]

If the pump is switched on by a micro switch at the tap why does it run when the pressure drops. As in post #12.

I think earlier systems worked with the micro-switch.

[DeeTee]

If the pump is switched on by a micro switch at the tap why does it run when the pressure drops. As in post #12.

I think earlier systems worked with the micro-switch.

My earlier caravans had micro switch actuated taps. I don't recall a pressure vessel nor pressure switch in those systems but I think that they had internal pumps.

[TonyJover]

If the pump is switched on by a micro switch at the tap why does it run when the pressure drops. As in post #12.

I think earlier systems worked with the micro-switch.

Indeed, as explained in #16, this is an older system without an automatic pressure switch.

 

Tony