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On Board Charger


Akerr1981
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Please help I have a bailey senator wyoming just arrived at our holiday park and have set up I plugged in the mains and the charger trip switch keeps tripping can I check anything or is my charger done ??

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On my senator the charger mccb also powers other things, could it be something else powered off the same switch? Such as the water heater? If it is the same as our senator you could turn off the isolator for the hot water and see if stops tripping just to see which item is causing the fault. Our 240v lights are also off the same mccb.

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I think the charger MCB also protects other devices and it will say above the MCB. Off to bed now so hope you are able to sort it out.

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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Unfortunately you don't mention what year or series you Wyoming is.

 

The Bailey electrical drawing are at best very poor, that said it seems that the charger supply is shared with the mains lights in the front area above the seating. It is however most likely the power supply has failed.

 

To prove the power supply/charger unit, disconnect the ehu, take the front cover off the fusebox you will see the charging unit (a metal box) in the top of the fusebox, you will see a mains lead plugged into it, pull the plug out, temporarily refit the front of the fusebox, reconnect ehu. If the breaker now doesn't trip the the charger unit is faulty. Do yourself a favour and order a new Amperor unit, better design than the Bailey, cheaper and works well. Theres a thread on here "Camping Forum"phpBB3/viewtopic. php?f=37&t=12 fitting such a unit to a Wyoming

Edited by nme2no1
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Yes I would fit the replacement as suggested in the link, assuming the charger is faulty.

 

my 2004 senator came with the charger fitted externally to start with, even so I replaced the charger onto 10mm packers to allow airflow around all the box, they do run hot.

 

IMO the only reason bailey fit them inside the PDU is to allow a modular installation, a cost saving really. And is a very very poor idea.

 

My Senator was still on the original charger 7 years later when I sold it.

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Check the battery it could be duff, dry or a cell problem. Maybe this is causing it to trip.

Paul B

. .......Mondeo Estate & Elddis Avanté 505 (Tobago)

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I had this happen to my 2006 Senator, it was the charger that was fried.

 

Got a universal charger from a dealer and fitted it. As it was bigger it fitted external to the original electrical box, and had to cut off the original kettle plug and splice in a household junction box, and used some electrical connectors to join the wires from the new charger to the electrical box.

 

Quite quick and easy.

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A duff battery, empty cell, short on the 12v non of them would cause the MCB to trip.

 

It could though make the charger work hard enough to destroy it, which in turn could trip the CB.

At any rate checking the charger output current after fitting a new charger would be sensible.

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OP never has come back online since posting his problem.

 

Let us wait for him to come back online, read the suggestions and let us know the result.

 

To other newbies reading this, do come back and let us know how you got on - we are dying to know!

 

And our members feel so proud when it is sorted and they were able to help :)

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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Well if he does come back here's where I stuck my amperor. My guess is an overpriced mobile engineer has been out with an overpriced bca charger! Holidaymaker in trouble = £ !

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It could though make the charger work hard enough to destroy it, which in turn could trip the CB.

At any rate checking the charger output current after fitting a new charger would be sensible.

Absolutely spot on :)

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It could though make the charger work hard enough to destroy it, which in turn could trip the CB.

At any rate checking the charger output current after fitting a new charger would be sensible.

In my experience, power supplies such as these (switch mode) current limit so they won't self destruct. If you look on the amperor website at the spec it actually mention it's current limited and short circuit proof, current limiting is essential in this sort of environment, particularly if you had a very flat battery, it would limit the current to the 25 amps and then the voltage would rise steadily. Enables rapid charging without destroying anything.

 

It would be a good idea to check or have checked the battery too as you suggest.

Edited by nme2no1
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The advice is falling on deaf ears as the OP has not returned since posting his problem.

One can only assume he is fixed and all is sorted.

But thanks to all who contributed - just wish we all had some feedback from the OP.

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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Indeed, still at least it's here for future reference.

 

Maybe the op is off the net whilst away, struggling with power etc and just maybe he'll be when he returns home to update us which would be appreciated

 

In general terms, this seems to happen so often and it is quite rude, people take the time and trouble to research and advise, the very least an op could do is say thank you and an update of eventual outcome would be useful to others in the future.

Edited by nme2no1
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well at least all your good advice has been useful to me anyway.

 

I think our on-board charger has failed too. Luckily I found out the night before we went away to Holland last week so I took our solar panels with us and used them to keep the battery topped up. It worked a treat and the EHU kept the fridge, water heater etc going so all was ok.

 

Also, the car has been charging the battery too because when we arrived in Holland the voltage was up to 12. 8.

 

This all started when I was using my Ring 12V tyre inflator - which would not work. I realised this was because the battery had no charge - it was down to 12. 1 and had been on EHU for at least 24 hours. I had to get the foot pump out !!! Just a bit of a panic the night before we set off !!! ;)

 

So does all this point to the charger being duff or is there just another fuse that needs to be checked first before I go ahead and buy a new charger (The Amperor 25 amp 3 stage one mentioned above looks like the business) ?

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited by Shirl250

2007 Bailey Series 5 Senator Arizona (4 berth, rear bathroom, side dinette) towed by a 57 Kia Sorento XS Auto with Kumho KL17 tyres, Reich Mover, Kampa Rally 390, Caravan Tyres : GT Radial Maxmiler CX 185/80 R14 102R.

 

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Well at least all your good advice has been useful to me anyway.

 

I think our on-board charger has failed too. Luckily I found out the night before we went away to Holland last week so I took our solar panels with us and used them to keep the battery topped up. It worked a treat and the EHU kept the fridge, water heater etc going so all was ok.

 

Also, the car has been charging the battery too because when we arrived in Holland the voltage was up to 12. 8.

 

This all started when I was using my Ring 12V tyre inflator - which would not work. I realised this was because the battery had no charge - it was down to 12. 1 and had been on EHU for at least 24 hours. I had to get the foot pump out !!! Just a bit of a panic the night before we set off !!! ;)

 

So does all this point to the charger being duff or is there just another fuse that needs to be checked first before I go ahead and buy a new charger (The Amperor 25 amp 3 stage one mentioned above looks like the business) ?

 

Thanks in advance.

Disconnect from ehu, take the front off the fuse box and the charger sits in the top and can be simply pulled out. On mine there was no mistaking the burned smell, I did take the top off to repair it but it was such a poor design I decided to replace it with the Amperor unit which is far superior and at an excellent price.

 

On your old charger you will have a mains input cable ( like a kettle lead) and 12v positive and negative. Installing the amperor us simple, I mounted min on the outside of the fuse box under the seat, put the 12v and mains wires straight through the back of the fuse box and away it went.

 

If you want one fitting, book yourself into Clumber Park for a couple of days and I'll do it for you in exchange for a cuppa lol

Edited by nme2no1
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Disconnect from ehu, take the front off the fuse box and the charger sits in the top and can be simply pulled out. On mine there was no mistaking the burned smell, I did take the top off to repair it but it was such a poor design I decided to replace it with the Amperor unit which is far superior and at an excellent price.

 

On your old charger you will have a mains input cable ( like a kettle lead) and 12v positive and negative. Installing the amperor us simple, I mounted min on the outside of the fuse box under the seat, put the 12v and mains wires straight through the back of the fuse box and away it went.

 

Thanks that's just like in the diagram in the link above. My main problem is knowing whether the charger is actually kaput. But it sounds like there isn't another fuse anyway but I'll check the wiring out when I take the front off the fuse box. I don't want to spend £70 if I don't need to.

 

There is no smell of burning at all. .....

 

More info : I think the reason the battery was drained when I came to use my tyre inflator was due to the fact that I had the fridge on - as we were getting ready to fill it up the night before we left for Holland. If the charger wasn't charging the battery then the fridge will have drained what was in there. I'd plugged the caravan into the 240v the day before and switched on the fridge. The battery had not been used for two weeks before that so should have had been fully charged mainly from the car on the journey home two weeks before.

 

From Bailey manual : When not using Senator models always ensure the fridge control knob is turned to the 'off' position. Failure to do this will result in a flat battery due to 12v power drain from the fridge circuit relays.

Edited by Shirl250

2007 Bailey Series 5 Senator Arizona (4 berth, rear bathroom, side dinette) towed by a 57 Kia Sorento XS Auto with Kumho KL17 tyres, Reich Mover, Kampa Rally 390, Caravan Tyres : GT Radial Maxmiler CX 185/80 R14 102R.

 

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Just check the obvious things first like check that the kettle plug is pushed fully into the charger.

Brian

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Thanks that's just like in the diagram in the link above. My main problem is knowing whether the charger is actually kaput. But it sounds like there isn't another fuse anyway but I'll check the wiring out when I take the front off the fuse box. I don't want to spend £70 if I don't need to.

 

There is no smell of burning at all. .....

 

You could check the mains 6 amp CB, and that the kettle plug is fully home.

Then there's usually a 12v car like fuse to check, maybe marked up as charger or battery.

 

After that its down to voltage checks on the input and output of the charger itself.

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Thanks that's just like in the diagram in the link above. My main problem is knowing whether the charger is actually kaput. But it sounds like there isn't another fuse anyway but I'll check the wiring out when I take the front off the fuse box. I don't want to spend £70 if I don't need to.

 

There is no smell of burning at all. .....

 

More info : I think the reason the battery was drained when I came to use my tyre inflator was due to the fact that I had the fridge on - as we were getting ready to fill it up the night before we left for Holland. If the charger wasn't charging the battery then the fridge will have drained what was in there. I'd plugged the caravan into the 240v the day before and switched on the fridge. The battery had not been used for two weeks before that so should have had some charge.

Wrong theory, the fridge doesn't run off the 12v in the caravan, only from the car. It WILL drain the battery if the door is left open and 12v selected, the 12v is used for the light.

 

There will be a fuse between the charger and the battery, with checking, it's often an inline fuse I. e. Fitted into the cable that goes to the battery, it is worth a check.

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Just looked in the manual, there is a fuse on the 12v side and it's in the main fuse box, it's a 15 amp one so should be blue in colour. It should be marked up +12 or charger. The MCB for the charger should be a 6 amp one and all of the McD's in the on position, finally check that the kettle lead is firmly plugged in to the charger.

 

Make sure you unplu ehu whilst putting your fingers inside the fuse box.

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Wrong theory, the fridge doesn't run off the 12v in the caravan, only from the car. It WILL drain the battery if the door is left open and 12v selected, the 12v is used for the light.

 

There will be a fuse between the charger and the battery, with checking, it's often an inline fuse I. e. Fitted into the cable that goes to the battery, it is worth a check.

 

From Bailey manual : When not using Senator models always ensure the fridge control knob is turned to the 'off' position. Failure to do this will result in a flat battery due to 12v power drain from the fridge circuit relays.

Thanks nme2no1 I will double check the 15amp fuse in the fuse box. Maybe replace it anyway. Thanks for looking at the manual. I had a go but it wasn't clear. ..
Thanks everyone else too. I will check the kettle plug too. If I can't find anything then I'll bite the bullet and go for the new one. If it works then at least then we'll know the old one was a goner. If it doesn't then 'I'll be back' as Arnie would say. In which case I'll have to look at it as an 'upgrade' ! ;)
I'll keep you updated. Cheers.
Edited by Shirl250

2007 Bailey Series 5 Senator Arizona (4 berth, rear bathroom, side dinette) towed by a 57 Kia Sorento XS Auto with Kumho KL17 tyres, Reich Mover, Kampa Rally 390, Caravan Tyres : GT Radial Maxmiler CX 185/80 R14 102R.

 

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From Bailey manual : When not using Senator models always ensure the fridge control knob is turned to the 'off' position. Failure to do this will result in a flat battery due to 12v power drain from the fridge circuit relays.

 

The only drain is the light if you leave the door open AND 12v selected, even with the master switch in the off position which I find ridiculous. The rest of the fridge circuits are isolated by the master switch except the 12v feed from the car. Never at any time will the fridge run on 12v supplied by the caravan battery except for one unique situation, if the supply to the battery charging and fridge on the tug are fed through a single fuse before the relays, if that fuse blows the fridge will then take it's power from the caravan battery while ever it's connected to the tug and the engine running.

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The only drain is the light if you leave the door open AND 12v selected, even with the master switch in the off position which I find ridiculous. The rest of the fridge circuits are isolated by the master switch except the 12v feed from the car. Never at any time will the fridge run on 12v supplied by the caravan battery except for one unique situation, if the supply to the battery charging and fridge on the tug are fed through a single fuse before the relays, if that fuse blows the fridge will then take it's power from the caravan battery while ever it's connected to the tug and the engine running.

 

The manual makes it sound like the fridge circuit relays are powered by the battery. I had everything switched on including the fridge (on 240v with the door closed) and 240v plugged in assuming that the battery was being charged. If it wasn't due to the charger failing then surely the battery would have been drained by these fridge circuit relays . .... whatever they are !!! :)

 

Perhaps things have changed since the manual was written. ... ?

Edited by Shirl250

2007 Bailey Series 5 Senator Arizona (4 berth, rear bathroom, side dinette) towed by a 57 Kia Sorento XS Auto with Kumho KL17 tyres, Reich Mover, Kampa Rally 390, Caravan Tyres : GT Radial Maxmiler CX 185/80 R14 102R.

 

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