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Towel Rail


gary m
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To the rear panel of which type of caravan?

 

Also where will you get the power from and is it a 240V towel rail?

 

And I'll move the topic to the Electric section as it may get more useful exposure there.

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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photo-2.jpg

 

I put the spur under the bed,was about £40. Wasnt my idea,I copied someone elses on the forum.

Bailey Indiana S. 6 and Hyundai i800 auto

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Just done it on a Bailey Pegasus 624. Completely different unit to the one above though. I used a very lightweight brushed aluminium one. Firstly, to match the other metal fittings (robe hooks, door handle) and secondly because I wouldn't want to hang anything more substantial on a 3mm piece of ply.

 

Tony

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Just out of interest what was the wattage of the rail?

And what did you wire the spur up to?

The MCB's or a spare 3pin socket?

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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Can also attach to circles of wood you "no nail" to the bathroom wall so that you don't perforate the bathroom wall (credit to Wizzo for that one!). Will be doing ours this summer with lightweight one - spare box in MCB for ours I believe

Unless you've tried it, you simply won't understand. .....

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This is the rail I fitted:

http://m. ebay. co. uk/itm/181312759290?nav=SEARCH

 

It's 70W and comes with a 13A plug fitted with a 3A fuse. It weighs just a few ounces.

 

In the bed base just outside the washroom is a 13A socket. So I cut a hole next to the socket to fit a switched spur. On looking at it I decided that it would make more sense for the spur to be closest to the washroom so I moved the socket into the hole I'd just cut, and fitted the spur in the newly vacant space. Spur, back box, surround plus securing clips were all bought from Bailey in order to keep the installation looking 'factory fitted'. The power for the spur was then looped from the socket. The 3A fuse from the plug was fitted to the spur and the plug removed from the cable.

 

I fitted the towel rail on the bulkhead behind the bed - it fitted very neatly between the shower and the corner moulding. The top two fasteners were made with short (12mm) cavity fixings because that is a double-skinned bulkhead. I planned the height so that the lower fixings had a bit of 'meat' behind them allowing me to use 20mm screws.

 

A 7mm hole allowed the mains cable to pass through to beneath the bed. P-clips kept the cable tidy. A bit of chockblock inside a chockbox allowed me to extend the cable. All of the cable ends that went into the back of the socket or the spur were finished with bootlace ferrules for a secure and reliable job.

 

Lastly, the flex cables were cable-tied within the back boxes just in case they ever got pulled when placing something under the bed.

 

Tony

Can also attach to circles of wood you "no nail" to the bathroom wall so that you don't perforate the bathroom wall

I don't see the advantage. Either you make a small hole in the wall with a screw or you make a larger mess of the wall with a circle of wood glued on Edited by TonyJover
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I don't see the advantage. Either you make a small hole in the wall with a screw or you make a larger mess of the wall with a circle of wood glued on

 

Advantage is not making holes in your bathroom wall and no need to make a mess of anything if done properly.

 

This was Wizzo's installation I saved for when we do ours

http://smg. photobucket. com/user/beerbellybill999/media/Adria%20542DT/DSC00113. jpg. html?sort=3&o=7

 

I am sure yours is great Tony - just another idea that is all

Unless you've tried it, you simply won't understand. .....

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Perhaps I'm being thick here but I still don't see the advantage. You still see the securing screws on the towel rail so it hasn't avoided that. You have increased the diameter of the footprint on the wall, and you've pushed the rail further from the wall.

 

If you ever wanted to remove it you'd have a bigger mess than a few screw holes.

 

Hey, do it however you want, I'm not suggesting any particular method is better than any other - I just don't see what this method achieves.

 

Tony

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Perhaps I'm being thick here but I still don't see the advantage. You still see the securing screws on the towel rail so it hasn't avoided that. You have increased the diameter of the footprint on the wall, and you've pushed the rail further from the wall.

 

If you ever wanted to remove it you'd have a bigger mess than a few screw holes.

 

Hey, do it however you want, I'm not suggesting any particular method is better than any other - I just don't see what this method achieves.

 

Tony

 

Maybe I am over paranoid about drilling multiple holes though water resistant bathroom board (ours is a wet room) and obviously attaching discs does spread the load rather than relying on cavity fixings or thin ply to hold a screw

 

As you say more than one way to skin a cat

Unless you've tried it, you simply won't understand. .....

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(ours is a wet room)

Truly? Then you really must not, under any circumstances, fit an electric towel rail (or any other mains electric) unless it meets or exceeds IPX4 or better, IPX5.

 

Tony

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I had the truma towel rail and with a little bit of fiddling reused the screwholes which go into a batten at the top,slid a batten in the bottom of the wall inside the bed box. Took a spur off the underbed socket its only 40 watts iirc

Bailey Indiana S. 6 and Hyundai i800 auto

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Truly? Then you really must not, under any circumstances, fit an electric towel rail (or any other mains electric) unless it meets or exceeds IPX4 or better, IPX5.

 

Tony

Yep will be ipx4 one

Unless you've tried it, you simply won't understand. .....

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