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Lee E

Truma Combi Operation Query

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I'm guessing that yours is a new van as it has the CP plus panel?

 

We have the previous system Truma Combi 4E and we usually fill the tank by opening the bathroom hot top first (the furthest from the tank). When water runs freely from here we move to the kitchen top and do the same. Your tank must be filled, as stated by Tony above, because water is flowing.

 

We sometimes get a "heating" smell from the boiler area, but wouldn't describe it as a "burning" smell. If in doubt contact your dealer.

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If water was coming out of the hot taps with no spluttering then the tank must have been full because the taps are effectively fed by the tank.

 

The tank heater has a thermal cutout to protect the element if it's turned on with the tank empty. It's not a good idea to rely on it of course.

 

No idea about the burning smell though. I'd very carefully check the wiring to the tank. If you don't feel competent to do this then pay an engineer to do so - you wouldn't want a caravan fire.

 

Tony

This is a combi boiler therefore it can be run on heating only with no water in the system.

Hi there we are very new to caravanning and apologise if this question has been asked before (which I assume it must have!).

 

We have just taken delivery of a lunar quasar 524 and have tried to operate the truma combi boiler for the first time. We connected the water pump and water supply, bled the cold water first followed by the hot and obtained a good flow of water without sputtering. We set the hot water to boost (we have the truma CP plus Control Panel) using hooked up electricity supply. After a few minutes we became aware of A burning smell and were concerned that there was insufficient water in the boiler unit. We turned everything off and drained the boiler. Warm water did come out of the drainpipe suggesting that the boiler was heating the water but despite running both Bathroom and sink hot tap for some time there was no hot water from the tap.

 

Questions-

 

1) do you have to bleed the hot water taps first?

2) has anyone experienced the burning smell with the boiler could this just be that it is new?

3) is there a safety cut out which stops the boiler from operating in the event that there is no water in the boiler?

If this is the first time it has been run in anger it might well be the system heating up to full capacity after the first flash up.

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This is a combi boiler therefore it can be run on heating only with no water in the system.

Apropos to what? OP stated that he had bled the hot water, so surely that means the system is full of water, no?

 

If this is the first time it has been run in anger it might well be the system heating up to full capacity after the first flash up.

But surely not a 'burning' smell? Just a 'hot' smell, I would have thought?

Edited by TonyJover

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Apropos to what? OP stated that he had bled the hot water, so surely that means the system is full of water, no?

 

 

But surely not a 'burning' smell? Just a 'hot' smell, I would have thought?

Doesn't matter if there is water in the boiler or not the system will still provide heating it will not damage the boiler.

Depends on your definition, maybe hot to some is burning to others. There will be a smell while it warms up to full temperature which should clear after a short time.

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Thanks to all for your help and advice.

 

We are reassured now and think in reflection the 'burning' smell was probably more 'heating' smell and likely to be a first time usage due to being new.

 

Really appreciate the replies.

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Hi all. I purchased a 2014 Swift Challenger Sport 640 in August just before our main fortnight holidays. After a few days I got the E255H error code that others have reported and a reset rectifies it. I continued to get the code several times during the fortnight holiday period. I contacted my dealer who said he would make enquiries. I have heard nothing since apart from 'We need to get diagnostic equipment. ...'. I too got the electrical burning smell when the water heater was on. After being away this weekend (10-12th Oct) something strange happened. Apart from the fact the site I was on must have had a low power allowanc, my power kept tripping when using heater and kettle together or water heater and microwave. I did get en error triangle symbol but just reset the trip. I turned on the water heater to boost and had heating on. The heating stopped and boost symbol just kept flashing. I must have had this on for at least 3 hours and still no hot water and got cold water coming from hot tap. I turned water heater to 60o and same thing - no hot water. I had to change the water barrel as it was nearly empty. when I filled it again there was a slight whirring noise from the pump (not the noise of the pump going to fill the tank) so I thought nothing of it so went out for a walk. When I returned 30 mins later the noise was still going and there was a strong electrical burning smell so I turned off the pump. I turned the water heater to gas only for a while. I opened the hot tap then cold and both taps spluttered air and water. When this settles there was still no hot water only cold water from the hot tap so I turned off the water heater. 2 hours later I opened the hot tap and out came hot water. My question is why did the water heater not work? Later that night I got the E255H error code.

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Just taken delivery of a Coachman Vision, and despite the dealers instructions which were very precise and clear, and the instructions read repeatedly, it was difficult to get the heating to do what I wanted it to do, Having set temperatures and fan etc it took a long amount of time for heating to commence and to get it to maintain a average temperature, we were either rolling over in heat or freezing despite adjusting the temperature. The system only seemed to act positively when it was in gas only mode. I have not had much time to experiment as we had a busy weekend, but the operation is not as simple as the dealer and the instructions make out. I'll check the youtube clip as previously suggested.

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In cold weather its often easier if you warm the caravan using both gas and electric, then switch to electric once its warm. The other thing is that sometimes they put the control unit on a wardrobe and the fire in the bottom of the wardrobe, this confuses the sensor and makes it slow to react to the rooms temperature.

 

Fitting a remote sensor often cures the problem, clipping it to the gas sensor has been found to be the best place for it.

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We are currently away on the Isle of Wight. I had set the heating to start at 06:00 this morning, but nothing had happened. I had the E255H fault code. When I tried a test timed start I got the same fault code each time, but also E89H. When I read the fault code E89H it said "NO ERROR".

The heating and water works perfectly in all the manual modes, we just have no Timed mode.

 

David

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We are currently away on the Isle of Wight. I had set the heating to start at 06:00 this morning, but nothing had happened. I had the E255H fault code. When I tried a test timed start I got the same fault code each time, but also E89H. When I read the fault code E89H it said "NO ERROR".

The heating and water works perfectly in all the manual modes, we just have no Timed mode.

 

David

255 is the same fault as previously noted elsewhere on CT.

Possible the white cable connecting the boiler to the controller has to be removed to reset the system. . (cable type RJ11).

First switch everything off.

This is detailed recently where a CT member saw his dealer and the controller was opened up and the cable unclipped for 2mins then reconnected, alternatively the white cable can be seen entering the top of the boiler. Remove the cover and unplug the white cable, wait and reconnect.

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Thanks SuperJock, will have a go at that this morning.

 

David

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I have had a go at doing a reset as detailed earlier in this thread. I still get the E255H fault, even after trying the alternative connection point. The controller still operates all of the functions manually, it's just the timer start of the heating that gives the fault code when the start time is reached.

I will get the dealer to sort it out when the caravan has it's service in a couple of months.

 

David

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Since my last post, I have now gained control of the heating functions and I'm pleased with how the system works, However, the only niggle I have now is that the actual temperature reading on the control unit seems to be a lot lower than it should be. We we're advised when we took delivery of the van that the temp. should be set to around 28 degrees compared with 22 degrees in our house. As the heat loss in the van is greater? However after lots of tinkering with the temperature settings, we have found once the van is warm, 14 degrees is a comfortable setting on the display. I can't imagine though that this is a true reading as any less than 18 degrees is not comfortable to be sat around in your pyjamas!! Anyone experiencing the same? Apart from this I have to say what a fantastic van the Vision 565/4 is!!

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Sidewindersleeps, we agree with you the Vision 565/4 is a fantastic van. Great quality, look and secure tow.

 

David

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We find we never have to set the temperature above 18/19 degs, even in the winter, usually runs between 16/18 in the evening and down to 12/13 overnight. I think it's the confined space of the van that allows you to do this - in the house, where 22 is more like normal, there are so many colder spots and the thermostat's in the hall, nowhere near where we're sitting.

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Apart from the well documented problems already posted re the the Truma CP Plus, does anyone else other than me have a problem with the heat from the boiler transferring through the seating making it too warm when you are in bed ? Also, when most Caravanners are using Electric Hook ups, why have Truma designed a boiler/heating system that's prime energy source is gas ?

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Apart from the well documented problems already posted re the the Truma CP Plus, does anyone else other than me have a problem with the heat from the boiler transferring through the seating making it too warm when you are in bed ? Also, when most Caravanners are using Electric Hook ups, why have Truma designed a boiler/heating system that's prime energy source is gas ?

You have the same layout as we have and we usually sleep using the beds as singles. Hubby has the side where the boiler is, but it's under his feet so not so much of a problem, especially during spring/summer/autumn, when the heating's not on overnight - we set the timer for the heating/water to come on about half an hour before we get up and this seems to work ok. It is more noticeable in winter months though.

 

Re your query about gas being the primary source - we have very rarely needed to use the gas option - maybe to just speed up the hot water to use the shower, otherwise we have always used the electricity settings.

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Apart from the well documented problems already posted re the the Truma CP Plus, does anyone else other than me have a problem with the heat from the boiler transferring through the seating making it too warm when you are in bed ? Also, when most Caravanners are using Electric Hook ups, why have Truma designed a boiler/heating system that's prime energy source is gas ?

Most of the caravanners using electric hookup clearly don't camp with most of us who never use it!

Just because it's not your thing don't condem everyone else to your views, incidentally we find the system works very well, particularly on gas.

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Hi SKH, It wasn't my intention to condemn everyone else to my views. Far from it, each to their own I say. However, it's still true what I say that the Majority of Caravanners are on an electric hookup yet, according to the Truma Manual, the boiler's prime source is gas. I'm glad you like it anyway.

Edited by Beatnikjim

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Hi SKH, It wasn't my intention to condemn everyone else to my views. Far from it, each to their own I say. However, it's still true what I say that the Majority of Caravanners are on an electric hookup yet, according to the Truma Manual, the boiler's prime source is gas. I'm glad you like it anyway.

No problem, I think the answer to your point about gas being the primary source lies in the power available on sites. The electric element is 1. 8kw which draws about 8A. From memory, the gas boiler is rated at 6kw which would take 26A if it were electric. Most EHU points will supply 16A at best (many only 10A) so it would constantly be overloading the supply and that's before you add in the TV, lights etc.

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I have a truma 4e combi boiler fitted to my 2012 coachman vip 520/4 and recently I've been having issues with the hot water side.

I have been setting to dual fuel 8 amp and gas and after running a basin of water for the dishes,when using the shower the water is only just warm,if I switched it to gas only would it heat the water quicker.

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Ours is fitted with the newer CP+ control but the combi boiler itself seems to be the same. With hot water on and heating off (controllable separately with the CP+ but I think this equates to 'summer mode' with the previous control panel), Mix 1 & 2 fuel settings will use electricity at 900W or 1800W respectively but no gas. So it would be quicker to heat on gas alone than on a dual fuel setting in that case.

 

I think dual fuel only works on the 'winter mode' (or with the CP+, when both space heating and water heating are both on).

 

It's confusing.

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I think dual fuel only works on the 'winter mode' (or with the CP+, when both space heating and water heating are both on).

 

It's confusing.

Yes that's right. I tried last week to boost ours with dual fuel, but option not available in summer mode.

 

Glen.

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Thanks guys I'm going away on Monday with my caravan so I will try it on gas only and report back

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We are currently away on the Isle of Wight. I had set the heating to start at 06:00 this morning, but nothing had happened. I had the E255H fault code. When I tried a test timed start I got the same fault code each time, but also E89H. When I read the fault code E89H it said "NO ERROR".

The heating and water works perfectly in all the manual modes, we just have no Timed mode.

 

David

Hi,

I dont know how helpful this is after a year, but I had exactly the same problem with a new Bailey Pursuit bought 2 years ago. After repeated failed attempts by the Bailey dealer to resolve, I have found a workaround this year. After setting the timer, don't leave the manual setting in off mode. I set the space heating to manual 'on' but at a low temperature, say 5 degrees C. The controller stays active, without actually running the heating (unless it's bloomin cold!) I don't understand what's going on, but there are no errors when I do that.

 

Dave

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