Jump to content

Stripping Awning Rail & Re-Sealing


Recommended Posts

Got a quote to do both awning rails for my caravan, due to high damp readings and possible water ingress.

 

Got quote to take off both rails, strip them down, clean them, clean down caravan part, reseal and refit them.

 

Quote of £120 for both. .. is this good?


Got a quote to do both awning rails for my caravan, due to high damp readings and possible water ingress.

 

Got quote to take off both rails, strip them down, clean them, clean down caravan part, reseal and refit them.

 

Quote of £120 for both. .. is this good?

Actually got that wrong, its overseal

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that that is a fair price, there are a lot of screws, and if they break off then drilling out etc can be a real pain.

 

To ME it sounds a very fair price considering the labour involved

Link to comment
Share on other sites

firstly where are your high damp readings? if they are not all the way up the walls then it might not be the awning rails, what van is it? age?

 

phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually got that wrong, its overseal

Well in which case I think £120 for someone to run a caulking gun round the rails is a high price, and I would want to be 100% sure that the overseal would sort the problem

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its a 1999 model, yes its going up the walls,, mainly on the offside, following the awning rail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi

 

the thing is if its going UP the walls then surely it cant be the awning rials as it would be coming down the walls

 

phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No i've got a diagram of all the different points where te damp is, its higher readings at the top with the levels going down further down the van.

 

So does make sense & sort of does confirm a gut instinct I had when opening the caravan bathroom cupboard. So I got no reason to disbelieve that.

 

Just want to get it sorted asap, as there is no structural evidence of damp, walls are still solid when taping it, not soft spots, etc.

 

I know the stuff you seal with is expensive & rather get it done properly, buts its more the reassurance, but on reflection does seem pricey for what is in effect a scrub & rub down, then running a gun down it.

 

But if it sorts it out, £120 is nothing on a £3k van lol? His servicing costs were reasonable tho, so just hope there is no after event markup :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the rails are no being removed, cleaned and resealed it's a very good price as it will take most of a day to do ( depending on age of caravan). If it's just overseal it is £120 too much as it will have no benefit whatsoever (this type of repair is usually offered by someone who hasn't a clue what they are doing!).

For any additional information or advice please have a look on my website. .....

www. thecaravanmedic-swindon. co. uk

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DIY.

 

Its easy, ive done it myself on my older Bailey.

 

Use Soudall (so much easier than silkaflex) and smooth with a dampened finger.

 

This must be done 10c and dry for 24hrs.

 

you got link to the soudall product, unsure what looking for

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as CMS said, "oversealing" isn't repairing the problem, it may stop it temporary, but isn't curing it.

 

the rails need to be removed cleaned up and resealed correctly, though this may also be pointless if the water ingress has caused any structural damage to the timbers in the wall, if so, you wont be able to screw it back correctly!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took my rails off when rebuiding mine but obviously was replacing wood as the thing was rotten.

 

In caravan's i've had in the past have always been old and probably had a bit damp but nothing obvious plus with us being on a seasonal pitch and an awning flapping about for months on end I just always resealed over the rails with the caulking gun and Soudall but found Seamseal CV half the price and did a great job. Not got a link just now but google it.

 

I personally wouldn't pay £120 when you can do it yourself if your able. Removing rails etc is a good price but not just running round with a gun.

Compass Shadow 1988

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Soudal Fixall Classic

 

but obviously shop around. Best to wait for warm and dry weather. You can wipe off overspill with meths but do that the day after application otherwise you will wash it out of the seal.

Land Rover is now back towing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't bother with an over seal as you will be wasting your money .

Olympic caravan services.
Approved mobile workshop covering wrexham northwales shropshire and west cheshire.

mob 07827738671 land line 01978 710 943

www.olympiccaravanservices.com    enquiries@olympiccaravanservices.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Over seal's better than no seal! I think so anyway. If it was a new caravan it would be worth getting done properly but if it's an older one then just better to maintain it i'd say.

Compass Shadow 1988

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Over seal's better than no seal! I think so anyway. If it was a new caravan it would be worth getting done properly but if it's an older one then just better to maintain it i'd say.

I'm sorry Mechs over sealing is a total waste of time. ... the only thing it may do is to stop any excess moisture actually escaping from the rail.

For any additional information or advice please have a look on my website. .....

www. thecaravanmedic-swindon. co. uk

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The effort and tedium of getting silkiflex off the old rail and van before re sealing is not to be underestimated. I did two and it was a tiresome job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a Swift Corniche many years ago. It took me nearly 50 hours in total to carefully remove the existing rails. (These formed top corner joints so were possibly more affected by stresses) and were extremely difficult to ease off having horizontal and vertical sealant. Following their removal 5 to 8 hours per side hours removing all the existing sealant. The end product was a watertight seal which held up. I refitted carefully but still caused a couple of crazed areas along the lengths. ..but better than a leak.

Gobur Carousel 12/2 TD

Coachman Amara 380/2

Swift Challenger Hi Style 425 pushing a Ford Kuga AWD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as CMS said, "oversealing" isn't repairing the problem, it may stop it temporary, but isn't curing it.

 

the rails need to be removed cleaned up and resealed correctly, though this may also be pointless if the water ingress has caused any structural damage to the timbers in the wall, if so, you wont be able to screw it back correctly!

Thanks all for advice and comments.

 

But this is the crux of the issue. What lies beneath? Advice was to do it as a temp job, to allow any potential damp the chance to dry out properly, then see if this reduces the readings found during the service.

 

however, as the main issue is the offside awning rail, I have taken the plunge to get it off. Been quoted a straight off, clean it etc, then put back on properly at £100 per awning rail. However, with the caveat that he can get it back on. .... so its either going to cost me £100, or £100 plus ???? :-/

 

At least will get the reassurance that its been done properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

why would they not be able to get it back on, have you checked how much experience this guy has in doing this type of work and is it the same guy who first recommended an over seal.

Olympic caravan services.
Approved mobile workshop covering wrexham northwales shropshire and west cheshire.

mob 07827738671 land line 01978 710 943

www.olympiccaravanservices.com    enquiries@olympiccaravanservices.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awning rails will bend and buckle if you are too rough. I used sea fishing line and cheese wired the rail off cutting the sealant beneath the the rail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all for advice and comments.

 

But this is the crux of the issue. What lies beneath? Advice was to do it as a temp job, to allow any potential damp the chance to dry out properly, then see if this reduces the readings found during the service.

 

however, as the main issue is the offside awning rail, I have taken the plunge to get it off. Been quoted a straight off, clean it etc, then put back on properly at £100 per awning rail. However, with the caveat that he can get it back on. .... so its either going to cost me £100, or £100 plus ???? :-/

 

At least will get the reassurance that its been done properly.

The problem being, asfaik, is that the awning rails are shaped on a jig at the factory.

 

Shaping an awning rail from straight lengths will require a lot of skill and the right tools.

 

 

If its any help, I have oversealed my caravan. Its older and this makes it an economic choice.

 

It IS worth it and not that hard. My oversealing has been done in a very liberal way, but taking care to smooth it and be uniform.

 

There is no way in the world that I can get water ingress around any join, window, rooflight or other source now.

 

I know this is just an online forum and I could be anyone, but trust me it is easy and worth it if you have an older van. ..

 

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem being, asfaik, is that the awning rails are shaped on a jig at the factory.

 

Shaping an awning rail from straight lengths will require a lot of skill and the right tools.

 

 

If its any help, I have oversealed my caravan. Its older and this makes it an economic choice.

 

It IS worth it and not that hard. My oversealing has been done in a very liberal way, but taking care to smooth it and be uniform.

 

There is no way in the world that I can get water ingress around any join, window, rooflight or other source now.

 

I know this is just an online forum and I could be anyone, but trust me it is easy and worth it if you have an older van. ..

 

Good luck.

Thank you! I think it's worth it on an older van and have did it many a time.

Compass Shadow 1988

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers all, lots of differing advice. I took it for second opinion to someone who has been around a while, was recommended elsewhere, and is reasonably priced.

 

its the not knowing what's beneath the rail that's the problem. Should find out tomorrow, as hes coming to pick it up to take into the workshop. :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers all, lots of differing advice. I took it for second opinion to someone who has been around a while, was recommended elsewhere, and is reasonably priced.

 

its the not knowing what's beneath the rail that's the problem. Should find out tomorrow, as hes coming to pick it up to take into the workshop. :unsure:

Hope you get it sorted now .

Thank you! I think it's worth it on an older van and have did it many a time.

 

I find with older van it's an easy job to remove the rail as the old sealant becomes dry and crumbly and once the screws are out the rails will come of very easy .

If you use something like Sudal crystal high grab the rail can that are usually in two sections can be put back on the van by one person but always two pairs of hands are better .

Olympic caravan services.
Approved mobile workshop covering wrexham northwales shropshire and west cheshire.

mob 07827738671 land line 01978 710 943

www.olympiccaravanservices.com    enquiries@olympiccaravanservices.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...