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Freelander 2 Battery Problem


bigbilly
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I have a really annoying problem with a 2009 Freelander 2 which my main dealer can't resolve.

 

My battery loses power over a 4 to 12 day period until it is impossible to start.

 

I bought myself a cheap plug in voltmeter which I use in one of the 12V sockets in the car.

 

With the engine running the reading will be 14. 4V. Shortly after stopping the reading will never be above 12. 2V and this will gradually reduce to about 11. 8V which will still start the car. The reduction in voltage is worse the colder it is and there is never a problem during the Summer ! On Sunday there was a really heavy frost and when I checked the voltage it was 9. 8V and sure enough wouldn't start. This was only 3 days after a 50 mile trip.

Eventually got it started on a power pack and went for a 30 mile trip. Monday the voltage was 12. 2V and this morning 12. 0V.

 

The battery is about 2 years old and is the second replacement.

 

Any ideas.

 

Bill

 

 

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have you tested the drain on the battery when the car has "shut down" - ie in amps. Assuming the dealer would have done this.

 

try asking on www. freel2. com - the may be a specific known problem that is causing the drain.

 

have you got satnav. early cars had a problem with the satnav not properly shutting down - solved by a software update.

 

have you had this problem since you have owned it. if not, then could be the fuel pump continoulsy running after shut off and needs a new relay.

 

im sure there are plenty of other possible causes, but these above seem to occur frequently

Edited by discodunc
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Landrover forum has reports of a known fault: blue tooth not turning off and draining battery, can you disable the blue tooth option?

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At 12. 2 volts the battery is miles off being fully charged. The questions are:

can it ever get fully charged, if not is it because it is shot or the charging system is shot? The 14. 4 points at the car's system being healthy, but is a bit lower than I thought LR use as peak voltage. It is certainly enough in time to charge it up if indeed it can accept a good charge. .

The second basic question is something other than the battery itself draining it? This needs an ampmeter in the main feed from the battery to see if it is the car draining things.

As the first battery only lasted at the most three years then the second could well be on its way home if your driving/usage style has remained unchanged. Do you normally run long enough to keep the battery well charged or is it often low? That could seriously shorten battery life.

 

I leave my Disco3 with a CTEK charger coupled to the towing electrics as often I dont in winter do enough running to keep the battery fully charged, as I said very important in battery life.

Edited by JTQ
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Hi bill,

I wouldn't be hoping for much charge being thrown into the battery with a 50 ml trip. My motor peugeot 4007 has the same engine all but a few mods and I have lately found it to be down on cranking speed but the battery checks out ok by 2 shops. Halfords did a full cranking and charging test and they said it was ok apart from the battery could do with a charge and I was going to replace the battery because of the slow cranking speed ss it is now coming up 4 yr old thought it would be on its way out by now. the short trips to work knocks hell out of the battery 2ml each way. So I charge it every month or so. wit your voltage being so low i would be aiming for a full 24 hr charge and then re test the voltage as the alternator is not having enough time to regen the lost power after starting. If that doesn't show an improvement in the voltage then the battery must be shot regsrdless of age.

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I have a really annoying problem with a 2009 Freelander 2 which my main dealer can't resolve.

 

My battery loses power over a 4 to 12 day period until it is impossible to start.

 

I bought myself a cheap plug in voltmeter which I use in one of the 12V sockets in the car.

 

With the engine running the reading will be 14. 4V. Shortly after stopping the reading will never be above 12. 2V and this will gradually reduce to about 11. 8V which will still start the car. The reduction in voltage is worse the colder it is and there is never a problem during the Summer ! On Sunday there was a really heavy frost and when I checked the voltage it was 9. 8V and sure enough wouldn't start. This was only 3 days after a 50 mile trip.

Eventually got it started on a power pack and went for a 30 mile trip. Monday the voltage was 12. 2V and this morning 12. 0V.

 

The battery is about 2 years old and is the second replacement.

 

Any ideas.

 

Bill

 

 

Hi Bill

I think the simple answer is it the battery ! have you had the battery tested ?

 

But the long answer to the problem is you have not said how you use the freelander, If you use the car on a daily basis then

I think you need to look further into why the battery is faulting, but the way you describe it is not used on a daily basis and it is not getting a thorough charge, if you are leaving it in a "not used" state you need to put some form of charging on it.

 

But my two penny's worth is check the out the battery but view to put a new one on it and keep it in a charged state

 

Radiotwo

Steve - Land Cruiser Amazon Auto + Pageant Series 5 Champagne

The match between car and caravan is perfect in accordance with a mix of European standards. However, according to the British Towing Code the percentage (loaded caravan / kerbweight tow car) is 49%.

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I think it sounds like something is draining the battery so the Ammeter route is the one to follow to prove/disprove the battery drain theory.

 

Only if nothing is draining the battery can you consider it a battery problem.

Graham

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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At 12. 2 volts the battery is miles off being fully charged. The questions are:

can it ever get fully charged, if not is it because it is shot or the charging system is shot? The 14. 4 points at the car's system being healthy, but is a bit lower than I thought LR use as peak voltage. It is certainly enough in time to charge it up if indeed it can accept a good charge. .

The second basic question is something other than the battery itself draining it? This needs an ampmeter in the main feed from the battery to see if it is the car draining things.

As the first battery only lasted at the most three years then the second could well be on its way home if your driving/usage style has remained unchanged. Do you normally run long enough to keep the battery well charged or is it often low? That could seriously shorten battery life.

 

I leave my Disco3 with a CTEK charger coupled to the towing electrics as often I dont in winter do enough running to keep the battery fully charged, as I said very important in battery life.

 

How is this set up to work?
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Thanks very much for all the comments.

 

I have had 3 batteries i. e. 2 replacements plus the original. The current battery has been tested by ATS and

confirmed as OK.

 

I have followed all comments made on the freel2 forum and do not have Bluetooth or sat. nav.

I have had the earthstrap tested as I understood LR had a faulty batch that corroded and my dealer has had

the car for 48 hours and said that there is no abnormal drain on the battery.

 

I will admit that I only use it for towing so it can sit around for a few days without being used.

 

Bill

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WD,

Very simply, in my case I used a spare White 12S plug and wired it to a CTEK fly lead putting the positive to pin 4 the negative to pin 3. These on a car should be the permanent wired 12 volt connections, direct to the car battery.

http://www. ctekchargers. co. uk/ctek-stdcord. php

Just make sure you get the right lead for your CTEK charger; I cut off the 8mm lugs.

If you have the 13 pin connector then its pin 9 for positive and pin 13 for the earth/negative.

With my Disco in the garage nose in it is just so much more convenient to plug int the towing socket than get in the car open the bonnet catch, squeeze in up front to physically open the bonnet, remove the battery cover and close things all up again.

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I will admit that I only use it for towing so it can sit around for a few days without being used.

 

Bill

 

Then Thursday go to Lidls £14 in hand and buy the smart charger that comes on offer, and wire it up based on how described above. At £14 you can afford simply to chop off the clips and make a one purpose charger!

Well reportedly these chargers are coming on sale.

Edited by JTQ
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I have had a similar problem with my Mazda, and I'm still not sure the battery hasn't been damaged by being drained down to 11. 5 volts for a day.

 

My car has the smart charging which personally I don't care for, with my last car an Xtrail I never had any starting problems with exactly the same sort of usage.

 

My car defiantly wasn't putting enough volts out to replenish the battery, the first time it failed to start I jump stated it and did a 2. 5 hour trip, at times on the A1 I could see the voltage wasn't above 13 volts, on arrival at Newcastle the car was put straight into the garage.

 

The tech agreed that the charging voltage was low and said he re initialised the Istop system, after driving off from the garage I could see the charging volts were better showing over 14 volts.

However a couple of days later set of back home and again the volts could be down to 12. 1 volts at 70mph!

So I wasn't surprised a few days later to have the battery show low volts again, off to the local ford dealer who can still do warranty work for Mazda who promptly checked the battery and said it was good, but said book the car in to get it checked, so I jumped into the car at the dealers and it wouldn't start! He applied a power pack and it started straight away.

 

A week later they had it in, checked that the parasitic loss was ok, and said they couldn't find a fault?

Anyway I started to charge the battery using my lidl smart charger, and kept using it over the Christmas season with a view to phoning Mazda in the new year as I was thinking the special stop start battery was faulty, its volts never seem to stay at 12. 6 volts overnight.

 

Strange thing is since then I haven't used the charger hoping the car would fail again, so I could call the RAC and get a report from them to present to Mazda.

But since using the charger the alternator volts are constantly showing typically over 14 volts to a max of 14. 8 volts. So that's where I am at the moment.

 

So for the OP I would say check your parasitic loss, fully charge the battery and assuming the parasitic loss is normal then a good battery should hold charge over night with only a small volt drop.

 

Perhaps if you are in a breakdown service you could call them out and get them to test the current drain for you, there are videos on youtube showing how to do a diy check using a multimeter without disconnecting power to the car.

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Then Thursday go to Lidls £14 in hand and buy the smart charger that comes on offer, and wire it up based on how described above. At £14 you can afford simply to chop off the clips and make a one purpose charger!

Well reportedly these chargers are coming on sale.

Already got one of those as well as a CTEK but connecting this way seems ideal !

 

In all my years of motoring I have never owned a car where I have felt it necessary to check my battery on a daily basis !! There is no way that you could go away for a fortnight say and leave it at an airport carpark.

 

Bill

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In all my years of motoring I have never owned a car where I have felt it necessary to check my battery on a daily basis !! There is no way that you could go away for a fortnight say and leave it at an airport carpark.

 

Bill

Modern cars do seem to have very small batteries, weight efficiency reason and ever more electrical equipment. The multiple footwell, interior lights and see your way home lighting I know on the Disc3 can wreak havoc when a grandson keeps going in and out of the vehicle! Now carry jump leads but of course they have only been used helping others since I invested.

Its not altogether a new issue my wifes Golf in 2002 could drain its battery in a week. VW's customer support engineer said it was a freak issue depending on the actual entertainment system setting prior to switching off. Showed me the fuse, number 42 that needed pulling if parking again at an airport, and it worked. .

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My Discovery has a similar problem to the OP's Freelander. As I use it very infrequently I have fitted a simple battery isolated switch. I can leave it up to a month, and with the switch returned to the on position it always starts first time!

2019 Bailey Platinum (640) Phoenix from Chipping Sodbury caravans, towed by our  2017 my Discovery Sport!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had my battery checked by 2 shops as said earlier. battery OK "NOT" this morning after charging all weekend flat as a tart. So new battery bought varta £85 now I get to work on time. asked at the shop how come you tested battery and it came up OK and it keeps going flat ANSWER The machiine doesn't tell if a cell is down.

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On one of my many trips to my LR main dealer I was loaned a brand new Evoque with stop/start technology. When I stopped, at lights say, the engine would stop, as expected, but sometimes would start itself before I needed to pull away. When I queried this I was asked if I had the climate control on. When I answered yes I was told that the car had 'sensed' that there was insuffient power in the battery and the engine had started to charge it.

Surely cars should be designed with more electrical tolerances and it can't be that expensive to equip with a more powerful battery or offer it as an option.

Before retirement this problem would never have come to light as my car was never idle for more than a couple of days !

 

Bill

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Have our Freelander pluged into autologic or similar diagnostic equipment and get it tested for faults. Sounds like maybe one of the micro swtiches on a door lock, bonnet or tailgate is not working correctly. This will mean the car does not always think its 'locked' and close down the ECU, if the ECU remains powered then that will drain the battery. This was a big problems with the old 38A RR and now with newer models. Mind you on an 09 model if its the orginial battery that could also be the problem, its old and might need replacing as its no longer holding its charge, again get it tested.

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Have our Freelander pluged into autologic or similar diagnostic equipment and get it tested for faults. Sounds like maybe one of the micro swtiches on a door lock, bonnet or tailgate is not working correctly. This will mean the car does not always think its 'locked' and close down the ECU, if the ECU remains powered then that will drain the battery. This was a big problems with the old 38A RR and now with newer models. Mind you on an 09 model if its the orginial battery that could also be the problem, its old and might need replacing as its no longer holding its charge, again get it tested.

Thanks for that.

 

I'm on my third battery as the main dealer just changed them in desperation. I suppose the current battery about 2 years old now and the car warranty has expired. The problem does seem to get much worse the colder it is ! In Summer I can get away with 4-5 days without using it - in Winter more like 2-3 days.

 

Bill

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You can get the plug for the towing electrics from the Disco3 forum - I'm not sure whether you need to register first.

It's also possible (but fiddly) to make one up yourself, which is what I did.

 

http://www. disco3. co. uk/shop/index. php?act=viewProd&productId=45

 

Edit: Because I don't use the car much the park heating doesn't always work unless I regularly top up the battery.

Edited by onewheelonmywagon

Land Rover is now back towing.

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On one of my many trips to my LR main dealer I was loaned a brand new Evoque with stop/start technology. When I stopped, at lights say, the engine would stop, as expected, but sometimes would start itself before I needed to pull away. When I queried this I was asked if I had the climate control on. When I answered yes I was told that the car had 'sensed' that there was insuffient power in the battery and the engine had started to charge it.

Surely cars should be designed with more electrical tolerances and it can't be that expensive to equip with a more powerful battery or offer it as an option.

Before retirement this problem would never have come to light as my car was never idle for more than a couple of days !

 

Bill

 

Car manufacturers are very keen to exploit any means to save fuel. Car charging systems are now designed to only charge when there is a minimum impact on fuel - for example, when the car is rolling down hill or when braking, rather than charging all the time. As a result it takes a long run to replace the charge taken out when starting the car.

 

Edit: A bit more info HERE

Edited by onewheelonmywagon

Land Rover is now back towing.

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You say the volts drop to 12. 2 a short time after stopping, how short? A few min or perhaps an hour this would be a big drop in that time pointing to a duff battery, or a very big drain which would kill the battery in only a few hours.

 

5 day+ would point to a more normal battery drain. I suppose you could have had a smaller drain over a long period which has done for this battery (and the others)

These from Maplins are good for detecting current drain

OOps copy paste did not work. Go to Maplins web site and search N48CY, it plugs into a fuse so you can see what is happening. There are two sizes,for Mini and Max fuse sizes.

post-13194-0-28421600-1390482993_thumb.jpg

Chris in Warwickshire, Elddis Odyssey 482 (2008), Mitsubishi Outlander diesel, 2017

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