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Floor Insulation


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I know this subject has been talked about before regarding cold feet syndrome and van insulation, but has anyone ever tried or found any kind of solution to this problem. I know we cant block the floor vents and draghts will be the norm in our vans, but does anyone know of a simple and cheap way to insulate the floor from the coldness it produces.


We have found that pipe insulater run down both sides and front of the seat by the floor stops the obvious draughts when we camp and are removed in storage but if you put your hand on the floor under the carpet, its cold enough to freeze water these days. Do our vans have underfloor insulation or is there a way to do this ourselves.


I know there are heater carpets out there, but I am a wild camper and looking for solutions that dont need EHU. Ive thought about reflective mats like what we use on the windscrens placed under the carpet, I have even contemplated underfelt and thicker capets but nothing seems to make absolute sence. Ive even thought about a fan that circulates the air in the van to stop all the hot air getting trapped at the top of the van which we can feel when we stand up but that would flatten th battery quickly.


Anyone out there with any ideas, this cold feet syndrome is driving mission control nuts and me loopy.

Edited by sampvt

Im back to motorhoming with a scooter on the back again.

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I don't think there is any way round it without EHU

The more I learn the more I know,the more I know the more I forget,the more I forget the less I know :blink:

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Many, many decades ago we had a Silverline Caravan with sold wood floors. I insulated this with the following system.

Inside I used closed cell foam camping mats to line the under bed and cupboards, line the wheel arches and even under the carpets.

Diverters to ventilation holes in the floor to stop drafts but no close them off. We found that this had a major effect.

The next year under the van we put exterior grade polystyrene against the floor.

Made a huge difference as well and we used it all winter after that.


Caravan was rubbish though. They assembled it with half the fittings in the roof having No sealant at all. Rotted whilst we looked at it. Preparing to take dealer to court but they went bust. expensive lesson.

Kia KX 3 auto / Bailey Alicanto Grande Estoril and Swift Challenger 570 (2010 model Not towed - used as a static)

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Most new caravan companies now seal the bottom of caravans with a membrane . IMO a good underlay and fitted carpet make a large difference but as said with roof vents that are not completely shut and only plastic windows its a up hill struggle to get it warm as the caravans have never really been built for winter use .


The US just fit LPG heaters that are as powerful as we use in our houses (1000 btu per ft length) one solution perhaps but they don't pay what we pay for it .





Edited by CommanderDave

Jeep Commander 3. 0 V6 CRD

Isuzu D- Max Utah Auto

Elddis Crusader Storm 2000 Kgs, Unipart Royal Atlas Mover .


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I wear sheepskin slippers, when we are out at the beginning and end of the year,

then there are no carpets or mats to ruck up, feet are toasty :D

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The floor material of all modern caravans is adequately insulated, and it makes no difference whether it's grade 2 or 3 as the floor material didn't change for that particular issue. Adding any kind of additional insulation to the floor material is a waste of time as you already have a optimal level of insulation. What you feel around your feet is cold air, which enters the van through the massive ventilation holes. Now before all the "Elfs" start about safety, it is not a safety issue at all. Gas drop holes look nothing like air vents - gas drop holes must not be blocked, and are usually more difficult to access anyway. Close off most of the floor vents with some old socks. Wait for the van to warm up which may take a good while initially. Now feel the difference. The other places you get a lot of coldness from are refridgerator vents - the louvered rectangular vents in the caravan wall provide air flow over the heat exchanger - best leave them alone but fit winter covers, you will see gaps in the fridge cabinet (which should be room sealed to prevent the cold air and fumes entering the living area - you can stuff these with foam strip or similar, and wheel arches which are often not insulated at all - if you can see the black plastic, they are not insulated - you can insulate these with insulation material stuck in place with gaffer tape. Do these things and you will feel the difference.

Edited by Ian Hastings


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