Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Lefthand Down

Time Lapse And Astral Photography

Recommended Posts

brilliant !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Scroll down to see other videos he has made. .....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone look here each day?

 

I keep the link as a favourite and have a quick look to see what's new.

 

http://apod. nasa. gov/apod/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just looking at starting with time lapse and some very good ideas thanks. Not sure what software you are using I am looking at SM Tether for Nikon D7000 and Pentax Remote Assistance 3 for the K10D but as yet not tried to put the frames together as a movie. I was considering Pictures to EXE or PhotoStage Slideshow Producer.

 

Limit would seem laptop battery the D-SLR lasts for ages but Laptop is rather limited. As to quality that's another question in the main I use RAW but for time lapse is this really required? I would think 2M and one star Jpeg is enough.

 

Local camera club the AV is quite common but time lapse seems not to be used so more info please.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone look here each day?

 

I keep the link as a favourite and have a quick look to see what's new.

 

http://apod. nasa. gov/apod/

I am also an APOD fan. Go to the bottom of any page, click on Archive and look back through 100's of APOD's.

 

P. S. Astronomy Picture Of the Day

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just looking at starting with time lapse and some very good ideas thanks. Not sure what software you are using I am looking at SM Tether for Nikon D7000 and Pentax Remote Assistance 3 for the K10D but as yet not tried to put the frames together as a movie.

 

Local camera club the AV is quite common but time lapse seems not to be used so more info please.

 

I’ve recently started playing with time lapse. I use a little gadget (http://www. amazon. co. uk/dp/B00345XKV4 - designed for Canon, Nikon & Olympus) to actually take the shots so don’t need a laptop and the sheer number of photos means that I tend to shoot small, fine jpegs. I haven’t really researched into movie-stitching software because I already had Adobe Premiere Elements and that seems to work fine at least for now. Here’re some of the lessons I’ve learned so far – hope they help:

 

  • Shot delay. Too long between shots makes for quite a jerky video e. g. one shot per minute. I tend to shoot every two seconds.
  • Hate the maths! With each two second shot being one frame in a video rendered at 25 frames per second:

1 second of footage = 50 seconds of real time or

1 hour real time = 72 seconds of video footage

  • NB About an hour would nicely capture the lead up to and follow on from a sunrise or sunset, which would end up being about a minute or so of video footage, which makes for a nice video length. Less than this is too quick, too much more becomes a little boring, so 2 seconds per shot and 1 shot per frame rendered at 25fps works quite well, imho.
  • Blurry people. Shots taken with a fast shutter of moving people look a bit robotic in the resulting video. Slightly blurry people (e. g. 1/20 sec) actually make for a more aesthetically pleasing video.
  • Auto exposure / focus flicker. If you leave the camera to automatically control the exposure (e. g. Aperture Priority) then on the plus side, you get well exposed images irrespective of the light level but on the negative, when you stich the frames together, the slight changes in exposure between shots gives rise to a distracting flicker in the resulting video. The same goes for auto focus. Better to manually set the focus, exposure & white balance and accept that during a sunrise, for example, the first set of images will likely be underexposed and the final set will likely be overexposed. In my opinion, this is preferable to a flicker being present throughout the video.
  • HDR & Photomatix. Not tried this yet but you can exposure bracket each and every shot (e. g. two stops) and use Photomatix to batch process the whole lot then render the video with the resultant HDR images. This could help with the under/over exposed shots above.
  • Tripod. Don’t let the tripod move at any point during the sequence – and that means making sure the ball-head is tight! Ooops!
  • Cold and boring. If you’ve setup for a sunrise or a sunset and the camera is off doing its thing. ..you’ll soon get cold and bored! Bring some warm clothing, some fresh tea/coffee and something to do! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice all seems to make sense. I do wonder if just repeatedly pressing a remote would do same job. Do I really need a PC to trigger camera?

 

I have also not tried Photomatix it is suppose to be the best however most HDR are really down to local tone mapping for the effect rather than true HDR with CS5 local tone mapping was included with Photoshop but not with CS4. I was taught with CS4 and compared CS4 and Picturenaut rather surprised at the results no overall winner. I would do many sets with both and around 50/50 which program worked best. Not repeated with CS5 but found masks and apply command which is often faster and better than full HDR program. Again 50/50 on results but HDR takes so long.

 

The idea of processing 200 RAW files is rather daunting even with RAW 6. 5 where you can block adjust all 200 files together with fill light and other corrections to get the same result as three jpeg pictures with HDR but it is size which becomes the problem I use FastStone Photo Resizer to batch change the size of pictures. Also use Hugin for panorama pictures.

 

I do photography on the cheap. OK camera were expensive one Christmas present from my wife the other given to me by my dad but rest it was very much watch the pennies and if I could have used any other software other than Photoshop CS4/CS5 when doing my "A" level photography I would not have got it but no option. Student license of course.

 

I have elements on PC and was interested to see you use it. Mine it seems version 6 although it says premier elements 4 not sure why as PC inherited on my fathers death. Seem to remember something 7 which schools used similar to Photoshop which would stitch frames together to make a mpeg movie. So many borrowed, cracked, or bundled programs I have used plus of course the free ones like Gimp and RawTherapee even before I found RawTherapee used UFraw remembering what each did is hard.

 

PicturestoEXE 7 is only a trial but really temped to buy really good program. But also use PhotoStage Slideshow Producer which was free.

 

The problem is there are so many out there and unless pointed in right direction you just will never find them. Also each one is slightly different so I tend to stick with CS5 even if not the best I know how it works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Technically there’s nothing stopping you manually taking the shots but consider that an hour and a half taking one shot every two seconds is 2,700 shots - surely this would be mind-numbing?! With a gadget like the Hahnel you don’t need a PC, just connect the timer to the camera or use the wireless adapter and control everything remotely.

 

I don’t think you can too far wrong with Adobe. I can’t afford the Creative Suites so tend to use Lightroom for 90 - 95% of the photography stuff I do, then use Photoshop Elements for occasional pixel-level editing and Premiere Elements for everything video. Keeps it simple, they all interface well and you can usually get a good deal if you keep an eye out – I think Lightroom cost me £45 on a deal through Amazon, I got Photoshop Elements 12 for £20 via Adobe themselves and I think Premiere for a little more, maybe £35. I bought Photomatix direct from their website at the full list price :blink:

 

I personally have seen nothing better than Photoshop Elements 12 for panorama stitching – you have to look pretty damn closely to find the joins.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For panorama stitching Hugin is the software to use and it's free. However I am lazy and use CS5 just can't be bothered to load into another bit of software.

 

When I need to upgrade with the new pay monthly system for Photoshop it will likely be Lightroom but Bridge does my organizing and I do like RAW 6. 5 with CS5 the Elements version has so much missing and if I was using just Elements I would move over to RawtherapeePortable. It's not as good as RAW 6. 5 which comes with CS5 but better than what comes with Elements not sure as to what RAW comes with Lightroom?

 

Given up with PC control of camera for now at least may try again some other time but it crashes too often to really be useable.

 

Anyway looking at PC clock I must say Merry Christmas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And Merry Christmas right back at ‘ya! ;) I hope you had a good one.

Just a quick point about Camera RAW. Both Photoshop Elements and Photoshop Lightroom continually update Camera RAW…most months I am advised an update is required (for Camera RAW and perhaps less frequently for Lightroom). You can get the latest RAW developments without forking out for the Creative Suite i. e sub £100

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My mate Dennis has some good astral photos on his site.

 

He'd been a photographer for many years, but once he got the astral bug, he had to move from Essex to Lincolnshire to get the dark skies.

 

Anyway, worth a look if you're interested.

 

http://www. dens-astropics. org. uk/

Edited by Wunny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want something cheaper than the Hahnel timer, you might consider this for your model of camera: clicky here. Definitely not pro quality hardware but it does work.

 

I got some good info from here, and inspiration from here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just looking at starting with time lapse and some very good ideas thanks. Not sure what software you are using I am looking at SM Tether for Nikon D7000 and Pentax Remote Assistance 3 for the K10D but as yet not tried to put the frames together as a movie. I was considering Pictures to EXE or PhotoStage Slideshow Producer.

 

Limit would seem laptop battery the D-SLR lasts for ages but Laptop is rather limited. As to quality that's another question in the main I use RAW but for time lapse is this really required? I would think 2M and one star Jpeg is enough.

 

Local camera club the AV is quite common but time lapse seems not to be used so more info please.

check out the book Time-lapse photograhy: Ryan Chylinski with youtube lectures. I have it on my ipad and am working through it just now. Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  



×
×
  • Create New...