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Brocher12

Alde Wet System

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Never had a problem with the Alde, but they can take a while to get up to temperature - same as house radiators. I normally have the van connected up outside the house a day before setting off to campsite, so it can have the heating turned on to warm up all that cold heating fluid in the circuit. Then it warms the van up a bit quicker that from totally cold.(unless you are travelling a long distance).

 

We did have a 12v boiler mounted pump fitted (mainly to cure the whiring noise from the standard cupboard mounted pump), but this doesn't really make that much difference. One thing that does make a difference in heating up time is not filling the under seat areas with large bulky items - as this stops the air from circulating efficiently past the rads.

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I won't fit fans to the main area myself although they make spence to me, as I rarely will use the van in severe conditions. I am however going to look at the possibility of making the small rad in the bathroom of my Valencia fan assisted as this room does not get its fair share of the heat.

 

 

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Never had a problem with the Alde, but they can take a while to get up to temperature - same as house radiators. I normally have the van connected up outside the house a day before setting off to campsite, so it can have the heating turned on to warm up all that cold heating fluid in the circuit. Then it warms the van up a bit quicker that from totally cold.(unless you are travelling a long distance).

 

We did have a 12v boiler mounted pump fitted (mainly to cure the whiring noise from the standard cupboard mounted pump), but this doesn't really make that much difference. One thing that does make a difference in heating up time is not filling the under seat areas with large bulky items - as this stops the air from circulating efficiently past the rads.

I do that and also lift the bed and seats so that the undersides get warm and get a good airing.

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Another, simpler way for a quick warm up is to just use gas for the Alde heating and a small fan heater from the mains, if the OP tries this could save some expense and work.

 

 

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One thing that does make a difference in heating up time is not filling the under seat areas with large bulky items - as this stops the air from circulating efficiently past the rads.

 

Our Airstream has false floors in the bed lockers and cupboards which leave a void of about one inch at ground level to allow air flow to the radiators - works extremely well!

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Another, simpler way for a quick warm up is to just use gas for the Alde heating and a small fan heater from the mains, if the OP tries this could save some expense and work.

 

I agree. We have an Alde 2kw system which takes quite some time to heat the van up if temps below 0. Last year we used a fan heater and Electric/gas at -9 and were nice and warm within the hour.

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Fans ordered and frame constructed to hold in place. The only place i can fit these fans is under the nearside seats as there is no room on the otherside due to water heaters etc. Supposed to be delivered today but as per, not arrived. Might get a chance to try tomorrow if they are here early enough as going offshore again on Thursday for a fortnight.

 

Will inform back when fitted and tested. Have figures for non fan assisted heat up over an hour.

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Well, i am dissapointed to say that the fans failed to heat the van more quickly and if taking it to the nitty gritty, probably slighly slower. I felt the airflow above the rad and it actually felt cold even tho the rad was hot to the touch. I believe if the flow rates were reduced say 5-7 volts to the fans then it may improve but this would involve costly voltage reducers and not worth the hassle.

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Well, i am dissapointed to say that the fans failed to heat the van more quickly and if taking it to the nitty gritty, probably slighly slower. I felt the airflow above the rad and it actually felt cold even tho the rad was hot to the touch. I believe if the flow rates were reduced say 5-7 volts to the fans then it may improve but this would involve costly voltage reducers and not worth the hassle.

Just wire two fans in series? As long as both are same, each fan will see half the supply volts.

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Just wire two fans in series? As long as both are same, each fan will see half the supply volts.

I suppose i could try it and see if the airflow is reduced as i had two fans on the rads. I'll let you know.

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Rewired and now on test

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started @ 6 degrees C, after 1 hour on 2kW elec, temp up to 8. 5 degreesC, nothing special there.

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started @ 6 degrees C, after 1 hour on 2kW elec, temp up to 8. 5 degreesC, nothing special there.

Points to the van not actually continuously taking 2 kW but the internal [boiler] thermostat switching off.

Have you a plug in power meter you could install on the socket that services the EHU lead? That way you could check the power is actually going to the system over the two hours. I suspect it can't be.

Edited by JTQ

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I did have but its US now. Why would the supply cut on and off if the system demands it. Thermostat was set at 25 degreeC so should never of cut out.

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There are two thermostats; the one I feel is cutting out is the one in the boiler, not the room stat you set.

The reason I believe it must be cutting out is that if it is not then two kws of energy is going into your van for two hours and I simply can't believe that only raises the temperature by 2. 5 degrees C.

Therefore I believe the two kWs is not actually going in for two hours; something is switching it off for periods over the two hours.

 

I am assuming you have not got the skylight or windows open?

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Is the circulation pump running?? are the radiators getting hot?? Have you turned on the mains isolator switch??

Have you checked the fuses on the boiler, see My Caravan Site at:

 

http://www. mycaravan. org. uk/Alde. html

 

for details.

 

Dave

Edited by caraman1

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Everything closed. The pipes and radiators are too hot to touch, granted i have only touched these a couple of times and coincidence be it when the boiler is on. I will try and borrow/buy one and see what it says.



Dave, pump is in the expansion tank in cupboard, running with no issues. Rads and pipes unbearable to touch more than 2 seconds.

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Everything closed. The pipes and radiators are too hot to touch, granted i have only touched these a couple of times and coincidence be it when the boiler is on. I will try and borrow/buy one and see what it says.

 

Dave, pump is in the expansion tank in cupboard, running with no issues. Rads and pipes unbearable to touch more than 2 seconds.

The last time we used the caravan a 2011 Delta TI was in early December when the temperature averaged zero. It took most of the day for it to warm up to a comfortable level and this not pleasant. Initially it was started on gas and then switched to electric. The wife was not amused!

It was only the next day that you could say that the caravan was comfortable and stayed at 22C. Admittedly during the night we turned it down to 17C. The heat does not circulate as no fan.

In the summer it is even worse as you have no fan to draw in cool air from under the caravan like with the Truma system. The Omnivent just moves warm air around. TBH we would prefer the old Truma system with all its hassles. Warms up quicker and can cool in summer!

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Guest jks

I have always hated the old Truma fire and blown air system because it looks old fashioned but it does work extremely well. Since I added a timed thermostat to it so that it comes on the mornings I have changed my view completely

Far more versatile than any of the other ones.

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I think the Alde is a better system than blown air but the main problems are the installation and the number of rads. There has to be unrestricted air flow which should mean vents in the front of lockers and false floors. The full size rads are 60mm x 60mm and give off 400w of heat per meter and the compact rads are 30mm x 30mm and only give 180w per meter. If you check which rads are fitted and measure the total length you might find you may only have 2000w of heating capacity and it does not matter if your Alde boiler is 8kw it can only give 2kw of heat into the van and if the free circulation is poor than it makes things even worse.

The " Grade 3 Insulation " that all the manufacturers brag about only means that the van can maintain 20 degrees at -15. It should have included a max time to get there then they would have had to install the system correctly

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I think the Alde is a better system than blown air but the main problems are the installation and the number of rads. There has to be unrestricted air flow which should mean vents in the front of lockers and false floors. The full size rads are 60mm x 60mm and give off 400w of heat per meter and the compact rads are 30mm x 30mm and only give 180w per meter. If you check which rads are fitted and measure the total length you might find you may only have 2000w of heating capacity and it does not matter if your Alde boiler is 8kw it can only give 2kw of heat into the van and if the free circulation is poor than it makes things even worse.

The " Grade 3 Insulation " that all the manufacturers brag about only means that the van can maintain 20 degrees at -15. It should have included a max time to get there then they would have had to install the system correctly

And I guess you lose heat through the un-insulated pipework that you can't see? I mentioned earlier on that in order to get all the heat to the rads/finnned bits, all the pipework should be lagged as it's the rads that give off the heat, not the pipes.

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And I guess you lose heat through the un-insulated pipework that you can't see? I mentioned earlier on that in order to get all the heat to the rads/finnned bits, all the pipework should be lagged as it's the rads that give off the heat, not the pipes.

Provided the pipework is internal, it will give out a small amount of heat in addition to the radiators. Lagging internal pipework will reduce the total heat output slightly. Of course any external pipework, if there is any, should be lagged.

Brian

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And I guess you lose heat through the un-insulated pipework that you can't see? I mentioned earlier on that in order to get all the heat to the rads/finnned bits, all the pipework should be lagged as it's the rads that give off the heat, not the pipes.

The emission from the uninsulated tubes within the van living area is generally a plus not a minus; you can't have too much radiating surface, You can end up with the heat going to the wrong places but even this is unlikely from tubes within the van. Where they need insulating is where they are run close to a refrigerator or though the 'fridges cooling duct.

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