Alternative Mains Inlet Socket

[Guest]

Why cant you just plug the mains cable in before finally parking the van? - It seems a lot of effort for something so simple

On some installations the isolation key for the mover is placed to deliberately obstruct the mains inlet, thus preventing movement with the lead connected.

Gordon.

[Watson(JohnG)]

I can and do use my mover while connected to the mains at home if I want to move the caravan a few metres for access to the van side with no problems

I did try having the car attached to check the 13 pin connections recently

If anyone else does this with the Swift and experiences a whistling noise it stops if you unplug or switch off the mains supply

 

We were on a site at Blackpool when someone drove off while still attached to the hook up

This caused site electrics to trip and interrupted the TV football

[sacko]

I can and do use my mover while connected to the mains at home if I want to move the caravan a few metres for access to the van side with no problems

 

Just came across this in a guide to powrtouch motor movers:

'It also uses an isolation switch usually fitted in the battery box below the 240v input, this turns power on to the control panel while hopefully stopping the 240v cable from being connected, because if you run the mover with the mains plugged in you run the high risk of burning out the vans charger as the power needed is far greater than the charger can handle.'

 

You have been warned :wacko:

[dougie]

phew!! what complication`s and hassle. I`d hate to be around when you guy`s get a real problem. I would bridge or link the kill switch from inside plug in mains (power off) park van, remove bridge, mains on.

Edited October 15, 2011 by dougie

[Champ]

phew!! what complication`s and hassle. I`d hate to be around when you guy`s get a real problem. I would bridge or link the kill switch from inside plug in mains (power off) park van, remove bridge, mains on.

 

.

Hi Dougie,

 

Did you read all the OP's first post?

Moving the caravan isn't the problem initially.

He want's to be able to recharge the caravan battery(s) after he has finished using the MM.

Well, thats how I think I first read it.

 

Graham

[Guest]

I would bridge or link the kill switch from inside plug in mains (power off) park van, remove bridge, mains on.

. ..and by doing so, defeat the safety interlock that prevents 'accidental' powering of the charger circuit while the mover is in use, and also have to move the caravan with the EHU lead trailing on the ground.

 

This would work providing you could bridge the 12V mover isolation switch safely, you remembered to remove the 240V supply first, you remembered to disable the mover again before reinstating the 240V feed, and you were fortunate enough not to run over the mains lead while moving the 'van. Hardy a professional approach to the problem in my opinion, as it relies on memory and good luck.

 

I have spent most of my working life trying to convince people with a disregard for safety to stick to the rules, and I feel very strongly that interlocks are there for the protection of users and equipment, and should never be bypassed. Believe me, I have seen the kind of serious injuries that can result when people that know better, with the best of intentions defeat an interlock, so please do not do it.

 

Gordon.

[sacko]

Thanks for everyone's help on this.

 

I've decided what I need to do is:

 

1. Cut the power cable inside the van under the seating and connect male & female plugs as per Graham's suggestion. I don't think I will need to use it often so am happy to run the hook up cable though a window when the need arises.

 

2. Install another MM cutoff switch inside the van in series with the existing switch. I will switch off the MM using this whenever I am parked up against the wall (not just when hooked up) to reduce the drain on the battery.

 

I realise that it will still be physically possible to connect to the mains with the MM switched on but the risk of me forgetting is minimal as the new power cable connections and the cutoff switch will be next to each other.

 

Sacko

[Watson(JohnG)]

 

Just came across this in a guide to powrtouch motor movers:

'It also uses an isolation switch usually fitted in the battery box below the 240v input, this turns power on to the control panel while hopefully stopping the 240v cable from being connected, because if you run the mover with the mains plugged in you run the high risk of burning out the vans charger as the power needed is far greater than the charger can handle.'

 

You have been warned :wacko:

Surely that applies if the van battery isn't in situ

The mover is connected directly to the van battery

If the battery has been on charge as the mains is connected it should be up to full charge before the load is applied from the mover

If you just plug in the caravan to the mains with a flat battery then the advice not to could be worth heeding

Edited October 16, 2011 by Watson(JohnG)

[sacko]

Surely that applies if the van battery isn't in situ

The mover is connected directly to the van battery

If the battery has been on charge as the mains is connected it should be up to full charge before the load is applied from the mover

If you just plug in the caravan to the mains with a flat battery then the advice not to could be worth heeding

What you say sounds reasonable - but I'm no expert.

[Guest]

If the battery has been on charge as the mains is connected it should be up to full charge before the load is applied from the mover

If you just plug in the caravan to the mains with a flat battery then the advice not to could be worth heeding

Hi John,

Depending upon the design of the "soft start" circuit of the mover, so long as the mains charger remains powered, there is a risk that the starting current of the mover may cause the battery terminal volts to drop sufficiently for excessive current to be drawn from the charger circuit. Hence the advice below from Powrtouch, and quoted by 'Sacko'.

'...if you run the mover with the mains plugged in you run the high risk of burning out the vans charger as the power needed is far greater than the charger can handle.'

I hope that makes sense.

Gordon.

[CommanderDave]

I move my caravan with EHU cable in as I m to lazy to remove it just to move a few metres out normally to wash the caravan but the power is turned off at the plug socket in the household supply while the mover is working and then it is turned back on after moving it. It will only cause damage if the mover is pulling high loads of power off the Transformer /Charger while on . The Motor mover isolator would need a extension to a second switch on the other side or moving the original to be able to reach it after it has been moved .

 

 

Dave

Edited October 16, 2011 by CommanderDave

[Watson(JohnG)]

Hi John,

Depending upon the design of the "soft start" circuit of the mover, so long as the mains charger remains powered, there is a risk that the starting current of the mover may cause the battery terminal volts to drop sufficiently for excessive current to be drawn from the charger circuit. Hence the advice below from Powrtouch, and quoted by 'Sacko'.

I hope that makes sense.

Gordon.

I will bear it in mind and unplug from the wall in future---just in case

[Doosan]

The other problem I can see is what do you do if the battery goes down for some reason,how could you change it for a new one ?

 

As Gordon says can you move the battery to the opposite side of the van ?

 

Doosan

[dougie]

. ..and by doing so, defeat the safety interlock that prevents 'accidental' powering of the charger circuit while the mover is in use, and also have to move the caravan with the EHU lead trailing on the ground.

 

This would work providing you could bridge the 12V mover isolation switch safely, you remembered to remove the 240V supply first, you remembered to disable the mover again before reinstating the 240V feed, and you were fortunate enough not to run over the mains lead while moving the 'van. Hardy a professional approach to the problem in my opinion, as it relies on memory and good luck.

 

I have spent most of my working life trying to convince people with a disregard for safety to stick to the rules, and I feel very strongly that interlocks are there for the protection of users and equipment, and should never be bypassed. Believe me, I have seen the kind of serious injuries that can result when people that know better, with the best of intentions defeat an interlock, so please do not do it.

 

Gordon.

 

Get off yer high horse, That switch is only there to switch off power to the box. In a lot of installations (mine,a Truma )it isnt fitted or fitted outside the battery box. eg Hobby. In all movers i have worked on the box switches off after a short period whether a "kill" switch is fitted or not.

Edited October 24, 2011 by dougie