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Coachman Amara 2003 Ultrastore Gas Heating Issues + Blown Air Cutting Out


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Hi everyone and thanks for taking a look at this thread.

 

We've just got back from a weekend away and had the misfortune of not being able to use the ultrastore for any water heating. ( I know the kettle is good etc ) The unit does make some clonk sounds and ticking sounds but never lights. It worked last time without issues 6-7 weeks ago but not a thing this weekend. We were on a field so no EHU etc ( which tends to be how we camp in general ) however this leads me to my net query.

 

I've searched about and found a couple of suggestions eg PCB board *Exclamation* price wise of a flamerectify electtrode etc. Both seem damn expensive and dont want to pay out if I dont need to. is there anything else I can do before going down this route ?

 

 

Whilst on EHU and leaving blown air heating on why is it that the damn thing doesn't stay on and I wake up freezing ?

 

We've tried all settings and the only thing that seems to work is 500w setting nothing more and even then somethimes it doesn't work.

 

Our van is a Coachman Amara 520/4 I'd love to solve this little issue as apart from that its great any help would be gratefully received.

 

Also any idea where I can get a genuine A-Frame cover as ours has always been missing and you can see the frame, which I'd like to tidy up ?

 

thanks

 

Thanks.

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I have the same model/year and had the same issue early this year with the water heater.

 

When standing outside while somebody else tried to start the heater I realised that the burner was actually lighting but the igniter (the rapid ticking) would continue. Eventually the valve would drop (the clunk) and the gas would go out. After looking at the diagrams I realised there were two candidates for the problem, either the flame failure probe at £15 but a faff to change or the PCB at £140 although easy to replace.

 

As my time is cheap I tried the former however this did not solve it so I was left with the PCB. Before spending the money I contacted Truma UK to see if there was anything else to look at and I got a very helpful reply.

"

TRUMA

Park Lane, Dove Valley Park

Foston, Derbyshire, DE65 5BG

Truma Service/Technical 01283 586020

Lines open 8. 30am - 5. 00pm Mon - Thur, 8. 30am - 1. 30pm Fri

Dear Mr Stewart

 

I have consulted with John Tregay, Truma Senior Service Engineer, and respond to your query on his behalf.

 

John responds that if you know that your gas pressure and voltage are good, you are experiencing a small reverse polarity somewhere in your system. To locate this I would advise you to either run a separate power feed to the boiler and disconnect the leisure battery and then try the heater on its own. If you cannot do this I would remove all the 12volt supply fuses except the one for the boiler, your boiler should now run fine, now replace the fuses one at a time until you here the ignition come on, this will highlight were the fault is.

 

If you require any further assistance do not hesitate to contact us.

 

Kind Regards

Nicki Price

Service Department Administrator - Truma UK

Service Department

"

 

And he was right. Powering the heater from its own 12v supply (secondary battery in my case) independant of the van would allow the heater to work although the fuse idea did not identify where the problem was. It did not matter how I did it, if either of the +ve or -ve feed came from the van the heater would not stay alight.

 

What eventually solved the problem for me was to run a separate earth lead from the case of the heater to the negative terminal of the battery, with that in place the heater works every time.

 

Anybody want a Truma FFD :)

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Hi and thanks HairyFool that certainly looks like a good few things to check out prior to replacing parts, I could certainly do with spending less on unwanted parts.

 

I've recorded a sound clip of what ours is doing if it should come up for other which I'll upload once I've sussed out how to

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