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Damp!


Tricia01
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Hi

I have damp in the toilet/shower room of the caravan, it appears to have leaked through the awning rails. We know how to reseal them but need help in replacing the plywood board on the window side, that is completely wet through but the other walls seem ok, no soft spots, although when they tested it with the damp meter it showed on the back wall aswell. we have tried to remove the paper but its not budging the walls are solid, could the meter be picking it from the bathroom? Its a elddis Odessey 534.

Any help would be much appreciated.

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the "paper " is bonded to the ply thats why it won't come off. Take a sample of the board out for a colour match. We keep quite a few in stock. Or, depending on the age of van and if you don't want to spend too much money, you can replace the board with 3ply from your local timber merchants then bond a suitable covering onto to it. Put a coating of pva glue over the top to seal it.

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Hi

we have now stripped it as the paper just fell off, but the board is glued to the polystyrene and thats glued to the shell! its a nightmare

we have spent all morning trying to get the board off, the strut in the corner is also rotten, whats the best way off getting to that? as it seems like it has been fixed from the back before the fibre glass panel was put on?

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You need to cut the wall board with a stanley knife using a metal ruler then rip the board off first with a bolster and then your fingers,

 

All the black wood needs to come out mallet chisels drills, gently mind you don't bend the outer skin, and then replace frame with new timber jointed glued and doweled as appropriate. Order new wall board soon as possible as it may well have a lead time of a month or more

 

I and a friend have just repaired my Lunar from water ingress it took us best part of a weeks work for two of us That is actual time not elapsed. We started in late august and finished last weekend (Oct) It is probably the biggest and most stressful DIY job I have ever undertaken.

 

Removing internal; cupboards to get at the area is a pain as these are constructed and fitted prior to assembling the rear panel during manufacturel you often cannot get to fixings and need to hack saw them off.

 

Benefit was it cost £150 in materials with a professional job being quoted at £1,800 but not without some angst. Cleaning awning rails of old silkaflex was the most tiresome part taking a whole morning for each rail section, 4 in all. Glad it is now finished and really pleased with the end result and so is my wallet.

 

PS invest in a damp meter as this helps to let you know stuff is drying out especially the floor where beneath the vinyl it cannot breath to dry.

Edited by Fenester
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Thank you for that. ...we spent a few hours saturday resealing the awning rail,Horrible job. ..yes just invested in a damp meter, wish i

had done that in the first place!

 

I think it should be quite satisfying once its done and at lease we will know that its all been sealed correctly.

I will keep you posted.

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Can you tell us how you sealed the rail. Did you remove it or just ease it away from the van?

 

Would it help others who feel put off from a DIY effort?

Ford C-Max and Coachman Festival 380/2 SE 2006    Motto  Carpe Diem

Still trying to find the perfect pitch. ..110 amp Battery+ 65 watt roof mounted Solar and 25 watt Wind Turbine. LED lighting. Status Aerial 315. Loose chattels marked with UV,. Safefill Gas Fitted.

 

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We took it off using fishing line (25 pound line) cheese wire style and then cleaned them off with wire wool and white spirit and resealed them with non setting caravan bedding sealant took three tubes at c. £5. 80 each and new stainless steels screws. You must put enough on so it "squeezes" out when you tighten the screws you actually hear the sealant pop and squeak! as the pressure builds.

 

To get a good seal I think you need to get all the old sealant off particularly in our case it was silkaflex not non setting bedding sealant. There were substantial sections where the sealant had not stuck to the ABS rear panel the leak was caused by a design fault in how the rear spoiler was fitted.

 

Each rail took about 3-4 hours to do there are 3 each side on my van in sections. We had to do the rear third on each side plus the roof transverse rail and the awning skirt rail at the rear. A tedious messy job; you also need good weather or some where to take the van inside.

 

Any more help just ask.

Edited by Fenester
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The only way to seal the joint is to remove the rails completely and remastic as the awning rail only covers the joint behind the rail that is leaking . Just covering the rails with mastic will not stop them leaking .

 

Caravans are difficult to take apart from the inside as they are built from the inside out with the outside skins going on last .

 

 

Dave

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We eased rails off and then cleaned them with white spirit and a scraper and cloth, we gently removed all the old mastic from the van with white spirit and a plastic scraper. Once they were clean we then went over them with meths to kill the grease from the white spirit, otherwise the sealant wont bond.

 

We used Sikaflex 512 to reseal the rails, but it took longer to clean that off than do the job! I would probably use the mastic tape

next time. We then over sealed it and sealed all the joints and screws.

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Thank you all.

 

Good sound advice which may help others tackle the job.

 

Some fancy prices are quoted for this job and can be DIY if done carefully.

Ford C-Max and Coachman Festival 380/2 SE 2006    Motto  Carpe Diem

Still trying to find the perfect pitch. ..110 amp Battery+ 65 watt roof mounted Solar and 25 watt Wind Turbine. LED lighting. Status Aerial 315. Loose chattels marked with UV,. Safefill Gas Fitted.

 

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