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Unhitching


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Having recently purchased a Disco 4, I have noticed problems unhitching from the AL-KO Stabilser; Hitching Up is no Problem but when I get to site the only way I have managed to un-hitch is to reverse very cautiously whilst the stabiliser is in an open position. ..............i have spoken to the dealer, who thinks the car is the problem NOT the AL-KO 3004. ...........Has anyone heard or experienced this problem?

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the only way I have managed to un-hitch is to reverse very cautiously whilst the stabiliser is in an open position. ..............

 

 

Presumably with the hitch/unhitch lever also elevated and the van handbrake on?

 

I always ensure I drive forward before unhitching as if you unhitch with the hitch pressed backwards it springs forwards as soon as its unhitched and bashes into the my bumper. I suspect it would also push the socket of the hitch into the aft side of the ball and make it more difficult for it to rise clear.

 

 

If you have to reverse to get it to come free with the van brake on it suggests the van and hitch has to be tilted back to free the ball? If so this sounds as if the height of the ball may need adjusting.

 

Have you or the dealer tried hitching it to another vehicle and found there is no problem?

Edited by lottie
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Mine is the Winterhoff but a swine to get off at times.

 

I always make sure that hitch is halfway compressed, that the hitch handle is fully released in the up position and waggle the hitch from side to side while winding the jockey wheel up.

 

Make sure that the hitch lock is fully released, if mine isn't fully released, no way will it unhook!

 

Some reassurance that it will stay put when towing I suppose.

 Stay safe ~ Griff    :ph34r:

Wheels at the front ~ Green Oval Towing Machine

Wheels at the back ~ 4 of ‘em

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I use the mover to make sure the tow bar is mid-extension before disconnecting.

 

 

That's interesting Bartow. Can I ask why you do that?

 

Sorry if I'm being dim about this but do I understand you correctly that you ensure the hitch is partly depressed in towards the van before you unhitch?

 

As I say above, I always do the opposite - make sure the hitch is fully extended forwards - to avoid damage to my car from the depressed hitch springing forwards when released. Which I guess is why people use those plate thingies in front of their towball (mine is a detachable swan neck so can't fit one of those).

Edited by lottie
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I have found that if I reverse onto the pitch and then try to unhitch the van it just ends up jacking the back of my car up.

 

So what I do now is just move forwards by 2" and the hitch comes of easy,don't know why, just think it is to do with the pressure

of pushing back.

 

Doosan

 

Bailey Pageant Series 6 Champagne 2007    Tow Car Toyota Rav4

 

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If the hitch is a either end of its travel attached then the ball will be pressed against the fornt or back . So its makes perfect sense to have it mid travel so there is some lateral movement allowing it to lift easily.

 

Re bashing into bumper. I use a old car mat hung over from the boot behind the hitch that protects it. also same carpet to put on ground to kneel on whilst coupling up electrics & breakaway cable . plus clamp on wheel

 

also never had trouble with winterhoff if you hold the handle up it comes of easily plus hitching is easier than the alko.

Coachman Pastiche tugged by Mazda CX-7, Wine supplied by Sainsburys & sunday Times wine Club.

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Mine is the Winterhoff but a swine to get off at times.

 

I always make sure that hitch is halfway compressed, that the hitch handle is fully released in the up position and waggle the hitch from side to side while winding the jockey wheel up.

 

Make sure that the hitch lock is fully released, if mine isn't fully released, no way will it unhook!

 

Some reassurance that it will stay put when towing I suppose.

 

With My Winterhoff I find I have to pull forward after reversing and it just lifts straight off with one hand lifting the hitch lever as high as it will go and winding the jockey handle with the other hand as any pressure on the ball wont allow it to release . Also IF there is any pressure from the compressed hitch I find if it is wiggled off it then pushes the hitch forward into the bumper.

 

 

Dave

Edited by CommanderDave
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If the hitch is a either end of its travel attached then the ball will be pressed against the fornt or back . So its makes perfect sense to have it mid travel so there is some lateral movement allowing it to lift easily.

 

Re bashing into bumper. I use a old car mat hung over from the boot behind the hitch that protects it. also same carpet to put on ground to kneel on whilst coupling up electrics & breakaway cable . plus clamp on wheel

 

also never had trouble with winterhoff if you hold the handle up it comes of easily plus hitching is easier than the alko.

 

 

Thanks for the mat tip Proterra. I assumed the hitch head was sprung loaded so that its resting position is forward. Is this not so? If push it in and let go it springs out again.

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Thanks for the mat tip Proterra. I assumed the hitch head was sprung loaded so that its resting position is forward. Is this not so? If push it in and let go it springs out again.

 

Very old hitches were spring loaded but modern hitches incorporate a hydraulic damper which has much the same effect.

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