Jump to content

How Do I Know If...


thewelshman
 Share

Recommended Posts

my car is sending power to the charger/fridge when connected? My thetford fridge has no switch to confirm!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am no expert . .. but I think

 

With the master switch off and the fridge set to the "Battery" symbol the inside light in the fridge is off. ..... plug in the car and the light comes on (hense the fridge is working)

 

(That's on my Bailey pegasus)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If that's the case then Booo, its not!

 

Ah well thanks!

 

Does the light in the fridge work on mains hookup?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am no expert . .. but I think

 

With the master switch off and the fridge set to the "Battery" symbol the inside light in the fridge is off. ..... plug in the car and the light comes on (hense the fridge is working)

 

(That's on my Bailey pegasus)

 

Nearly right. With the setup as above the car engine needs to be running to operate the fridge. More accurately, the car engine needs to be running and the alternator outputting power. And also more accurately, shouldn't it be Booo Hooo?

 

And stop playing around with your fridges and car engines at midnight. Some of us need our beauty sleep.

Edited by bartow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

my car is sending power to the charger/fridge when connected? My thetford fridge has no switch to confirm!

well I have the same fridge & the same problem as there is no indicator to say that 12v is getting to the fridge .

 

how ever you can check the charging current to the battery by using a volt meter with the car engine running at fast tick over you should get aprox 14v switch off the engine & the reading will drop

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone - yes the light works normally but not when hooked up to the car with the caravan mains switch turned off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hitch up car. Drive non stop to South of France.

If Wine is cold when you get there it's working, but you are tired and need to stay over for a few weeks to recover and get the bad back 'all that driving' sorted.

If wine is warm, phone home explain the problem and spend rest of winter 'still trying to get it fixed dear.'

Simple really.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you are hooked up to the car you have to have the engine ticking over at above 1000 rpm so that the relay clicks over to feed a supply to the fridge.

 

It does not matter what position the caravan switch is. That has nothing to do with the circuit at all.

 

It is also good practise to check the grey plug and socket - if you have 7 pins arrangement - to see if the pins are not crushed together.

 

One other suggestion is to hold your hand over the top fridge vent outside. You should feel heat coming out of it no matter if you are on gas/car or EHU.

 

After a ten mile trip, stop and feel for heat. If you feel warmth, then everything is okay.

 

When you are getting a supply from the car it is worth knowing that the thermostat is NOT operative. The circuit bypasses the thermostat and it is on full cooling. This applies to 90% of vans.

 

The above is applicable to my van but may be different on yours, but I hope this helps.

 

Bo

Edited by Bailey Oklahoma
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should have a relay on the car that only sends power to the fridge when the engine is running and the car battery is adequately charged. Starting the car engine reduces battery charge a bit and this takes time to recover so make sure you let the engine run at a high tickover for a few minutes before trying to check for power at the fridge.

 

Bit technical really, I prefer the wine approach above, much more civilised.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Bit technical really, I prefer the wine approach above, much more civilised.

 

So, er, how do you cool it if . ..........................................

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all, I am going to put a multimeter on the connections this weekend and try and find out exactly what is working and what is not I guess I may need to run a dedicated 12v from the battery for this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Nearly right. With the setup as above the car engine needs to be running to operate the fridge.

 

Oops forgot that bit . .............. also on some vehicles there is some kind of extra wiring / relay needed ??? . .. again not an expert but I know my father in Laws Ford Kuga had to go back to Ford as they hadnt wired up this relay thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Oops forgot that bit . .............. also on some vehicles there is some kind of extra wiring / relay needed ??? . .. again not an expert but I know my father in Laws Ford Kuga had to go back to Ford as they hadnt wired up this relay thing.

 

 

As stated by my honourable self above. You have to read all the posting Amanda :P

Edited by Bailey Oklahoma
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

As stated by my honourable self above. You have to read all the posting Amanda :P

 

I did . .. but Fraudsters ooops I mean Ford had everything wired up correct . .. everything working battery charging lights etc except his fridge and it was the lack of this relay thing . ... we wouldnt have know except he has a Luna and there is a light on his fridge which tells him if the fridge is working. .... No relay No fridge working.

 

This was when they fitted a Ford towbar with Ford electrics to a brand new car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I did . .. but Fraudsters ooops I mean Ford had everything wired up correct . .. everything working battery charging lights etc except his fridge and it was the lack of this relay thing . ... we wouldnt have know except he has a Luna and there is a light on his fridge which tells him if the fridge is working. .... No relay No fridge working.

 

This was when they fitted a Ford towbar with Ford electrics to a brand new car.

 

Now that is a darn good point Amanda. As it so happens I can't tell if my fridge is working on battery while towing since there is no indication.

 

DOMETIC idiots AGAIN. I feel a modification coming on.

 

Bo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought - do you guys have the master switch turned on or off when driving? Would this impact the power to the fridge as it is an isolator is it not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought - do you guys have the master switch turned on or off when driving? Would this impact the power to the fridge as it is an isolator is it not?

 

Assuming you mean the master switch on the fridge then it has to be turned to 'DC". If you mean the van DC master switch then it makes no difference on recent vans as the habitation relay kills that circuit when towing. I think!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Someone has suggested to me that I take a second feed off the 12v connection at the rear of the car (the one supplying the charge to the battery) with a relay on it and connect that up to the fridge pin.

 

Might work and it does have a 40 am fuse so should cope with the draw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Now that is a darn good point Amanda. As it so happens I can't tell if my fridge is working on battery while towing since there is no indication.

 

DOMETIC idiots AGAIN. I feel a modification coming on.

 

Bo

 

If you do come up with a mod please let us all know as it is a pain not knowing if the fridge is working whilst towing - need a cool beer to set me right before tackling the awning!!

 

 

Al,

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Someone has suggested to me that I take a second feed off the 12v connection at the rear of the car (the one supplying the charge to the battery) with a relay on it and connect that up to the fridge pin.

 

Might work and it does have a 40 am fuse so should cope with the draw

Checking for heat at the fridge vent is a good idea.

 

On our Dometic 2004 fridge we had three LEDs, gas, mains, 12 volt.

 

But thats only a indication that the supply is there to the fridge, we always used it for the 12 volt side before we set off.

 

But its no guarantee that the fridge is working correctly.

 

What you could do is splice into the 12 volt supply, and fit a LED visible through the external vent.

 

The 240 volt element failed 3 times on our 2004 senator, i fitted the last element myself and came of the lead to the element to a couple of connectors, the idea was to enable a quick and easy method of checking the elements resistance and supply, you could also fit a 240 volt neon .

 

Another check could be testing across the battery, with the car running should be over 14 volts, you don't get the charge voltage unless the fridge supply is to the habitation relays.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought - do you guys have the master switch turned on or off when driving? Would this impact the power to the fridge as it is an isolator is it not?

 

My master switch on the BO makes no difference whatever position it is in, while on my old Lunar the was a switch where I could either select car or battery, but I think you will find that whatever setup you have, once you connect up to the car, the supply to the fridge is direct without ANY switches in line, and the vast majority of 'vans are similiar.

 

There is also no thremostat in line either. While towing the fridge is on full cooling

 

BO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had same problem when connecting up our PEGASUS in that the ATC did not come on, I then wondered whether the boot 12v light /cigar lighter which our coolbox is connected to had fused and it had . It was the 10 amp fuse from the car battery. . So no ATC, fridge, and coolbox had not been on for few hours

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have wired a small green indicator accross the 12v supply to the fridge. This glows when the car cicuit is supplying (car running, 13/7pin plugged in) and dims slightly when the fridge is switched to battery showing that the fridge is drawing is 8-10 amps.

 

Just to confirm. The van master switch is irrelavant for the fridge 12v. It can be on or off, doesnt matter. Also with the more recent wiring the van habitaion 12v circuits are switched off when the car is attached although the van battery continues to take charge from the car. This is why on many vans the gas ignition (essential for the mid journey cuppa) won't light the gas till the grey 7S or 13pin plug is removed (or the gas is lite by match).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...