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Trumatic Heating System


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Hello everyone,

 

Could anyone please help me to figure out my heating system in my Dethleff 540. I think it is a Trumatic system with a fire with 2 dials on the top. One dial has the numbers 1 to 10 on it and an ignition button and one has 1 to 5 with a switch below it. There is also a dial with a green light in it and a switch. I can not figure out how to get electric part of heating system working !

 

I am totally new to caravaning and unfortunatly did not receive the manuals.

 

Thanks,

 

George.

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the switch will be for the main power to the unit, so this needs to be on.

the dial with the green light will possibly be the wattage setting normally 0, 500, 1000 + 2000 kw. this you set to what heat setting you want. on the outside of this will be another ring which will be the thermostat, unless a seperate one has been fitted. .

the dials on the top right of the fire will be for the heating being run on gas, the one one the left on electric.

 

this is how i work mine. ....

switch the main power swith on

turn the dial to select your heat wattage and the thermostat set at the highest.

the fire will start to heat up. you can leave it running like this or, leave it for ten minutes or so then turn the dial on the top left to 2. 5 and the slideing switch under that to the left.

you will now have the warm air blowing out through the internal vents in the caravan. these have flaps that can be altered accordingly.

 

if you turn the blower on via the slideing switch too soon you will just get cool air through the vents.

treat it like the heating in your car really.

 

hope this helps

 

mat

Astra 2L SRI cdti Sports Tourer 2014

Going Go Pod micro tourer 2015

Towing at 46%

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Hello everyone,

 

Could anyone please help me to figure out my heating system in my Dethleff 540. I think it is a Trumatic system with a fire with 2 dials on the top. One dial has the numbers 1 to 10 on it and an ignition button and one has 1 to 5 with a switch below it. There is also a dial with a green light in it and a switch. I can not figure out how to get electric part of heating system working !

 

I am totally new to caravaning and unfortunately did not receive the manuals.

 

Thanks,

 

George.

Hi George,

 

Whilst you own a Dethleff caravan the space heaters and water heaters (as are fridges etc) are fairly common to most caravan manufacturers, this LINK takes you to a down loadable PDF file of a Swift Owners handbook which appears to have the same appliances a yours (page 6 covers the room heater).

 

I hope this will be of use.

 

GPS

 

 

 

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Hi George,

 

Whilst you own a Dethleff caravan the space heaters and water heaters (as are fridges etc) are fairly common to most caravan manufacturers, this LINK takes you to a down loadable PDF file of a Swift Owners handbook which appears to have the same appliances a yours (page 6 covers the room heater).

 

I hope this will be of use.

 

GPS

 

 

Will do that thank you for your help,

#George.

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Does anyone think blown air heating is any good. I used it last week to heat the rear bathroom of our van and it did'nt do the job.

The heater had been on for hours. Doest it take a while for the heat to travel or do any of you lag the pipes under the van.

Sorry for partly hi jacking the thread.

2018 Kia Sorento.            Elddis Capiro 554.

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Does anyone think blown air heating is any good. I used it last week to heat the rear bathroom of our van and it did'nt do the job.

The heater had been on for hours. Doest it take a while for the heat to travel or do any of you lag the pipes under the van.

Sorry for partly hi jacking the thread.

 

 

Dont worry about the hijack mate at least you got something coming out of your pipes l got nothing !

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Does anyone think blown air heating is any good. I used it last week to heat the rear bathroom of our van and it did'nt do the job.

The heater had been on for hours. Doest it take a while for the heat to travel or do any of you lag the pipes under the van.

Sorry for partly hi jacking the thread.

Its still like the Arctic in the end bathroom of our Swift Challenger 530 no matter how long the space heater is on for. I've resorted to having a camping electric heater on in the bathroom for 10-15 minutes before showering. The cabin warms up very well though with the space heater.

Now a Swift motorhome owner.

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Its still like the Arctic in the end bathroom of our Swift Challenger 530 no matter how long the space heater is on for. I've resorted to having a camping electric heater on in the bathroom for 10-15 minutes before showering. The cabin warms up very well though with the space heater.

 

try altering the outlet flaps on the vents.

even consider insulating the ducting especially that which runs outside the caravan.

if you can gain access to the rear of the fire you can also alter the air distribution flap. if not see if they can do it on service.

 

my end bathroom also stays chilly so we leave the door open which does the trick.

i also find that putting the heating on 2000kw and NO air blow warms things up better than with the blow on.

 

mat

Astra 2L SRI cdti Sports Tourer 2014

Going Go Pod micro tourer 2015

Towing at 46%

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Does anyone think blown air heating is any good. I used it last week to heat the rear bathroom of our van and it did'nt do the job.

The heater had been on for hours. Doest it take a while for the heat to travel or do any of you lag the pipes under the van.

Sorry for partly hi jacking the thread.

In a word no. I think it depends on the installation as to how good it it. In my van the rear vent (and ironically it is the only vent ducted to the outside of the the vsan) is like a blow heater. The rest are very poor. Another thing that we found is that on a lot of sites there is a marked voltage drop during the spring due to everyone using hteir heaters. The result is that the heater will not work great.

 

I think if you look at lagging the ducting it will help a little in my experience. I think that if you change the layout of the ducting it can help greatly. Look for kinks in the ducting and place an elbow joint in the area if this occurs. Also consider how many outlets are coming off of each output in the heater. The blow heater has two outlets - front and rear. I had 4 vents coming out of the front output and only one from the rear. 4 vents is too many. When i get time i will change the setup to a 3/2 split.

 

In my experience it does not matter how good you get the installation of the heating, it still wont beat an Aldi special blow heater. Not a great advert for Truma!!!

 

Regards

Lee

Please note that my opinions stated are those of an enthusiast not an expert and humble at that

 

2006 Hyundai Sante Fe towing a Coachman Vision 580/5

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Does anyone think blown air heating is any good. I used it last week to heat the rear bathroom of our van and it did'nt do the job.

The heater had been on for hours. Doest it take a while for the heat to travel or do any of you lag the pipes under the van.

Sorry for partly hi jacking the thread.

 

 

We have been out three times this year in pretty cold to freezing weather. Our caravan has the blown air heating and a vent into the very rear end of the van where the shower room is. The pipework is all internal coming under the fixed bed to route to the shower room.

Would endorse what has been said about balance of airflow. We also found that in these cold / freezing temperatures, we needed to put the heating on gas to get a nice temperature in the shower room. The electric is ok once you have got the temperature up in the van, particularly first thing in the morning when it was taking ages to get there even on the highest 2000 setting. We adjusted the outlet valves on the other bedroom and lounge vents so they were just half open, put the blower and thermostat on a high settings an and it really felt very warm and comfortable in the shower room.

I would think that any pipes that run outside the van would just loose so much heat in transit and should be lagged.

Roy & Rita

Bailey Unicorn Barcelona 1 with Power Touch 4 wheel mover (February 2012) - Mercedes E320 CDI Avantgarde Auto V6 Estate

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Does anyone think blown air heating is any good. I used it last week to heat the rear bathroom of our van and it did'nt do the job.

The heater had been on for hours. Doest it take a while for the heat to travel or do any of you lag the pipes under the van.

Sorry for partly hi jacking the thread.

 

Hi Rob,

I've simply given up with blown air heating. It may work with the shortest length of trunking but with any longer lengths I find it useless. I agree that the 'van heats up quicker by just using the heater after all it's a relatively small space to heat,

Regards,

Ian.

Bailey Unicorn Vigo and a 2017 Ford S Max and a Mercedes SLK AMG Sport 9 speed, my mid life crisis solver.

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Hi Rob,

I've simply given up with blown air heating. It may work with the shortest length of trunking but with any longer lengths I find it useless. I agree that the 'van heats up quicker by just using the heater after all it's a relatively small space to heat,

Regards,

Ian.

I agree totally. Really is a poor product when the van can be toasty warm in 10 mins (even 5!!!) from an 8. 99 blow heater from lidl/aldi/poundstretcher etc. It looks nice and is safer than the gas but thats it. It will heat the van nicely for 7-8 months of the year but looses it in winter.

 

I suppose they do refer to it as supplemental heating. Even Truma wont endorse their product as a stand alone product!! I have a blow heater that it usually set to 1000W and this will keep the van warmer in a winter than Truma.

 

Regards

Lee

Please note that my opinions stated are those of an enthusiast not an expert and humble at that

 

2006 Hyundai Sante Fe towing a Coachman Vision 580/5

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I agree totally. Really is a poor product when the van can be toasty warm in 10 mins (even 5!!!) from an 8. 99 blow heater from lidl/aldi/poundstretcher etc. It looks nice and is safer than the gas but thats it. It will heat the van nicely for 7-8 months of the year but looses it in winter.

 

I suppose they do refer to it as supplemental heating. Even Truma wont endorse their product as a stand alone product!! I have a blow heater that it usually set to 1000W and this will keep the van warmer in a winter than Truma.

 

Regards

Lee

We always have pitches with EHU so never use gas for anything apart from hob/oven - our Truma Ultraheat works just fine on electric only, now it's been fitted like Truma intended - a remote thermostat has been fitted to keep the chosen temperature constant - the underfloor section about 1 metre long has been insulated using camping mat - an additional outlet has been fitted in the washroom as the now obsolete Bailey swinging wall got in the way.

 

It copes with winter conditions in Scotland - it does need to be turned up to 2000w in sub-zero temperatures but will cope down to 0 degrees overnight on 1000w.

 

We leave the blown setting as maximum automatic during the day and minimum manual at night.

 

We have used a fan heater in the early days before I corrected the thermostat problem - a 1000/2000w fan heater is less effective than our Truma now is.

 

Having recently looked at new caravans, I did notice that modern layouts, particularly island beds, do have much more of their ducting under the floor.

 

To complain about ineffective electric heating, I think you need to look to the caravan manufacturers, not Truma.

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Basically I believe the Truma heating system should work very well, this is my take on how the Truma Ultraheat should work;

 

The ultraheat is designed to switch back on at 2degs below that set on the dial, one division on the dial is 4degs and it goes to a maximum 9 which is 32degs.

The problem of van not getting warm enough is normally caused by the postion of the temperature sensor which as standard is in the control switch, a remote sensor normally cures this problem 'if' fitted correctly? sadly 'factory/dealer fit' remotes can be equally poorly sited.

 

. ....a bit more on the subject;

 

The Ultraheat’s wattage settings are there so you can make use of low amperage hookups, 500W for 6A, 1000W for 10A and 2000W for 16A hookups, their not there to adjust the temperature of the van.

 

The Ultralheat is thermostatically controlled, therefore the wattage used will simply mean the fire is heating for shorter or longer periods. Where the problems arise then is if the temperature control is not working correctly, this is often due to the heat from the elements directly affecting the sensor itself. This means the heat brings the temperature sensor up to that set on the dial and the elements switch off, you and the vans are still cold but the sensors toasty and takes forever to cool before switching the fire back on!!

 

Due to this and particularly overnight, it's become something of an urban myth to set it at 500w or 1000w, this or that number on the dial and fan speed setting. In truth what's happening is the available heat is not capable of reaching the set temperature so never switches off, it's a useful work around but not how it should work.

The real solution is to fit a ‘remote’ temperature sensor and attach it to the gas fires sensor, if a remote is already fitted, it to will usually react better if moved to this location.

 

I would suggest as a start and during the day, the wattage selected is as high as the hook up allows and then fan speed set to maximum on ‘A’.

This provides the maximum heat if required and the fans speed will respond automatically to change in temperature, ie, fast when heat cycle is on and slow when heat is off.

After that you can fine tune to suit your own needs

 

 

Other problems concern the control board, the elements are switched on and off by relays and the contacts burn out particularly the 2kw relay.

The 12v for control also comes from this board and the transformer sometimes packs up for no apparent reason but possibly because of a mains voltage spike. Apart from no heat, you will lose the green light in the switch if this happens

Lastly and also if no heat is forth coming, there are two safety thermostats, one at least of these has a habit of self destruction which stops all heating on electric!

The control switch itself seems generally reliable but the odd one does fail.

 

The numbers on the dial represent roughly 4degs and 9 is 32degs or thereabouts, this in theory makes 6 or 7 'normal' but it's what feels comfortable that matters not the number.

 

Another problem not caused by the heater itself is long runs of un-insulated blown air pipe running outside under the floor, insulating this will improve matters considerable.

 

 

Everything installed and working as it should, there is no good reason why the electric heating should not work very well and keep an even temperature to suit your needs.

However, it must be remembered the van needs to be warmed through thoroughly before the heating is turned down, while the vans cold it will constantly drag heat from the air and this needs constant topping up or the van will always feel draughty. It's most useful then to use gas as well for the first couple of hours and if the heating is off during the day to turn it back on at the first sign of a chill.

gary1s.gif

 

Arc Systems are specialist Carver caravan product repairers, committed to providing a comprehensive service as well as spare parts for these popular heaters.

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  • 3 years later...

Hi Gary

I'm new today, so apologies if I've missed something. Can I ask why the green light on the switch would come on for a couple of seconds then go out and the heater not work? It has been fine in the past but now wont work, we see the light briefly and hear relays behind the fire then nothing.

Thank you

Angie

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Hello Angie and welcome, the problem you have is caused, either, by a faulty mains isolation switch, or, a fault on the main control board behind the fire.

 

This test depends very much on ability, but, one way to test switch is to connect live output wire to the heater, to the live input wire coming to the switch. This means removing the switch from the wall, you can though do all this with mains disconnect from van, and then hook up when ready and safe to test.

What you are doing is supplying the mains direct to the heater and not through the switches inbuilt fuse, the actual problem being the fuse holder, not the fuse itself.

If though it's a Truma made switch, it's very unlikely to be at fault, much more likely if it's 'Clipsal'

 

If this sorts the problem fit a new switch, if not it's the control board and depending on access to that, can mean removing the gas fire to get at it, far from straight forward!

gary1s.gif

 

Arc Systems are specialist Carver caravan product repairers, committed to providing a comprehensive service as well as spare parts for these popular heaters.

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Why are folks so reluctant to use the gas or show ignorance by claiming it is unsafe. .. anyway, a bit Gary missed out is that there is a directional flap between the outlets of the fan, right under the fan housing, you can use this to alter the flow to the ends of the caravan.

The switches fitted to Nord panels and the black CBE switches fitted to Elddis and some others are common fail points.

But as said use the maximun heat for the amps, let the thing heat up before trying to use the fan and anything above 2-3 on the dial will draw the air too fast to get heated enough to carry the heat to the outlets, use the A setting if you can.

 

Everything on a caravan works better on gas, electric is supplementary

Gem Caravans (Fife) Ltd.

ALL MAKES SERVICING AND REPAIRS

BAILEY TRANSIENT WARRANTY, LUNAR AND COACHMAN WARRANTY

www. gemcaravancare.co.uk 07803 922945

WORKSHOP NOW OPEN

 

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The problem with using the diverter flap is; to get best flow, the bulk of the air flow must come from the right hand outlet, that's because that's the direction the air flow is coming off the fan. Trying to get the most out of the left hand outlet is largely self defeating because the air flow is badly interrupted as the need to slow down to change direction creates turbulence.

So looking from the front, the neediest, perhaps longest run of ducting, should be connected to the right hand outlet, then the flap adjusted to give it plenty of smooth air flow.

 

Gas is 3. 2kw and electric 2kw, well Truma is actually 2. 2kw on UK mains at 240v, so although still lacking a third, it's hardly 'supplemental.' Least I've never found it cold enough for 2kw to be more than adequate, once initial warm up which may require, for speed, aid of the gas fire for a while. I would though totally agree the gas fire is perfectly safe to use under all conditions, with the proviso it's seen a regular service of course

 

Iv'e said what I think on fan operation, I see no reason not to switch it on with the heating, in fact with Carver you never got the option, it was a two speed fan, half speed for 1kw or full speed for 2kw but always both together, no one ever complained!

gary1s.gif

 

Arc Systems are specialist Carver caravan product repairers, committed to providing a comprehensive service as well as spare parts for these popular heaters.

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