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Clearance Between Shocks And Chassis


csputnik
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Hi all

 

Last weekend I finally got around to retro fitting some Alko shocks to my 2008 Lunar Quaser 525. The job was, as most people have stated before, very straightforward (I elected to jack up the Van,and remove the wheels).

 

However, with the 'van jacked up, and no load on the suspension, once fitted, the Shock just rubs against the chassis :unsure:. Once I re-fitted the wheel, and lowered it down, there is a gap of 1mm to 2mm between shock and chassis. My question is, is this right, and is this enough?

 

Slightly concerned as in 2 weeks will be going away for a well earned break.

 

Carl

2010 Ford S-Max 2. 0Tdci (Manual) tugging 2016 Swift Ace Courier

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Thanks Roger

 

Are there any differences in the Chassis used between caravan manufactures?

 

If I pushed the top of the damper away from the Chassis, the bottom then rubbed against suspension arm fixing point. I think I need to get a picture, but can't do that for the next couple of days. The gap between the suspension fixing point, and the chassis was lterally just a couple of mil greater than the width of the damper body.

 

Can someone from Alko advise please?

 

Carl

2010 Ford S-Max 2. 0Tdci (Manual) tugging 2016 Swift Ace Courier

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I fitted my shocks last weekend - you will find if you look at the bushes at the ends of the shocks, one side is longer than the the other [offset] - this applies to both ends - so to adjust spacing use one side or the other to get them to align.

ALKO say if you jack the van up, do it under the axle, if you don't, then you won't be able to check their measurements. HTH

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Thanks for the replies so far. Hopefully Alko will be along to advise as well.

 

Roger - Just checked the link you provided against the instructions I had (supplied with the shocks), and they are the same - so nothing has changed in that way. I sought of guessed the chasis would be the same, just trying to eliminate all the variances.

 

Tephi - I did notice the bushes, and believe me, there was only one way they would go. With the wheel off it was easy to try different methods before we tightened everything up, but as I said, there was only one way.

 

Will try and get a picture over the weekend (then I need to find out how to upload pictures!)

 

Carl

2010 Ford S-Max 2. 0Tdci (Manual) tugging 2016 Swift Ace Courier

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Hi all

 

Managed to get a picture. Anybody spot anything wrong?

 

Thanks

 

Carl

2010 Ford S-Max 2. 0Tdci (Manual) tugging 2016 Swift Ace Courier

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Hi all

 

Managed to get a picture. Anybody spot anything wrong?

 

Thanks

 

Carl

 

 

Hi Carl

I am watching this thread with interest I have a pair of blue ones to fit to my van I am little unsure if I am going to remove the wheels for fitting or not ( different views from different people)

Did you remove the wheels ( how long to fit???)

 

regards

 

Ian

Jaguar XF 3. 0 D tugging an Swift Challenger Sport 584

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Hi Carl

Can't see what the problem is. Don't know if this will help but here is a picture of mine taken from the front looking to the rear

 

Brian

IMG_1526_4_1.JPG

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Hi Carl

I am watching this thread with interest I have a pair of blue ones to fit to my van I am little unsure if I am going to remove the wheels for fitting or not ( different views from different people)

Did you remove the wheels ( how long to fit???)

 

regards

 

Ian

The actual fitting of the dampers is easier with caravan jacked up and wheel removed BUT that takes longer.

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Guest John KS
Hi all

 

Managed to get a picture. Anybody spot anything wrong?

 

Thanks

 

Carl

 

I have also got some to fit and having looked at yours and the instructions sent, I think I will give them to my dealer when it goes in for service in a month!!!!!!!

 

Chicken!!!!!! :o

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The bolt should go the other way, it should look like Brian's with bolt head on the inside and nut on the outside/tyre side.

Don't see how that makes any difference (or does it?) The problem is the closeness of the body of the damper against the chassis. Ideally need a photo taken from the front so you can see the whole thing. I dont think there is enough movement for the protruding bolt to foul on the chassis

Brian

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Guest John KS

If you put both pictures together Carl's are definitely the wrong way round. Just read my instructions again and the nut should be facing the wheel which means the spacer is on the side of the chassis. This would give more space.

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I'll admit to being a dunce on engineering techniques but isn't the spacer in the same place in both photos and therefore the effect is the same?????

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Guest John KS
I'll admit to being a dunce on engineering techniques but isn't the spacer in the same place in both photos and therefore the effect is the same?????

 

 

Had another look at this. I think Carl has got his facing the wrong way. It should be facing forward. Look at the two chassis pictures together. One faces to the rear and the other to the front.

 

If Carl's was changed round it wouldn't be so close to the chassis. (I Think!)

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Sorry, should have mentioned. The picture is from the back looking forward (the motor mover gets inthe way from the front). Apart from the bolts being the different way, I can't spot a difference (the spacers are the same way, and Alko don't specify which way the bolts should go).

 

I used the middle hole on the chassis, and although you can't see it, the spacer is the same way as Brians.

 

Carl

2010 Ford S-Max 2. 0Tdci (Manual) tugging 2016 Swift Ace Courier

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Guest John KS
Sorry, should have mentioned. The picture is from the back looking forward (the motor mover gets inthe way from the front). Apart from the bolts being the different way, I can't spot a difference (the spacers are the same way, and Alko don't specify which way the bolts should go).

 

I used the middle hole on the chassis, and although you can't see it, the spacer is the same way as Brians.

 

Carl

 

I see what you mean but it still doesn't look right!!!

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From memory shouldn't the swing arm brackets be angled forwards? It seems from the photo that they may be angled backwards.

 

See figure 3 in this link. alko fitting inst. The fitting can also be inside or outside thedamper according to axle.

Edited by beejay
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Guest John KS
From memory shouldn't the swing arm brackets be angled forwards? It seems from the photo that they may be angled backwards.

 

See figure 3 in this link. alko fitting inst. The fitting can also be inside or outside thedamper according to axle.

 

You would think Al-Ko could provide better drawings that the one that comes with the box. It is the same as the one above but it is not a lot of help.

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From memory shouldn't the swing arm brackets be angled forwards? It seems from the photo that they may be angled backwards.

 

There are angled forwards, just a funny camera angle!

 

Looking at the pictures again, I may have spotted something. On my shocks, the spacers at either end were the same width. On Brian's, it looks as though the top spacer is wider, therefore pushing the shock away from the chassis. Is this the case, or just down to the photo?

 

Carl

Edited by csputnik

2010 Ford S-Max 2. 0Tdci (Manual) tugging 2016 Swift Ace Courier

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are the swing arm brackets handed? looks to me that the" blue" swing arm bracket angles away from the chassis & the "red" angle towards it. the blue fixing bolt does not seem to be horizontal, but the red is if you see what i mean

 

interested in this . I have some on order & must admit that the drawings/instructions on ALKO website are not to explicit to me

Edited by TD 42
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Guest John KS
are the swing arm brackets handed? looks to me that the" blue" swing arm bracket angles away from the chassis & the "red" angle towards it. the blue fixing bolt does not seem to be horizontal, but the red is if you see what i mean

 

interested in this . I have some on order & must admit that the drawings/instructions on ALKO website are not to explicit to me

 

The fixing bolts aren't horizontal on one end.

I am getting my dealers to put mine on at the end of March. Will take some photos if this hasn't been resolved.

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