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2012 Swift Conqueror Side/Tail Lights Constantly On when not towing.


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Helo,

 

About a month ago - I was using the caravan on electric hook up, onsite and I noticed that the caravan tail light were on when i woke up in the morning but thought not much of it.

 

Anyway, the problem has persisted. When connected to electric hook up and/or 12v, regardless whether the power is on on the control panel the tail lights remain on. I have done a system shutdown on the sargent system, disconnected and charged the lesuire battrey with little success, the only thing I have not tried is connecting it to the car to see whether it might reset the system or simlar. 

 

I have searched online and found few people experiencing this issue - most people struggle with the opposite of no roadlight when towing!

 

Any guidance appreciated.

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Generally, road lighting circuits are totally isolated from the vans circuits, so they cannot interfere with each other  
I think some vans had road lights linked to an alarm, but no idea what make or models. 
Maybe worthwhile giving Sargents a call. 
 

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Road lights should only be fed electricity from the car via the appropriate pins on the connection socket. Once the caravan is disconnected from the car there should be no power to such lights. If there is there is a definite fault which given the importance of the lights in a safety sense requires immediate investigation by a qualified electrician.

I've got nothing to do on this hot afternoon

but to settle down and write you a line.

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8 hours ago, Steamdrivenandy said:

Road lights should only be fed electricity from the car via the appropriate pins on the connection socket. Once the caravan is disconnected from the car there should be no power to such lights. If there is there is a definite fault which given the importance of the lights in a safety sense requires immediate investigation by a qualified electrician.

Why a 'qualified electrician'?

We're talking 12v DC systems here - not 240v AC.

Any competent person with the appropriate equipment should be able to find the problem and sort it out.

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18 minutes ago, DottieD said:

Why a 'qualified electrician'?

We're talking 12v DC systems here - not 240v AC.

Any competent person with the appropriate equipment should be able to find the problem and sort it out.

 

I'm fairly competent in most things but something as road safety critical as faulty road lights which may be giving all sorts of incorrect information and contribute to an accident needs professional sorting.

 

I wouldn't know where to start as there should be no connection at all between the two systems and it is not a run of the mill occurrence.

 

And what's wrong with having the comfort of knowing the issue has been resolved by someone tested and competent, who deals with such things on a weekly basis, rather than an amateur who may not have the faintest idea of what they're doing?

I've got nothing to do on this hot afternoon

but to settle down and write you a line.

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3 minutes ago, Steamdrivenandy said:

 

I'm fairly competent in most things but something as road safety critical as faulty road lights which may be giving all sorts of incorrect information and contribute to an accident needs professional sorting.

 

I wouldn't know where to start as there should be no connection at all between the two systems and it is not a run of the mill occurrence.

 

And what's wrong with having the comfort of knowing the issue has been resolved by someone tested and competent, who deals with such things on a weekly basis, rather than an amateur who may not have the faintest idea of what they're doing?

As I said, you need someone who is competent. They don't need to be 'qualified'.

What I meant was that the safety issue is not related to the fact that the issue is electrical - it being a 12v system - and you don't need qualifications to safely work on this type of system.

 

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25 minutes ago, DottieD said:

 

As I said, you need someone who is competent. They don't need to be 'qualified'.

What I meant was that the safety issue is not related to the fact that the issue is electrical - it being a 12v system - and you don't need qualifications to safely work on this type of system.

 

 

I think the majority of us understood exactly what you meant ! Well I certainly did.

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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9 hours ago, Steamdrivenandy said:

Road lights should only be fed electricity from the car via the appropriate pins on the connection socket. Once the caravan is disconnected from the car there should be no power to such lights.

...

 

... unless such lights are used for alarm signalling. My 2019 Swift flashes the white, amber marker and red road lights when the alarm is armed and disarmed.

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3 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

I think the majority of us understood exactly what you meant ! Well I certainly did.

Thank you.

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Quote

The Stinger 310 Swift alarm has a harness which is designed for installation in Swift 2010-16 where the EC400 system is in place.
 

The alarm plugs into the rear of the C44 (road light fuse board). The alarm will flash the side marker lights and activate the awning light/s when alarmed/ disarmed if the van is pre wired for these functions


The alarm system (assuming it is fitted)  is likely to be the culprit.

Disconnecting the 12v supply alone is not going to reset the alarm unit…. The back-battery needs to be disconnected also (could it be a way of signalling a life expired back-up battery perhaps?)

 

One thing is certain though… fully disconnecting the alarm system will rule it in or out as the guilty party.   See these links or Talk to Sargent… 

 

https://sargentltd.co.uk/shop/product/as310_alarm_system_for_swift/103

 

https://sargentltd.co.uk/tech-support/article/AS300-310-Alarm-System/13

 

Resetting the alarm system.

Quote

The unit can be reset by firstly removing the external 12v supply by unplugging the alarm power cable (or if this is not accessible, by turning the caravan battery charger off and disconnecting the leisure battery).

Next open the base unit by removing the 2 screws on the top of the unit and then removing the cross bolt using a 10mm spanner. The black lid can now be lifted upwards and placed to one side. You will now see the backup battery mounted to an aluminium carrier plate.  

Located on this plate is a small switch, which is the battery isolation switch. Turn this to the off (O) position. 

Wait 15 seconds for the unit to reset.

Turn the battery switch back on (I position) and then reconnect the external 12v supply.

Replace the lid and fixings.

 

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1 hour ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

I think the majority of us understood exactly what you meant ! Well I certainly did.

I understood too. I am  qualified electrical engineer but like SDA I would have to be guessing about how there could be a connection between the road lighting and possibly the battery charge circuit, or caravan alarm system. 

What is needed in this instance is a knowledgeable person who is able to investigate this fault correctly as the rest of us would only be guessing, and have to start from first principles, whereas an expert may well go straight to the problem as it is perfectly possible that this is being caused by a faulty control chip in the alarm circuitry.

I agree with the advice to contact Sargent as at first sight there appears to be a fault with the alarm system 'talking' to the road lights when it should not.

Fourwinds Hurricane 31D Motorhome. Also MGTF135 1. 8i Roadster (fun) & Volvo V70 3.2Ltr LPG (everyday car)
Unless otherwise stated, my posts will be my personal thoughts and have the same standing as any other member of Caravan and Motorhome Talk.

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Thanks all,

 

I disconnected the wiring harness leading from the Sargent alarm to the rear of the road light fuses (closest connector to the near side of caravan) and indeed the road lights went off.

 

Thanks for your help - investigating the alarm will be the next job,

the remotes have never worked since purchasing so I’ll take those apart first and replace the battery.

 

 

46AD5A25-272B-452A-B609-1578F4070888.jpeg

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Bet you are pleased you didn’t get a professional in to disconnect that plug!! 

It does make me smile when people insist you need a professional to make sure your safe, have two people I know who can’ t sell their flats due to cladding issues, all designed, built and inspected by professionals and we all know how safe they are!

 

A person having a qualification doesn’t mean you are going to get a safe or even half decent job done! Might mean you can sue somebody if it all goes wrong, assuming they are still in business and you are still alive. And when was the last time you properly checked someone’s qualification(I mean checking with the regulatory body rather than asking for a bit of paper anyone can download off the internet) before you let them loose on whatever you want repairing.

 

Give me a conscientious amateur over a slapdash professional any day.

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16 minutes ago, Stagn8 said:

Bet you are pleased you didn’t get a professional in to disconnect that plug!! 

It does make me smile when people insist you need a professional to make sure your safe, have two people I know who can’ t sell their flats due to cladding issues, all designed, built and inspected by professionals and we all know how safe they are!

 

A person having a qualification doesn’t mean you are going to get a safe or even half decent job done! Might mean you can sue somebody if it all goes wrong, assuming they are still in business and you are still alive. And when was the last time you properly checked someone’s qualification(I mean checking with the regulatory body rather than asking for a bit of paper anyone can download off the internet) before you let them loose on whatever you want repairing.

 

Give me a conscientious amateur over a slapdash professional any day.

Here, here! Well said.

Edited by micktheshed
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I've met many slapdash amateurs, just a few really skilfully ones and many highly conscientious professionals. Slapdash versions of the latter rarely last long, reputation and lack of customers tends to see to that.

I've got nothing to do on this hot afternoon

but to settle down and write you a line.

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12v electrics are nothing to be frightened of, it cannot kill you like 230v can.

 

But if you don’t feel confident in dealing with it the sensible thing to do is to get someone who is competent to look at it. 

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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22 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

12v electrics are nothing to be frightened of, it cannot kill you like 230v can.

Not strictly true. A badly installed 12v circuit is fully capable of starting fire, that can kill within the confines of a caravan 

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Well of course it could!

 

But 12 volts, on its own, cannot kill you like 230 can, and that’s the point I was making (as I suspect you were very well aware of :rolleyes:

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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