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Alde 240v icon keeps going off?


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31 minutes ago, MartinJB said:

No fused spur/similar on Swift vans of that age no. However there is a button on the Sargent EC to isolate the heating system as well as usual circuit protection.

 

I agree re DVM.

Is it a Sargent EC 500 ? if so I have one knocking about and can see what the connections to the clear water heater switch are like and the amber switch,  clear not used  if a combined space / water heater is fitted  ( the ops ) the amber one is used for the combined system, if it is any help.

 

 

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Silversurf said:

Is it a Sargent EC 500 ? if so I have one knocking about and can see what the connections to the clear water heater switch are like and the amber switch,  clear not used  if a combined space / water heater is fitted  ( the ops ) the amber one is used for the combined system, if it is any help.

I think back then it was the EC 445

Cheers, Martin

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Hi thanks for that mine is the Ec 400 and yes mine does work on the combined amber switch to change the switch I would have to remove the whole unit would need to be drill the pop rivets out to gain access unless if tipped up can gain access underneath. I have changed the connection at the 240 end on the boiler so I’ll see what happens if it fails again I’ll wip the Sargent out and swop the switch as there is a spare at the side if applicable cheers Dave 

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4 minutes ago, David Jackson said:

Hi thanks for that mine is the Ec 400 and yes mine does work on the combined amber switch to change the switch I would have to remove the whole unit would need to be drill the pop rivets out to gain access unless if tipped up can gain access underneath. I have changed the connection at the 240 end on the boiler so I’ll see what happens if it fails again I’ll wip the Sargent out and swop the switch as there is a spare at the side if applicable cheers Dave 

What have you plugged Alde into Dave? That orange combined switch should now be rendered useless?

 

I presume you have wired it to a 3 pin plug?

Cheers, Martin

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1 hour ago, MartinJB said:

I think back then it was the EC 445

I had a quick look at this ......... https://tinyurl.com/ydluu6hn    .............................. and the basics look the same.

 

The water and heater switches are both double pole getting their supply directly from the relevant 10A MCB,  then on to the outlet multi plug on the back of the unit, live, earth, neutral, simple wire connections, no relay or anything.

 

So nothing basically to go wrong at the PSU end, unless poor switch contacts or poor connections at the multi-plug are the culprit and as mentioned, there is no fused spur or  other 240v heater switch in the van.

 

I don't know how detailed the wiring diagram is for that model but would expect the connection to go from the PSU, directly to the boiler or via a connection or two.

 

It will be interesting to see what is causing the 240v to drop out on that circuit.🤷‍♀️🤔

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Silversurf said:

I had a quick look at this ......... https://tinyurl.com/ydluu6hn    .............................. and the basics look the same.

 

The water and heater switches are both double pole getting their supply directly from the relevant 10A MCB,  then on to the outlet multi plug on the back of the unit, live, earth, neutral, simple wire connections, no relay or anything.

 

So nothing basically to go wrong at the PSU end, unless poor switch contacts or poor connections at the multi-plug are the culprit and as mentioned, there is no fused spur or  other 240v heater switch in the van.

 

I don't know how detailed the wiring diagram is for that model but would expect the connection to go from the PSU, directly to the boiler or via a connection or two.

 

It will be interesting to see what is causing the 240v to drop out on that circuit.🤷‍♀️🤔

 

 

 

Agree, I’m still thinking the board but the tests Dave reported can’t help me think to suspect supply 🤔 or should I say eliminate it 

 

The Alde main board currently ranks high in my list but that’s an expensive last try.

Cheers, Martin

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21 minutes ago, David Jackson said:

to change the switch I would have to remove the whole unit would need to be drill the pop rivets out to gain access unless if tipped up can gain access underneath.

Though the switches can be prised out with the PSU in situ, the 4 x Lucars won't pass through the hole, so yes, it is slide the unit out, drill the 4 rivets out of the top cover and there is no access from underneath.

 

However, as I mentioned, this scenario would be very unusual and before delving this far, the best thing to do, as Martin says, now that you have ensured the boiler plug connections are OK  is to disconnect the 240v PSU  to boiler plug, then provide the boiler with a dedicated supply via a 13A plug and a length of wire, plugged into a convenient socket in the van, or via an extension lead from the house.

 

If the boiler then works OK for a day or so, it proves 1) the boiler PCB is OK and 2) you will then need to trace the wiring from the boiler back to the PSU, in the meantime a check at the boiler end for 240v with a meter when the fault is on will give info.

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ok chaps i'll put a 13a plug on it and see what happens thank you. 

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2 hours ago, David Jackson said:

ok chaps i'll put a 13a plug on it and see what happens thank you. 

right chaps its now wired direct via a 13a plug and the sargent combined amber switch is on so i'll keep a close eye on things cheers 

 

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If it does turn out to be a PCB issue which isn't covered by warranty, would it be worth sending it to one of these guys who repair them for a fraction of the cost of a new one??

Good luck anyway, it sound way to complicated for me!

Keith

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13 hours ago, David Jackson said:

right chaps its now wired direct via a 13a plug and the sargent combined amber switch is on so i'll keep a close eye on things cheers 

 

You have bypassed the Sargent unit now (from a boiler perspective) so the amber switch makes no difference. 

Did you plug it into a caravan socket or house as Silversurf hinted?

Cheers, Martin

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It’s plugged into the van sockets  and amber switch off 

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Morning Martin having wired the boiler via 13a plug on monday evening (7pm) the icon still on  this morning so   i've wired it back up as it should be...now waiting for it to disappear and if so i'll send it to a dealership or get a mobile engineer out to it cheers dave.

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4 hours ago, David Jackson said:

Morning Martin having wired the boiler via 13a plug on monday evening (7pm) the icon still on  this morning so   i've wired it back up as it should be...now waiting for it to disappear and if so i'll send it to a dealership or get a mobile engineer out to it cheers dave.

Dave give Sargent a call, they are really helpful and I am sure they may have a suggestion IF it comes back again.

https://sargentltd.co.uk/tech-support

 

Let us know how it all ends up - good luck with it.

Cheers, Martin

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Morning Martin I did ring Sargent yesterday and I got the feeling that they thought it’s not a problem on there part I asked for new trips just in case the ones I’ve got could be sensitive but no couldn’t do that either but did say they could send a brand new complete unit but yeah I’ll let you know how things develop when engineers have seen it cheers.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi I’ve decided to have a go myself and change the switch  for a new one but I may have pulled the brown wire out by mistake it this where it needs to go or further across to the right on the buzz bar cheers Dave 7A1A4C5E-662C-439A-8011-828BE86D36A3.thumb.jpeg.8bc4b21951902ba86150cc589228f0ac.jpegave 

Edited by David Jackson
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What switch have you concluded is at fault Dave? Presumably it failed again when you reverted to original wiring? 

Cheers, Martin

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18 hours ago, MartinJB said:

What switch have you concluded is at fault Dave? Presumably it failed again when you reverted to original wiring? 

Hi ive just changed the combined amber switch £3.60 so fingers crossed

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