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Dometic 8551 fridge not working on gas


mark-w
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I should have added

 

If you are pressing the gas/12v buttons and the power source won’t select then it will be a new control panel at around £109 + vat, you can if you wish fit an auto panel instead of the manual one, from memory they are the same price.

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4 hours ago, Mutley said:

She you say you can’t change over to gas or 12v do you mean when you press the gas select button it doesn’t light up and same for 12v

 

if the symbol lights up and flashes along with the flashing triangle then for  the gas it has probably gone to gas lockout,  you should be able to press the flashing triangle for about 3 seconds, this will reset the gas fault, the 12v if you can select it but flashes will probably be due to no car with engine running attached to van.

 

 

I can’t change from 240v to anything. But when I disconnect the connector in the side hatch the igniter clicks and fires up and the fridge cools down.

but on the control panel there are no lit lights, but the gas switch flashes once every 8 seconds or so. 
mum away today but we left it on gas overnight. If it’s cold today we’ll use the fridge, if it’s not cold we’ll have to use our waeco camping  fridge in the car. Not ideal but it ensures we have cold milk for breakfast 

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Couldn't make it up. Drama continues

 

So just home, fridge has been on gas for best part of 24hrs, it's cold but not proper cold if you know what I mean. But cold enough to use over the weekend.

So we thought we'd turn it back to 240v to get it down to proper temp.

Now it won't go back to 240v.

So it's going to stay on gas now until we're done with the weekend. I know I'll have to turn the gas off while traveling but it's only a couple of hours at most.

Anyway, while turning it over to electric, I thought I'd reconnect the connector in the outside compartment. And now it runs with it connected and the gas light on the control panel doesn't flash anymore.

 

This fridge is now really doing my head in. LOL

 

 

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28 minutes ago, mark-w said:

Couldn't make it up. Drama continues

 

So just home, fridge has been on gas for best part of 24hrs, it's cold but not proper cold if you know what I mean. But cold enough to use over the weekend.

So we thought we'd turn it back to 240v to get it down to proper temp.

Now it won't go back to 240v.

So it's going to stay on gas now until we're done with the weekend. I know I'll have to turn the gas off while traveling but it's only a couple of hours at most.

Anyway, while turning it over to electric, I thought I'd reconnect the connector in the outside compartment. And now it runs with it connected and the gas light on the control panel doesn't flash anymore.

 

This fridge is now really doing my head in. LOL

 

 

I think it probably goes into a default mode when the plug is disconnected.

it will probably do the same if you disconnected the battery and 230v, the fridge sees no 12v so uses the battery back....knowing there is no 12v or 230v

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Maybe my suggestion of disconnecting to “reboot” the PCB has worked (as it has for me in the last) 

 

Do keep us updated as to whether it behaves itself from now on.  

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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9 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

Maybe my suggestion of disconnecting to “reboot” the PCB has worked (as it has for me in the last) 

 

Do keep us updated as to whether it behaves itself from now on.  

Not working properly mind.

but will keep you informed about my progress 

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Well went away and was off grid . Fridge was cool but not cold but to be fair it was cold enough to keep the Jack Daniel’s cool so all was good

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 15/04/2021 at 19:57, Mr Plodd said:

Maybe my suggestion of disconnecting to “reboot” the PCB has worked (as it has for me in the last) 

 

Do keep us updated as to whether it behaves itself from now on.  

Well it went in for a service last week, Explained the fridge issues to the manager. We both sort of came to the same conclusion. PCB was goosed. Well they called yesterday to say the PCB needs changing. So we agreed to have the work done.

They also say they've found some damp. Which is strange as they said it was old damp not recent damp. But the selling dealer have stated in emails there is no damp.

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Not sure what “old” damp could be :blink: 

 

 It’s either dry, or it’s damp. If it’s dry there is no problem and if it’s damp then it needs sorting.  I would be inclined to get your dealer to explain exactly what they mean bu old damp.,

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 15/04/2021 at 07:03, Mutley said:

I should have added

 

If you are pressing the gas/12v buttons and the power source won’t select then it will be a new control panel at around £109 + vat, you can if you wish fit an auto panel instead of the manual one, from memory they are the same price.

Van is still at service centre awaiting parts. I may have clipped the gate on the way out of storage and ever so slightly marked the awning rail on the offside. So not important as we fix awning to the door side. But parts are on order, insurance coughing up. So all good.

Anyway, the repair place can't get the PCB for the fridge. I've found a place that repairs PCB's but they say they have a bad success rate with our model. 

I can find the control panel on ebay and the version with the extra button.  Currently I have the on'off button, 240v/Gas/12v. There is a model of panel out there with an A button which is auto. But is this a direct swap? And what feature does it offer to make it a worthwhile swap?

 

@Mutley Where are you getting the PCB/control panel for £109 +VAT. I can't find it anywhere near that price

Edited by mark-w
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On 15/04/2021 at 07:03, Mutley said:

I should have added

 

If you are pressing the gas/12v buttons and the power source won’t select then it will be a new control panel at around £109 + vat, you can if you wish fit an auto panel instead of the manual one, from memory they are the same price.

What is the product number of the fridge please

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17 minutes ago, mark-w said:

I can find the control panel on ebay and the version with the extra button.  Currently I have the on'off button, 240v/Gas/12v. There is a model of panel out there with an A button which is auto. But is this a direct swap? And what feature does it offer to make it a worthwhile swap?

As far as I'm aware the auto feature allows the fridge to automatically switch to an available power source when the one currently in use becomes unavailable without you having to manually select using the buttons. 

Life is not a rehearsal . . .:)

Porsche Cayenne S Diesel & Knaus StarClass 695. Previously Audi S4 Avant & Elddis Super Sirocco

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17 hours ago, Mutley said:

What is the product number of the fridge please

 

Product number is 00921078030

16 hours ago, KnausCol said:

As far as I'm aware the auto feature allows the fridge to automatically switch to an available power source when the one currently in use becomes unavailable without you having to manually select using the buttons. 

But is it a plug and play option?

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The Dometic 8551 fridge doesn't have auto energy selection; the 8555 does. Whether you can fit a control panel with the 'A' button from an 8555 to an 8551 is probably a question best addressed to Dometic. Dometic help starts here.

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7 hours ago, mark-w said:

 

Product number is 00921078030

But is it a plug and play option?

Yes they are plug and play.

 

It makes no difference between the manual and auto the panel just tells the brick what it is.

 

it is currently out of stock with Dometic, this would explain why there is a long lead time

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13 hours ago, Mutley said:

Yes they are plug and play.

 

It makes no difference between the manual and auto the panel just tells the brick what it is.

 

it is currently out of stock with Dometic, this would explain why there is a long lead time

I'll get my PCB sent off to see if they can repair it. But they said they don't have a good success rate with this PCB.

If they can't repair it, I'll just refit it and run on gas for our next trip out.

I'll look into purchasing the control panel for the version with auto on it.

If it's plug and play and is available then it should be good.

Could just do without this hassle of this

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Never had these sort of problems when it was just a three way mechanical switch  with no electronics (like PCB’s) to go wrong did we? 

 

I wonder if the issue you are having trying to get a PCB is due to the shortage of computer chips? How long before the problem starts manifesting itself in domestic appliances? Fridges, freezers, Washing machines, dishwashers, TV’s, satellite receivers, radios, Alexa’s, Etc all need microchips these days. 

Just sayin! 

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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8 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

Never had these sort of problems when it was just a three way mechanical switch  with no electronics (like PCB’s) to go wrong did we? 

 

I wonder if the issue you are having trying to get a PCB is due to the shortage of computer chips? How long before the problem starts manifesting itself in domestic appliances? Fridges, freezers, Washing machines, dishwashers, TV’s, satellite receivers, radios, Alexa’s, Etc all need microchips these days. 

Just sayin! 

It's a complete pain.

But I hope you're wrong and the chip shortage will resolve itself soon. Life would be a complete pain if all our white goods became redundant due to chip failure.

But saying that, our home dishwasher lives on. We purchased it, used it for 2 years, moved house so it went into storage for 4 years, moved again and was refitted, used for another 6 years. Moved again, didn't require it so gave it to a friend, she's used it for 3 years. Had a kitchen refit and passed it on. So for a dishwasher to last for so long, I thought was quite impressive.

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Well you have just given it the kiss of death now ! 

 

To be fair domestic stuff does seem to last much much longer than caravan stuff does. Vibration must play a part. 

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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A brief summary of what you must do to operate on gas:

(You do not need the AA batteries).

1. Leisure battery fitted and charged.

2. Black isolator button on control panel pushed in.

3. Gas bottle turned on.

4. Gas tap on manifold under kitchen turned on.

(try a gas hob burner to confirm you have gas in the system and remember it takes a few minutes to circulate that far, and 12v to spark it)

5. Switch fridge on 240V.

Select gas - press and hold for a mo.

(There is no pilot flame as ignition is electronic. You may not hear anything as the sparking is quite quiet)

6. Gas source light will stay on.

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27 minutes ago, Ern said:

A brief summary of what you must do to operate on gas:

(You do not need the AA batteries).

1. Leisure battery fitted and charged.

2. Black isolator button on control panel pushed in.

3. Gas bottle turned on.

4. Gas tap on manifold under kitchen turned on.

(try a gas hob burner to confirm you have gas in the system and remember it takes a few minutes to circulate that far, and 12v to spark it)

5. Switch fridge on 240V.

Select gas - press and hold for a mo.

(There is no pilot flame as ignition is electronic. You may not hear anything as the sparking is quite quiet)

6. Gas source light will stay on.

Thank you for taking the time to respond. I've managed to get the gas to work and now it's the 240 that doesn't. I've had a quick search on here and will follow a fault finding process to prove if it's the fridge control panel or the feed.

Best get it back from the service yard and start the process.

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1 hour ago, Mr Plodd said:

Never had these sort of problems when it was just a three way mechanical switch  with no electronics (like PCB’s) to go wrong did we? 

 

I wonder if the issue you are having trying to get a PCB is due to the shortage of computer chips? How long before the problem starts manifesting itself in domestic appliances? Fridges, freezers, Washing machines, dishwashers, TV’s, satellite receivers, radios, Alexa’s, Etc all need microchips these days. 

Just sayin! 

:goodpost:

 

How many, me included, would prefer a simple switch or knobs for say the fridge and many other things, as opposed to a pcb and touch screen seen on many items these days, some of which present a multitude of options and actions, the majority of which the owner never knew existed, who reads all the way through a manual, or has no need for, hold up your hand anyone who uses every function on a modern microwave, me neither. :rolleyes:

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4 minutes ago, mark-w said:

Thank you for taking the time to respond. I've managed to get the gas to work and now it's the 240 that doesn't. I've had a quick search on here and will follow a fault finding process to prove if it's the fridge control panel or the feed.

Best get it back from the service yard and start the process.

The push buttons have to be pressed and hold for a mo. Possibly even pushed more than once. If your fridge is one of the later auto change types (ours isn't) the selecting technique it may be slightly different to ours.

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1 minute ago, Ern said:

The push buttons have to be pressed and hold for a mo. Possibly even pushed more than once. If your fridge is one of the later auto change types (ours isn't) the selecting technique it may be slightly different to ours.

Been through all sorts of methods of pressing buttons, together, after each other quickly, after each other slowly.

We sent the van for a service, and they've come back with the same conclusion as us. The PCB, but I think I need to confirm the 240 feed to the fridge is good as well. Don't fancy spending out close to £200 for a new PCB when it's a simple fault

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Just had a call from the PCB repair company. They've looked at my PCB and can't see any issues. But they also said there isn't any component on the board that is 240v related.

So apart from the small PCB behind the buttons does anyone know if there is another PCB board somewhere? I had a quick look but couldn't see 1. Will have to trace the power cables from distribution box and see where they lead me.

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