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Hi having been quoted near £300 for a fluid change for my alde heating system by my local dealer I believe I can do this my self firstly where would I find the drain plug on my 2013 swift conqueror 570 and what would be the best type of fluid to use to replace existing fluid

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firstly, find the list of approved Alde service engineers, on the Alde web site, and then give them a call. I am sure you will find much cheaper. 
If your still determined to DIY, the drain point is under the floor somewhere. It will be close to the wall. Often near wheel arch , or at rear panel. 
It’s best to use the Alde spec fluid. I think it’s G13. You need the 50/50 diluted mix. Readily available from several outlets

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The link below might help

 

HERE

On my Swift Challenger 480 the drain plug is a small pipe with a brass bung held by a spring clip. It protudes about 2 cm and is located under the washroom floor on the off side of the caravan.

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Its not a straight forward procedure you will need two pumps and  you need to pump the old fluid out flush the system and pump in the pink Alde fluid and bleed as required . I would leave it to the dealer or approved NCC engineer. 

Edited by David55
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8 hours ago, BOAC said:

The link below might help

 

HERE

On my Swift Challenger 480 the drain plug is a small pipe with a brass bung held by a spring clip. It protudes about 2 cm and is located under the washroom floor on the off side of the caravan.

From experience and previous reports, many Swift models have the drain plug located close to the nearside wheel arch......right above the motor mover if fitted! 🤬

Edited by Legal Eagle
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52 minutes ago, David55 said:

Its not a straight forward procedure you will need two pumps and  you need to pump the old fluid out flush the system and pump in the pink Alde fluid and bleed as required . I would leave it to the dealer or approved NCC engineer. 

 

 

Permit me to differ.

 

I drained my system, then removed the reservoir tank leaving the return pipes exposed. Then I used a wet and dry vacuum to suck the fluid from the system. I then refitted the reservoir tank and refilled the system. Job done.

 

Since G13 is approved and compatible with Alde anti freeze and MUCH cheaper than the genuine vastly expensive Alde fluid the whole job cost me about £40.

 

Of course, you have to probably buy a wet and dry vacuum for about £50 but even taking this into consideration my method cost £90 give or take, less expensive  and less troublesome than taking it to a dealer and being charged - what was it? - 300 quid. :o

 

Funnily enough, the system did not require much bleeding either.

 

Anyway, the choice is yours ;)

 

 

 

Edited by BOAC
Bleeding point added
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I agree with BOAC, it is not a difficult job to do.  Find the drain point and all of the bleed valves.  Remove the pump from the header tank, then open drain point (with a container to catch the fluid).  When flow stops, open all bleed valves and allow more fluid to drain.  Raise all corner steadies and tilt the van forwards as far as you can. After a few minutes, tilt the van backwards as far as you can.  Repeat the tilting operation to allow more fluid to escape.  When flow has stopped, level the van, close the drain point, close bleed valves and fill header tank with diluted fluid.  My van came with blue fluid (2 year) so I replace with new blue fluid about every 3 years.  When the header tank is full, open each bleed valve in turn to remove any air (topping up the header tank as required).  When all radiators have been bled, replace the pump and run the pump for a few minutes then repeat the radiator bleeding, topping up if necessary.  Take your time, do not rush the job.  That is all I do and I have never had any problem with the system.

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I replaced mine on a coachman, as above brass stopper removed from rubber hose rear offside corner under van.

Remove header tank, i purchased 12v pump on ebay about £20, pumped into container then pumped in new G13  pink fluid (halfords) about £40.

Bleed system  from bathroom rad and front valve behind bench seat (very little air)  job done.       

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I think that Alde charge around £200 to do it.    There are also some YouTube videos from Alde that might be helpful.  These are posted as king of comfort might be worth a look.  
Finally and this won’t apply to the OP, my Alde system on our Hymer is different.  It doesn’t have an external drain point which is why I took it to Alde to be done.  

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Buy the fluid from Euro car parts G13+.

 

I removed the header tank and used a small hand pump, under £10, to pump water through to flush then pumped the new fluid in, took about an hour but most of that time was getting adapters to fit the pipes.

 

Ian

2018 Range Rover Sport AB,  2015 Buccaneer Cruiser.

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If you replace the fluid yourselves at the specified intervals recommended by your van manufacturer / Alde & if you are unfortunate enough to have an issue with your heating system which requires a warranty repair then you have no proof that your fluid was replaced prior to the incident occurring possibly invalidating any warranty you have left on the Alde system. Maybe more beneficial to get the fluid replaced by a approved professional with a receipt confirming this at least until your Alde warranty expires. Alde systems are generally bullet proof but that's the risk you take by saving money in the short term & doing it yourself.

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Production of the antifreeze purchase receipt would be good evidence for proof.

However, I would suggest that as the Alde system comes with a 2 year warranty and new caravans now come with the 5 year life G13 antifreeze, the warranty will expire 3 years before the fluid needs changing. If the caravan came, from new, with the 2 year life antifreeze a warranty claim would more likely arise before it needed changing and both will expire at the same time!

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Hi guys thanks for all your suggestions much appreciated 

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When an Alde approved service centre does the job a special sticker with date and service centre details, is placed on the boiler and a receipt issued.

The system does not need draining, if the Alde equipment is used to do the exchange, then fluid is pumped in until the old fluid is removed. The discharge fluid changes colour to the new fluid colour. 

The Alde equipment has three way valves, special pumps and hoses.

The cost does vary but £200 seems about average and it will last five years. However new vans come with five year fluid.

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Fluid change is really easy will not cost more than about £60 including buying a pump. Purchase 7L of G40 and 7L of de ionised water, do not drain the system at the drain plug, do a search on youtube to see how Alde do it, disconnect the header tank, connect your pump to the feed side place the other suction side of the pump in a container of 50/50 mix, return pipe for header tank pipe into an empty container, pump 13 L through or if you are changing the colour of the fluid pump through until a good colour change comes through, re fit header tank, top up and run the pump for a few minutes, check if it requires bleeding then fire it up. 570 requires about 12L but if you put 13L through you know its done. No need to flush the system, all all that does is introduce plain water into the system G40 is back compatible with the original fluid.

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1 hour ago, Maddog Pete said:

Hi guys thanks for all your suggestions much appreciated 

There's a good video on youtube that covers this and the guy used this stuff (£3.34 a litre)

https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/triple-qx-purple-antifreeze-coolant-g13-1ltr-523770492 

You can buy the 5 litre container from them but it works out more expensive than 5 one litre bottles

PS if the link does not work just go to the carparts for less website and search for g13

Edited by Aitch
link flakey
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UWhen I did mine, I didn’t touch the drain plug because I considered that would just let in air.

I used a turkey baster to remove sufficient fluid from the header tank to enable the pipe clips to be loosened and the header tank removed without spilling fluid.

Then a hose connected to each pipe, one with a 12v pump and one to a waste bucket.  Radiator tails were perfect for connecting hoses to the pipes.

First pumped several buckets full of tap water through until the discharge into the waste bucket ran clear, and then mixed the G13++ antifreeze with distilled water and ran that through until the discharge was the ‘red’ colour. 

Replaced the header tank and topped it up and ran the system.

Only a very tiny amount of air came out of the bathroom radiator.

Edited by hp100425ev
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