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Wiring Diagram


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Recently following a blowout on my 2010 Pegasus 534 I removed the wheel and noticed that the disintegrating tyre had penetrated the plastic inner wheel arch and chewed at the wiring loom that Bailey's designers had chosen to locate in this venerable position.

 

At home I removed the spare to ascertain the damage and repair same. I rang Bailey's Tech Department who said they don't do wiring diagrams and gave me the number of their partners in Halifax BCA Ltd who supply the complete looms. 

 

Had a telephone conversation with BCA who said they would not give me any information appertaining  my problem due to Company Policy and Data protection, although it was Bailey had given me their contact details.

 

So Forum Members, I have a bunch of chewed wires, some are recognisable as the 12 volt supply to the female cigar lighter and the remains of the aerial Co-ax cable. I also have a bunch of other chewed wires and wonder what they are ? so if anyone out there actually has a wiring diagram I would be appreciated if you could Email it to me

Mod edit : email address removed - please use our PM system. 

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Admin usually advise members not to display their email address on the forum but to use the forums messaging system

To edit a post, click on the three dots in the top right corner

Edited by Jaydug

Citroen C5-X7 Tourer+Avondale Rialto 480/2
https://jondogoescaravanning.com

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What wiring diagrams are publicly available are in your service handbook. The one linked to in an earlier post is MY 2012 (page 2 bottom rhs) Pegasus 2 https://www.baileyofbristol.co.uk/owners-manuals-and-service-handbooks/ has the 2010 P 1 manuals.

 

But caravan wiring is pretty simple/basic so it should be easy enough to sort ou by tracing both directions.

Mains from PDU to appliances / sockets is typically 3-core bn/bu/gn-y in a white sheath 1.5 sq mm.  Main inlet is orange sheathed  and likely to be 2.5 sq mm.  You'd be wise to replace the whole length rather than splice a repair to mains cabling.

Similarly, the coax cable is best replaced to ensure integrity of the screening as every joint is a weak point for interference.

 

Road lights are a possible, as will be 12V lights, sockets and feeds to appliances.  Room heater fire or water heater control cables another possibility.

2012 Bailey Pegasus 2 Rimini towed by 2019 Ford Galaxy Titanium X, 2.0 EcoBlue, 8 speed auto.

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55 minutes ago, Drongo said:

 

Had a telephone conversation with BCA who said they would not give me any information appertaining  my problem due to Company Policy and Data protection, although it was Bailey had given me their contact details.

 

 

What a ridiculous statement! 

 

As to sorting your problem out it’s simply a case of finding each end of a same colour wire and joining them up by inserting a short length of wire. Do them one at a time though!! (And DONT use “Scotch Block” type connectors, use Male and female spade, or bullet ones)  Once you done them all (and checked everything works) wrap the repaired section in insulating tape. Job done. 

Edited by Mr Plodd

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

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12 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

What a ridiculous statement! 

 

As to sorting your problem out it’s simply a case of finding each end of a same colour wire and joining them up by inserting a short length of wire. Do them one at a time though!! (And DONT use “Scotch Block” type connectors, use Male and female spade, or bullet ones)  Once you done them all (and checked everything works) wrap the repaired section in insulating tape. Job done. 

 

:goodpost: Insulated type if you can get them, like these:

 

 

image.png.d41aa037bdbad146935a4a7d0a5b0db2.png

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The correct terminals to join wires depends on the cables concerned... cross-sectional area (to big/little for automotive crimps) current and voltage ratings... etc.,.

 

I suspect that a flailing steel tyre reinforcement has done more than just cut the wires cleanly enough to use butt crimp, solder splices or similar joints and a foot or so of cable will be needing inserting to make good... So not necessarily the simplest of jobs.  But that's pure guesswork on my part, until the OP posts pictures of the damaged cables. 

2012 Bailey Pegasus 2 Rimini towed by 2019 Ford Galaxy Titanium X, 2.0 EcoBlue, 8 speed auto.

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3 minutes ago, Rodders53 said:

The correct terminals to join wires depends on the cables concerned... cross-sectional area (to big/little for automotive crimps) current and voltage ratings... etc.,.

 

I suspect that a flailing steel tyre reinforcement has done more than just cut the wires cleanly enough to use butt crimp, solder splices or similar joints and a foot or so of cable will be needing inserting to make good... So not necessarily the simplest of jobs.  But that's pure guesswork on my part, until the OP posts pictures of the damaged cables. 

Not so much difficult but tedious, colour coding and matching existing cables is simple enough.

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6 minutes ago, Rodders53 said:

The correct terminals to join wires depends on the cables concerned... cross-sectional area (to big/little for automotive crimps) current and voltage ratings... etc.,.

 

I suspect that a flailing steel tyre reinforcement has done more than just cut the wires cleanly enough to use butt crimp, solder splices or similar joints and a foot or so of cable will be needing inserting to make good... So not necessarily the simplest of jobs.  But that's pure guesswork on my part, until the OP posts pictures of the damaged cables. 

 

The terminals are available in different sizes, and colour coded red ( 0.5 to 1.5mm) , Blue ( 1.5 to 2.5mm)  and yellow ( 2.5 to 6mm) which should cover all sizes in the loom. The suggestions are to use additional lengths for the damaged pieces, so two connections needed, one either end

Edited by Dave Capiro owner
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8 minutes ago, Rodders53 said:

 

I suspect that a flailing steel tyre reinforcement has done more than just cut the wires cleanly enough to use butt crimp, solder splices or similar joints and a foot or so of cable will be needing inserting to make good... 

 

 

48 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

As to sorting your problem out it’s simply a case of finding each end of a same colour wire and joining them up by inserting a short length of wire. 

 

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

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15 minutes ago, Rodders53 said:

I suspect that a flailing steel tyre reinforcement has done more than just cut the wires cleanly enough to use butt crimp, solder splices or similar joints and a foot or so of cable will be needing inserting to make good... So not necessarily the simplest of jobs.  But that's pure guesswork on my part, until the OP posts pictures of the damaged cables. 

The OP posted this on the Bailey Facebook group

 

 

 

 

wire.jpg

Looking at the picture again, it looks like the motor mover has copped some of it too, or could have been rubbing on the tyre? Could that have been the cause of the blowout?

Edited by Joe1002
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It's easy enough for some of us here to select the correct wire sizes to repair...

Don't assume others have that capability and ready access to suitable bits...

Looking at that damage it's simple enough but not something I'd be rushing to do in the cold and damp.

 

Mover grit roller needs replacing too (been flailed to the base metal).

 

Would all this be covered by caravan insurance (except the tyre, of course)?

2012 Bailey Pegasus 2 Rimini towed by 2019 Ford Galaxy Titanium X, 2.0 EcoBlue, 8 speed auto.

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Solder and heat shrink is the way forward. Takes some practice but it gives a near perfect continuity and looks great. well apart from the co ax that needs a joiner. 

Edited by Beebs
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<p>Live for the weekend!!!!

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I use solder and shrink on a regular basis. It gives electrical and mechanical strength. Only way to go. 

Graham

 

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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Thanks Guys,  It is not an easy one. If I could find the corresponding other ends then all would be simple, but it isn't.  i am sure that the fire will have to come out and that's a job for the qualified. That's why a wiring diagram would have been a great help, but as no one in Christendom has one and those who do won't share due to "Data Protection" and Company Policy.

 As it's Wintertime and weather is getting worse not better then this outside job is one that I did not want.

20201101_150230.jpg

20201101_142429.jpg

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I struggle to see what benefit you perceive you will get by having a wiring diagram. It won’t tell you where each cable is routed, it’s just a schematic.  Have a look at the one below for a campervan. It shows how everything is connected but no indication at all as to the actual routing of the wiring. 

 

Wiring diagram or not someone is still going to need to find both ends of any broken wires! 

 

 

 

 

6D0385BA-D1AC-4665-93D5-17C76106EAEF.jpeg

Edited by Mr Plodd

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

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In the above photos it looks as if the wires are 12 volt ones and not mains electric but this still needs to be confirmed. In the wiring diagram for our caravan in its handbook, the colours of the wires are shown but not the size of them. For the 12 volt system, the white ones on the diagram are all 12 volt negative and the coloured ones 12 volt positive. For the road lights they follow the same colours as in the 13 pin socket.

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A TPMS would probably have alerted the driver to a pressure loss long before the tyre self destructed!! 

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

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