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I need a new drill for the caravan steadies.


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15 minutes ago, Eddie said:

Why?????

 

Torque” about a daft question!

Because its getting a “bit” boring??  

And we have “drilled” down to the important stuff

so can now “chuck” it away?? ;)

 

 

Edited by Mr Plodd

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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No sorry. Out of chatter comes entertainment and the occasional gem of information so this thread is serving two useful purposes, besides, you don't have to read it.

The OP Paul, has had a lot of helpful informed replies , so should be able to make an informed choice to what to buy.....thats all I am saying....How many more years do you want this this thread to co

It’s not about saving minutes for me, arthritis in my elbows, shoulders, back and legs prevents me from bending over for any length of time, also I cannot hold and turn the manual brace.   W

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Why can't the manual windings go get there own thread instead of crashing this one :D

5 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

Torque” about a daft question!

Because its getting a “bit” boring??  

And we have “drilled” down to the important stuff

so can now “chuck” it away?? ;)

 

 

Wind up merchant B)

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2 hours ago, Mr Plodd said:

because of the gearing involved increases torque at the bit end compared to that felt at the handle. 

Newton's Third Law of Physics - for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.

 

So the torque reaction  at your hand must equal the torque at the screw.

 

As a screw is being run in the torque is reasonably small so no large reaction is felt at the hand.

 

However when the screw or bolt is tight and the clamping effect is at its max, the torque then increases until the drill stalls, or slips at a pre selected torque setting, the fastening snaps, the bit in the case of a screwdriver cams out,  or the drill whips the drill out of your hand, in other words you are unable to resist the torque being applied at the fastening.

Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.  :rolleyes:

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So what’s the purpose of a gearbox? 

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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1 hour ago, Mr Plodd said:

So what’s the purpose of a gearbox? 

It can increase the torque but only if it can be applied usefully.  If you car is on ice then extra torque probably won't help.  Similarly, it does not matter how much torque your drill provides if you cannot hold it.

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2 hours ago, gtepete said:

Hopefully the OP has all the info he needs.....close thread?

 

No sorry. Out of chatter comes entertainment and the occasional gem of information so this thread is serving two useful purposes, besides, you don't have to read it. :)

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Please please please don't ever use a power drill for road wheel nuts, if it has enough torque to break the nut then it has enough torque to do some serious damage to your hands and wrists if the nut binds, whereas an impact gun will simply enter hammer mode. 

 

There is a reason, a very good reason why professionals use impact guns, be they pneumatic or battery powered and not drills despite being much more expensive. 

 

I too use a De Walt impact gun, have been doing so for years. Whenever we go away it always goes in my tool bag. If ever I need to change a wheel at the roadside the quicker it gets done the sooner I am out of danger. I've never had an issue with over doing the steadies, just let go of the trigger when the steady hits the floor, it's not tricky. 

 

 

Mercedes E350 CDi AMG Cabriolet, Lunar Freelander 640EW Twin Axle @1700kg

 

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14 hours ago, Eddie said:

Why?????

The OP Paul, has had a lot of helpful informed replies , so should be able to make an informed choice to what to buy.....thats all I am saying....How many more years do you want this this thread to continue on for then.....?

Edited by gtepete
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14 hours ago, Silversurf said:

Newton's Third Law of Physics - for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.

 

So the torque reaction  at your hand must equal the torque at the screw.

 

As a screw is being run in the torque is reasonably small so no large reaction is felt at the hand.

 

However when the screw or bolt is tight and the clamping effect is at its max, the torque then increases until the drill stalls, or slips at a pre selected torque setting, the fastening snaps, the bit in the case of a screwdriver cams out,  or the drill whips the drill out of your hand, in other words you are unable to resist the torque being applied at the fastening.

Note that you also have a lever effect at the drill end as your hand is some distance from the centre of rotation which will increase the speed of movement applied to your hand/wrist.

Life is not a rehearsal . . .:)

Porsche Cayenne S Diesel & Knaus StarClass 695. Previously Audi S4 Avant & Elddis Super Sirocco

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30 minutes ago, gtepete said:

The OP Paul, has had a lot of helpful informed replies , so should be able to make an informed choice to what to buy.....thats all I am saying....How many more years do you want this this thread to continue on for then.....?

You really aren’t compelled to look at those threads you personally have no ongoing interest in because you believe they have fully served their purpose / run their course / outlived their usefulness etc.

 

 

Just try not clicking on it and leave it to those who do have an interest in it. 

 

 

Edited by ReggiePerrin
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17 minutes ago, KnausCol said:

Note that you also have a lever effect at the drill end as your hand is some distance from the centre of rotation which will increase the speed of movement applied to your hand/wrist.

 

...and at the same time decrease the strength of that movement.

Sam :beardy:   RR Sport HSE Dynamic towing Swift Elegance Grande 845

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I have a Bosch drill with a lithium battery which is a nice piece of kit. I was thinking of taking it with me in the van - but no. There are three positions two of which a relevent. One is an adjustable torque setting for screws and another for drilling. I assumed the torque setting for drilling would also apply but it doesn't, it bypasses the adjustable torque capability and uses the direct drive. Near unscrewed my wrist.:angry:

 

I go to Aldi tomorrow so maybe I will find a simple Lithium drill for the purpose.

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14 minutes ago, BOAC said:

I have a Bosch drill with a lithium battery which is a nice piece of kit. I was thinking of taking it with me in the van - but no. There are three positions two of which a relevent. One is an adjustable torque setting for screws and another for drilling. I assumed the torque setting for drilling would also apply but it doesn't, it bypasses the adjustable torque capability and uses the direct drive. Near unscrewed my wrist.:angry:

 

I go to Aldi tomorrow so maybe I will find a simple Lithium drill for the purpose.

 

You could use the drill in screwdriver mode which enables you to use the torque feature, it will just be a little slower winding that's all.

 

I've just checked both my Bosch drills a GSR 1800-LI and PSB 18 LI-2 and the torque setting can be used on drilling or screw-driving, you haven't by any chance turned the adjustment ring to hammer-drill setting have you ?

Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.  :rolleyes:

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12 minutes ago, Silversurf said:

 

 

 

I've just checked both my Bosch drills a GSR 1800-LI and PSB 18 LI-2 and the torque setting can be used on drilling or screw-driving, you haven't by any chance turned the adjustment ring to hammer-drill setting have you ?

 

H'mmm. Thanks. I will check that out. However, just to be on the safe side I think I will buy another drill that doesn't have a direct drive position because knowing Petal she might - somehow - just select it while screwing the legs. I don't want to disable my main minion and make my job harder when setting up.:D

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This thread may now have achieved the green revolution's ultimate goal in that it's indefinitely self sustaining!

 

Speaking of revolutions, a drill gearbox (just like a car gearbox) does indeed give you a degree of torque multiplication.

 

The torque in the spinning drill motor usually develops less torque than is available at the pointy end (unless it is 1:1 direct drive).

However, this is not some dark magic making Sir Isaac spin in his grave - there is always a price to pay. Oh yes.

High speed motor with lower torque uses gearing to produce a lower speed output with higher torque.

The bigger the difference in speed, the greater the torque multiplication. That's why a low gear has more torque - but is slower. It all balances out in the end.

 

What you feel at the handle of the drill is controlled by the same rules.

If it's going slowly the wrist "feedback" will be less obvious and easily dealt with, because it's slow, but will actually have higher torque.

If it's going fast the wrist "feedback" will actually have less torque, but it's faster and can catch you off guard and so can be nasty. 

 

This is where I should brag about my macho drill pumping out 240Nm of torque, with its supplied 400mm side handle to help reduce the risk of injury. This relates to the leverage effect also mentioned in this thread - if the handle is twice as long the force felt will be halved. This one is set to a very low torque when I spin down those pesky steadies.

One benefit of a decent drill is plenty of torque settings which operate consistently and reliably.

So in my case the drill is set to "4" and that gives ideal ground contact pressure. Job done - about 5 seconds per steady.

 

So, Mr Plodd, Silversurf and KnausCol are all kind of right according to my memory of mechanics...........

 

So, when I come back on here I expect to see at least a page full of responses :D

Edited by Ukzero
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19 hours ago, gtepete said:

Hopefully the OP has all the info he needs.....close thread?

 

4 hours ago, gtepete said:

The OP Paul, has had a lot of helpful informed replies , so should be able to make an informed choice to what to buy.....thats all I am saying....How many more years do you want this this thread to continue on for then.....?

Just wondering how/when you achieved your full moderator status ?:rolleyes:

Easy answer, don't read it.... 

Edited by scotsstag

Defender 90  cruising along with a Coachman Laser 640/4.  :)

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EEEEEE by gum. Theres more to drills than I ever thought. This is an interesting thread and we don't want to close it down and chuck it all away. Theres a lot of torque on here with handy information. I hope that by hammering home several bits that the majority of members now know the drill - but there is lots more to ponder which will become apparent in future posts no doubt.

 

I know its off the subject a bit, but what's your most memorable tragic effort in trying to match a screw to a rawlplug to a hole?

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Think gtepete is chewing on the bit.
Needs to unwind I think 

Lunar Solaris 1 Limited Edition 2007 Hopefully Behind A

BMW 520D MSport Touring. ...

 

***** Jack of all Trades. ... Master of None *****

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3 minutes ago, JanandJay said:

Think gtepete is chewing on the bit.
Needs to unwind I think 

Steady now! Don't get all jacked up about it! Maybe someone should put their foot down?

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23 minutes ago, Lost in the wilderness said:

Is this a wind up

Not really, I saw that the thread was winding down a bit and thought I'd level it off!

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1 hour ago, Stevan said:

Not really, I saw that the thread was winding down a bit and thought I'd level it off!

Now that's put the ki'bosch' on it

Edited by SilverSurfer
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Just noticed in Caravan Club Mag arrived this week, a purpose made wrench for ‘stabiliser legs’. Applies the right tension. 50% discount for December at £63.....

Not wishing to extend the thread...but 😉

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