Jump to content

Discovery 4 vs Q7...???


Recommended Posts

All the current Q7 models are on air. I’ve not driven one, but typically air cars take about 15 seconds or so from access height to full off-road height. 
 

1 hour ago, Higgy said:

Limecc how long should it take to raise the suspension? Is there a quick way of telling if a vehicle has Air suspension fitted as sometimes it’s not listed in an advert. 


On earlier ones there’s not a lot in the way of visual clues, from memory, the adaptive suspension is controlled through the touchscreen, unlike the D4. There is a switch in the boot on the right side to lower the car for loading, which is the only thing I can think of that might show up in pics on an advert. 
 

Other than that, it’s ask the dealer time, and hope they actually know....

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Personally I would view the consumption of 1/2 litre of oil over 3000 miles as being very high, bordering on excessive!    My car (37K miles) never needs the oil  topping up between services

I would compare the relative reliability of the two and then make a decision!    I have never towed with a Q7 or a Disco but I have driven both. If I could afford the running costs I would b

....and perhaps Mr Plodd start a new thread for this discussion over the consumption of oil in modern cars as this is about Audi Q7 (those awful oil burning monsters:)

Posted Images

34 minutes ago, Fireman Iain said:

On earlier ones there’s not a lot in the way of visual clues, from memory, the adaptive suspension is controlled through the touchscreen, unlike the D4. There is a switch in the boot on the right side to lower the car for loading, which is the only thing I can think of that might show up in pics on an advert. 

As above Higgy. You would have to ask the seller if it has air suspension but if you are viewing it in person just look behind a wheel for coil springs, the display menu under 'car' or the suspension lowering button for easy boot loading (and optional towbar deployment button) which only works if all the doors are closed and the tailgate is up. Located on the drivers side nearest the tail light.

Q7SuspensionTowbarButtons.jpg

Q7Display.jpg

Q7centreConsole.jpg

Edited by limecc
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you do buy a Q7 I will post you the links to upgrade your sat nav to 2019 maps for free.

 

Also it's possible to get the active traffic data for free nowadays by registering yourself as the owner with Audi online.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a Q7 V8 4.2 tdi for a bit the power was amazing but i found it wasn’t easy or relaxing to drive .The throttle response was so instant it was hard to pull away smoothly ,once it accelerated away so quickly from a junction the caravan hitch extended violently and the handbrake flew on ! it was a bit of a animal . It also felt very wide on the road maybe because you sit lower than other 4x4’s? The 3.0 V6 tdi is probably more than enough power and better on fuel . Discovery ? .....not sure I’m brave enough to own a JLR product ! 

2019 Ford Transit DCIV Limited 190bhp Auto / 2007 VW Transporter Kombi 2.5 TDI 174bhp  4 Motion  +  2018 Bailey Unicorn lV Valencia 

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, cb300 said:

Discovery ? .....not sure I’m brave enough to own a JLR product ! 

:D:D:lol:

14 minutes ago, cb300 said:

 The 3.0 V6 tdi is probably more than enough power and better on fuel . 

Yes even with a 1700kgs twin axle on the back I could out-accelerate many cars from traffic lights :o

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Higgy - sorry for late post

I have a large van - Swift Elegance 645 and we have a heavy van - 4x bikes/1x large dog/2x getting larger kids - one max size Thule roof box

We bought the van and had a Merc E350 CDi Sport estate - great car and similar power to the Audi Q7 3.0 TDi we now own - it was capable of pulling the van well BUT stability not that great due to the %age vs van

We bought a 2nd hand Q7 2015 model (last of the old shape) with all the bits - it had 28k and fully serviced - we paid top dollar but wanted something to last us and it will only be used mainly at weekends and for towing

As far as the performance when towing I would say it's the best towcar I have owned - we went to South of France last year fully loaded and the machine performed without fault and also returned 24 + mpg. It used 1/2 litre of oil in 3000 miles and let me say I did not hang around - in cruise control the thing justs stays at 75mph up any hill/incline - when overtaking the gearbox (8 speed) allows effortless passing ability. In the 37 degree heat the temp gauge did not rise above normal at any point

It brakes are well capable of stopping my 2 tonne van with all its equipment and full max size roof box - its comfotable with brilliant seats - kids love the back with video screens and our 42kg dog has all of the rear to himself - even got is own sunroof

100 litre fuel tank give brilliant range

Like previous comments - the car is not considered cheap to run - but to date and with 20k miles done I have changed:

  • Battery
  • Discs/Pads all round
  • Set of tyres
  • Rear Wiper jet

I have a 3 year service plan with Audi which is very worthwhile

 

I know that everyone has different tastes and experiences - when looking for a big SUV I looked at everything and honestly wanted a Disco 4 - just my love of British marques BUT after speaking/reading at length and visiting / viewing many many 2nd hand examples at dealerships and private - I convinced myself of the Audi due to reliability and build quality - fair enough I spent more than your guide price BUT if you look carefully there are older versions of my car that have been looked after and are a great buy - I bought mine private and had a full inspection done before purchase - the dealers were a big disappointment I have to say....as usual

 

Hope you got what you wanted and if you need any other info let me know

Merrose Farm Easter 2019 (12).JPG

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally I would view the consumption of 1/2 litre of oil over 3000 miles as being very high, bordering on excessive! :o

 

My car (37K miles) never needs the oil  topping up between services (12.500 mile interval) 

  • Like 2
  • I disagree 2
  • I agree completely 1

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

Personally I would view the consumption of 1/2 litre of oil over 3000 miles as being very high, bordering on excessive! :o

 

My car (37K miles) never needs the oil  topping up between services (12.500 mile interval) 

Based on manurfacturers oil burn allowances many use 1 litre per 1 k as the limit. Dealers will work on fixing cars with much lower than that though. 1/2liter per 3k isnt that great I agree but for many manufacturers that's acceptable.

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
47 minutes ago, Edde said:

. 1/2liter per 3k isnt that great I agree but for many manufacturers that's acceptable.

 

Edde

 

I appreciate you input and the below is not aimed at you personally but at the manufacturers

 

Not to me it isn’t and I certainly wouldn’t purchase any vehicle where that sort of consumption would be classed as “acceptable” for the simple reason it isn’t! 

 

If some vehicles, such as mine, can manage with zero top ups between services, the technical ability is clearly present, so why are some manufacturers happy to produce oil guzzling engines, and more importantly, why are consumers happy to purchase them? 

 

When I was a mechanic (early 70’s) an engine that consumed so much oil would be considered as being close to needing a serious overall (rebore and piston replacement) So why is it that these days it’s viewed as “acceptable” by some. Are the engineering tolerances in the engine plants that poor? If some can make engines that consume virtually no oil why can’t they all??

Serious question isn’t it? And perhaps one that consumers should be asking prior to purchase. Fully synthetic oil, which many engines (inc mine) require is not cheap stuff! 

 

To my mind its a bit like getting you domestic gas from a supplier who admits their gas meter leaks but charges you for what leaks away.

 

Do others on here consider oil consumption at that level to be wholly acceptable, or do they, like me, view it as being totally unacceptable?  

 

 

 

 

Edited by Mr Plodd
  • I disagree 1

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe I should have said Pint - as already said Diesel engines use oil and the consumption is perfectly normal

I cannot imagine a Diesel car travelling 3k miles with 2 tonnes on the back and as said really pressing on not using oil - maybe you drive differently:)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mmm not so sure; I am totally with Plod here- our Navara hasn't used a drop in 6000 towing miles but VAG engines do have a known issue for an oil thirst-something that you may just have to put up with unless it gets past 'accepted' levels. There was an issue of people not running them in correctly too so the oil rings don't bed in. As Plod says I have never had a car that uses oil-even my 160,000 mile Toyota Mr2 only needed one top up between services and that was due a leaky seal I never got round to fixing. 

Edited by Jezzerb
Link to post
Share on other sites

....and perhaps Mr Plodd start a new thread for this discussion over the consumption of oil in modern cars as this is about Audi Q7 (those awful oil burning monsters:)

  • I agree completely 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

On Topic.

 

Q7, known for burning a bit of oil on some models.

 

D4 3.0V6D, known for oil dilution due to failed regens. Possible cause of the failed crankshaft issue.

 

You pays your money etc.

Yeti 2.0TDi DSG 4X4 L&K, Octavia TSi Manual, Citigo ASG, Swift Challenger.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, The Dog22 said:

 

I cannot imagine a Diesel car travelling 3k miles with 2 tonnes on the back and as said really pressing on not using oil - maybe you drive differently:)

 

Could well be the case as I never feel the need to “really press on” not that it should make any difference whatsoever.

 

There have been many responses in answer to your original question, me being one of them. Having driven a Q7 I can only say I found it a very nice car indeed and would be way ahead of a Disco IF I was in the market for that type of vehicle.

 

Andy

 

p.s. It’s called “thread drift” and it happens all the time on here! 

 

 

5 hours ago, logiclee said:

On Topic.

 

Q7, known for burning a bit of oil on some models.

 

D4 3.0V6D, known for oil dilution due to failed regens. Possible cause of the failed crankshaft issue.

 

You pays your money etc.

 

Oil dilution may well cause premature bearing wear but it certainly won’t  cause a crankshaft to snap! That’s down to a basic engineering design flaw that has been detailed here. 

  • I disagree 1

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

Oil dilution may well cause premature bearing wear but it certainly won’t  cause a crankshaft to snap! That’s down to a basic engineering design flaw that has been detailed here. 

 

Crankshaft has a known weak spot indeed.

 

But not really proven as to failure mode. The same article blames the 6 speed box but we know it now happens on the 8.

 

A siezed or spun bearing could snap a weak crank if it siezes at high rpm.

 

And if the oil dilution is bad enough you can hydraulic the bottom end and that will stop a rotating engine dead. (And could snap the crank)

 

There's many theories non 100% proven.

Yeti 2.0TDi DSG 4X4 L&K, Octavia TSi Manual, Citigo ASG, Swift Challenger.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, logiclee said:

 

 

A siezed or spun bearing could snap a weak crank if it siezes at high rpm.

 

And if the oil dilution is bad enough you can hydraulic the bottom end and that will stop a rotating engine dead. (And could snap the crank)

 

 

 

With the inertia involved with an engine turning at speed it’s not the crank that will snap (in exactly the same place) but the bearing will overheat and melt.

 

As for oil dilution filling the crankcase and hydraulic locking the engine that’s just crazy!!  

Just stop and ask yourself just how much fluid it would require to fill the sump WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING to the point it will suddenly lock  (It’s going to be a substantial amount) 

 

Straws, clutching? 

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Mr Plodd said:

Not to me it isn’t and I certainly wouldn’t purchase any vehicle where that sort of consumption would be classed as “acceptable” for the simple reason it isn’t! 

I totally agree, standards noted by all manurfacturers are poor. These days most owners dont care about oil burn etc IMO they are 3 yrs of xxx a month on lease and the second owner doesn't care as they might not burn oil. My parents last car used to burn a bit of oil (0.5 l per 1k?) The dealers answer, free tops for life. They would buy another car from the manurfacturer due to the way the dealer was and ignoring the poor quality.

I think of we made a list of manufacturers standards for oil burn we would be shocked would this have any affect on 99% of buyers I don't think so.

Like yourself though my last two cars I took to over 140k both driven hard and neither burned any oil.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

With the inertia involved with an engine turning at speed it’s not the crank that will snap (in exactly the same place) but the bearing will overheat and melt.

 

As for oil dilution filling the crankcase and hydraulic locking the engine that’s just crazy!!  

Just stop and ask yourself just how much fluid it would require to fill the sump WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING to the point it will suddenly lock  (It’s going to be a substantial amount) 

 

Straws, clutching? 

 

They are not my theories but those of respected independents in the JLR community.

A crank bearing failure at high load can lead to massive vibration and in that state up to 700nm on a week crank is not going to end well. Rebuilders have found shattered bearings on engines with snapped cranks but it's a bit Chicken and egg.

The 6 speed box locking and taking out the crank theory has been disproved.

Edited by logiclee

Yeti 2.0TDi DSG 4X4 L&K, Octavia TSi Manual, Citigo ASG, Swift Challenger.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never topped up the oil in my last four Range Rovers all used to tow 2000kg most of the time and not slowly, never saw anything like 24mpg though.

 

Ian

2018 Range Rover Sport AB,  2015 Buccaneer Cruiser.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, IanV8 said:

I have never topped up the oil in my last four Range Rovers all used to tow 2000kg most of the time and not slowly, never saw anything like 24mpg though.

I don't recall topping my Q7 up either between service intervals but then it does hold 7 litres (Mobil1) and the difference between max and min levels will be generous.

 

I like being on an annual not variable service schedule. ~22K miles between oil changes is asking for trouble like this imho.

 

Incidentally the engine is shared with many other models, A4,A6,A7,A8,Q5,Touareg etc. Do these have a reputation for oil drinking? Maybe not.

 

As I see it, oil burn will mainly be via the piston rings so the larger the capacity the more the surface area and potential for oil usage. You can't compare a small capacity 4 cylinder to a large V6 or V8 engine.

Edited by limecc
Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, logiclee said:

A crank bearing failure at high load can lead to massive vibration and in that state up to 700nm on a week crank is not going to end well. Rebuilders have found shattered bearings on engines with snapped cranks but it's a bit Chicken and egg.

Seems logical to me Logiclee.

 

I used to have a 2.8i Ghia X Granada (! lol) and that suffered a snapped camshaft. What happened was that the rear cam bearing failed (which in itself could not seize the engine or strip the fibre teeth on the timing pulley).

 

Continued revolutions in this condition meant that the poor cam was still operating the valves and under load, yet was flexing from the middle bearing and back. There could be only one outcome. Root cause? Poor lubrication.

Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, limecc said:

I don't recall topping my Q7 up either between service intervals but then it does hold 7 litres (Mobil1) and the difference between max and min levels will be generous.

 

I like being on an annual not variable service schedule. ~22K miles between oil changes is asking for trouble like this imho.

My son owns an Audi tuning business and they had an Audi in that was not running well, 25,000 miles and had just had its first oil change. Turns out the whole engine was choked with carbon. 

 

Ian

2018 Range Rover Sport AB,  2015 Buccaneer Cruiser.

Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, IanV8 said:

My son owns an Audi tuning business and they had an Audi in that was not running well, 25,000 miles and had just had its first oil change. Turns out the whole engine was choked with carbon. 

 

Ian

So what did they do about it?

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, rovinmad said:

So what did they do about it?

Stripped the engine and cleaned it out. Big bill for the owner.

 

Ian

2018 Range Rover Sport AB,  2015 Buccaneer Cruiser.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...