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Those switches have been known to fail.  The simplest test, if you can reach it, is to measure the voltage across the two switch terminals with the switch turned on.  Anything more than a few millivolts would indicate a faulty switch.

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38 minutes ago, irishman said:

hi   

We had a  simpler problem with our mover.No connection between the the handset and the control box .To make a long story short we had to get a new control box installed cost 350 euros 

I think you’ve missed out the bit where I have only 2.6 volts at the input side of the control box....... No control box dead or alive is going to work with that supply.

 

Gents can I press the reset button and start again please....

 

I have 13+ volts at the battery but only 2.6 at the input of the control box with the switch open. 
 

There is only the isolator switch in the 2 cables.....

 

So could it be the battery if so why.

 

Or could it be the isolator switch if so why or why not .......

 

 

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As said before, wire our the switch and if that solves it then you need to replace the switch. It's the easiest and quickest way. 

Graham

 

Unless otherwise stated all posts are my personal opinion 

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3 hours ago, Charliefarlie said:

I think you’ve missed out the bit where I have only 2.6 volts at the input side of the control box....... No control box dead or alive is going to work with that supply.

 

Gents can I press the reset button and start again please....

 

I have 13+ volts at the battery but only 2.6 at the input of the control box with the switch open. 
 

There is only the isolator switch in the 2 cables.....

 

So could it be the battery if so why.

 

Or could it be the isolator switch if so why or why not .......

 

 

Have you got a friend or neighbour with a battery pack / jump start pack ?

 

If so, disconnect and tape up the + and -   cables from your van battery at the controller.

 

Make up a couple of test cables from some heavy duty cable, attach to the controller, then clip the jump lead crocodile clips to the correct polarity cables, taking care they can't touch, switch on and try it, if it works it proves the fault is somewhere in the van battery to controller, possibly the switch but it will need testing.

 

Or, as others have suggested, dis-connect the van battery to controller cable both at bat + and at the controller, stick a jump lead through a window, make up a short length of thick cable to the controller  +  connect this to the jump cable, have one person keep watch at this connection whilst the second person, you, connect the  jump lead at the battery +  then try the mover, if it now works, it's proved a fault in that circuit.

 

If so, don't faff about trying to do anything with the switch or cable that's already there simply rewire it with the appropriate cable and a new switch , putting the switch in an easily position, test it, if alls well just chop back the old cables leaving the old switch where it is.

Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.  :rolleyes:

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Again silly question but......

 

You have pushed the red key all the way in and THEN turned it haven’t you?? If it only goes about 90° you need to push it in further.

 

It’s easy to just turn the red key without pushing it in against the spring but that DOESNT operate the switch! 

Edited by Mr Plodd

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

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Posted (edited)

Sorted... 

 

I started taking the sofa apart so I could get at that isolator. After all even I reckon 13+ volts at one end of the cables should mean 13+ volts at the other ,,,,

once the sofa was apart I spotted it... 
 

Some half witted imbecile had cut through the black cable .. They had joined it by twisting the two ends together and wrapping it in black tape......

 

The pictures say more than words can 

E82DB331-FDFD-4646-85F6-17B8D6981622.jpeg

D655A0B7-CEAF-4CCB-9580-01D372D9A123.jpeg

Edited by Charliefarlie
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Great job Charliefarlie - glad you managed to find the culprit. Thanks for coming back and letting us all know.

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The important thing is that it’s now sorted. Another thanks for letting us know the result. 

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Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

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Nice,  B) time to get that sofa back together and relax with a beer or two.

Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.  :rolleyes:

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Looks like a DIY job to me , doubt if any manufacturer would do a job like that ? Even if you had to lengthen the cable you would at least solder the join. Not trying to be a know all but I test everything in my van 4 or 5 days before I go away even back the car up and connect all that up ( if poss ) so there are no last minute drama's ! So sorry you missed your trip away.

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Wow, that's some poor bodge.

It looks like a fire waiting to happen, never mind anything else.

 

So, how will you, or have you, corrected it?

Edited by daveat92
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Firstly thanks for the advice and information I really do appreciate it. 
 

Yep that’s some bodge for sure... I cannot imagine the thought pattern behind thinks a connection like that was secure let alone safe.

 

Anyway I stripped back the cable and soldered it really well and added two layers of heat shrink of the thicker variety..I also assembled the sofa better than it ever was before .. 

 

Job done and dusted but I do think an electrical engineer would have found it much faster but then that sofa would still have had to come apart. 
 

I have been all over the wiring especially the wires and contacts on the mover control box and the two motors where I’ve cleaned up the connections and put everything back together lubed with dielectric grease. 
 

Thanks again 👍👍👍👍

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