Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Charliefarlie

Motor mover .

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Our van has been stood since last year due mainly to the covid situation. 
 

First,things first it seems the battery Charger has packed in.. So I charged it fully up to 13.14 volts.

 

The motor mover (Truma) came,on for a second then went off. I can’t get a bleep out of it.

 

The reset button on the control box doesent work. I’ve tried pressing and holding it but the LED doesent flash. 
 

I realise the leisure battery must be fully charged but I’m assuming 13+ volts should be enough ?
We were due to go away tomorrow but due to my wife’s disability and I can’t move this fairly large van around we can’t get away till it’s fixed.

 

The van is a 2010 Lunar Clubman SE.... 

 

Thenonly engineers I know of in our area are closed due to the covid situation. 
 

I did find a bad terminator on one side and have replaced that.,

 

Aniy advice very welcome .

 

Thanks .

Edited by Charliefarlie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try measuring the voltage on the battery, whist trying the mover (do this without engaging the rollers). 
If your battery is stuffed, the voltage will drop. Anything under 11v whilst running the motors is concerning. Anything below 10v the mover will shut down

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Lost in the wilderness said:

Try measuring the voltage on the battery, whist trying the mover (do this without engaging the rollers). 
If your battery is stuffed, the voltage will drop. Anything under 11v whilst running the motors is concerning. Anything below 10v the mover will shut down


Thanks...

 

I think the mover is not engaging with the remote....

 

Usually when I turn the remote on there is a series of beeps then a noise from the van. This signifies connection and the mover works. 
 

Im getting the beeps from the remote and nothing more. When I press the reset button on the control unit in the van nothing happens. It’s supposed to flash after 5 seconds it does nothing at all. No noises it clicks nothing. 
 

Ive tried to find a fuse for the control box but can’t find one anywhere. Surely it has a fuse ? 
 

We are supposed to be away first thing in the morning and I can’t even get the van  out from behind the outbuilding .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I presume you’ve checked the battery in the remote, as that seems to be what gives trouble a lot of times on this forum?

 

(I realise this doesn't fit all the symptoms, but it’s worth a check).

 

John

Edited by Johnaldo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Charlie. You said you charged the battery up to 13.2V. A fully charged battery will only give 12.9V, and I suspect the Voltage you have measured is residual voltage. When charging a battery you need to disconnect it from the power source before testing it and let the battery rest for several hours then measure the voltage. This will show the actual voltage of the battery.

Motor Movers usually require a good voltage in order to function and the control box may refuse to work if the leisure battery voltage is not adeqate.

Remote controlers also require the full  battery voltage so if you have a multimeter then test the batteries in it. If they are below the nominal voltage (9V  in the case of a powertouch for example) they will not power the handset.

The symptoms you describe indicate a flat leisure battery, or a dead remote battery.

Edited by Ern

Ern

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

It’s not a motor mover issue as such what we have is total electrical failiure, 

 

With the van disconnected from the 240V EHU and with the battery fully charged via a Cetek charger I cannot even get a light on inside the van, a Absolutely nothing works . When I press the wee button to check the batteries voltage on the main control panel in the van it registers nothing at all...

 

Ive been scanning the handbook looking and hoping for a master fuse but nothing....

 

Ive been chasing my tail since 8:30 this morning I have to give up now.

 

Holiday cancelled. Blimey I’m lost for words. 

54 minutes ago, Ern said:

Charlie. You said you charged the battery up to 13.2V. A fully charged battery will only give 12.9V, and I suspect the Voltage you have measured is residual voltage. When charging a battery you need to disconnect it from the power source before testing it and let the battery rest for several hours then measure the voltage. This will show the actual voltage of the battery.

Motor Movers usually require a good voltage in order to function and the control box may refuse to work if the leisure battery voltage is not adeqate.

Remote controlers also require the full  battery voltage so if you have a multimeter then test the batteries in it. If they are below the nominal voltage (9V  in the case of a powertouch for example) they will not power the handset.

The symptoms you describe indicate a flat leisure battery, or a dead remote battery.


Thank you... I took the battery off the van and charged it with a Cetek Charger that puts the battery through a series of tests and desulphates as well... Either on or off the van it’s showing 13+ volts though of course it’s a 12 Volt battery . 
 

But as above it’s a total electrical failiure I’ve found just now. 

Edited by Charliefarlie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does any of the 12v kit work with the 240v EHU plugged in? 

the battery Charger has packed in

could be the cause of your problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
54 minutes ago, Charliefarlie said:

It’s not a motor mover issue as such what we have is total electrical failiure, 

 

With the van disconnected from the 240V EHU and with the battery fully charged via a Cetek charger I cannot even get a light on inside the van, a Absolutely nothing works . When I press the wee button to check the batteries voltage on the main control panel in the van it registers nothing at all...

 

Ive been scanning the handbook looking and hoping for a master fuse but nothing....

 

Ive been chasing my tail since 8:30 this morning I have to give up now.

 

Holiday cancelled. Blimey I’m lost for words. 


Thank you... I took the battery off the van and charged it with a Cetek Charger that puts the battery through a series of tests and desulphates as well... Either on or off the van it’s showing 13+ volts though of course it’s a 12 Volt battery . 
 

But as above it’s a total electrical failiure I’ve found just now. 

What are you measuring the voltage with?


Ern

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you 100% that you have good clean terminals on the battery and cable terminals ?

 

I know this may sound silly but have you switched the caravan 12v on, I don't know the system in your Lunar but many caravans have a 3 position switch for the 12v, being car/off/battery.

 

Most caravans have a 20A or 25A fuse in the + line from the battery, it can be around the area that the + cable enters the caravan, behind the battery locker on its way up to the fusebox, but it can also be in other places, so check your manual for the location, with this blown there will be no 12v anywhere in the van.

 

By the way, the mover motors are not supplied by this circuit but the mover control box is.

 


Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.  :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As others have implied you can see a healthy voltage at the battery but the battery can be faulty meaning that there is no actual power behind it. As suggested, put your volt meter on it while switching a load on and see if the voltage drops significantly. If so then probably time for a new battery.

 

Ctek chargers are excellent but can't revive the dead.

  • I agree completely 1

Ian.
2013 Freelander 2 SD4 Auto / 2005 Bailey Pageant Vendée; 1952 Norton ES2, 1955 Francis Barnett Cruiser 75

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a dead battery. Get a new battery and go on holiday if it works.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Try your local halfords for a leisure battery if you don.t have any local Caravan sales near you....will be cheaper if you know anyone with a trade card.

Edited by gtepete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After much hunting around it seems some iodiot has put a fuse in that shouldn’t be there. It’s an obvious add on and was fitted with a 3 amp fuse. The normal battery circuit fuse is 15 amp. So I’ve done away with the add on fuse and now have power..

The mover won’t work though. 

Coming directly from the battery There are two wires one red one black .... The red wire is switched using this switch 

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARAVAN-MOTOR-MOVER-12V-SINGLE-POLE-CUT-OFF-ISOLATOR-SWITCH-WITH-KEY/333007416931?epid=1737816980&hash=item4d88c9ee63:g:9DMAAOSw~odcN1bB

The two wires go straight to the mover control box the only interruption is the switch above.

At the battery I have 13+ volts showing but where the wires go into control box I have 2.6 volts. 

So I’m assuming that I’m loosing 10 volts through that switch. 

So either that switch is supposed to reduce the voltage or it’s knackered. 

Sorry for my clumsy explanation but electrics even basic ones confuse me. 

We were supposed to be away for a few days but I can’t move this bloody lump of junk on my own so we’re *****. 

I can’t test the voltage each side of the switch cos A I don’t know how and B I can’t get to it without removing two cupboards and a couch unit which given it must have been put together by midgets ain’t going to be easy for me unless I get out the 32 oz estwing and take a big swing. 

I suppose what I’m asking is can that switch fail ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should have a fuse between the battery and the mover box, check that the nuts that hold the fuse in a tight.

I've never heard of switch fail but I guess it's possible, also check there is nothing shorting the switch out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

As you are somewhat unsure of electrics and how to test them  I would suggest you get some professional help before you go any further. Silly question but you are turning the isolator switch (the one with the big red key) fully on aren’t you???

Edited by Mr Plodd

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Switches can fail, but the fact that you have 13v  one side of the switch and 2.6 the other side points to a high resistance somewhere in the circuit which could be either on the + or - side and could be caused by the following.

 

1) corroded battery and lead terminals, on caravan 12v supply and mover supply  cables both + and -

2) loose / corroded nuts on the back of the switch.

3) corroded / burnt contacts within the switch, sometimes temporarily cured by switching it on and off several times.

 

Tracking down a high resistance isn't too difficult, but it can be time consuming, it can be done with a multimeter by looking at voltage drop, or for resistance throughout the whole circuit, but if you are not OK with electrics would be difficult.

 

Check as much as you can for signs of corrosion or poor loose connections, if non are found it may be better to get a good mobile caravan mechanic who specialises in electrics or a mobile car electrician who works on caravans to have a look, bearing in mind they will need access to the back of the switch to do some checks and replace it if required, a quick check for switch contact resistance and switch connector resistance can be done without access to the back by using the cable to the controller and the cable from the battery both disconnected of course.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 


Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.  :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
56 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

As you are somewhat unsure of electrics and how to test them  I would suggest you get some professional help before you go any further. Silly question but you are turning the isolator switch (the one with the big red key) fully on aren’t you???

Yes I’m turning that switch on. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, Silversurf said:

Switches can fail, but the fact that you have 13v  one side of the switch and 2.6 the other side points to a high resistance somewhere in the circuit which could be either on the + or - side and could be caused by the following.

 

1) corroded battery and lead terminals, on caravan 12v supply and mover supply  cables both + and -

2) loose / corroded nuts on the back of the switch.

3) corroded / burnt contacts within the switch, sometimes temporarily cured by switching it on and off several times.

 

Tracking down a high resistance isn't too difficult, but it can be time consuming, it can be done with a multimeter by looking at voltage drop, or for resistance throughout the whole circuit, but if you are not OK with electrics would be difficult.

 

Check as much as you can for signs of corrosion or poor loose connections, if non are found it may be better to get a good mobile caravan mechanic who specialises in electrics or a mobile car electrician who works on caravans to have a look, bearing in mind they will need access to the back of the switch to do some checks and replace it if required, a quick check for switch contact resistance and switch connector resistance can be done without access to the back by using the cable to the controller and the cable from the battery both disconnected of course.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Out of your points above it can only be the switch itself.

 

Everything else has been checked. 
 

Ive gone over every contact and cleaned them and put them back with a smear of dielectric grease...  

 

I have 13+ volts one side of the switch and 2.6 the other checked with 2 different multimeters. One being  Robin comprehensive unit the same as BT engineers use the other a UNI-T one of the better ones. 
 

The red and black wires go directly from the battery to the input side of the control box with just the isolator switch in the red wire. There is nothing else. The wires are perhaps 2 feet long. 
 

Im a little confused where else to test on this short simple circuit. 
 

The only other wires connected to the control box are two sets of black and red in pairs presumably to take power to the two motors.. 

 

So to me it has to be the switch OR it’s the battery failing to deliver power. I only observe the latter as a few members seem adamant it’s the leisure battery. 
 

Im no electrician so I will gladly stand corrected. 
 

I’ve tried very hard to get someone to look at it. Either they aren’t interested or are closed because of the covid situation. 
 

Our holiday is lost now so the rush has gone with it.

 

If I’m honest I’m just going to fix the problem then get shot of the van..... To many ifs buts or maybes seem to be the norm with these caravans, I’ve been a builder for 48 years retired now. But when I get under the skin in this van I realise what an absolute heap of poorly put together rubbish it is. No quality or pride of workmanship was used when this thing was built. 
 

In short I have no confidence whatsoever in this van...

 

Edit to add...

 

Guys I hugely and genuinely appreciate your advice and help I really do 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

22 hours ago, Ern said:

Charlie. You said you charged the battery up to 13.2V. A fully charged battery will only give 12.9V, and I suspect the Voltage you have measured is residual voltage. When charging a battery you need to disconnect it from the power source before testing it and let the battery rest for several hours then measure the voltage. This will show the actual voltage of the battery.

Motor Movers usually require a good voltage in order to function and the control box may refuse to work if the leisure battery voltage is not adeqate.

Remote controlers also require the full  battery voltage so if you have a multimeter then test the batteries in it. If they are below the nominal voltage (9V  in the case of a powertouch for example) they will not power the handset.

The symptoms you describe indicate a flat leisure battery, or a dead remote battery.

Thank you..

I changed the remote batteries. I then tried to sync the controller and the handset but I think my 2.6 volts at the control box terminals is not enough to allow it to happen. 👍👍👍

Edited by Charliefarlie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

You could by-pass the switch altogether, by joining the two reds together temporarily. And then if that works,  just return the two wires back onto the switch after you have finished moving the 'van, until such time as you could fit a replacement. Just make sure the one from the battery doesn't touch anything it shouldn't.

Edited by Eddie
Additional info.
  • I agree completely 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, Eddie said:

You could by-pass the switch altogether, by joining the two reds together temporarily. And then if that works,  just return the two wires back onto the switch after you have finished moving the 'van, until such time as you could fit a replacement. Just make sure the one from the battery doesn't touch anything it shouldn't.

Considered that but I have to dismantle the whole sofa to get to the switch. I can see it but can’t get to it without a lot of grief. It really is one pain of a job... I would have to be fairly confident it’s that before stripping it down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you disconnect the red lead at the battery going to the switch, and run a new lead direct from the battery to the mover's control box. I appreciate this really needs to be a pretty hefty cable, but you could probably find something suitable, just to confirm whether or not it's the switch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Eddie said:

Can you disconnect the red lead at the battery going to the switch, and run a new lead direct from the battery to the mover's control box. I appreciate this really needs to be a pretty hefty cable, but you could probably find something suitable, just to confirm whether or not it's the switch.

 

Use a jump lead :rolleyes: & connect one end to the battery and the other to the connection on the control box (or just use it between the two terminals on the switch)  

 

 A crocodile clip on each end so easy to attach to both terminals :D

  • I agree completely 1

Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi   

We had a  simpler problem with our mover.No connection between the the handset and the control box .To make a long story short we had to get a new control box installed cost 350 euros 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The remote battery is flat - been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

The giveaway is that if the battery in the remote is good only the LED adjacent to the button being pressed will light: if the battery is low pressing any one movement button will cause all of the LEDs to light.


2018 Passat B8 Estate 150GT TDi150 towing a 2018 Bailey Unicorn S4 Seville

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Woodentop said:

The remote battery is flat - been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

The giveaway is that if the battery in the remote is good only the LED adjacent to the button being pressed will light: if the battery is low pressing any one movement button will cause all of the LEDs to light.

 

If you READ the previous posts you will see that the OP HAS changed the remote batteries :rolleyes:


Experience is an awful teacher who ends up sending you simply horrifying bills

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...