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limecc

SafeJack adapter

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Comments on these little beauties would be appreciated.

 

Normally when using a trolley, scissor or bottle jack to lift the caravan I would use a bit of timber between the chassis and the jack. While offcuts are cheap, this may not be the safest thing to do in case the jack slips or the wood splits.

 

Here the jack is positively located to the Alko chassis during the lift and it cannot slip or otherwise damage the galvanizing or operator.

 

The adapter on the left is for a trolley jack with 50mm pad, the adapter on the right is for the caravan scissor jack.

SafeJackAdapter.jpg

SafeJackAdaptors.jpg

SafeJack1.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Good idea, I've got a "U" shaped pad welded to the top of my bottle jack and it really does make jacking the caravan a lot more secure, they need to be placed under the axle re-enforcing plates though rather than the chassis itself.

Edited by GaryB1969

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they look good - you just need one now for a small headed bottle jack and you'll have the complete set !

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As already said, you should not jack up on the chassis rails, but on the axle plates. 
there are jack systems that bolt onto the chassis. These are purpose designed for the application 

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Alko make a special bracket that bolts on to the side of the chassis and say this the only place that you should jack.

Their own side jack has a tongue that slots into the bracket.

P1190331.JPG

P1190330.JPG

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Posted (edited)
48 minutes ago, Lost in the wilderness said:

As already said, you should not jack up on the chassis rails, but on the axle plates. 

I had a look at this and it's impossible by trolley jack if we are talking about the same place. Completely obscured by the wheel and motor mover/damper. Would need to use the bottle jack adaptor.

AlkoChassis.jpg

 

12 minutes ago, daveat92 said:

Alko make a special bracket that bolts on to the side of the chassis and say this the only place that you should jack.

Their own side jack has a tongue that slots into the bracket.

P1190331.JPG

P1190330.JPG

My jack adaptor is not bolted on but can lift in exactly the same place and cannot slip. Thanks for posting very informative photo.

Edited by limecc

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1 hour ago, limecc said:

My jack adaptor is not bolted on but can lift in exactly the same place and cannot slip.

Zoomed out shot of my original photo with the trolley jack. We see the Bailey jacking point is behind the wheel and I was just a few inches to the right.

BaileyJackingPoint.jpg

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I carry just the one jack which does for car or caravan.   It's a 12volt electric model.  

 

772116645_Jack1.jpg.6ac1008f0c19488930480c3a8ca238a4.jpg

 

For use on the caravan, I have made up an adapter which sits in the groove on the jack pad whilst an upright projection fits into an Alko jacking bracket.

 

259311224_Jack2.jpg.96f64ffbe7ba4b1d25f21d98d7f1d98c.jpg

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The garage where I had my tyres changed and my AWD service guy both seem to be able to Jack the axle.

I've got a kojack that also bolts to the chassis and operates via bottle operated scissor jack

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2 hours ago, limecc said:

Zoomed out shot of my original photo with the trolley jack. We see the Bailey jacking point is behind the wheel and I was just a few inches to the right.

BaileyJackingPoint.jpg

You should still not jack up on the chassis rail as you show. Although the Alko jacking bracket would be fitted only just to the left of where you are lifting it is designed to spread the load over the full depth of the chassis rail and via the right angle piece of the bracket. Jacking as you show would severely risk deforming the chassis rail. If you are not jacking on the fitted brackets the only other safe place is directly under the axle.

  • I agree completely 2

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A trolley jack might not be the best thing to use. If its wheels cannot move easily on the ground it could twist the chassis as the jack arm pivots up.

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7 minutes ago, KnausCol said:

You should still not jack up on the chassis rail as you show. Although the Alko jacking bracket would be fitted only just to the left of where you are lifting it is designed to spread the load over the full depth of the chassis rail and via the right angle piece of the bracket. Jacking as you show would severely risk deforming the chassis rail. If you are not jacking on the fitted brackets the only other safe place is directly under the axle.

 

Absolutely right, you should NEVER jack under the rail of a modern caravan chassis, the only approved points are the end of the axle tube or the plate that attaches the axle tube to the chassis. Never under any part of the frame.

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Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, PMW said:

 

Absolutely right, you should NEVER jack under the rail of a modern caravan chassis, the only approved points are the end of the axle tube or the plate that attaches the axle tube to the chassis. Never under any part of the frame.

Whilst this would seem right, the wheel is in the way to put a jack in place from the side without first going under the caravan. The plate and axle tube on our caravan (BPW chassis) do not look much stronger than the chassis so I do not know how well they would cope when jacking.  These can be seen behind the Alko jacking bracket.

Jacking bracket.JPG

Edited by Paul1957

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21 minutes ago, Paul1957 said:

Whilst this would seem right, the wheel is in the way to put a jack in place from the side without first going under the caravan.

 

correct, hence the popularity of the "side jacks" which makes jacking so much easier. If you couldn't access the jacking point on your car would you jack it from an unapproved point?

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To get under the axle tube you would need a long-reach trolley jack, but they're not cheap.

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Posted (edited)

I fear the professionals at most tyre fitters or repair garages do not use the supplied car jack and approved jacking point.

Are they all making a big mistake?

 

Likewise should we really be so afraid of bending our paper thin (lol) Alko or BPW chassis?  'Armchair expert' fearmongering here, those with little engineering background?

Edited by limecc
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12 hours ago, limecc said:

I fear the professionals at most tyre fitters or repair garages do not use the supplied car jack and approved jacking point.

Are they all making a big mistake?

 

Likewise should we really be so afraid of bending our paper thin (lol) Alko or BPW chassis?  'Armchair expert' fearmongering here, those with little engineering background?

Some of these tyre fitters might be amateurs. I have suffered bent sills from them not using the right jacking point.

  • I agree completely 1

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35 minutes ago, Paul1957 said:

Some of these tyre fitters might be amateurs. I have suffered bent sills from them not using the right jacking point.

 

I've had to "dive in" and stop a tyre fitter putting a trolley jack under the sill before now. 

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13 hours ago, limecc said:

I fear the professionals at most tyre fitters or repair garages do not use the supplied car jack and approved jacking point.

Are they all making a big mistake?

 

Likewise should we really be so afraid of bending our paper thin (lol) Alko or BPW chassis?  'Armchair expert' fearmongering here, those with little engineering background?

I might be considered an 'armchair expert' but I wouldn't put the chassis manufacturer in that category. To quote their CARAVAN CHASSIS HANDBOOK FOR VEHICLES ON THE AL-KO CARAVAN CHASSIS . . .

"The caravan should never be lifted by jacking up under the chassis member."

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On our Lunar the mover had to fitted behind the axle because of the excessive noseweight, so the AL-KO jacking brackets had to be removed.

I use a piece of wood - it has to be hardwood so it doesnt split - on either the bottle jack or trolley jack, both of which are easy to get under the axle plate.

 

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limecc: I think your jack adaptors are excellent but, the C section can fairly easily buckle if the load goes in the direction needed especially if there was a slight jolt at the same time and this is obviously why Alko warn against it. However, if your jack adaptor is located under the chassis C section right next to the motor mover cross member then I would say the C section is already adequately braced. The C section is certainly strong enough if its braced. I noticed that your adaptor can swivel vertically and that helps to keep the direction of force correct. Alko's sidelift jack supports are not particularly strong and rely on the caravan floor to keep the C section vertical - not great in my opinion but just adequate (there have been a few failures of them). If the U section adaptor which you have created by welding square bars, could be improved to fit snugly onto the C section that would be even better. You could do this by putting an extra fillet of weld along one inside corner and then fettling it to suit the outside radius of the Alko C section. alternatively use a brake press tool to form some 6mm plate to replicate the Alko bend radius. I hope my explanation is understandable. 

  • Thanks 1

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17 hours ago, KnausCol said:

You should still not jack up on the chassis rail as you show. Although the Alko jacking bracket would be fitted only just to the left of where you are lifting it is designed to spread the load over the full depth of the chassis rail and via the right angle piece of the bracket. Jacking as you show would severely risk deforming the chassis rail. If you are not jacking on the fitted brackets the only other safe place is directly under the axle.

 

The right angle horizontal part carries no load and doesn't touch the underside  of the floor because it's  designed  to fit two different chassis as you can see from the alternative bolt holes in it.

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15 minutes ago, beejay said:

 

The right angle horizontal part carries no load and doesn't touch the underside  of the floor because it's  designed  to fit two different chassis as you can see from the alternative bolt holes in it.

Thanks for the clarification.

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7 hours ago, KnausCol said:

"The caravan should never be lifted by jacking up under the chassis member."

Probably for safety reasons if the jack were to slip. Rotation is a very real possibility jacking a single axle that is not connected to a towing hitch.

 

A close fitting jacking adaptor with a trolley jack is better than a fixed jack because it would follow the load instead of fighting it or slipping it.

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Paul1957 said:

Some of these tyre fitters might be amateurs. I have suffered bent sills from them not using the right jacking point.

I agree. Also on my Audi which has air suspension there is a requirement to set the suspension to wheel change mode before it can be jacked. Most MoT centres wouldn't be aware of this either.

Edited by limecc

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