Finding homes for the spirit levels

[hawkaye]

The front to back spirit level was relatively easy; out of the way on the A-frame cover in the handbrake lever slot.

 

The side to side level had taken me a while to reslove until inspiration struck. Screwing or sticking the spirit level to the curvy outside of our new Eccles 480 was out of the question. To continue our long tradition of me levelling the van by driving up the ramp while Mrs H signalled me to stop before the wheel fell off the ramp, I had to be able to see the level in the car mirror. In the previous van the level was screwed to the front chest inside, but that isn't possible in the new van.  The level has  found a space inside the front locker door. The door would be open anyway as I would have just got the ramp and chock out. There can be no argument about water ingress warranty either, the screws are sealed and the front locker isn't waterproof anyway.

 

The levels are from about 1982 and are called Lambilevels.

[bubble2015]

Clever! 

[Jezzerb]

Could you not just get one of the little levels that do both front to back and side to side-ours served us very well in our Bailey. 

[Flat_at]

 We use something like this   https://www.amazon.co.uk/25x10mm-Diameter-Bubble-Circular-bullseye/dp/B01KU0LBUM/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=bullseye+level&qid=1589119111&sr=8-10   on the floor inside the doorway. When not in use it lives in "my" cupboard.

Edited May 10, 2020 by Flat_at
1st link didn't work

[Mr Plodd]

Never been THAT bothered about being exactly level in either plane, I do appreciate that it seems to be vital for some, but have never really figured out why that is. Can someone explain why it’s so important to them? (Serious question, not trying to be antagonistic in the slightest) 

 

My fridge works if its not perfectly level, my sinks and washbasins do the same, if the shower (when not using site facilities) doesn’t drain totally then a couple of sweeps with a squeegee does the job. 

 

Dont get me wrong I wouldn’t consider using the caravan if it’s hopelessly out of plumb, but a few degrees???

 

Andy

 

 

[hawkaye]

8 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

...

Can someone explain why it’s so important to them? (Serious question, not trying to be antagonistic in the slightest)

...

Andy

 

 

I prefer things to be 'right' according to my standards. Among many other things, that includes having the caravan level in both planes with shower draining OK and the bed and table level as much as  possible.  Our first caravan had so much rot around the door that the door wouldn't open or shut unless the van was level. Maybe that set the tone for the next 35 years of caravanning. Reading the above, it occurs to me that if having preferences needs explaining, you might not 'get' it anyway. If I said that I prefer non-reflective lenses in my glasses to untreated ones, or white wine and beer to be chilled and red wine at room temperature, or cotton sheets to nylon, or open water swimming to pool swimming, does that help?

 

Thanks to the readers who recommended really tiny levels but I doubt if I could see them from the driving seat.

[Babstreefern]

The only "spirit level" I always use, and it works beautifully, are my doors, specifically the fridge door and the toilet door.  I leave them open.  When the caravan is level, neither of the doors moves so much as an inch, that's when I know the caravan is level

[w44nty]

"Carpenters eye" me

 

???

[montesa]

A

1 hour ago, Mr Plodd said:

Can someone explain why it’s so important to them? (Serious question, not trying to be antagonistic in the slightest) 

 

 

 

fwiw .....by of input ......

More aware now of need to be closer to level - plus side to side for waste outlets.

We had Alde issues bubbling, gurgling and knocking at a stopover quick pitch. Alde recommend a Unit should be as level as possible and therefore their system level (or as good as) to avoid issues. Read manual in full or google if really really bored.

If there is excessive tilt or slope it will cause issues with Alde header tank & pump - did with mine so resolved, after advice, at our main site a couple of nights later with pitching much closer to level and a bleed & top up. 

Alde wet ch in 550 Affinity, pump set low pressure - header tank in wardrobe at very back of Caravan, pump under front bench so maybe a more isolated issue with certain layout & set ups. 

 

Await critic ....

M

[JTQ]

1 hour ago, Mr Plodd said:

Never been THAT bothered about being exactly level in either plane, I do appreciate that it seems to be vital for some, but have never really figured out why that is. Can someone explain why it’s so important to them? (Serious question, not trying to be antagonistic in the slightest) 

Andy

 

 

So doors to shower, fridge and cabinets don't have a mind of their own, drainage system, well "drains" and I suppose more than a little of simply not like things done half right if investing just a few seconds more gets them correct.

I used to have Lambilevels which I consider brilliant,  used as intended the athwart ships one should be placed to be viewed in the towcar's rear view mirror. I suspect placing them correctly now is a challenge that full over the top glazing is the present fashion.

These days, I use a 10" Stabila level used vertically on the caravan's side as I stand by the wheel , mover control in other hand, as the wheel climbs the ramp. Then plonked on the "A" frame as I set the jockey wheel. 

[robertB]

Small Stabiler for me too and then only if we are on  definitely sloping ground.

I think that maybe sometimes we can overthink some things!

[Guest]

2 hours ago, Mr Plodd said:

Never been THAT bothered about being exactly level in either plane, I do appreciate that it seems to be vital for some, but have never really figured out why that is. Can someone explain why it’s so important to them? (Serious question, not trying to be antagonistic in the slightest) 

 

My fridge works if its not perfectly level, my sinks and washbasins do the same, if the shower (when not using site facilities) doesn’t drain totally then a couple of sweeps with a squeegee does the job. 

 

Dont get me wrong I wouldn’t consider using the caravan if it’s hopelessly out of plumb, but a few degrees???

 

Andy

 

 

Provided that my feet are a bit lower than my head and and neither of us roll out of our beds we aren't too precious about having the van dead level.

 

However we do have  small T level stuck to the A frame chassis just under the handbrake lever so we can get it roughly right but near enough is good enough for us.

[Mr Plodd]

1 hour ago, montesa said:

A

 

fwiw .....by of input ......

More aware now of need to be closer to level - plus side to side for waste outlets.

We had Alde issues bubbling, gurgling and knocking at a stopover quick pitch. Alde recommend a Unit should be as level as possible and therefore their system level (or as good as) to avoid issues. Read manual in full or google if really really bored.

If there is excessive tilt or slope it will cause issues with Alde header tank & pump - did with mine so resolved, after advice, at our main site a couple of nights later with pitching much closer to level and a bleed & top up. 

Alde wet ch in 550 Affinity, pump set low pressure - header tank in wardrobe at very back of Caravan, pump under front bench so maybe a more isolated issue with certain layout & set ups. 

 

Await critic ....

M

 

Not being the owner of an Alde equipped caravan I was unaware of the issue, but do understand, so thanks for the info. 

 

7 minutes ago, matelodave said:

Provided that my feet are a bit lower than my head and and neither of us roll out of our beds we aren't too precious about having the van dead level.

 

However we do have  small T level stuck to the A frame chassis just under the handbrake lever so we can get it roughly right but near enough is good enough for us.

 

Glad its not just me, thanks. 

 

Andy

[Black Grouse]

1 hour ago, montesa said:

A

 

fwiw .....by of input ......

More aware now of need to be closer to level - plus side to side for waste outlets.

We had Alde issues bubbling, gurgling and knocking at a stopover quick pitch. Alde recommend a Unit should be as level as possible and therefore their system level (or as good as) to avoid issues. Read manual in full or google if really really bored.

If there is excessive tilt or slope it will cause issues with Alde header tank & pump - did with mine so resolved, after advice, at our main site a couple of nights later with pitching much closer to level and a bleed & top up. 

Alde wet ch in 550 Affinity, pump set low pressure - header tank in wardrobe at very back of Caravan, pump under front bench so maybe a more isolated issue with certain layout & set ups. 

 

Await critic ....

M

 

Once the Alde system has been properly bled to get rid of all the air, it's tolerant of slopes - the issue is that many caravans are delivered with air still in the system.

[JTQ]

9 minutes ago, Black Grouse said:

 

Once the Alde system has been properly bled to get rid of all the air, it's tolerant of slopes - the issue is that many caravans are delivered with air still in the system.

 

Basically whilst true, the pump if boiler mounted, could lose a bit of the head from the header so be more prone to inlet cavitation. However, this is only likely to be detectable if also the PDI had not been done and it had been left on the factor's "purge" speed setting.

[micktheshed]

I'm amazed (LOL) that more 'vans don't come with a spirit level built-in.

My Swift has a bubble-type mounted on the front shelf, right under the front window. There are  just two problems: it can't be seen from outside at all, & can only be seen from inside if  minor contortions are engaged in really close up to it.

After two years I am still utterly flabbergasted as to what the designer was thinking of.

[KnausCol]

I must confess to liking the van to be properly level. I just use one of those small triangular bubble levels placed in the centre of the front window so its visible whilst adjusting the jockey wheel. I have a lock 'n' level for side to side so just watch the bubble until I need to switch off the compressor.

[Lost in the wilderness]

I also like the van level. I have a standard 8” spirit level that I place on the floor just inside the door. For levelling across the van, just use motor mover to  drive up the ramp

[Tuningdrew]

I like the van level fore and aft and side to side for the following reasons, practical because the shower and sink drain properly and the internal doors don’t  swing open all the time and, aesthetically, because it makes life easier to get the old Isabella nice and straight.  If you don’t get the sides as close to vertical as possible it’s not so easy to get the side panels to sit properly. 

Just use a 10” Stabilo against the side for vertical and sitting on top of the side  locker for for and aft.

Edited May 10, 2020 by Tuningdrew

[Fireman Iain]

Levelish is good enough for me. I do use a small spirit level bonded onto the A frame, but only as a guide. It’s rarely perfect either way, and I can rarely tell the difference. Normally close enough that the cupboard/fridge doors don’t swing around, but not always. 

[Wildwood]

I downloaded an app for my tablet that covers both planes. It is very sensitive but I only adjust it to about right and have no problems in practice. Essentially if the fridge works and the sink water drains. I see no problem.

[DerbyClubman]

Of course it all depends on the surface you are using being level and built square to the rest of the van.  Our van is not exactly level when at rest on its wheels, measured by the distance of the bodywork to the ground on each side both when empty and loaded. When on site, the kitchen worktop isn't the same level as the smaller worktop by the door and so judging if the van is level all depends on where you place the level 

 

.

[Stevan]

Many vans benefit from being a few degrees off level, particularly to assist sink and shower drainage. Often it also helps roof drainage.

7 minutes ago, DerbyClubman said:

Of course it all depends on the surface you are using being level and built square to the rest of the van.  Our van is not exactly level when at rest on its wheels, measured by the distance of the bodywork to the ground on each side both when empty and loaded. When on site, the kitchen worktop isn't the same level as the smaller worktop by the door and so judging if the van is level all depends on where you place the level 

 

.

I find that the best approach is to forget horizontal and use the spirit level to get the doorframe vertical.

[Mr Plodd]

1 hour ago, DerbyClubman said:

Of course it all depends on the surface you are using being level and built square to the rest of the van.  Our van is not exactly level when at rest on its wheels, measured by the distance of the bodywork to the ground on each side both when empty and loaded. When on site, the kitchen worktop isn't the same level as the smaller worktop by the door and so judging if the van is level all depends on where you place the level 

 

.

 

??????

 

It matters not where you put the spirit level, on the floor, the roof, a worktop, or the cooker. The caravan is either level, or it isn’t level 

 

Andy

[Sea&Sand]

1 hour ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

??????

 

It matters not where you put the spirit level, on the floor, the roof, a worktop, or the cooker. The caravan is either level, or it isn’t level 

 

Andy

 

You obviously don't understand levelling if you consider any component within a compartment to be a representation of the level status of the entire compartment.