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Ex-Gasman

RCD failed

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I was working on the van today and noticed that the battery charger was not working, so I had a quick look at the consumer unit and while I was there I did a test on the RCD  it tripped off fine but would not reset no matter what I did it was FUBAR'd thankfully it did not go when we were away  on a site.  A bit of luck the local B&Q had one in stock so  got that and fitted it, just slightly thicker than the original so I had to trim the front of the consumer unit to make it fit and  all fine now, but the battery charger was still  not working, so after a bit of searching I traced that to the plug had come loose.  So all in all a good day, and on the plus side I now know how the turn off the charger when I need too.

 

Later this week I will fit another external power socket to the front wall so I can keep the van on ECU without the trailing cable we have now.  I am looking for things to do now we can't go away any more.

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Posted (edited)
34 minutes ago, Ex-Gasman said:

 

Later this week I will fit another external power socket to the front wall so I can keep the van on ECU without the trailing cable we have now.  I am looking for things to do now we can't go away any more.

 

I fitted an additional external EHU point about 6 weeks  ago, wish I had waited now.

 

. Current Baileys have the factory fitted ones just in front of the habitation door, totally stupid place! makes the EHU cable cable a trip hazard.

I fitted a Three Pole changeover switch so I can use either socket without the other being live. 

 

Next task is to work out how to fit some lights under the bed that work automatically when the bed base is lifted. Can’t seem to find any micro switches that rest closed (so current flows when pressure is removed from the switch arm) Plenty that work when pressure is applied which is no use. 

 

Andy

Edited by Mr Plodd
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Any changeover microswitch will be normally open on one contact and normally closed on the other. I have one such in a small plastic box to switch the light on in the under stairs lobby. Been there 25+ years and never hiccuped once.

 

Go to http://cpc.farnell.com and search on normally closed microswitches, or Google cupboard door light switches and you'll get dozens. Most small microswitches are rated 5A or even 10A so not a problem - unless you want to use a headlight bulb!

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Thanks for that! Half the problem these days is knowing what to type into Google to find what you want. Cupboard light switch wasn’t one I thought of. 

 

Off to Mr Google right now, thanks again

 

Andy

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28 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

Thanks for that! Half the problem these days is knowing what to type into Google to find what you want. Cupboard light switch wasn’t one I thought of. 

 

Off to Mr Google right now, thanks again

 

Andy

Most of these are change over type andy

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmicroswitch.TRS0&_nkw=microswitch&_sacat=0

 

AJG

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Posted (edited)

 

The issue is that I want “push to  break” switches and, as far as I can see, the link goes to “push to make” switches

 

Edit

I reckon These ones will do the job nicely

 

 

Edited by Mr Plodd

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2 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

The issue is that I want “push to  break” switches and, as far as I can see, the link goes to “push to make” switches

Andy what about using the stick on LED type that can be found on eBay and  wiring the live through a car door interior light switch I'd the cupboard door was no good?

If I were doing it this way I would buy some of the barrel plug connectors that have screw terminals thus allowing me to run the live through the switch and the earth straight to the barrel connector that reconnects to the light strips.

I

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12 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

The issue is that I want “push to  break” switches and, as far as I can see, the link goes to “push to make” switches

 

Edit

I reckon These ones will do the job nicely

 

 

Another option Andy.. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/switches/microswitches-accessories/microswitches/?sra=p

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For the info of the OP and all other readers (1) Homebase are selling of MK RCDs at £5 and (2) if the original fitment is those nasty Chinese types (as so favoured by Bailey amongst others) a Schneider RCD is an identically sized replacement and rather cheaper (£25.99 at Screwfix) than the list price of MK!  However the output of the RCD to feed the MCBs is usually two small insulated busbars and they will not align with the outlet of the Schneider unit so will have to be replaced with suitably rated FLEX cable - solid wire will eventually break due to vibration when towing. The wires from a piece of 2.5mm EHU cable will do the job nicely.

For the record Schneider is the 'modern' name for what used to be MEM.

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1 hour ago, Jiffy176 said:

Andy what about using the stick on LED type that can be found on eBay and  wiring the live through a car door interior light switch I'd the cupboard door was no good?

If I were doing it this way I would buy some of the barrel plug connectors that have screw terminals thus allowing me to run the live through the switch and the earth straight to the barrel connector that reconnects to the light strips.

I

 

👍👍

I have a 5m length of the stick on LED strip, just need to source a suitable switch! 

 

Andy

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4 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

👍👍

I have a 5m length of the stick on LED strip, just need to source a suitable switch! 

 

Andy

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222049565933

Something like this fitted to the inside of the bed frame using a slat to close the switch?

Maybe one of our community with a 3d printer could knock you up a bracket so it is fixed to the side of the base nicely. Mind you a straight piece of ply should do it?

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Cheers Jiff

 

I reckon I can adapt that for the job I have in mind. Nice and discrete as well. 

 

Andy

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50 minutes ago, Mr Plodd said:

 

👍👍

I have a 5m length of the stick on LED strip, just need to source a suitable switch! 

 

Andy

 

Something like this should do, or similar. https://tinyurl.com/r2t7nkz

 

Or something like thishttps://tinyurl.com/t3rhd23  if you have got a CEF place nearby.

 

There are lots of other styles fittings etc, if you Google push to break door switch you may get some other ideas.

 

The lever type is good if it's a bit  difficult to position and idealy would need some type of cover fabricating, the CEF though is self contained and quite neat, just a couple or so screws to fit.

 

With the roller standing up it is easy to mount it say on the inside of the bed base with the roller facing upwards operated by the edge of the bed frame or slats.

 

I fitted some a couple of years ago in the Hobby, in the wardrobe and under sink cupboards, sourced from the old Maplin emporium, those were the days whe I went in for oe thing and came out with a bagfull, especially when kids and grandkids werein tow.😂

 

Why do many caravan manufacturers fit any number of lights, some that may rarely be used, yet none in the common sense darkest areas ?

 

P.s. Don't forget to fuse your new circuit. 😉

 

 

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Had one very similar to these on our previous caravan wardrobe, door closed light off, door open light on.

 

Built for the job.

 

20200323_073416.thumb.png.8acfb03ec5f43c9caee9ad3ad8c0100c.png

 

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There you go - https://www.amazon.co.uk/FUJIE-Cupboard-Surface-Cabinet-Control/dp/B07JB38BTL or B&Q do them they are called cupboard or cabinet switches.

 

A bit neater than a bare microswitch but as said above virtually all microswitches have changeover contacts so you can use them either normally open or normally closed

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Posted (edited)

Only just spotted this thread. 

As an electrician, a word of caution to those replacing any circuit breaker (RCD o MCB) with one from a different manufacturer. 

Although they may seem to work fine there could be a compatibility issue. 

In simple terms each circuit breaker has a ventilation hole where any spark produced as the contacts break escapes.

The hole is specifically aligned with part of the consumer unit which is safe for the arc (spark) to exit, however there is no standard position on circuit breakers for this vent, they aren't even all on the same side of the breaker. 

I've not heard of any issue with caravan installations, but my electrical assessor reliably informs me that there have been fires caused by sparks hitting something flammable in some installations. 

In fact the current edition of BS7671 (IET Wiring Regulations) specifically mentions this compatibility issue and electrical inspections report forms now have a section to note down that compatibility has been checked and verified. 

Just something to consider if you are going to fit a different branded circuit breaker. 

Edited by bspks
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