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outnumbered

Fridge on 12v

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Hi

I have a Swift conquerer 645 2013.

I am trying to work out what I switch on if anything on the control panel to utilise  the 12v  system to work the fridge whilst towing. 

I understand the car had to be running when hooked  up .

When I put the fridge on 12v  it  bleeps and  flashes  red .

You help would be appreciated. 

Thanks

Mike

Edited by outnumbered

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When you connect the van to the car and run the car engine the habitation relay cuts all 12v power except for the battery charging circuit and fridge circuit.

However, this will only work as long as your car socket is fully wired , which if you had the towbar fitted with a car specific wiring loom, then in all probability the connections for the charge and fridge are not included.

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From what i understand from the OP's post it might be possible that there is a separate fuse in the towing electrical plug wiring that has blown?.....or even something simple such as a loose wire.

If the OP has an electrical tester of some description and feels confident he could download a 13 pin socket diagram and check there is power from the towing vehicle socket.

Edited by charlieboy2608

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Even if your car is fully wired and everything working there can be different conditions to be met before the fridge will get enough power to run.

On some cars it is sufficient that the engine is running.

On others the engine must be running faster than tickover.

On yet others a smart alternator may need to be conned into thinking that the car itself actually needs more power.

And on yet others the car may need to be re-programmed to persuade the smart alternator to play the game.

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Thanks for the advice  will check those suggestions. 

On the caravan control panel above the door there the habitation  panel does this have to be switched  to car.

Also if you put the awning light on should this go out when you connect up .

Thanks for your time so far .

Mile

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1 hour ago, outnumbered said:

On the caravan control panel above the door there the habitation  panel does this have to be switched  to car.

 

It makes no difference whether it is on or not, that is isolated by the habitation relay when the engine is running.

The car setting is for if you need to have power to a light or flush pump when connected to the car with the engine off, it then draws power from the car battery.

Edited by Brecon
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ThThanks .

I have a xc 90 2012 .On volvo owners forum I have just read this .

 

Are you using the Volvo cable harness and trailer module with software upgrade? If not, that might be part of your problem. If you are, it may be that pin 10 (you Talk about wiring both sockets but pin 10 is on the single 13 pin socket) only becomes live once it senses a load on it, such as the fridge. So testing it with a multimeter won’t show any voltage.

 Thanks 

Mike

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Then the easiest way to test this is remove the fridge vent and look for the 12v connector. There will be 5 wires usually. The two very thick ones are 12v for the heater. Read the voltage at this point. It may well be 9 or 10v with the engine running.

Have you checked the fuse in the caravan. More than likely a 12v 15amp fuse in the board. Is that ok and is it tight in the holder.

 

The issue these days is that the 2.5mm² is often not thick enough to give the fridge the minimum power it needs so therefore it shows a fault. 

Thetford are very helpful and will tell you how to read the error code and what it means.

Edited by Jiffy176

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I agree with the posts above but as the OP looked at the power source control on the fridge?  Off, 12v, gas, 240 v and set to 12 V.

 

As my Dometic fridge is hopeless on 12 v I have the fridge on coldest on mains for 24 hours before departure.

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Thanks for the replys. 

I am aware that the fridge  is pants on 12v ,I do as you do David  have the fridge on for 24 hrs prior to departure. I will look into the pointers  that you have all have said and get back .

Thanks for your help .

Mike

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1 hour ago, David 38 said:

As my Dometic fridge is hopeless on 12 v

 

That sounds like voltage drop due to inadequate cable size

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6 minutes ago, Black Grouse said:

 

That sounds like voltage drop due to inadequate cable size

Could be and of course length of cable, car plus caravan.

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1 hour ago, David 38 said:

I agree with the posts above but as the OP looked at the power source control on the fridge?  Off, 12v, gas, 240 v and set to 12 V.

 

As my Dometic fridge is hopeless on 12 v I have the fridge on coldest on mains for 24 hours before departure.

 

I think my caravan's handbook actually mentions that running on 12V isn't intended to bring the fridge down to working temperature, it's only supposed to keep it 'topped up'.

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That's part of the issue. The 12v heater is nearly in some cases as powerful as the mains. I know mine is 140w 

I've just fitted a sterling Wildside and this is now supplying a good voltage to the fridge on 12v. Good enough that it starts to cool after it's been running a while so given enough time I do think it would cool, but that is now with a decent supply.

I worked out with my car length that from my battery to fridge was somewhere in the region of 12 to 13 meters to the battery before we even look at all the connections along the way.

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