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Checking the ALDE manual there is not any reference to the power specifications.  I cannot find the maximum power consumption of the unit.  If I have the setting on 2kw that equates to the ALDE system being limited to drawing a maximum of about 8.33amps.

If we are on a site where the maximum amp available is 10amp and the ALDE system does use +8amp, then leaves very little room for any other appliances to operate before tripping the bollard. 

Am I right in thinking that using the ALDE system on 1kw offers a lot more leeway for other systems to operate however being on 1kw it will take longer to heat up, but will still heat up to the same temperature whether using 1kw, 2kw or even 3kw?  Thanks.

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16 minutes ago, Durbanite said:

Checking the ALDE manual there is not any reference to the power specifications.  I cannot find the maximum power consumption of the unit.  If I have the setting on 2kw that equates to the ALDE system being limited to drawing a maximum of about 8.33amps.

If we are on a site where the maximum amp available is 10amp and the ALDE system does use +8amp, then leaves very little room for any other appliances to operate before tripping the bollard. 

Am I right in thinking that using the ALDE system on 1kw offers a lot more leeway for other systems to operate however being on 1kw it will take longer to heat up, but will still heat up to the same temperature whether using 1kw, 2kw or even 3kw?  Thanks.

On a 10 amp site I always run the Alde on 1 kw. I have not used it in extreme weather but have used it during a 4 night stay in Scotland where we had snow, and ice. Also during a normal, frost overnight 11 nights in Southport when we had a problem using 2 kw setting. So if on 10 amp I switch Alde to 1kw and carry on as normal.

 

No reason why you can't use 2kw for initial heat up after you have got a brew.

Edited by Easy T

Alan

 

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The Alde 3020 can be set at 1,2 or 3 Kw. We usually use 2Kw. If on a 10amp hook up. I would avoid using any additional appliance because we have the fridge and charger on all the time too. We sometimes use 2kw for the warm up then switch it to 1 kw for maintaining the temperature. 

However, the Alde load monitor is useful in such circumstances as you can simply set it for the 10 amp pitch supply.

Edited by Ern
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Ern

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"Am I right in thinking that using the ALDE system on 1kw offers a lot more leeway for other systems to being on 1kw it will take longer to heat up, but will still heat up to the same temperature whether using 1kw, 2kw or even 3kw? "

 

Yes. But providing the lower power is adequate to get there. Also the characteristics will vary as the more power then the greater the relative temperature of the fluid to the space temperature could be altering the time intervals between pump operation; all very complex and depends also on how effectively the heat exchangers can convect.

 

We leave ours set to electric plus gas, being prepared to burn gas to get a cold van up to temperature ASAP, say on initial use and when it comes on pre rising.

It will only need to use gas when the electric power is inadequate for what it is trying to do so not be wasteful. We don't take on the costs and depreciation this hobby costs us to begrudge spending a bit on gas for the system to work as designed.

Edited by JTQ
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Thanks for the feedback.  The control panel default is 2kw with temperature set to 20C and let it heat up the caravan.  All normal.  If a couple hours later we later switch on the load monitor to 10amp to prevent tripping the bollard and it all works fine and are able to use the 800w kettle.  Also if we increase the temperature to 22c from 20C there is no issue. 

At 10pm the ALDE system switches to night mode at 17C so no issue there.  During the night we have the blower on the air con running at the lowest settings plus the fridge is on.  On full blast the maximum cooling consumption for the air con is 4.1amp so would think that the blower on the lowest settings sho0ld not draw very much power.  However come 6am when the night mode switches off, the heating does not get any warmer and stays at 17C or cooler.

As the ALDE is already at 17C and needs to heat up I suspect that for some reason the load monitor is shutting down the system bearing in mind the previous evening TV, air con blower and fridge have all been running okay and we were able to increase the temperature.

Last night load monitor to set to 15amp and no issues with heating this morning.  Tonight will try using 1kw to see if this makes any difference. 

 

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Ours is set on the 2kw, and we have never changed it whatever site we have been on. we have not changed our way of doing things and in all honesty the only time we blew the trip on a bollard was down to a faulty bollard trip. So i dont fiddle and leave it alone..

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11 minutes ago, Durbanite said:

Thanks for the feedback.  The control panel default is 2kw with temperature set to 20C and let it heat up the caravan.  All normal.  If a couple hours later we later switch on the load monitor to 10amp to prevent tripping the bollard and it all works fine and are able to use the 800w kettle.  Also if we increase the temperature to 22c from 20C there is no issue. 

At 10pm the ALDE system switches to night mode at 17C so no issue there.  During the night we have the blower on the air con running at the lowest settings plus the fridge is on.  On full blast the maximum cooling consumption for the air con is 4.1amp so would think that the blower on the lowest settings sho0ld not draw very much power.  However come 6am when the night mode switches off, the heating does not get any warmer and stays at 17C or cooler.

As the ALDE is already at 17C and needs to heat up I suspect that for some reason the load monitor is shutting down the system bearing in mind the previous evening TV, air con blower and fridge have all been running okay and we were able to increase the temperature.

Last night load monitor to set to 15amp and no issues with heating this morning.  Tonight will try using 1kw to see if this makes any difference. 

 

Why do you have the air con on in winter? Surely your aircon its attempting to defeat the heating? We also have our night setting at 17C and have both side windows where we sleep open a little. Fresh air for our dodgy lungs and adequate warmth for our dodgy bones:)

Ern

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Just now, Ern said:

Why do you have the air con on in winter? Surely your aircon its attempting to defeat the heating? We also have our night setting at 17C and have both side windows where we sleep open a little. Fresh air for our dodgy lungs and adequate warmth for our dodgy bones:)

It is only the blower and not the cooling so draws in fresh air at night.  Like having an Omnivent on with just the fan turning.

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In very cold weather, we put the heating on electric + gas, so that we get the fastest warm up possible and it doesn't take long in our little caravan. Then we set it as I said before.

2 minutes ago, Durbanite said:

It is only the blower and not the cooling so draws in fresh air at night.  Like having an Omnivent on with just the fan turning.

But the Alde heating air flow is the opposite direction to the aircon fan. The heating air flow is in at floor level and out at roof level. 

Edited by Ern

Ern

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3 minutes ago, Ern said:

In very cold weather, we put the heating on electric + gas, so that we get the fastest warm up possible and it doesn't take long in our little caravan.

Does your caravan have the ALDE system?  We do use gas and electric but just switching it to 3kw for a hour is more than sufficient to heat up the caravan to a comfortable temperature.

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5 minutes ago, Durbanite said:

It is only the blower and not the cooling so draws in fresh air at night.  Like having an Omnivent on with just the fan turning.

To hell with the environment lol

 

What air con unit have you got that actually draws in fresh air then? I thought they just circulated (or cooled) air?

Cheers, Martin

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2 minutes ago, MartinJB said:

To hell with the environment lol

 

What air con unit have you got that actually draws in fresh air then? I thought they just circulated (or cooled) air?

Dometic Freshjet 2200.  According to the manual you specify the blower level, and the roof air conditioner blows air into the interior.   Maybe it just circulates the air, but the air con capabilities is not the point of the post.

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I am confused. As far as I can find my Alde 3020HE allows gas OR electric but not both together nor, AFAICT, does it auto switch between them.

 

Am I doing summat wrong?

 

Another quick question on the same topic. Has anyone fitted the remote internal temp sensor, or the external sensor to show temp? Our unit generally has a room temp about 2C below the screen setting I suspect because the controller sensor (default) is in the back of the unit which is inside the wardrobe where the header tank also resides.

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Woodentop I have been told to switch on electric and gas and it should be able to use both sources.  Not sure if it can as the control panel would prioritise electric and should not use both.

To get to the correct temperature as use the Offset setting to adjust it either up or down.  You will then get the correct temperature.  Page 26 "6" in the diagram and also page 28 in the ALDE owner's manual.

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17 minutes ago, Durbanite said:

Dometic Freshjet 2200.  According to the manual you specify the blower level, and the roof air conditioner blows air into the interior.   Maybe it just circulates the air, but the air con capabilities is not the point of the post.

There is a really useful service screen on Alde that shows the load thru the load monitor (current), you can quickly rule out if thats an issue, it may help you diagnose.

I also recall the modes being quirky, I had a similar issue with out of night mode and it was to do with day and default modes. The way to know if a mode is active is try and adjust the settings, if they are greyed out then a mode is on.

16 minutes ago, Woodentop said:

I am confused. As far as I can find my Alde 3020HE allows gas OR electric but not both together nor, AFAICT, does it auto switch between them.

 

Am I doing summat wrong?

 

Another quick question on the same topic. Has anyone fitted the remote internal temp sensor, or the external sensor to show temp? Our unit generally has a room temp about 2C below the screen setting I suspect because the controller sensor (default) is in the back of the unit which is inside the wardrobe where the header tank also resides.

Alde can do elec and gas yes, the more you select the higher the input / and the faster/higher the output (heat) - you can also set the priority in the menus.

 

And yes the external sensor is much more accurate.

 

This is very helpful

Edited by MartinJB

Cheers, Martin

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2 minutes ago, MartinJB said:

There is a really useful service screen on Alde that shows the load thru the load monitor (current), you can quickly rule out if thats an issue, it may help you diagnose.

Alde can do elec and gas yes, the more you select the higher the input / and the faster/higher the output (heat)

 

And yes the external sensor is much more accurate.

Thanks for the tip.  At present in the "Service" menu it is showing current as 10.7amp.  Fan for air con on lowest setting, fridge. TV, computer and assume charger drawing current.  At 6am neither Tv or laptop are on so should be less than 10amp.

However the ALDE manual states that at setting 2000kw it can draw up to 10amp so obviously more than 2000kw and I think this is the problem with it not switching on when load monitor is set to 10amp?

 

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4 minutes ago, Durbanite said:

Thanks for the tip.  At present in the "Service" menu it is showing current as 10.7amp.  Fan for air con on lowest setting, fridge. TV, computer and assume charger drawing current.  At 6am neither Tv or laptop are on so should be less than 10amp.

However the ALDE manual states that at setting 2000kw it can draw up to 10amp so obviously more than 2000kw and I think this is the problem with it not switching on when load monitor is set to 10amp?

 

Yeah just experiment with using that screen the load monitor should limit Alde to 1KW anyway so leave it on 2KW and it should still work.

My experience of 1KW is just very slow, and when its really cold (freezing) it can't really cope on such large vans.

Cheers, Martin

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9 minutes ago, MartinJB said:

Yeah just experiment with using that screen the load monitor should limit Alde to 1KW anyway so leave it on 2KW and it should still work.

My experience of 1KW is just very slow, and when its really cold (freezing) it can't really cope on such large vans.

I have always assumed that the 2kw setting was exactly 2000kw however the manual calculates the current using 230v for the 10amp in the 2kw range.  UK voltage is 240v and not 230v which is probably why the system will not fire up in the mornings as it is exceeding the current on the load monitor of 10amp.

Maybe  ALDe can confirm the exact wattage settings of the 2kw setting on their system?  We will try the 1kw setting tonight to see if the heating fires up in the morning.

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My point is on 2kw, even 3kw setting Alde load monitor should reduce to the 1/2/3 based on load at a given time so you reducing to 1kw should be irrelevant to the symptom, make sense? 

Cheers, Martin

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1 minute ago, MartinJB said:

My point is on 2kw, even 3kw setting Alde load monitor should reduce to the 1/2/3 based on load at a given time so you reducing to 1kw should be irrelevant to the symptom, make sense? 

TBH not really.  LOL!  I would have thought that reducing the ALDE system to 1kw would only allow a maximum of 4.15amp to be drawn by the heating system leaving just under 6amp available for other appliances to be used if load monitor is set to 10amp?

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I set my heater although Trauma system to 1kw on 6 and 10 amp sites and only 2 kw on only 16 amp sites .

 

Dave

1 hour ago, Woodentop said:

I am confused. As far as I can find my Alde 3020HE allows gas OR electric but not both together nor, AFAICT, does it auto switch between them.

 

Am I doing summat wrong?

 

Another quick question on the same topic. Has anyone fitted the remote internal temp sensor, or the external sensor to show temp? Our unit generally has a room temp about 2C below the screen setting I suspect because the controller sensor (default) is in the back of the unit which is inside the wardrobe where the header tank also resides.

 

The boiler spec states it produces 8.7 kw if heat is that using gas and electric together ?

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There are several variants of the 3020, but picking the latest the elements are 1 x 1050 1 x 2100 Watts.

 

You can download the manuals here and inspect the "specifications".

 

https://www.alde.co.uk/manuals-and-documents/

 

They work on gas and electricity together, but only where the heat that creates can be dissipated, prioritising to electricity where that  alone is adequate for the demands on the boiler.

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3 minutes ago, CommanderDave said:

I set my heater although Trauma system to 1kw on 6 and 10 amp sites and only 2 kw on only 16 amp sites .

 

Dave

I think you have the answer to our dilemma and will try it tonight.  Initially when the caravan was delivered to us in 2017 there was another issue with the heating which was traced back to the control panel.  We have used the 10amp on numerous occasions on French and Spanish sites and the load monitor worked okay, but it was only for hot water.  However earlier this year before Easter we used the caravan on a UK 10amp campsite and thought we had an issue.

Despite explaining everything to the dealer's ALDE "expert" and him checking the caravan at no time did he mention turning it down to 1kw which makes sense.

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If Alde is on 3KW and you have set Alde load monitor to 10A  and lets assume you boil a 800W kettle then Alde should automatically drop the Alde boiler to 1KW and even cut out all together if  you add further load say for example the elec hob... so all you selecting 1KW does is stops Alde increasing to 2KW when load allows. 

Cheers, Martin

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2 minutes ago, JTQ said:

There are several variants of the 3020, but picking the latest the elements are 1 x 1050 1 x 2100 Watts.

 

You can download the manuals here and inspect the "specifications".

 

https://www.alde.co.uk/manuals-and-documents/

 

They work on gas and electricity together, but only where the heat that creates can be dissipated, prioritising to electricity where that  alone is adequate for the demands on the boiler.

Thanks but I have the manual downloaded but nowhere is it mentioned that the 2kw is actually 2.1kw.  Also they use 230v and 10amp for 2kw as a reference which added to the confusion.  :D

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