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Moving Truma Battery Isolation Switch


Oscarmax
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We have a 2016 Swift Conqueror 480 with a Truma caravan mover, it has a manual roller engagement, the battery isolation switch is in the separate battery box compartment by the mains hook up. As we have limited space on our drive it is very difficult to open and close the battery box.

 

The original isolator switch is within 1 metre of the habitation battery and the motor mover controller panel, the wiring from the battery to the controller is automotive 8 mm2, the wiring to the motor movers are 6 mm2.

 

I wish to move the battery isolation switch towards the entrance door, I will need to run in protective trucking approximately 5 metres of cable from the battery to the new isolation switch, then another 5 metres back to the motor mover controller, approximately 10 metres, I have no intentions of drilling a hole through the floor to obtain a shorter wiring run, I intend to uprate the wiring to 10 mm2 to offset and voltage drop, can you please advise. 

2020 Mitsubishi Outlander 2.4  PHEV and 2016 Swift Conqueror 480 HT

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The motor mover draws a heavy current and if you do as you suggest the voltage will be lower at the mover and it may draw even *more current.  It would be better to replace the existing switch with a heavy duty relay and then run auto cable to a new switch.

 

(Depends on the design of motor)

Edited by Guest
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A motor mover draws around 80amps when it starts moving the van so with 10mm2 you'll lose around 0.318v per metre of  cable. Therefore adding 10 metres could drop around 3.2volts. The motors  probably wont even start with only 9v getting to them.

 

https://www.caravanmoversonline.co.uk/pages/compare-movers.html shows the current consumption for a range of movers. Dont forget that the starting current for the motors is a lot more than the running current (3-4 times)

Edited by matelodave

2018 S-Max Titanium 2. 0 Tdci (177. 54bhp,180ps,132kw) Powershift + 2015 Unicorn III Cadz, Ventura Marlin porch awning

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I have the same problem, in fact when my van is sited at home it is just about impossible to get to the battery box.

Instead of putting the isolation switch on the nearside of the van with the long cables that would require, mine is under the front offside bunk, just inside the drop down flap.

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PowrTouch movers nowadays use 16 sq mm cable to the control box from battery/via switch.  Motor cables are still 6 sq mm, though. 

 

Bear in mind this is additional volt drop over the existing install length (as the negative lead will impact on overall voltage losses to the control.

 

5 metres there and back = 10m of cable...  This calculator does the there and back for you so enter 5... https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html

It disagrees with matelodave in that 10 sq mm will drop 1.37V at 80 A  (but it is > 11% of the supply volts).

16 sq mm would only be 0.86V and 7%.   

I'd suggest going up to that size and replacing the negative to control box with the same 16 sq mm cable rating.

 

Others have fitted relays and used low-current control switching.  (The search will find such threads).  May be worth costing that relay/switch option vs the simpler cable?

 

 

 

2012 Bailey Pegasus 2 Rimini towed by 2019 Ford Galaxy Titanium X, 2.0 EcoBlue, 8 speed auto.

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The relay option sounds intresting

40 minutes ago, Rodders53 said:

PowrTouch movers nowadays use 16 sq mm cable to the control box from battery/via switch.  Motor cables are still 6 sq mm, though. 

 

Bear in mind this is additional volt drop over the existing install length (as the negative lead will impact on overall voltage losses to the control.

 

5 metres there and back = 10m of cable...  This calculator does the there and back for you so enter 5... https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html

It disagrees with matelodave in that 10 sq mm will drop 1.37V at 80 A  (but it is > 11% of the supply volts).

16 sq mm would only be 0.86V and 7%.   

I'd suggest going up to that size and replacing the negative to control box with the same 16 sq mm cable rating.

 

Others have fitted relays and used low-current control switching.  (The search will find such threads).  May be worth costing that relay/switch option vs the simpler cable?

 

 

 

Does this look suitable?

 

https://autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/140292b_large.jpg

 

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1026/category/149

Edited by Oscarmax

2020 Mitsubishi Outlander 2.4  PHEV and 2016 Swift Conqueror 480 HT

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Volvo V70 D3 SE (was Peugeot 4007, SsangYong Korando), Pulling a Lunar Clubman SI 2015. If you are depressed, you are living in the past. If you are anxious, you are living in the future. If you are at peace, you are living in the present.

 

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29 minutes ago, Oscarmax said:

THat's really a split charge relay.

 

Something like this would work.  https://www.amazon.co.uk/12V-Pin-200A-Relay-Charge/dp/B00DC7BFWK

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I rigged up a second isolating switch inside the space below our wardrobe. It can be done so either switch can activate the mover. Given the nature of the key switch then you know which switch has a key in the on position as they can't be removed without turning them off. No undue length of cable required to do the job you just need to see the back of the battery  compartment.  Can send image of my installation if you like?  So I turn on with legs down raise the legs and off you go. Hitch up enter caravan and turn off. Works for me as I have the battery box close to neighbour's garage wall. I took advice from electrical engineer to check that the way of wiring up was feasible and safe.

 

Edit the back of the battery box is in an accessible space at the bottom of our wardrobe and therefore easy to drill through for cables and a handy mounting point. In fact the motor mover control box is in the same place.

Edited by SNJJNS
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I faced a similar issue with the current van and I used relays.  The issue I face is that the battery is sited under a seat opposite the door.   Initially I fitted an old power touch mover 3 and the 80amp relay shown on the left.  I decided that the mover wasn’t really up to moving a 1900kg caravan.  So invested in a powrtouch evolution mover.  When that was fitted the isolation switch was put next to the battery.  To use this I would have had to go in to the van remove the cushions and go under the seat to switch the power on.   After moving the van the reverse to switch it off again.  I asked the fitters if I could fit a relay and they said no.  But they couldn’t tell me why.  Which I took as a yes so I have left the isolation key in place and fitted the somewhat beefier relay shown on the right to cope with the 120Amp load of the new mover.  The switch for the relay I have hidden in water inlet box on the van as shown in the second picture.  

Works for me but I very rarely use the mover because reversing is quicker. 

937E44E5-CA10-42A7-B318-F362E4826D8C.jpeg

D3BB4AF0-ED36-4DC0-960B-37C6867DCB5B.jpeg

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13 hours ago, fred said:

I faced a similar issue with the current van and I used relays.  The issue I face is that the battery is sited under a seat opposite the door.   Initially I fitted an old power touch mover 3 and the 80amp relay shown on the left.  I decided that the mover wasn’t really up to moving a 1900kg caravan.  So invested in a powrtouch evolution mover.  When that was fitted the isolation switch was put next to the battery.  To use this I would have had to go in to the van remove the cushions and go under the seat to switch the power on.   After moving the van the reverse to switch it off again.  I asked the fitters if I could fit a relay and they said no.  But they couldn’t tell me why.  Which I took as a yes so I have left the isolation key in place and fitted the somewhat beefier relay shown on the right to cope with the 120Amp load of the new mover.  The switch for the relay I have hidden in water inlet box on the van as shown in the second picture.  

Works for me but I very rarely use the mover because reversing is quicker. 

937E44E5-CA10-42A7-B318-F362E4826D8C.jpeg

D3BB4AF0-ED36-4DC0-960B-37C6867DCB5B.jpeg

 

Thankyou for all your help I now realise my original design was unrealistic, I intend to go down the remote 200 amp relay as above, but my red led rocker switch will be by the door, I may even fit a remote buzzer. Again thankyou for your help.

2020 Mitsubishi Outlander 2.4  PHEV and 2016 Swift Conqueror 480 HT

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3 hours ago, Oscarmax said:

 

Thankyou for all your help I now realise my original design was unrealistic, I intend to go down the remote 200 amp relay as above, but my red led rocker switch will be by the door, I may even fit a remote buzzer. Again thankyou for your help.

The rocker switch doesn't have to be Red:D

I did leave mine on by mistake last December.  I came back to a flat battery 2 weeks later.  That is with a 150W Solar panel on the roof.  So  a buzzer might be a plan.

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2 hours ago, fred said:

The rocker switch doesn't have to be Red:D

I did leave mine on by mistake last December.  I came back to a flat battery 2 weeks later.  That is with a 150W Solar panel on the roof.  So  a buzzer might be a plan.

 

That's why I used a key switch.  I need the keys back to lock up.

 

I originally had a buzzer, one of those piezo things.  The high pitch got on my nerves so I wrapped it in foam to cut the noise down but it still annoyed and I think it would have annoyed the neighbours.  I tried to find chimes or something like that but could not.  But with the key switch its not really needed.

 

If anyone finds a decent buzzer can you give me a link please.

 

 

John

 

Volvo V70 D3 SE (was Peugeot 4007, SsangYong Korando), Pulling a Lunar Clubman SI 2015. If you are depressed, you are living in the past. If you are anxious, you are living in the future. If you are at peace, you are living in the present.

 

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6 minutes ago, JCloughie said:

 

That's why I used a key switch.  I need the keys back to lock up.

 

I originally had a buzzer, one of those piezo things.  The high pitch got on my nerves so I wrapped it in foam to cut the noise down but it still annoyed and I think it would have annoyed the neighbours.  I tried to find chimes or something like that but could not.  But with the key switch its not really needed.

 

If anyone finds a decent buzzer can you give me a link please.

 

 

John

 

Actually your key switch is probably a very good idea.  I would probably go that way if I was doing it again.  

PS to State the bleeding obvious the switch key or rocker need to be feed from a permanent live feed. 

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5 minutes ago, fred said:

Actually your key switch is probably a very good idea.  I would probably go that way if I was doing it again.  

PS to State the bleeding obvious the switch key or rocker need to be feed from a permanent live feed. 

There is lots of key switches on Amazon.  I only paid about £5 tops  Mine has the fly leads and a decent quality key.  Some of them have pathetic keys which can drop out. 

 

I only used a 90 amp relay which the service man said was only just enough.  so going for the 200 is a good idea.

 

Yes, you can use the same live as the mover does.  To be correct a low amp in line fuse would be good.

 

John

Edited by JCloughie

Volvo V70 D3 SE (was Peugeot 4007, SsangYong Korando), Pulling a Lunar Clubman SI 2015. If you are depressed, you are living in the past. If you are anxious, you are living in the future. If you are at peace, you are living in the present.

 

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