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Halohodge

Rear high level brake light

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I have a Swift Fairway 514, year 2013, it appears that one of the segments in the rear high level brake light has gone faulty and needs replacing.

Is this a job I can do myself, is it just a matter of replacing the element of has the whole unit to be changed, I assume that the unit is bonded to the back panel so has to be done by a dealer, any advice would be helpful

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If it's like mine it will be held in by 2 screws.  Not a difficult job, however, they are expensive, mine is going to be £45 plus.

 

I believe that like mine the whole unit will have to be replaced, it is probably LED.

 

It will have to bedded in silicon to make it water tight.

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I think for a car MOT the high level brake light does not need to work so the same might be said for a caravan. They are a good thing to have but if only one of the LEDS is not working there is no rush to fix it.

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5 hours ago, Paul1957 said:

I think for a car MOT the high level brake light does not need to work so the same might be said for a caravan. They are a good thing to have but if only one of the LEDS is not working there is no rush to fix it.

 

 

If a lamp is fitted and connected it must be working to pass the MoT test.  If it has multiple bulbs/leds then 50% should work.  If it is not connected it is not part of the MoT test.

 

Caravans do not require MoT testing so it doesn't matter if a high level stop lamp doesn't work.

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4 hours ago, beejay said:

 

 

If a lamp is fitted and connected it must be working to pass the MoT test.  If it has multiple bulbs/leds then 50% should work.  If it is not connected it is not part of the MoT test.

 

Caravans do not require MoT testing so it doesn't matter if a high level stop lamp doesn't work.

The Road Vehicles (Lighting) Regulations 1989 disagree with you - Every stop lamp fitted to a motor vehicle and any trailer drawn by it must be in good working order and clean.

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4 hours ago, beejay said:

 

 

If a lamp is fitted and connected it must be working to pass the MoT test.  If it has multiple bulbs/leds then 50% should work.  If it is not connected it is not part of the MoT test.

 

Caravans do not require MoT testing so it doesn't matter if a high level stop lamp doesn't work.

Just checked the latest MOT testers manual and as you say they must work although you only need 2 stop lamps. Maybe there was a change a few years ago although as pointed out by the 1989 regulations they should have always been required to work. https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/class3457/Section-4-Lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment.html#section_4.3

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Thanks for your comments but not about its replacement, anyone help

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An update on my situation.

 

Even though there appeared to be a suitable replacement on Ebay I thought I would get a price from a local Coachman dealer.  They don't stock this item so they contacted Coachman.

 

Everyone sit down!

 

The price for a 31cm   Led strip was....£162!

 

I have just re-measured and compared with the on line diagram and have just ordered a replacement for £41.99.

 

 

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2 hours ago, sceptic said:

An update on my situation.

 

Even though there appeared to be a suitable replacement on Ebay I thought I would get a price from a local Coachman dealer.  They don't stock this item so they contacted Coachman.

 

Everyone sit down!

 

The price for a 31cm   Led strip was....£162!

 

I have just re-measured and compared with the on line diagram and have just ordered a replacement for £41.99.

 

 

Many thanks for your input, I knew it wouldnt be cheap, parts for vans are never cheap, any advice on replacing the light.

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On 23/07/2019 at 21:45, Legal Eagle said:

The Road Vehicles (Lighting) Regulations 1989 disagree with you - Every stop lamp fitted to a motor vehicle and any trailer drawn by it must be in good working order and clean.

 

:unsure:

 

MoT.................................

 

Additional stop lamps, over and above the mandatory requirements, must be tested.

However, if you are not sure if they are connected, you should give the benefit of the doubt

 

PC Plodd..................................??

 

 

 

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If fitted must work! 

 

Andy

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Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, beejay said:

 

:unsure:

 

MoT.................................

 

Additional stop lamps, over and above the mandatory requirements, must be tested.

However, if you are not sure if they are connected, you should give the benefit of the doubt

 

PC Plodd..................................??

 

 

 

Quite simply, as far as MOT testing goes, if fitted any optional stop lamps must be tested. However, if they haven't been wired in and/or connected it isn't an MOT fail because both obligatory stop lamps must still be working order for the test to be passed. The Lighting Regs. are the law and it is those which must be complied with to use the motor vehicle on a road. I know it's illogical but there isn't always a direct relationship with the law and the condition of MOT tested items.

Edited by Legal Eagle

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3 hours ago, sceptic said:

An update on my situation.

 

Even though there appeared to be a suitable replacement on Ebay I thought I would get a price from a local Coachman dealer.  They don't stock this item so they contacted Coachman.

 

Everyone sit down!

 

The price for a 31cm   Led strip was....£162!

 

I have just re-measured and compared with the on line diagram and have just ordered a replacement for £41.99.

 

 

 

I do wonder what planet these manufacturers live on. A replacement hinge down flap that covers the cooker on my Bailey is???? £93! (It had a close encounter with a coffee mug, big dent!) 

 

Andy

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1 hour ago, Halohodge said:

Many thanks for your input, I knew it wouldnt be cheap, parts for vans are never cheap, any advice on replacing the light.

If it is the Jokon brake-light with the curved top (or bottom, depending on which way up it is fitted) then yes I have replaced mine. Undo the 2 x screws and pull the light unit away from the back-panel. On our Buccaneer the only place there was sealant was around the cable and where it goes through the panel to keep the moisture out, the screws are into rubber well-nut grommets so be careful not to push these through into the back panel. It may not be easy to get slack cable to effect a join, i had to tease my spare cable out from the sealant  seal carefully until i had enough to play with. Make the joints waterproof and re-fit with new sealant around the cable but I did not use sealant around the rubber well-nut grommets so I can remove again if I need to. On our new Buccaneer the straight edge is uppermost and they have run a bead of sealant along the straight edge to keep moisture out.

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22 hours ago, VOLVOVANNER said:

If it is the Jokon brake-light with the curved top (or bottom, depending on which way up it is fitted) then yes I have replaced mine. Undo the 2 x screws and pull the light unit away from the back-panel. On our Buccaneer the only place there was sealant was around the cable and where it goes through the panel to keep the moisture out, the screws are into rubber well-nut grommets so be careful not to push these through into the back panel. It may not be easy to get slack cable to effect a join, i had to tease my spare cable out from the sealant  seal carefully until i had enough to play with. Make the joints waterproof and re-fit with new sealant around the cable but I did not use sealant around the rubber well-nut grommets so I can remove again if I need to. On our new Buccaneer the straight edge is uppermost and they have run a bead of sealant along the straight edge to keep moisture out.

Many thanks for your input, that was very useful, what I wanted to read, all I have to do is afford a replacement light.

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Assuming I have fitted the said light I need to test it when installed, unfortunately I have no way of testing i t when storage, car too far away, can anyone suggest an adaptor from a car battery onto the 13 pin socket, or perhaps another way to test.

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I have a 13 pin socket and two lengths of cable with clips to fit onto a (spare) battery. The socket doesn't need a front sprung cover or rubber gasket at the rear. I just connect to whichever pins I need to test and plug in. Done the brake lights (pins 6 & 3) and the permanent live (pins 9 & 11) to reset the ATC memory.

 

John.

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4 hours ago, John19 said:

I have a 13 pin socket and two lengths of cable with clips to fit onto a (spare) battery. The socket doesn't need a front sprung cover or rubber gasket at the rear. I just connect to whichever pins I need to test and plug in. Done the brake lights (pins 6 & 3) and the permanent live (pins 9 & 11) to reset the ATC memory.

 

John.

I would strongly recommend fitting a fuse into at least one of your test leads.

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Unfortunately the lights are a single moulded fitting and cannot be repaired. I presume they are so expensive because they are bespoke items and not easy to manufacture, as the components are pennies. I had to change one many years ago on a Peugeot as it had a couple of LEDs not working and failed its MOT. That too was a ridiculous price.

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Thanks for all the info, taken it all in and warnings, many thanks.

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