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Griff

Lock n Level - limitations?

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Toying with the idea of getting a twin axle Lock n Level, one its main uses being to fit two Alko locks.

 

I understand the principal by which they work but got me thinking, if the locks can only be fitted to the caravan N/S wheels but the offside wheels need raising to level,  would I also need ramps as well as the L n L or am I missing something.

 

Once the L n L has been deflated on the N/S with the locks fitted and become trapped, it is then not available for the low side.

 

How do you chaps handle it when the low side of the caravan is opposite to the lock side.

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Buy two ;)

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As a new LnL user (first time this week) I am dead chuffed with the ease of operation... This site (CCC Sennen Cove) our pitch tilts forward and to the off side.  Modus operandi... 

 

1. When in approx. correct position, check the sideways level  and decide which side your LnL needs to be on.

2. "Eye up" the approx. wheel position that you will need to be in for the lock and position the van so that you will need (on my Bailey) about two wheel gap "segments" to get in the right place for the lock.

3. Position LnL behind OS wheel 

4.  Move van back to alignment point of lock and then check you're other side is approx. right for the LnL

5.  Fit Alko lock

6. Level for and aft

7. Inflate LnL to level port to starboard.

 

The whole thing took me 5 minutes the first time and was by far and away the easiest way I've levelled yet!

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30 minutes ago, Guzzilazz said:

As a new LnL user (first time this week) I am dead chuffed with the ease of operation... This site (CCC Sennen Cove) our pitch tilts forward and to the off side.  Modus operandi... 

 

1. When in approx. correct position, check the sideways level  and decide which side your LnL needs to be on.

2. "Eye up" the approx. wheel position that you will need to be in for the lock and position the van so that you will need (on my Bailey) about two wheel gap "segments" to get in the right place for the lock.

3. Position LnL behind OS wheel 

4.  Move van back to alignment point of lock and then check you're other side is approx. right for the LnL

5.  Fit Alko lock

6. Level for and aft

7. Inflate LnL to level port to starboard.

 

The whole thing took me 5 minutes the first time and was by far and away the easiest way I've levelled yet!

Not quite so easy with a twin axle though, where you ideally need a second (single) LnL for the nearside wheel, because unless some miracle happened (buy a lottery ticket if it did!), then both locks wont line up at the same time.

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6 minutes ago, 1164 County said:

Not quite so easy with a twin axle though, where you ideally need a second (single) LnL for the nearside wheel, because unless some miracle happened (buy a lottery ticket if it did!), then both locks wont line up at the same time.

And how do you cope with a sloping site that needs the handbrake on so it doesnt roll away?

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Just now, AJGalaxy2012 said:

And how do you cope with a sloping site that needs the handbrake on so it doesnt roll away?

The single one on the n/s is deflated as soon as you put the locks on, assuming that is the high side. If the n/s is the low side, just use the double LnL on that side, and leave the o/s on the ground. 

Handbrake will work just the same with LnL as with ramps, planks, blocks or whatever else you might use.

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Guzzilazz

That’s OK for a single axle Cabrera but I can’t see how it would I could work it with my TA Pamplona as I need to fit the second lock.

 

Griff

I’ve been trying to sort the two lock problem out in my head for 18 months (maybe I’m just a bit slow!).   I suspect there is a solution using two single LnLs plus ramps/chocks rather than one double but obviously it’s more expensive. Always hoped I might be able to do a deal, buying two singles for same as one double!

 

 

Still using my trusty lightweight trolley jack and ramps until Santa responds to my letters. Serves the purpose perfectly without spending anything! If I do succumb to LnL I’ll probably only get a single axle version though,  then try out various theories. Only bite the bullet on the second if all else fails.

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14 minutes ago, 1164 County said:

The single one on the n/s is deflated as soon as you put the locks on, assuming that is the high side. If the n/s is the low side, just use the double LnL on that side, and leave the o/s on the ground. 

Handbrake will work just the same with LnL as with ramps, planks, blocks or whatever else you might use.

But the whole thing with LnL is that you can fit the second lock, how do you turn the wheel with the handbrake on?

With regards to the two lock situation, Talk to your insurers or change your insurers. Two companies I have used said they wanted two locks, when requested, they accepted single lock with a slight increase in premium (last time to was £7 !

No brainer, I only fit one lock and I'm happy to pay the £7 penalty.

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Posted (edited)

Still confused, my assumptions are:

 

Twin axle not single.

Lock receivers on one side of caravan only, high side.

Locks have to go on high side so L n L under high side wheels to enable 2nd lock to be fitted.ll

L n L inflated  locks fitted

L n L lowered but now trapped.

 

How does low side get raised with the L n L now not available?

 

Surely if any ramps or packers required defeats the L & L advantage and would  also need to be used before the locks are fitted?

 

As assumed, twin axle with locks fitted to high side only.

 

Unsure. :unsure:

 

Edit. If receivers on both side of a twin axle no problem.

Edited by Griff
Comment added.

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My insurance company is happy that I have only a hitchlock for security,  and I am happy to level the caravan with either one or two offcuts of floorboard . 

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2 hours ago, AJGalaxy2012 said:

And how do you cope with a sloping site that needs the handbrake on so it doesnt roll away?

Chock the wheel.

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2 hours ago, AJGalaxy2012 said:

And how do you cope with a sloping site that needs the handbrake on so it doesnt roll away?

 

Leave the mover engaged - as good as any handbrake, plus chocks on the offside just in case.  Assuming you are like me (a tight Yorkshireman) and only have a SA mover on a TA (fitted to the front axle) you  can then jack the van (using a lightweight trolley jack) up on the Alko jack point, spin the rear wheel and easily fit the second lock.

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16 hours ago, DrBob said:

 

Leave the mover engaged - as good as any handbrake, plus chocks on the offside just in case.  Assuming you are like me (a tight Yorkshireman) and only have a SA mover on a TA (fitted to the front axle) you  can then jack the van (using a lightweight trolley jack) up on the Alko jack point, spin the rear wheel and easily fit the second lock.

Life is too short for all that messing about, £7 per year, only one lock and all is good. I have AWD mover, auto engage so I couldnt do the method you suggest, I wouldnt use LnL anyway for the potential downsides of it that could cause major damage.

 

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1 hour ago, AJGalaxy2012 said:

Life is too short for all that messing about, £7 per year, only one lock..

 

Who are you insured with AJ?

 

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Safeguard, before that Caravan Club

 

AJG

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The answer from Lock n Level to cover the situation where the locks are on the up side of a slope on a twin axle is to use a single model on the up side and a double on the down side, the sequence can be easily worked out from that.

 

So it's dead in the water for me.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Griff said:

The answer from Lock n Level to cover the situation where the locks are on the up side of a slope on a twin axle is to use a single model on the up side and a double on the down side, the sequence can be easily worked out from that.

 

So it's dead in the water for me.

 

 

The thought of a puncture or air leak in use is the killer for me, the thought of the cracking noise as the steadies collapse wouldn't be good.

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I emailed LnL a couple of days ago asking about their suitability for use for longer term stays of a couple of month or more. I haven't had a reply yet, but if/when I do I'll report back.

 

BH

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I have one of these beneath our van at the moment but it's deflated twice today. 

 

Any ideas why?

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7 minutes ago, conorandlucy said:

I have one of these beneath our van at the moment but it's deflated twice today. 

 

Any ideas why?

Be very careful you can potentially wreck your caravan if it's deflating, it may overload the corner steadies and mountings.

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Don’t bother with LnL  or AlKo locks. Two SAS clamps and two lengths of decking does it for me.  The thought of the air bags going down and damaging the van with the steadies makes me shudder. 

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Having paid almost £100 for my L&L it now is used to increase nose weight on the caravan😂.

A complete waste of money-in my opinion.

To use with the Alko wheel lock

Assume the low side is on Alko lock side😀

1 fit Alko lock

2 mark wheel centre on ground

3remove Alko

4 move caravan

5 lay L&L so centre lines up with your mark

6 move caravan back

7 fit Alko lock

8 apply handbrake

9 inflate L&L

Failure to apply HB will result in the caravan sliding forwards or backwards even on level ground-in my experience.

However the caravan might slide off sideways down the slope😂😂

All this assumes you have a mover of course!

Get some plywood from the builders skip.

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Posted (edited)

That all seems a bit unnecessary, I had a locknlevel for a few years and it is an excellent bit of kit if used properly.

 

It can be used for extended periods with no bother, we used to use ours for stays of 28 days between moves, it was in use permanently for about 18 months to 2 years without any issues and never lost any air at all.

 

the bag is made from the same material heavy lifting bags are made of - it’s not some cheap party balloon.

 

On the twin bag there is a cross connection valve to isolate one end from the other to enable you to fit locks, when you are using it to level, once you’ve got the right level you can shut the valve so the two bags are independent, also safeguarding any worries about one bag leaking and the weight coming down on the steadies.

 

if you are trying to lift your caravan or level it or jack it up to change a wheel you should always have the van attached to the car to prevent it skewing, this is basic caravanning safety. The only time you don’t have to bother is if you’ve got hydraulic levelling which we now have.

 

It’s a pretty simple process, reverse in, put the bag in front of the wheels, pull forward onto bag, leave car connected:

 

1. If I was using the LnL under the offside wheels (non alko lock side) to level the van,  I would just use the Kojack to jack the nearside wheels and fit both locks, that way it just takes a few minutes to lift the van - spin both wheels where you need them and fit the locks.

 

2. If using the bag under the alko lock side, you can either use the bag as intended to fit the locks, or still jack to fit the locks and just use the airbag to level.

 

Planks are ok and I carried two for jacking as we stay in fields mainly but with the airbag on top of a scaff  plank you can get a pretty impressive amount of lift - more than the usual ramps or a couple of planks I would think

94E6CA19-5EF4-4492-AC8A-84F3AE2158C1.jpeg

View of one of the slopes we regularly used the LnL with

0EC91653-750D-47B3-8C54-9B575AB59A97.jpeg

Edited by sleepyfolk

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15 hours ago, sleepyfolk said:

That all seems a bit unnecessary, I had a locknlevel for a few years and it is an excellent bit of kit if used properly.

 

It can be used for extended periods with no bother, we used to use ours for stays of 28 days between moves, it was in use permanently for about 18 months to 2 years without any issues and never lost any air at all.

 

the bag is made from the same material heavy lifting bags are made of - it’s not some cheap party balloon.

 

On the twin bag there is a cross connection valve to isolate one end from the other to enable you to fit locks, when you are using it to level, once you’ve got the right level you can shut the valve so the two bags are independent, also safeguarding any worries about one bag leaking and the weight coming down on the steadies.

 

if you are trying to lift your caravan or level it or jack it up to change a wheel you should always have the van attached to the car to prevent it skewing, this is basic caravanning safety. The only time you don’t have to bother is if you’ve got hydraulic levelling which we now have.

 

It’s a pretty simple process, reverse in, put the bag in front of the wheels, pull forward onto bag, leave car connected:

 

1. If I was using the LnL under the offside wheels (non alko lock side) to level the van,  I would just use the Kojack to jack the nearside wheels and fit both locks, that way it just takes a few minutes to lift the van - spin both wheels where you need them and fit the locks.

 

2. If using the bag under the alko lock side, you can either use the bag as intended to fit the locks, or still jack to fit the locks and just use the airbag to level.

 

Planks are ok and I carried two for jacking as we stay in fields mainly but with the airbag on top of a scaff  plank you can get a pretty impressive amount of lift - more than the usual ramps or a couple of planks I would think

94E6CA19-5EF4-4492-AC8A-84F3AE2158C1.jpeg

View of one of the slopes we regularly used the LnL with

0EC91653-750D-47B3-8C54-9B575AB59A97.jpeg

 

OP was regarding using L&L with Alko wheel lock.

This lock must line up within 1-3mm of the receiver to get the wheel lozenge a snug fit in the wheel.

Putting the L&L on the ground and driving onto it will not work.

You MUST have the L&L centre line directly below the wheel centre-with the wheel exactly lined up with the Alko receiver on the caravan chassis.

All this accomplished after a 4 hour pull in British Weather😂😂

Note that is just for one wheel!

the poster must deal with two.

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