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69andy

Rm8550 fridge

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Hi all, 

Anyone had the following problem. 

Fridge is great travelling on 12v and also 240v. But on gas I have a flame, the flue is hot but fridge doesn't go cold at all. Who likes warm beer. NOT ME.  Any advice. 

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In my opinion, the fridge should be cleaned every two years. Its a basic job and necessary for efficient gas operation, yet hardly anyone does it. Anyway, try the following :-

 

1. Remove Louvre panels (top & bottom) 
2. Remove small metal box covering the burner 
3. Have a wine
4. Turn off and disconnect the gas & battery 
6. Take off the top T-Bar and bits from the top of the flue 
7. Remove the baffle from inside the flue. Its a wire about 1 foot long with a bit of twisty metal at the end. 
8. Disconnect the burner from the bottom of the flue. 
9. Push flue brush or similar inside the flue from the top and give it a good clean. 
10. Take off the burner assembly apart taking care to note the position of the sparking electrode and the thermocoupler
11. Blow around the burner with compressed air ie  a 12v pump. Sellotape a straw to the end for precision work! 
12. Have another wine.
13. Reassembly is a reversal of disassembly.

 

Have a cold beer for me if it works ;)

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BOAC

I've followed all those steps apart from 3 and 12 😂 

I've also pulled the fridge out to check pipe blockages, still nothing on gas. 

I assume I can use butane or propane. 

I have noticed whilst it's out of the carcass, the boiler pipe at the top is too hot to handle when running on 240, but way way cooler on gas. 

 

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Hi Andy,

 

Yes, you can run it on butane or propane, although I recommend propane. Its surprising, but butane is temperature sensitive. You might not get full pressure with outside temperature below 12C., and of course, if you are burning propane you have to have a red regulator on your gas bottle. It could be the cause.

 

Other than that I think its a job for a fridge engineer.

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3 hours ago, BOAC said:

Hi Andy,

 

Yes, you can run it on butane or propane, although I recommend propane. Its surprising, but butane is temperature sensitive. You might not get full pressure with outside temperature below 12C., and of course, if you are burning propane you have to have a red regulator on your gas bottle. It could be the cause.

 

Other than that I think its a job for a fridge engineer.

Doesn't surprise me. :rolleyes:

When I studied organic chemistry, back in the day, I learned that due to the different boiling points liquid propane will covert to a gas down to -42C.

On the other hand liquid butane will continue to be in liquid state, and useless for use on a caravan appliances, at -4C.;)

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BOAC

mmm, if only I could find a fridge engineer. I've had one say the coolant gasses are gone. And we'll fit a new one for £1000 😂 

But it works on 240 and 12. So the gasses are being produced, just not with lpg.

 

 

"Unless I'm missing somat there's 1 cooling unit with 3 methods of suppling a cold fridge" 

"Yeah well that's cos your lpg isn't producing the gasses" 

"oh so the gasses aren't gone then" 

"you still need a new fridge"

"erm tell ya what I'll leave it for now, bye" 

 

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Get in touch with someone on the AWS  scheme, who is qualified to work on gas.

 

https://www.approvedworkshops.co.uk/

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Andy, could be something else too :-

 

https://www.caravantalk.co.uk/community/topic/136852-no-gas-coming-through/?tab=comments#comment-1656797

 

Thinking about it, on the last fridge I serviced moons ago, it too suffered from low supply of gas. Behind the gas control knob there was a mechanism that slid as I turned the knob. I gave this control a good vacuum and brushed at the same time. Vacuum and brush as you turn the control from min. to max., then a bit of oil on it. That did the trick. 

 

Over the years road detritus had come in through the vents and caused it not to work properly. Before I put the fridge back I covered the top with polythene to keep the dust off the controls and wiring.

 

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BOAC, 

Will have a clean at that when iget home. I'm at a loss now what it could be other than low, supply.  I'll stick my 12v compressor down gas pipes.  Any ideas what this is inside the control panel plastic moulding. It's in between the piezo ignitor and the fridge thermostat control knob, has 2wires into it and back to a connector block on top of the fridge. 

DSC_0914.JPG

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Just curious, are you getting normal pressure at your gas hob? If you are dont bother with the compressed air job.

 

Does your fridge have a light in it when you open the door? I am thinking it could be the light sensor. It is inside the black panel at the top of the fridge, to get at it pull off the control knobs, take out 2 small screws underneath the top panel, pull the panel forward (the cable from the sensor is quite short you can only pull it forward a couple of inches, the sensor is held in place by a clip.

The magnet that energises the sensor is inside the fridge door at the top behind the door panel in line with the sensor on the top panel , there should be no need to access this magnet but you can locate this magnet by placing a very small magnet on top of the door, you will see this move when over the internal magnet. It may be different with your model though. WHY do they change designs when something works?

 

Below is a pic of the light sensor

 

 

 

 

 

door sensor.jpg

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BOAC, 

Yes everything else works, oven, hob, Water heater,  room heater. 

No there's no light but I'm guessing it's a reed switch that's in there as standard for other models with a light? 

Tried another caravan  service for advice today, they've never come across the symptoms my fridge has. 

Im going to have one more go at cleaning all around the burner area, then give up 😂 and buy a portable 3 way fridge.

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Andy,

 

When you run the fridge on gas does the freezer compartment actually freeze? Dont forget that this takes a l-o-n-g time. One of my fridges took  21 + hours to freeze on gas.

 

Pete

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Pete 

No nothing whatsoever. 

The burner pipe above the lagging only gets slightly warm on gas, whereas on 240 its very hot and only a few seconds before you got  to take my hand off

Andy

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Right. I have had a thunk.

 

Have you removed the burner cover and cleaned the jet? 

There is a metal cover that shields the gas jet. Remove this but NOT loosen the gas jet that is a little dome like cone inside the end where the gas pipe goes in.

 

Do not poke anything in the tiny jet hole. Take it from me - you WILL knacker it (Technical phrase) 
Disconnect the pipe from the gas cylinder.

Then blow compressed air into to the jet orifice. 

Then force an injection of cellulose thinners. When Petal colours her hair with Garnier,  the ammonia bottle left over has a spout that creates a jet of liquid nicely. No doubt you will think of something else.

Then follow this up with suction for ten seconds from a  vacuum cleaner.

 

What I do next is to feel with a wet finger if there is gas coming through. I get a helper to push the button in and feel the gas coming out of the jet. If there is little or none then the problem is narrowed down.

 

Have you checked the thermocoupler? If this is misbehaving it will not allow the main jet to kick in properly. You can check this with a volt meter. When there is fire on the thermocouple you will get a small voltage reading in the miliamps portion on the tester,  but no  reading means bad thermocouple.

 

Please God let one of these work. I am running out of options here :D

 

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Sounds almost like it's running on a pilot light only rather than the main burn of gas. I dont know if this fridge has a thermostat for it's gas operation or not though. Thermostat / gas valve issue resulting in pilot light only?

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Yeah that's another possibility. I wonder if the valve will come off and be easily serviceable. At £210 I'm certainly not gonna just replace it. Dometic are absolutely disgusting on spare part prices. 

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1 hour ago, 69andy said:

Yeah that's another possibility. I wonder if the valve will come off and be easily serviceable. At £210 I'm certainly not gonna just replace it. Dometic are absolutely disgusting on spare part prices. 

I had a similar issue with a gas valve (not caravan related), I took it apart and flushed the metal items with carb cleaner, the amount of gunge that came out was incredible, reassembled - perfect.

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2 hours ago, AJGalaxy2012 said:

Sounds almost like it's running on a pilot light only rather than the main burn of gas. I dont know if this fridge has a thermostat for it's gas operation or not though. Thermostat / gas valve issue resulting in pilot light only?

 

We are looking at the termocoupler then. How much are they Andy? I dont know the current prices but you seem to have a handle on that.

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Posted (edited)

Thermocouple are 40 of our great British pounds. Although you can buy a universal one for little more than a fiver. Dometic, robbing b'stards! 

Will take valve out and look at that this weekend. 

Edited by 69andy

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Is the caravan/fridge level? Sometimes fridges will work on electric & not cool properly on gas.  

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Yep, level as can be. 

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2 hours ago, BOAC said:

 

We are looking at the termocoupler then. How much are they Andy? I dont know the current prices but you seem to have a handle on that.

 

Dometic/Electrolux will charge you around £47 for a thermocouple, but I've just fitted one which cost me around 9 quid and it's working fine.   Look on ebay for them.   The main thing is getting the required length.   For a rough idea measure the height of the fridge and add the depth from front to back.   Generic ones on ebay will come with a choice of unions.   To see method of testing the thermocouple see my CT writeup. 

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From the OP's description it suggests that the burner jet is partially blocked, which is not uncommon, and cannot be removed by blowing air at it, and cannot be cleaned with any wire or such like as they are too critical in sizing. 

Depending on the state of the burner, if in good clean condition then a new No43 jet would be in order, if the burner is very corroded then a new burner and jet would be the way to go.

 

Looking on line I can see the jet alone at £11.54 and the complete burner and jet at £65.47.

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1 hour ago, Jaydug said:

 

Dometic/Electrolux will charge you around £47 for a thermocouple, but I've just fitted one which cost me around 9 quid and it's working fine.   Look on ebay for them.   The main thing is getting the required length.   For a rough idea measure the height of the fridge and add the depth from front to back.   Generic ones on ebay will come with a choice of unions.   To see method of testing the thermocouple see my CT writeup. 

 

 

   Brilliant write up :Thankyou:

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3 hours ago, BOAC said:

 

We are looking at the termocoupler then. How much are they Andy? I dont know the current prices but you seem to have a handle on that.

It wouldnt be the thermocouple, the pilot light would extinguish if that was at fault (assuming it has a pilot light and main burn type situation).

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