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Adding a usb socket Swift conqueror 650 2018


Bridget448
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Has anyone added an additional 12v socket or usb socket to one of the blanks at the front  of this model of caravan please? Really struggling to pick up the appropriate 12v feed. It does not appear to be prewired for the more expensive elegance model which has them in.  Can't find a descent wiring diagram to help either?

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Have you thought of fitting one of these.

'I know' is just 'I Believe' with delusions of grandeur

Mitsubishi Outlander 2.4 PHEV 4H

Unicorn 4 Cadiz

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Or...

 

One of these ......

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-1-gang-sp-13a-switched-socket-2-1a-2-outlet-usb-charger-white/8812f

to an existing socket, doubles are also available but check amp  requirment for your gadget(s)

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If you don't go off grid, then how about this

 

Other colours are available if you do a search

Edited by Wunny
As above
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3 hours ago, The road toad said:

Or...

 

One of these ......

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-1-gang-sp-13a-switched-socket-2-1a-2-outlet-usb-charger-white/8812f

to an existing socket, doubles are also available but check amp  requirment for your gadget(s)

As an ex Swift user, I would point out that a standard domestic size socket outlet won't fit in the front moulded pod at the top of the chest of drawers,  it is designed for the C line style sockets.

It should be reasonably easy to get 12V cables behind the chest and into the back of the pod, it's getting to a suitable 12V supply that may be an issue, although on mine it would have been fairly straightforward to run it to the consumer unit through the underseat locker and pick a feed from one of the 12V fuses.

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Thanks folks...I've already purchased a Berker twin usb  which fits the blank -off ebay. I stupidly thought it would be dead easy to splice into a 12v wire at the back of the drawers. Unfortunately my electrician friend says it's not that simple ...something to do with the negative running into the light fittings? I should have discussed this with him before purchase. Going directly to the Sergent fuse box was the other option but without a proper wiring diagram this could not be done. Perhaps I'll just stick the phone charger back in the 240v socket like I did before!

 

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Every 12v electrical item/feed on your caravan has two leads, a live and a return (earth)   For some bizarre reason caravan manufacturers seem to use white as the earth wire as opposed to cars where the earth is always black. Find the nearest supply, splice into the two wires and the job is done, just be sure the fuse on that circuit can take the extra (though minimal) load of the USB socket, usually no more than 2.2 amps max.

 

Andy

Experience is something you acquire after you have an urgent need for it.

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Hi,

 

try this website for a wiring diagram https://orbit.brightbox.com/v1/acc-jqzwj/Swift-Group/handbooks/pdfs/000/000/271/original/2018-Touring-Caravan-Technical-Handbookv2.pdf?1525272701

 

Do you have a 12volt socket on the front binnacle for a tv, if so you can connect direct to that via a fuse.  I did this on my 2016 Conqueror and have been very pleased with it.

 

Dave

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17 hours ago, Mr Plodd said:

Every 12v electrical item/feed on your caravan has two leads, a live and a return (earth)   For some bizarre reason caravan manufacturers seem to use white as the earth wire as opposed to cars where the earth is always black. Find the nearest supply, splice into the two wires and the job is done, just be sure the fuse on that circuit can take the extra (though minimal) load of the USB socket, usually no more than 2.2 amps max.

 

Andy

 

Sorry Ploddy old thing, but the negative/earth in cars has been brown for decades. The only black is usually the negative from the battery to chassis and/or engine block.

I don't know why they use white as earth save that mains in the good ole US of A the live is black and the neutral is white.

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If these USB outlets are hard wired into the live 12V DC system has anyone considered the parasitic drain they impose?

I would be tempted to have them switched, so out of use the drain is zero.

 

Being predominately off EHU vanners I opted for a couple of these durracell 2.4 Amp twin 12 VDC to USB adaptors that plug into the van's sockets as and when needed.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Duracell-Dual-USB-in-Car-Charger-for-Devices-Tablets-Mobile-PHONES-DR5010A/2254311276?iid=223483669423&rt=nc

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2 hours ago, Woodentop said:

 

I don't know why they use white as earth save that mains in the good ole US of A the live is black and the neutral is white.

 

Maybe its just "always been like that"!

My hands on experience with car/towbar wiring is (frighteningly) nearly 50 years old, and even then, the earth wire on the old 7 core was white, and thicker than the rest. So blame whoever first used 7 core!

Caravan manufacturers are just continuing with the format.

To quote a phrase from some safety based training a couple of years ago - "normalisation of deviation".

 

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I have just fitted some extra sockets in my new Sprite, one new 230v, two 12v and another double USB to fill all four blanks in the binnacle

All necessary supplies were already available in the binnacle, just took the 12v feeds from the cable that served the original USB.

The existing 230v socket appeared to have a feed in and out, presumably to one of the other sockets, so I simply wired the new one into the line. 

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3 hours ago, JTQ said:

If these USB outlets are hard wired into the live 12V DC system has anyone considered the parasitic drain they impose?

I would be tempted to have them switched, so out of use the drain is zero.

 

Being predominately off EHU vanners I opted for a couple of these durracell 2.4 Amp twin 12 VDC to USB adaptors that plug into the van's sockets as and when needed.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Duracell-Dual-USB-in-Car-Charger-for-Devices-Tablets-Mobile-PHONES-DR5010A/2254311276?iid=223483669423&rt=nc

Mine only take  0.03A when on standby, 30mA, not enough to worry about.  The problem with the likes of the Duracell charger and other similar styles is the efficiency when theyre charging, I dont know about Duracell one bvut some of the others are not very efficient.

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23 minutes ago, AJGalaxy2012 said:

Mine only take  0.03A when on standby, 30mA, not enough to worry about.  The problem with the likes of the Duracell charger and other similar styles is the efficiency when theyre charging, I dont know about Duracell one bvut some of the others are not very efficient.

 

Thanks, 30mA is quite low though for each one it equates to three quarters of an Ah every day. As an off grid user, even that IMO is better avoided and I would install a switch so it is zero other than when in use.

 

An interesting comment about the inefficiency of these stand alone adaptors, I have not measured it with my Durracell units, though I have never noticed any significant  heating .

Is the electronics employed in the built in units that materially different  giving them a significantly higher efficiency?  Plus with the length of time these are on load is the relative efficiency that material?

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7 hours ago, JTQ said:

 

Thanks, 30mA is quite low though for each one it equates to three quarters of an Ah every day. As an off grid user, even that IMO is better avoided and I would install a switch so it is zero other than when in use.

 

An interesting comment about the inefficiency of these stand alone adaptors, I have not measured it with my Durracell units, though I have never noticed any significant  heating .

Is the electronics employed in the built in units that materially different  giving them a significantly higher efficiency?  Plus with the length of time these are on load is the relative efficiency that material?

As I said I havent looked at the Duracel units but the couple I have had dealings with were very compromised in terms of design, quality and space, they did give off quite a bit of heat when charging at higher currents eg iPad. 

For me 10Ah per week wouldnt be an issue and I wouldnt bother adding a switch, my rood Solar takes care of all of that I suppose a switch could be added, depends on the aesthetics of the OP's van and setup. Maybe a twin module could be found and a switch added to a blank module next to it?

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I had thought about installing one or two in my current caravan,  but, like JTQ above, most of my caravanning is off grid, and I too am concerned about the parasitic drain, particularly when using the caravan over Winter.

I hadn't considered fitting a switch, but I now think that's a great idea.

On my particular caravan (Adria Altea Eden) as with many there is 12V for the tv aerial in the wardrobe. 

It would be an easy option to either cut a switch into the side of the wardrobe (if I'm feeling brave) or simply mount the switch inside the wardrobe and then feed out to an USB outlet or 2 cut into the underseat lockers.

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2 hours ago, bspks said:

I had thought about installing one or two in my current caravan,  but, like JTQ above, most of my caravanning is off grid, and I too am concerned about the parasitic drain, particularly when using the caravan over Winter.

I hadn't considered fitting a switch, but I now think that's a great idea.

On my particular caravan (Adria Altea Eden) as with many there is 12V for the tv aerial in the wardrobe. 

It would be an easy option to either cut a switch into the side of the wardrobe (if I'm feeling brave) or simply mount the switch inside the wardrobe and then feed out to an USB outlet or 2 cut into the underseat lockers.

You better not look at the amps when theyre charging then :D

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3 hours ago, AJGalaxy2012 said:

You better not look at the amps when theyre charging then :D

 

But, their use duration is only going to be a fraction of the 24 hours a day, whereas the parasitic drain is there for every hour.

A USB at 2.5 Amps and its 5 volts, amounts to 12 Watts.

I typically undertake recharging during the day when the solar panel's yield is capable of way exceeding the needs of recharging our ki. A time when normally the solar controller would have gone to sleep.

All really focused on managing power as efficiently and effectively as practically as we can.

 

 

 

Edited by JTQ
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Our caravan was a demonstrator model and when we first saw it.  It had precisely one 12v socket.   It was on the outside and it is a Hella type.   As we mainly go off grid this was not a lot of use.   As part of the deal I got the dealer to fit 2 x 12v plug sockets.   Over a period of time I have made a few modifications.  I have added two sockets like the one in the first picture.  These are as cheap as proverbial chips.   They have one major disadvantage they have a blue led light that drives me mad fortunately I have installed 2 under shelves and they are effectively hidden.    The second picture is of a c line socket which I have replaced one of the dealer fitted cigarette type sockets. 

The OP asked a question about picking up wiring.  In our caravan firstly I wired the dealer fitted sockets properly into the 12v distribution system.  So now they are fused and switch off when the master switch is off.  A task obviously beond the skilled work force of the supplying dealer.  I have also replaced the facia trims so that they match the electrical sockets and switches originally fitted.   I am afraid that with the under shelf units I ran wiring all the way back to the 12v distribution unit and picked up a spare fuse way.   This was time consuming but at least it is a proper job, so I do get some parasitic drain when the van is in use but I don’t worry about it.  In storage the power supply to all the sockets is cut, so not a problem even in the winter.  

 

6D7701D9-8EF2-4EFC-8649-2E389E297E96.jpeg

FED684F4-8D0B-4012-900B-174742465883.jpeg

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4 hours ago, JTQ said:

 

But, their use duration is only going to be a fraction of the 24 hours a day, whereas the parasitic drain is there for every hour.

A USB at 2.5 Amps and its 5 volts, amounts to 12 Watts.

I typically undertake recharging during the day when the solar panel's yield is capable of way exceeding the needs of recharging our ki. A time when normally the solar controller would have gone to sleep.

All really focused on managing power as efficiently and effectively as practically as we can.

 

 

 

The solar should hopefully be able to cover any standby drain anyway, 14 hrs of darkness  about 0.8 A/h it really doesnt worry me at all. You breaks away must be fun analysing to the n'th degree the usage of 12v :D, whatever floats your boat. 300w of panels flat on my roof so not the most efficient setup but it works, no switches, no messing about. 3000w pure sine wave inverter feeds the TV in the bedroom, Microwave and wifeys hair dryer, all good. The big inverter does take a little more than a smaller inverter at lower levels but it's not worth the hassle to switch in and out different ones, why worry about 30mA? it would flatten your battery in 76 days.

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I wouldn’t under estimate drains in winter.  I have flattened 2 x 90ah batteries by leaving the relay I use for operating the mover.  It took 10 days.  I had a 150W panel on the roof.   One day last December it managed to put 2.5 Ah in to the battery, not per hour, per day!   It’s ok having 3000W on the roof but but the weight of a 150W panel is approx 12 kg, 3000W inverter another 7kg or so plus the weight of cable.  So that’s 30kg from load the load allowance.  Fortunately U.K. vans are so generous in that respect😉

 

As a contrast to the 2.5Ah per day week before last we were off grid for 10 days. I have fitted a 120W semi flexible panel and because I wanted to go truly over the top brought along my original 43W freestanding panel.  Maximum current recorded 16.49 amps.  That was in full sun with a flat battery added.   Most of the time the batteries were fully charged by about 10 00am so the current was dropping off long before maximum potential was reached.

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2 hours ago, fred said:

I wouldn’t under estimate drains in winter.  I have flattened 2 x 90ah batteries by leaving the relay I use for operating the mover.  It took 10 days.  I had a 150W panel on the roof.   One day last December it managed to put 2.5 Ah in to the battery, not per hour, per day!   It’s ok having 3000W on the roof but but the weight of a 150W panel is approx 12 kg, 3000W inverter another 7kg or so plus the weight of cable.  So that’s 30kg from load the load allowance.  Fortunately U.K. vans are so generous in that respect😉

 

As a contrast to the 2.5Ah per day week before last we were off grid for 10 days. I have fitted a 120W semi flexible panel and because I wanted to go truly over the top brought along my original 43W freestanding panel.  Maximum current recorded 16.49 amps.  That was in full sun with a flat battery added.   Most of the time the batteries were fully charged by about 10 00am so the current was dropping off long before maximum potential was reached.

I think you should look for another relay, 0.75 amps is one hell of a coil, 8 watts! 

 

Summer or winter, it makes no difference to the drains only to the input from the panels, I'm not even sure that the OP has solar. The point was  0.03A discharge when the sockets not in use and whether a switch is essential, for me, I wouldnt unless it was very convenient and easy.

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18 hours ago, AJGalaxy2012 said:

I think you should look for another relay, 0.75 amps is one hell of a coil, 8 watts! 

No I need to remember to switch the relay off.   Actually this incident occurred straight after getting 2.5Ah in a day so battery wasn’t fully charged.

18 hours ago, AJGalaxy2012 said:

Summer or winter, it makes no difference to the drains only to the input from the panels,

 

Thank you for that I don’t think I would ever have worked that out.  When the batteries are fully charged my monitor indicates 0.05A as the float current not calibrated but does give an order of magnitude of the parasitic drain. 

 

Anyway i I still think that the OP’s best option might be to bite the bullet and run wining back to the distribution point.  

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On 05/06/2019 at 23:04, Mr Plodd said:

Every 12v electrical item/feed on your caravan has two leads, a live and a return (earth)   For some bizarre reason caravan manufacturers seem to use white as the earth wire as opposed to cars where the earth is always black. Find the nearest supply, splice into the two wires and the job is done, just be sure the fuse on that circuit can take the extra (though minimal) load of the USB socket, usually no more than 2.2 amps max.

 

Andy

Years ago Standard Germany vehicle wiring white is negative and black is positive and the wires have numbers, 30 positive and 31 negative for example. British vehicles (are there any left) black was negative and unfused positive was brown, fused was purple, ignition non fused white and fused red.  This is for negative earth vehicles.

 

As for today, we have harmonised with Europe but only green/yellow and white are reserved for earth and combined earth/neutral and white has been used for extra low voltage for years so only colour which is really reserved is green/yellow.

 

It does recommend colours for DC however they seem to be ignored. Even AC with split phase as used with site 110 volt supplies the colours should be line 1 brown and line 2 black and earth green/yellow, I have yet to see yellow flex with those colours, it seems blue is always used instead of black and I have failed to find a suppler for cable with correct colours on the cores.

 

 

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