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Landyman

Vanmaster Alde bleed points

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Vanmaster Occasion 640 with transverse bed 2010 vintage. I can only find two bleed points - one next to the boiler at the front and the other is the radiator in the bathroom at the back.  Does anyone know of any others please. 

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16 minutes ago, Landyman said:

Vanmaster Occasion 640 with transverse bed 2010 vintage. I can only find two bleed points - one next to the boiler at the front and the other is the radiator in the bathroom at the back.  Does anyone know of any others please. 

 

Every van I have had with Alde has had drain points on the top corners of the pipework, one under each front seat and one under the fixed bed(s).

They are not necessarily easy to get too. 

On a previous Swift they could be accessed through cut outs in the back boards behind the seats or mattress, but on Lunars we have had (and currently have) they cant be seen at all and only seem accessible  by feel under the seats or bed.

I am in the process of changing the Alde fluid, and if bleeding is needed afterwards, the points under the seats and beds will have to be bled “blind”.

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Follow the pipework allround - there should be a bleed point near each convector and near the wheelarches - any air gets trapped at the high points - obviously.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Landyman said:

Vanmaster Occasion 640 with transverse bed 2010 vintage. I can only find two bleed points - one next to the boiler at the front and the other is the radiator in the bathroom at the back.  Does anyone know of any others please. 

 

I have the 640 TBEW as you but not same year so may differ.  I have the following:

  • Each wardrobe either side of bed - bleed point at rear - base lifts up for better access.
  • Nearside front bunk has one at end of rad nearest the door.
  • Bathroom rad.
  • I think there is one on the front rad which runs from a couple of inches from the nearside wall to beyond the front chest of drawers but blessed if I can remember left or right for that one.

As an aside to your question, I have removed all the front seat backing boards which were only about 12mm away from the walls (Alde recommend an air gap of 30-35mm).  This may sound daft but I replaced the 12mm wall mounts with cabinet knobs about 32mm deep - cost less than a tenner and for half an hours work got significantly better air flow.  Knobs are out of sight but provide much better support for the backing boards when leaning back.

Edited by SamD

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Thanks for all the pointers especially the improved air flow from SamD. This weekend will be investigating further. We have experienced slow warm up from cold.  I think I’ve removed all the air from the system by turning the pump up for about an hour.  Just need to get to the correct percentage mixture in the system.

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 Now have correct mixture in the Alde system and no air.  

Have looked at air gaps behind seats at front and they appear to be about 19mm.  Looked at unscrewing the seat backs but screws are hidden behind seat buttons.  I’ve attacked one but its resisting, don’t want to damage them so how are they attached? Many thanks in advance.

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1 hour ago, Landyman said:

 Now have correct mixture in the Alde system and no air.  

Have looked at air gaps behind seats at front and they appear to be about 19mm.  Looked at unscrewing the seat backs but screws are hidden behind seat buttons.  I’ve attacked one but its resisting, don’t want to damage them so how are they attached? Many thanks in advance.

 

Yes they are covered by seat buttons.  However, I took the stance that the entire area of the backs on all 4 seats is covered by the seat backs so I just forcibly removed them and then unscrewed them.  The screws are separate to the hammer-in buttons.  Just use pump pliers and yank them out.  I genuinely believe it would be nigh on impossible to re-use the buttons.  When I got round to screwing in the knobs, because the covering on the board is reasonably thick, the screws partially embed themselves and are hardly noticeable. If that bothers you, you could always use the correct size mirror screw and button. 

You say 19mm but if yours is anything like mine, the boards will have bends caused through leaning back and have further reduction.

THIS  is the sort of knob I used - came in packs of 10.

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It's all very well opening the ventilation board gap, but is there a large enough gap behind any framework for the seat base?

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4 hours ago, Black Grouse said:

It's all very well opening the ventilation board gap, but is there a large enough gap behind any framework for the seat base?

 

The gap there is greater but not 30mm.  However, that gap is less than an inch above the fins and following my mods the improvement in air flow has been significant.  The back of the boards which, in some places, were almost touching the wall, is partially covered with 'lumpy' (new technical term) material which also doesn't help.

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