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Motor mover / battery issues


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I tried to choose the Motor Mover forum but that choice was greyed out so I have placed this here. 

 

My son has a Bailey Ranger 440/4, bought second hand. It has a motor mover. He was warned by the seller that the battery would need recharging before the MM would work. 

 

We felt the battery was too small to run a MM anyway, but he fully charged the battery and sure enough, nothing happened. Our first thoughts were that the MM was broken, but when my husband connected it via jump leads to his car battery with the car motor running, the MM worked just fine!

 

Encouraged by this, my son bought a  heavy duty 12V, 110 AH leisure battery, fully charged it and tried again with the battery placed close to the MM unit. The MM didn't do anything. 

 

Anyone know why it would work with jump leads attached to a car's battery and yet not when connected to a brand new fully charged 110amp battery? 

 

Maybe we've missed something really obvious or maybe the electrics are faulty. Who knows!.... Anyone? 

 

 

Admin comment:

As this was your first posting on the forum we like to encourage members to say "hello" in the introductions section first, therefore some areas are not accessible immediately to post in but there is no restriction for the "Movers" section. Your post is now in the correct section, so we welcome you to Caravan Talk.

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Are you connecting the battery direct to the mover or to the battery compartment leads?

Is the mover master switch "on"  (usually a plastic key next to the mains input socket)?

 

Even a small battery will turn a motor mover motor if its not applied to the wheels.

 

 

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does the mover mechanism operate without the wheel drivers engaged? If it does then it eould suggest voltage drop somewhere in the cabling.

Nissan X-Trail Tekna + Coachman Festival 450

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Motor movers take a pretty high starting current and are susceptible to dirty, corroded or poorly made connections so you do need to make sure that all connections - including the ones on the battery are clean and tight with no corrosion.

 

Spend some time, checking all the connections (including those inside the control box and on the motors)and remaking any that are a bit iffy. Frequently the battery connections are just shoved in under the screws and can work loose, so take them to bits and remake them.

 

Replace the battery in the remote control and make sure that the caravan battery is fully charged - the fact that it's brand new doesn't mean that its fully charged. Ideally connect it to a smart charger, but failing that leave the van connected to the mains for 24 hours. DO NOT TRY THE MOVER WITH THE MAINS CONNECTED you risk damaging the power supply or blowing fuses.

 

If you've got a multimeter you can check the voltages to make sure that the battery is OK by measuring across the battery - it should be around 12.7 with the mover switched off and about 12v when it's moving the van. Some movers will shut off if the voltage drops below 12v = be careful that you watch where the van is going (look upwards as well) - get a second person to check the meter.

2018 S-Max Titanium 2. 0 Tdci (177. 54bhp,180ps,132kw) Powershift + 2015 Unicorn III Cadz, Ventura Marlin porch awning

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Some movers need resetting if the battery has been flat for a while ;)

Paul B

. .......Mondeo Estate & Elddis Avanté 505 (Tobago)

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There is (or should be) an 80A or similar fuse between the battery and the motor mover isolator switch.

I would start by making sure that it is good.

Ssangyong Korando Sports SX / Adria Altea 472DS Eden

 

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I know with mine I made mistakes, I assumed a battery isolator would isolate the battery, wrong, it only isolated the motor mover, so I would suspect some where there is a battery isolator which is turned off or faulty and your jump leads bypassed it.

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Thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions. Turned out to be corroded connections! Works like a dream now 👍

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