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stedavey

Adding USB sockets

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Hi guys a little advise needed please.

 

I've bought some USB port to add to my caravan ( you know what kids are like for charging phones and iPads etc ) 

To install these I bought some cable from Ebay but now its come it looks a little small and kinda worrys me although it might be right but just wanted to check what you all say.

 

The cable I ordered is 

 

 

Thin wall 0. 5mm 

12v 

11amps 

 

This is the Ebay item number 

142493025743

 

Does that sound about right ? 

 

Thanks in advance 

Edited by stedavey

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Should be OK as long as you one run separate cables to each outlet from the fuse box/battery

 

Don't try daisy chaining them

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Yea was going to run one cabe from battery to 10amp fuse then from fuse to a switch ( to save battery drain when USB not in use as it has a light on it ) then switch to USB. .... and negative strait from battery to USB 

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I assume you'll be wiring into an existing 12v circuit - I would suggest that you check what fuse that circuit has at the consumer unit

I would suggest that your cable has to be a higher rating than that fuse (otherwise your cable might catch fire before the fuse goes)  - I've seen vehicle fires where the cable was rated lower than the fuse

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3 minutes ago, david128 said:

I assume you'll be wiring into an existing 12v circuit - I would suggest that you check what fuse that circuit has at the consumer unit

I would suggest that your cable has to be a higher rating than that fuse (otherwise your cable might catch fire before the fuse goes)  - I've seen vehicle fires where the cable was rated lower than the fuse

The cable is rated 11amp the fuse will be 10amp or 5 amp 

 

 going to run one cabe from battery to 10amp fuse then from fuse to a switch ( to save battery drain when USB not in use as it has a light on it ) then switch to USB. . ... and negative strait from battery to USB 

Edited by stedavey

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12 minutes ago, stedavey said:

No they are mains powered.  

 

I'm fitting 12v for off grid use 

Yes well that would make it a bit hard to charge them with those sockets :)

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2 hours ago, stedavey said:

I'm fitting 12v for off grid use 

How about one of these (or similar), assuming you have 12v charging sockets.  https://www. amazon. co. uk/AUKEY-Charger-Adaptor-Protection-Samsung-Black/dp/B00M6Q83B4/ref=sr_1_10?s=telephone&ie=UTF8&qid=1549397050&sr=1-10&keywords=usb+car+charger

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I’m about to fit a Berker twin usb socket to one of my blanks.  I’m taking a feed from an existing 12v socket using piggy backs and adding an inline fuse.

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8 hours ago, DugB said:

I’m about to fit a Berker twin usb socket to one of my blanks.  I’m taking a feed from an existing 12v socket using piggy backs and adding an inline fuse.

I did the same, but managed to decipher the wiring diagram in the handbook and found a couple of pins on the back of the 12v fuse panel set aside, ready fused, for that purpose on the next model up the range.

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I thought a USB socket output was 5 volts? If so, your 12+ volts off grid needs to be stepped down . This is built into a standard car charging adapter.

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If you already have an existing blank plate.  The you could buy something like this.  Dual usb soscket      And fit.   (That was a random example grabbed off the web so might not be the cheapest!).  The only downside with these is the irritating blue led power light.  

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18 minutes ago, fred said:

If you already have an existing blank plate.  The you could buy something like this.  Dual usb soscket      And fit.   (That was a random example grabbed off the web so might not be the cheapest!).  The only downside with these is the irritating blue led power light.  

 

I've fitted 3 of these, daisy chaining off existing 12v cig lighter style plugs. It was only when I went to bed that those little blue LEDs put out ALOT of light.   Luckily mine came with covers but that stops you using them to charge stuff overnight. I have no idea why the LED is there but I've struggled to find the same style without them

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22 minutes ago, anthdci said:

 

I've fitted 3 of these, daisy chaining off existing 12v cig lighter style plugs. It was only when I went to bed that those little blue LEDs put out ALOT of light.   Luckily mine came with covers but that stops you using them to charge stuff overnight. I have no idea why the LED is there but I've struggled to find the same style without them

If you really are not bothered about having the lights, could you not stick some black insulation tape over them or dab a little Airfix or similar paint over them??

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29 minutes ago, kiaboy said:

If you really are not bothered about having the lights, could you not stick some black insulation tape over them or dab a little Airfix or similar paint over them??

 

That was my next idea, looks like a bit of a bodge though.  

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2 hours ago, anthdci said:

 

That was my next idea, looks like a bit of a bodge though.  

 

I use these in the bedroom at home;

 

https://www. amazon. co. uk/Blocking-Stickers-Electronics-Appliances-MySpyBlocker-black/dp/B071S7FB1B/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1549543870&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=lightdims

 

I appreciate that sounds worrying prior to clicking the link!

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If you already have 12v spots fitted you could swap them for these dimmable led spots with 2A USB outlet, they are what Bailey fit. I retro fitted them as it saves running extra wires.

The price from Baileys is well over the top at £38. 99 (Now Prima Leisure)

 https://www. primaleisure. com/product/1010271

Or exactly the same unit (MENSA 1 SMD Dimming Spotlight with switch and USB port) from an alternative supplier at £17. 88

 https://www. halesowencaravancentre. com/mensa-1-smd-dimming-ledspotlight-with-usb-port-12208-p. asp

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22 minutes ago, Joeblogs said:

If you already have 12v spots fitted you could swap them for these dimmable led spots with 2A USB outlet, they are what Bailey fit. I retro fitted them as it saves running extra wires.

The price from Baileys is well over the top at £38. 99 (Now Prima Leisure)

 https://www. primaleisure. com/product/1010271

Or exactly the same unit (MENSA 1 SMD Dimming Spotlight with switch and USB port) from an alternative supplier at £17. 88

 https://www. halesowencaravancentre. com/mensa-1-smd-dimming-ledspotlight-with-usb-port-12208-p. asp

That's what I've fitted to my van, they reduce all the faffing about trying find the internal wiring in the van - just connected to the existing lighting wiring . I paid about £18 each for them but I can't remember where from.

 

The light is a bit whiter than that from the existing lights in the van but that's not a problem and the dimming feature is quite nice and we can put the stuff thats on charge on the shelf above the lights avoiding trailing usb cables.

 

Our MiFi unit plugs straight in and sits up on the shelf out of the way as well.

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2 hours ago, Joeblogs said:

If you already have 12v spots fitted you could swap them for these dimmable led spots with 2A USB outlet, they are what Bailey fit. I retro fitted them as it saves running extra wires.

The price from Baileys is well over the top at £38. 99 (Now Prima Leisure)

 https://www. primaleisure. com/product/1010271

Or exactly the same unit (MENSA 1 SMD Dimming Spotlight with switch and USB port) from an alternative supplier at £17. 88

 https://www. halesowencaravancentre. com/mensa-1-smd-dimming-ledspotlight-with-usb-port-12208-p. asp

 

nice, the ones i have fitted are at the front of the van where the TV can go, i was trying to figure out the best place to pinch a 12v feed at the rear for bedside chargers. I think I'll just swap my lights with these, it'll work very nicely.  

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STOP STOP STOP

0. 5mm cable is rated 3A only - and that is in free air. If it is enclosed or attached to a tray the rating drops.

0. 75m cable is rated 6A, and 1mm cable is rated 10A.

It depends upon what device is being charged, but an iPad Air for instance can pull over 2A when charging from flat which is why many USB adapters and/or mains chargers are rated 2A or more. I would suggest using thicker 1mm cable and fusing the supply at 5A. That way you can have more than one socket on a cable but still avoid overheating the it.

 

Remember a fuse is present to protect the CABLE not the equipment on the end of it.

Edited by Woodentop

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1 hour ago, Woodentop said:

STOP STOP STOP

0. 5mm cable is rated 3A only - and that is in free air. If it is enclosed or attached to a tray the rating drops.

0. 75m cable is rated 6A, and 1mm cable is rated 10A.

It depends upon what device is being charged, but an iPad Air for instance can pull over 2A when charging from flat which is why many USB adapters and/or mains chargers are rated 2A or more. I would suggest using thicker 1mm cable and fusing the supply at 5A. That way you can have more than one socket on a cable but still avoid overheating the it.

 

Remember a fuse is present to protect the CABLE not the equipment on the end of it.

Not according to the regulations and the thin wall insulation is even higher current rating. I agree with you that volts drop *may* be a significant factor. A slightly thicker cable would be beneficial too with the mechanical strength, vibration etc.

 

The mains chargers are rating their output eg 5v @ 2A which is 5w, at 13v input and a slight reduction for efficiency thats around 0. 4A

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We already have a USB point however it is insufficient where it is located so adding a 4 way splitter for the 2 phones, the Mifi and Bose speaker.   Compact and neat!

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All done now.  

 

Here's what I did.  

 

I came from the battery directly with a 2mm - 25Amp cable strait I to a fuse board. ( each connection I've fused at 5amp ) 

 

From the fuse board I ran 2 separate cables for two separate double USB ports again with 25amp cable strait into a switch then into the USB sockets.

 

I know 25amp cable is over kill but hey safe that way right ?

 

The USB ports  have a 1amp port and a 2. 1amp port so only ever pulling 3. 3amps at a time . ... 

 

Hope that makes sense.  

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9 hours ago, stedavey said:

I came from the battery directly with a 2mm - 25Amp cable strait I to a fuse board. ( each connection I've fused at 5amp ) 

You did put an inline fuse as close as possible to the battery? If not you really should, if that 25 amp cable gets damaged theres a potential fire issue.

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