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Stephen McLaughlin

Leaking skylight.

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Hi my HOBBY Prestige 650 has developed a leak in the skylight above the static bed.  

Have searched the web for videos showing how to remove.   There are many videos for pop up windows but none detail the HOBBY.   I've tried removing some of the plastic covers from inside but they don't want to move.   Can't see any screws & dont want to break anything.   So going to hold back until I understand the assembly better.   Would appreciate id anyone can help.  

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Stephen,

If it is the standard square skylight as we have in the bedroom of our Hobby 540, if you look at the frame where it is butted up to the ceiling you should see  small circular cap  at each corner. Prize them out, (I usually use a pin so as not to damage the cap), you will see a screw in each hole. If you remove the screws it will separate the inner and out frames. You'll then have to get to the roof and cut through the mastic. Once you've done that the out section should lift free allowing you to clean all the old mastic off. Whatever you do don't apply sealant! When I did this job on our old Lunar I bought a roll of mastic tape from a caravan  dealer It did the job perfectly and no further problem.

I hope this helps.

 

Gordon

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Thanks Gordon, will check again today.   Studied in detail recently but could not see any circular caps.   Will check again a little closer this time:).  Will also take photos to share if no luck.   It is a square small skylight as you describe.

 

In relation to mastic tape, how do you lay it without overlapping that prevents a leak path?

 

 

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Looked again Gordon no evidence of any plastic caps.   Have attached photos hopefully somebody can help.

 

 

caravan skylightIMG_4991[1].JPG

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That looks like a smaller version of the one over our kitchen unit.   Is that insert on the long side a light and is there another on the opposite side? If they are lights I've just checked  them on our 'van and if you remove the covers you should see screws holding it to the roof. The mastic is laid so that cut ends butt up together. It is so thick that if you overlap it the skylight may not tighten down properly. Just make sure that as you stick it to the rook you don't stretch it.

 

Gordon

Edited by Gordon7912
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We use a butyl tape on boat windows, and the joins on the corners should be cut as a "labarynthine" joint. .. i. e. not a straight line. I've used a "dovetail" type shape by overlaying the two pieces of tape, cutting the shape and removing opposite parts, so that it fits together.   Bit of a fiddle, but worth it. ..

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The panel on the long side is just a plastic cover, not a light.   The windows is made up as follows -

Cantilever stlye window opened with ratchet type winder, similar to car window winder.   Winder has also stopped working, plastic gears seem seem to be riding over one another probably through lack of use.  

Next sun black out screen.

Next mosquito mesh.

All configured in one assembly unit.  

What or how are your covers held on?  Do they slide out, or are there clips.   Tried prising the long covers, tried gently knocking them back but no movement:(

P. S.   Thanks for the advise on the method of laying the mastic to you both.

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Do the 2 ‘plain’ side panels on the interior surround just pull off? I just replaced my skylight ironically and this is how the MPK 400 x 400 rooflight surround was fitted. Under the 2 outer surrounds were 4 screws.

If you are intending to refit the skylight you will likely require the mastic strip but if you are renewing then the newer style MPK and Seitz 400 x 400 rooflights are designed to have a wide bead of sealant (soudal Fix-all or Sikaflex) applied to a channel in the flange of the outer frame ie not mastic on a roll to fix/seal them.

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Depending on which type skylight you have i have re sealed several over the years normally the inner part is held in place by a ball and socket arrangement which just allows  the two parts to separate, they do take a bit of pressure to part them but once started it does part complete,when the inside part is removed there are screwed brackets holding the top part in place remove these then clean thourally the roof and top part i use silkafix to re seal 

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Just a point about using Sikaflex from using it in a REALLY important application (underwater on boats :D), it is important to use the Sika cleaning product, and also use a Sika primer when "re-Sikaflexing" something. ..

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Some very heavy rain in the last few days, priority now immediate.   Concern is now how to scaffold around van so I can get access to top of roof.   Skylight is in the middle.   Going to have to brace ladders over roof to try & spread load.   Structurally roof can not be walked on?  Is this correct?

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Also with Sika. .. don't bolt screw up tight when you install to ensure there is a fillet of Sika, tighten at least 24 hrs later. ..

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Can you not get to it from each side with a ladder against awning rail BUT, DO protect the awning rail from damage with ideally some foam pipe insulation tube cut down its length and then refitted to the ladder where it touches the awning rail and held in place with insulation tape or cable tie which will spread the load/prevent damage to the awning rail PLUS stop ladder from slipping.

I found I could get good controlled pressure on a sharpened strong wallpaper scraper when in line with the flange of the skylight from the ladder and could lean across working from each side and then remove.

As has been said cleaning the area of the roof thoroughly (plus the flange on the skylight if re-using it) is paramount.

I had both a mini and midi heki removed and replaced on my caravan by the local AWS engineer in Sept and he worked from each side. He also abraded the sealant channels around the flanges on the new rooflights very slightly (to aid adhesion) before cleaning thoroughly and then refitting.

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I am 17 stone in weight and walk with no problem on the roof of our 650WFU Hobby i have also done the same on all five hobbies i have owned over the years

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Thanks everyone for the great advice.  

Ilrides, you have walked on the roof of your HOBBY WOW.   Is the roof  Aluminium structure.    I know the chasis is metal but thought caravan structure would have been wood overlayed with aluminium strip.  

 

If there is lull in the "storm" this w/end I believe I have enough technical data to attempt.   I will photograph / video & upload if successful.

 

Final question to you guys, does anyone know of a HOBBY breaker/dismantler in the UK.   I notice new parts for HOBBY are a horrendous price.

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3 hours ago, Stephen McLaughlin said:

Thanks everyone for the great advice.  

Ilrides, you have walked on the roof of your HOBBY WOW.   Is the roof  Aluminium structure.    I know the chasis is metal but thought caravan structure would have been wood overlayed with aluminium strip.  

 

If there is lull in the "storm" this w/end I believe I have enough technical data to attempt.   I will photograph / video & upload if successful.

 

Final question to you guys, does anyone know of a HOBBY breaker/dismantler in the UK.   I notice new parts for HOBBY are a horrendous price.

As IIrides says they are standonable. ( new word )

 

If you put a ladder up you'll notice there are no dips and hollows in the aluminium like most caravans, then if you push down with your hand there is no movement, whatever the roof construction is it certainly feels as sturdy as the floor.

 

A couple of friends on the site where I am simply clamber on to the roof with the cleaning brush, bucket of shampoo and give it a good scrub when required, one gets up at least a couple of times a year because he can't stand dirty roof lights. :rolleyes:

 

Being mechanically sympathetic, the odd time I've needed to do anything roof wise ( no leaks ) I've used a couple of scaffold boards awning rail to awning rail to spread the load, though at 10. 5 stone it's belt and braces.

 

Ref. Hobby breakers and dismantlers, I don't think there are any just specific to the Hobby marque, you jut have to keep looking through the general caravan breakers who appear to get the odd one in now and then and yes Hobby part prices can be frightening and take a while to get delivered.

 

There are sometimes ways around using Hobby bits, for example my all singing dancing  3 way fridge freezer started playing up, parts to repair approx. £400, to replace it was in excess of £800 !

 

Solution, I found a new fridge freezer, 5 year guarantee, that would fit in the enclosure, half a day had the old one out and new one which was delivered to site up and running, it was very slightly narrower so a bit of wood work and staining and polishing to do and it's perfect, yes it's mains only, however I never used it on 12v ( never towed ) nor on gas, it cost the grand sum of around £200 and it does exactly what the £800 one would do keeps stuff cold and frozen. :D

 

On a similar vein, one Hobby owner on the site had problems with one of his roof lights, the ones that lift up and slide back, it was stiff, he's of the ' give it a good pull and it'll work ' mind, wrong, he completely destroyed the slides, dropped cork legged when he found out the Hobby price and lead time, sourced a Heki one just slightly oversize, again half a days careful work with general woodworking tools by the two of us and he had a cheaper and better option with the advantage of readily available and reasonably priced spares.

 

 

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As the rooflight is something that could be damaged and you would then have to replace it, I'd use a non-setting mastic, I have a lot of faith in Hodgsons sealants their Seamseal CV would be my choice https://hodgsonsealants.com/product-range/mastics/seamseal-cv/

 

 

eam 

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4 hours ago, Silversurf said:

As IIrides says they are standonable. ( new word )

My Hobby 540 even has a ladder and roof bars. The hand book says that you can stand on the roof but not to walk on it 'Freehanded'. I take that to mean unsupported, to prevent falls.

 

Gordon

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8 minutes ago, Gordon7912 said:

My Hobby 540 even has a ladder and roof bars. The hand book says that you can stand on the roof but not to walk on it 'Freehanded'. I take that to mean unsupported, to prevent falls.

 

Gordon

 

I've seen two women standing on a Hobby roof washing it!  I often stood on my Hobby(s) roof until old age took over.

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Well got stuck into my sunlight over the w/end (between showers).  Everyone was right you can walk on the roof of a HOBBY.   I didn't know that, but treaded very carefully spreading my weight as much as possible.   VOLVOVANNER was right skylight cosmetic cover is secured with a ball & socket configuration that pulls away with a little effort.   The skylight is then secured to the roof panel by four aluminium brackets.    Removed the four brackets & then proceeded to the roof.   The light was heavily siliconed into place.   So took a lot of peeling back with very sharp knife before I could attempt to lift light.   Had to remove skylight lid by drilling out pop rivets to really get all silicone.   Winder heavily corroded & not working.   Eventually able to lift remainder of assembly.   In the short-term I have siliconed down a sheet of perspex covered over with polythene taped down with weights in the corner.   Again VOLVOVANNER was right the opening in the roof is 400X400 so may be able to get a non HOBBY replacement.   But looking now for the correct sealant & a replacement window winder (photos attached).  While up there I noticed a corner missing from the lid on the light over the en-suite but this roof is not leaking.   My HOBBY is a "wet" van en-suite is bigger than bedroom in my home LOL.   Have to look for one of those too.   Colleague told me to start going to demolition derby's to canabalise vans before they are totalled in the race.   Might try that as there are two stock car rally venues withing 40 mile radius.   Anybody out there has a winder the same as the attached I would be interested.   Thanks again to everyone for the help.

IMG_4999.JPG

IMG_5025.JPG

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When you use a different sealant MAKE SURE you use silicone sealant remover extensively.   Silicone sealant will stop anything sticking to it. ..

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