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Maverick777

DIY ALDE Heating Anti-freeze system change? Help Please!

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1 hour ago, Paul_B said:

 

I was due to change my car antifreeze this wet n windy weekend, but combined this with trouble I'll have getting rid of the old antifreeze I decided to book it into a garage.

 

I've rebuilt and changed 1000s of radiators so the decision didn't come easy, however age seems to have :rolleyes: and paying £40 seems a small price to pay.

 

Like many of seven decades I ran bangers on a shoestring budget then built and raced cars-including fabricating radiators.

Well used to lying on ice at 2am changing a clutch on the worlds worst/ugliest car-the Maestro!

There comes a time when its best to put the caravan into Duncan’s of Wishaw and head on down The Lanark Valley to see the wonderful winter colours and have a nice afternoon tea at Gouldings http://gouldingsgardencentre. com/

while the youngsters do the anti freeze and annual service.

They unhitch and rehitch the caravan after service& remove and refit the tow cover.

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FWIW I've just changed the fluid in my 2016 Barcelona, and found it a fairly easy task.

 

I made up a rig with an old Whale on-board water pump using clear braided 13mm hose, fitted to short stubs of 22mm copper pipe. The header tank lifts off the rubber joining hoses in the van, and the 22mm copper pipe drops into them and the clips refitted.

 

The drain point is under the rear of the van mounted centrally. Removing the bung over a 3 gallon bucket released a little under half the total fluid after which I replaced the bung. Use Mole grips to remove and refit the pipe clips both on the header tank and bung.

 

I bought 10 litres each of Comma G13 concentrate and deionised water. I mixed 10 litres of anti-freeze at a time in a washed out Ad-Blu container by adding 5 litres of the de-ionised water and adding the concentrate. Then I simply pumped in the new fluid into the left hand header tank hose fitting (there's a one way valve in the main circuit) while watching the outflow into the 3 gallon bucket for colour change. I just used crocodile clips onto a 12v battery for the pump. I used old small G-clamps on the bucket to pass the hose through so I didn't spill any fluid, but I took up the carpets first just in case.

 

10 litres wasn't enough to flush out all the old fluid so I mixed up another 10 litres, putting about 1. 5l aside for top up. I probably used more fluid than necessary. Once satisfied the colour change was complete I disconnected the pipework and refitted the header tank, topped it up and bled the radiators. I found 3 bleed points, 1 under the wall side at the head of the bed, one on the LHS front rad just inside the door, and the washroom rad. They are all finger tight.

 

The Alde rig has a changeover valve that allows their pump to circulate fluid for bleeding, but as I have a boiler mounted pump I turned that up to full and it took about 20 minutes till any gurgling stopped. Once the heating worked OK I returned the pump to setting 2.

 

If you're of a practical nature you won't find it difficult. Mine was all done while in storage and took about 2. 5 hours. Some of that was finding the drain bung and wresting the bung out of the pipe. Tip is to push the clip up the pipe before refitting the bung otherwise it's tough to get back in.

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I changed my fluid.

 

Expansion tank in wardrobe with pump stuck in it, dead easy, honestly.

 

Wood trim off, drain expansion tank, tank off.

 

Connect pipe for waste fluid from pipe at base of header tank pump, connect remaining pipe to your pump.

 

Pump threw distilled water until waste runs clear.

Reconnect system, run for 15minutes ish.

 

Mix your desired amount of replacement fluid with g40/distilled water, I did 50 50. Pump again.

 

Reconnect, top up with concentrate, run for 15 minutes, 

 

Finished. 30 minutes actual work, 30 minutes coffee time 

 

I used a cordless drill, a drill mounted pump, two lengths of hose pipe with gorilla tape wrapped round to make the diameter the same as Alde internal, one bucket, rags.

 

Bought water and g40 from Amazon.

 

The bleed valves on my system are at towel rad, and each front corner. Tilt van down via nose wheel, bleed rear, lift up bleed front.

 

If you have twin axle find a hill

 

Edited by Simple Life

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Ps.

 

I used joint pliers on the spring clips.

 

For me it wasn't about saving money, both dealers near to me didn't want to do the job, and to do it myself was far more convenient.

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Did mine last year, very similar to above. No problems. The key is to use a small fluid pump rather than relying on gravity by draining down. I bought one for £10 from towsure.

I was amazed at the poor condition of the old fluid in the bucket and how much better the heating was afterwards.

 

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11 minutes ago, perksm said:

Did mine last year, very similar to above. No problems. The key is to use a small fluid pump rather than relying on gravity by draining down. I bought one for £10 from towsure.

I was amazed at the poor condition of the old fluid in the bucket and how much better the heating was afterwards.

 

 

With the metals involved here I am extremely surprised that the removed fluid, if changed on time, looked or could have behaved any differently to the new stuff. The real area of challenge for the corrosion inhibitor IMO would be the aluminium alloy burner tube buried in the centre of the boiler. If that contaminated the fluid too an extent to be marked it does not bode well for its condition at all.

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I think I will stick with a blown air system.

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