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spreadercraig

Full Rewire

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Hi all.

I have a diagram of what I thought was a full rewire but I'm unsure about the power from the car battery.

The diagram says to use a 16mm cable but I have the old 7 pin connectors. ..here it is. ..

 

 

caravanwiring.jpg.42eb6a259feee0f9017eef847161d8b7.jpg

 

 

Can I wire the caravan like this if I upgrade to 13 pin connector?

Or can this type of rewire be done from the old 7 pin? 

Does anyone have a proper rewire diagram??

 

 

Cheers!

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Have a look at Caravan Chronicles to understand how the car and caravan are connected together to provide power to the caravan battery and to the fridge. This is done via 2. 5 mm² cables because the current demand is less than 25 amps.

 

The only use for 16 mm² cable in a caravan is to connect the leisure battery to a motor mover.

 

Caravan Chronicles

Edited by onewheelonmywagon
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In my caravan there are 5 relays, not sure it needs 5, but you would want at least two, your showing wiring for a motor caravan not a caravan. So in the main we include a main relay so one switch makes near everything dead, however think it's rather silly with my caravan having the remote switch where you need to fully enter the caravan to turn it on.

There is also a relay for water pump, I assume the pressure switch micro switch can't take the load?

The other three are to do with switching the supply from car to caravan.

On my caravan non ignition power works a relay switching internal lights from caravan battery to car battery.

And the ignition relay connects non ignition supply to caravan battery to charge it.

Some where you need a device to stop energy from caravan battery going into car battery, there are 4 methods regularly used.

1) Relay in car operated by alternator warning light or Aux terminal of ignition switch. This means batteries disconnected from each other at start up.

2) Voltage dependent relay does same thing but easier to wire.

3) Blocking diode, can't be used with most cars, as the voltage needs lifting 0. 6 volt to match drop across diodes.

4) DC to DC inverter this is the odd one out as fitted in caravan not the car.

The last option may charge the battery at 30A or more, so 2. 5mm is rated around 30A so right on the edge, 4mm would seem a better option but only for 2 of the 5 wires used to the S 7 Pin plug.

 

I have considered making my own fuse/relay box, but the ready made ones are neater, my caravan provides this wiring diagram, not perfect or exactly what is fitted, in real terms there are no 230 volt lights and the double pole relay is in fact two single pole relays. There is only one supply to radio, really you need two, one live all the time and one through master relay. The wiring in the main is inaccessible so to rewire would be a major job. It needs to be flex, and you need to trace, so I would use multi-core cable.   1076225793_WiringDiagram.thumb.jpg.5eef6be47c92f2cd7d20f7b732d8a059.jpg

 

 

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Great stuff thanks.

The van is currently fully stripped so all wiring is accessible.

 

I'll study the diagram tonight as I've found it difficult to find a good one online.

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Hi Craig

 

what is the make of the control panel ?

Dave

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12 hours ago, onewheelonmywagon said:

Have a look at Caravan Chronicles to understand how the car and caravan are connected together to provide power to the caravan battery and to the fridge. This is done via 2. 5 mm² cables because the current demand is less than 25 amps.

 

The only use for 16 mm² cable in a caravan is to connect the leisure battery to a motor mover.

 

Caravan Chronicles

 

Slight corretion: the 16mm cable is only used to connect the caravan battery to the mover control box - the cables to the mover are significantly thinner.

 

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My 2006 Bailey caravan has a wiring harness, which seems to be hidden from view and from access, into which the 12N and 12S harnesses are connected.

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6 hours ago, carabiker said:

Hi Craig

 

what is the make of the control panel ?

Dave

Hi Dave

Currently. ...an old Swift.

Phone wont let me upload a pic but I can do later

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This diagram seems to assume that there is no vehicle alternator, or even connection to a car (towing electrics), charging the battery(ies). With that in mind, why would you need a 100A fuse or 16mm2 cable going to the vehicle battery when the battery charger is only rated at 20A? This wiring diagram does not seem like a good fit for a caravan re-wire.

 

Personally, I'd be starting off with a good PDU, like one from BCA Group or similar, as your base then build up from there. I've not looked but I'm guessing an off-the-shelf PDU would come with a compatible wiring diagram.

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On 24/08/2018 at 11:27, carabiker said:

Hi Craig

 

what is the make of the control panel ?

Dave

I can't upload for some reason.

Its a Swift 2S4V unit

 

 

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Hi

Try this web site 12 volt Dc  you can down load the manuals  for Zig and others ie SYMPHONY SYSTEMS

The Panel may sat "swift "

zig often produced the panels and re-badged the model number to suit the van manuacturer

https://www. freewebs. com/12voltsdc/zigmanuals. htm

 

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9 hours ago, carabiker said:

Hi

Try this web site 12 volt Dc  you can down load the manuals  for Zig and others ie SYMPHONY SYSTEMS

The Panel may sat "swift "

zig often produced the panels and re-badged the model number to suit the van manuacturer

https://www. freewebs. com/12voltsdc/zigmanuals. htm

 

Thats perfect thanks

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