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Jammyjase

Static central heating

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I've been using static central heating but I don't know if it's better to set radiator valves to 2-3 or just put them on 5 and turn heating on and off as needed.  

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Use the radiator valves to set the individual room temperatures, the boiler thermostat so that the water gets hot enough to achieve those temperatures.

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Thanks. That's what I have been doing but someone said it was best to just set them all to 5 and turn on and off as needed. That doesn't seem right to me but just had to be sure. Thanks again.  

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just one more thing.   should i be turning the boiler temp up and down according to the outside temp.   for example if its freezing outside should it turn the boiler up to compensate and during hotter months turn it down as it will not need to heat radiators as hot.   there is not room thermostat on system by the way.

thanks

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16 minutes ago, Jammyjase said:

just one more thing.   should i be turning the boiler temp up and down according to the outside temp.   for example if its freezing outside should it turn the boiler up to compensate and during hotter months turn it down as it will not need to heat radiators as hot.   there is not room thermostat on system by the way.

thanks

I usually set the boiler temp to about 75% or thereabouts, if it's too low you lose out on efficiency, too high youre wasting heat. The thermostat should cater for varying outdoor temperatures, does your system have a room thermostat anywhere?

 

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no room thermostat.   just thermostat radiator valves in all the rooms.   the main bedroom one just doesnt seem to heat the room enough to turn itself off either.   is this because its not hot enough.   i have it set to 70 degrees at the moment.   as above i have noticed its only a problem on the really cold nights so i am thinking of putting it up to 80 when really cold to see if that makes any difference.   i just think its more of a waste having the heating on but sitting still feeling the cold.

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Turn the boiler temp up. If the main bed room is still not hot enough, (with the TRV fully open and all of the rad being hot), it could be that the rad is too small.

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yes thats what i was thinking as well.   it is a small radiator.   thanks for all the replies to this topic.   i think i know what i am going to do now.   just trial and error i think to find what works best for me.

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I added extra underfloor Celotex insulation (50mm thick) and put a skirt around the base of the van, made a big difference to reducing the heat loss.

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yes i have a skirt around van.   i am going to get an oil filled radiator but what kw is best for the van electrics.   i was looking at the 1. 5kw ones.   would that be ok

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10 minutes ago, Jammyjase said:

yes i have a skirt around van.   i am going to get an oil filled radiator but what kw is best for the van electrics.   i was looking at the 1. 5kw ones.   would that be ok

Dependant on the year of manufacture, but later static vans have a 230v 16a feed supply to the consumer unit, so your oil heater at 1. 5kw is 1500w / 230v = 6. 5a  so you have around 10a spare or (2,300w) 2. 3kw capacity left.

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thanks joblogs.   that little calculation really helped.   so i could get a 2kw heater as its only going to be used at nightime with no other heaters on.   its a new van.

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Just a quick note, there should not be TRVs on all the radiators, valves on one radiator should be left open all the time on a pressurised system running from a combi boiler so that if the TRVs closed the system does not become over pressurised if theboiler pump starts, this maybe the bathroom radiator.

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why do static caravans not have a room thermostat. its my first year and it seems odd that the boiler runs 24/7.

if there was a room stat like in a house it would switch off. 

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The receiver will still have to be wired in to the boiler, though. You can have the receiver fitted directly into the boiler if there is no room thermostat.

Residential park homes  have room thermostats - it seems short-sighted not to extend this to static caravans, with so many holiday parks now giving extended use through the winter periods.

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It was a fad to have all TRVs and no room stat at one time. 

However there's invariably a time switch of some sort to control on and off times for the CH (sometimes built in the boiler).  : read the manual : 

Some boilers incorporate a  safety'bypass loop' so TRVs on every radiator is then acceptable (you'll need to read the manual to see) but often the bathroom towel radiator is on all the time so performs that function.  Some installs have an adjustable bypass valve with frost protection thermostat, again allowing all rads to have TRVs.

 

Lockshield valve may need adjustment on the cooler radiator or a bigger radiator fitted (even single to double or double finned)?

 

Electrickery heating:  THAT will depend on what supply your park gives you.  In-Laws was only 6A incoming included in ground rent;  although if they went fully metered they could have had more.

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