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External Satalite Point

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Just back from ferrymeadows ( peterboro) and used a aerial lead through the window from the hook up point

To the TV. so I've made up a lead to connect a rf aerial lead to the external satalite point,

Not going away for a couple of weeks to try it, think it will work ?

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Only if you do it correctly.

 

The external point is not actually a satellite point - it's connected to outlet 3 of the aerial amplifier so you can actually watcjh TV in the awning.

 

To use it as an external imput you have to disconnect it from the amplifier and then either join it to the appropriate internal socket by disconnecting that and using an F type back-to-back.

 

You could connect it to the input of the aerial amplifier so that the tv appears at both the outlets in the van although you might have to turn the amp gain down

 

to use it as a satellite input, you have to disconnect it from the amplifier and connect it to your decoder, the TV then get connected to the decoder

 

I'll try and draw some diagrams

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Yes, if it is like mine, have done it, just use the correct 'F' sat plugs on the cable for external and internal sockets.

 

 

 

 

 

26851548201_18edeab1bd_z.jpg

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Assuming you mean the the external satellite connection by the 240 volt inlet then yes you can. Just connect to the satellite point by the tv point inside. I connected another tv in the bedroom by another satellite point so our grandson could watch in there while we watched in the lounge but for some reason it didn't like that arrangement and the tv in the bedroom wouldn't work .

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It's not like the above, it's like the drawing attached. Giving info about a different van just confuses

 

The Cadiz has only one input on the outside of the van and it's connected to the aerial amplifier.

post-11298-0-84194800-1498404787_thumb.png

Edited by matelodave
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Aha,cheers guys

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Matelodave's description above is correct, but the diagram while good misses out the best option from that : take the feed from the external connection (usually connected to outlet 3) and fasten it to the input of the amp. No need for back-to-back f-connectors, and that way the site aerial will feed both the bedroom and living area outlets. In theory the downside is that the radio is now dependent on the site feed, but in practice it seems to pick up sufficient to work.

 

NB the feeds are colour coded with a bit of insulation tape, but it seems to vary what lead is coded what colour - just work out which is which & remember.

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It's been a while since this very helpful thread started but I just read it and wanted to update a detail.

Relating to Satellite input:  in my recently purchased S4 Cadiz the great option Disco4 suggested (TV3 - Aerial into the Input feed) has no continuity through the AMP circuit. The screen carries through fine but the signal just doesn't seem to make it either powered on or off. For an EHU TV signal this will work well.

 

My potential solution to avoid altering the cabling all the time will be a  T-piece, 2 female - 1 male splitter on TV1 feed (output TV1 & TV3) which I think should allow either DTV or Sat/EHU input without fiddling with the cables.

Sat input would not need the booster to be powered on but if it was inadvertently on I'm not sure whether it could cause damage to the Sat dish or decoder circuit in the TV, does anybody know the answer to that?

 

 

Edited by PeteV

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What you suggest would work but the splitter will effectively place an additional 4 dB attenuator in circuit for either feed. That extra loss could make UHF reception poor or unusable on occasion form either source.

 

You'd also be wise to get a splitter with power pass on one leg only (to sat connector) and be aware the splitter is even more lossy when used for satellite IF.

 

A quick fit / push on F-plug on the TV 1 lead would  work better for making the swap easier? 

Edited by Rodders53
sat / power mods

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If the aerial amp is on and you are using a satellite feed there is a strong possibility that you may have an issue with cross modulation with lines across the screen.

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52 minutes ago, Durbanite said:

If the aerial amp is on and you are using a satellite feed there is a strong possibility that you may have an issue with cross modulation with lines across the screen.

Unlikely, unless the "sat" input were connected to an external UHF TV aerial or communal 'bollard' distribution system when it would cause problems.   It won't be lines across the screen, though (that was analogue cci = horizontal or aci = diagonal and cross-mod could be all sorts... with digital it will be blockiness/breakup or <no signal>.

 

With a Sat dish the IF is so far above the UHF frequencies it will be most unlikely to give any problems.

 

But it's a pretty bad idea to do it (use splitter as a combiner) and the quick-connect option I suggested will avoid any such potential issues for certain!

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More to the point, the satellite should NEVER be connected to amp for two reasons:

The sat box provides a power supply to the LNB (the box on the end of the arm) on the dish which varies according to which station is being watched - this could damage the amp if it has no d.c. blocking on the input;

The station choice also requires a 22KHz audio tone to get to the LNB which also would not get through the amp.

A sat receiver MUST always be connected directly to the LNB without splitters or amps en route.

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 :rotfl:

No dc block = short circuit to the sat receiver = it shuts down.  Remember the Status boxes are (now) aerial in -> splitter -> radio on 1, TV amp on other to variable attenuator to 2-way or 4 way splitter.  Inductive splitters are safe from any such DC stuff, as they are simple bits of wire.

 

(It's why I said power pass on one leg only would be wise ;) )

 

NB this is not going through the amp.  The suggestion is to use a splitter as a combiner of an output from the amp plus the sat external cable as the other both feeding to the TV 1 cable.

 

I'll say again it's a bad idea and a simple easy to plug in alternative would work better.

 

 

Edited by Rodders53

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On 22/09/2019 at 10:29, Rodders53 said:

Unlikely, unless the "sat" input were connected to an external UHF TV aerial or communal 'bollard' distribution system when it would cause problems.   It won't be lines across the screen, though (that was analogue cci = horizontal or aci = diagonal and cross-mod could be all sorts... with digital it will be blockiness/breakup or <no signal>.

 

With a Sat dish the IF is so far above the UHF frequencies it will be most unlikely to give any problems.

 

But it's a pretty bad idea to do it (use splitter as a combiner) and the quick-connect option I suggested will avoid any such potential issues for certain!

I should have been clearer.  If the satellite box is on the same frequency as a local signal, no matter how distance and the aerial amp is switched on, the picture will break up.  Thanks to Woodentop pointing this out to me sometime back.  Altered the frequency on the Sky box and no more issues.

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10 minutes ago, Durbanite said:

I should have been clearer.  If the satellite box is on the same frequency as a local signal, no matter how distance and the aerial amp is switched on, the picture will break up.  Thanks to Woodentop pointing this out to me sometime back.  Altered the frequency on the Sky box and no more issues.

This solution proposed of a splitter as combiner by PeteV was (as far as I can tell) never intended for use with a  UHF TV RF modulator output from a $ky box, as you describe, and is, therefore, a complete red herring!  It was to provide an input from an external dish/lnb to a sat receiver via the installed cabling!

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