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Alde Heating 3020. Temperature Issue

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Hello.

 

As far as we can tell, the video shows normal operation.

 

In the video the desired indoor temp is 22, the actual indoor temp is 22. 5. (We'll call the difference between these two ΔT.)

 

Also of note, the heating fluid is below operating temp.

 

So at +0. 5 ΔT, the pump should run for 66% of one cycle, and electric heating limit to 2 kW.

 

Once +1. 0 ΔT is reached, the pump should run for 0% of one cycle, and electric heating limit to 1 kW.

 

In the opposite direction, at +0. 0 ΔT the pump should run for 100% of one cycle, electric heating limit to 3 kW.

 

And of course, there are steps in between.

Edited by Alde UK
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Hello.

 

As far as we can tell, the video shows normal operation.

 

In the video the desired indoor temp is 22. 5, the actual indoor temp is 22. (We'll call the difference between these two ΔT.)

 

Also of note, the heating fluid is below operating temp.

 

So at +0. 5 ΔT, the pump should run for 66% of one cycle, and electric heating limit to 2 kW.

 

Once +1. 0 ΔT is reached, the pump should run for 0% of one cycle, and electric heating limit to 1 kW.

 

In the opposite direction, at +0. 0 ΔT the pump should run for 100% of one cycle, electric heating limit to 3 kW.

 

And of course, there are steps in between.

Sorry that's the wrong way round.

 

The desired temprature is 22C the actual is 22. 5C and the system turns on!

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Sorry that's the wrong way round.

 

The desired temprature is 22C the actual is 22. 5C and the system turns on!

I still think that's right. If it didn't turn on again the temperature would drop much more quickly giving a larger -ve excursion. It would be a bigger problem if it didn't turn off again within the 8 minute cycle.

 

So it's doing what it should, giving some heat input during the cycle to maintain temperature.

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Possibly, but still bloody annoying!

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So to recap then,

 

The Alde system turns on before the set desired temprature by 0. 5C at a reduced power input as pre programmed.

OK I get that.

 

Within the same cycle the pump will then turn off if the glycol drops below another value pre programmed.

OK I get that too.

 

So if the caravan temprature never rises or falls then the system will never ever ever move out of the loop it's now in!

 

Result in real life, pump on pump off and repeat all night long! Throw into the mix the pump is, and I say again, in the wardrobe next to my head.

 

If this is correct, Alde please enter another user selectable programme of a straight forward thermostat on off with whatever power 1 2 3 kw selected.

 

I think my electric underfloor heating in the conservatory has the option of straight on off, or a preprogrammed staged on off.

Edited by Simple Life

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Sorry yes, we've edited the above post to prevent future confusion.

 

But the ΔT programme is correct.

 

So in effect, as the actual temperature climbs passed the set desired temperature, the heating fades out.

 

It fades back in again as the temperature drops.

 

This means that your set desired temperature should exist somewhere in the mid-fade, making the temperature fluctuation least noticeable by the human body.

 

A hard stop/start creates very noticeable swings in temperature and doesn't reduce pump activity overall. It generally results in less comfortable and less efficient heating.

 

However, you can emulate this with a few accessories. An external switch cable (Alde part no. 3010-219) can be plugged into the system and wired into a 3rd party room thermostat, for example. With the Alde control panel set, the system will start up/shutdown using the room thermostat, including electric heating and pump.

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However, you can emulate this with a few accessories. An external switch cable (Alde part no. 3010-219) can be plugged into the system and wired into a 3rd party room thermostat, for example. With the Alde control panel set, the system will start up/shutdown using the room thermostat, including electric heating and pump.

Cheers that's probably what I will do.

Is it obvious as to where to plug the cable in to?

 

I'm guessing you don't do a room thermostat? Immediate thoughts a battery powered thermostat.

 

Edit

Had a look on the web at the cable will order one when we get home, away in dull dull Cornwall at mo.

 

Thank you for your help and advice, Mr,Mrs or Miss Alde.

Edited by Simple Life

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If making modifications, a better choice IMO is to fit the inline pump. Moves the pump away from your head and retains the more even temperature control.

 

I can't hear ours at night unless I'm awake and then I just hear the faintest gurgle when the pump first starts. Once in control I don't hear it.

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If making modifications, a better choice IMO is to fit the inline pump. Moves the pump away from your head and retains the more even temperature control.

 

I can't hear ours at night unless I'm awake and then I just hear the faintest gurgle when the pump first starts. Once in control I don't hear it.

Yes we have thought of doing this too the fluid will need changing before winter so an ideal time to swap over.

 

Suppose it's all about cost!

 

If I change the pump then in a couple of years if we decide to go for a smaller caravan, an option we are discussing, then that's money lost.

 

The cable is £7 and depending if I go wireless non programmable thermostat another £23 to £30, for a small investment we benefit from having the heating control in the bedroom at night.

 

Just looking for a suitable 0 volt switching rf thermostat. The receivers all work on 230 volts, but as we always go ehu not an issue.

 

Think I'm going down this route, a few minute job for me.

Edited by Simple Life

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You're welcome, Simple Life, we're here to help as best we can.

 

The Danfoss TP5000SI used to be popular with the 3000 Compact system, and can be used with the 3010 and 3020 series. It's battery-powered, like you say, and has extensive programmable time settings.

 

In the 3020 Compact HE system, the external switch cable plugs into the boiler at X18, also labelled D and "External Start".

 

But yes, if it's the noise from the pump location that's disturbing you, TinShack's solution would be more complete. The ideal time to fit an inline pump is during a fluid change, after the first two years, for example. Then regardless of what the temperature's doing at night, you're never disturbed.

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But yes, if it's the noise from the pump location that's disturbing you, TinShack's solution would be more complete. The ideal time to fit an inline pump is during a fluid change, after the first two years, for example. Then regardless of what the temperature's doing at night, you're never disturbed.

 

Maybe!

 

Our pump is in the header tank in the wardrobe - silent as long as it's seated properly - the boiler however is below my head when asleep so radiated heat was an issue initially until I put a couple of layers of camping mat under the bed slats - now all I hear is the clicking from the boiler, presumably the relays or water over-heat switch - additionally, the fan is noisy when set to gas - removing my hearing aids at night helps but it's rarely an undisturbed night!

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I can't really see the need for a zero volt switching relay unless it's just the silent operation you're looking for? As in an SSR?

 

Are the external contacts mains switching or signal level?

Edited by TinShack

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I can't really see the need for a zero volt switching relay unless it's just the silent operation you're looking for? As in an SSR?

 

Are the external contacts mains switching or signal level?

You will find that thermostats are mains operated with the switch live being common, therfore on equals +240 volts,

0 volt switches are simply relays that share no common, like a light switch, your finger being the electro magnet.

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Simple fix, sleep the other way round!☺☺😅😅😅

 

 

Maybe!

 

Our pump is in the header tank in the wardrobe - silent as long as it's seated properly - the boiler however is below my head when asleep so radiated heat was an issue initially until I put a couple of layers of camping mat under the bed slats - now all I hear is the clicking from the boiler, presumably the relays or water over-heat switch - additionally, the fan is noisy when set to gas - removing my hearing aids at night helps but it's rarely an undisturbed night!

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You're welcome, Simple Life, we're here to help as best we can.

 

The Danfoss TP5000SI used to be popular with the 3000 Compact system, and can be used with the 3010 and 3020 series. It's battery-powered, like you say, and has extensive programmable time settings.

 

In the 3020 Compact HE system, the external switch cable plugs into the boiler at X18, also labelled D and "External Start".

 

But yes, if it's the noise from the pump location that's disturbing you, TinShack's solution would be more complete. The ideal time to fit an inline pump is during a fluid change, after the first two years, for example. Then regardless of what the temperature's doing at night, you're never disturbed.

Whilst on the beach roasting, totally unexpected weather today in Cornwall, been mulling it over.

 

Pros and cons for either route, think I will give your good selves a call and price up the bits for a pump change when we get home and then make a final decision.

I mean if I change to a thermostat even tho the pump won't do that on off routine most of the night, it will still at some point come on.

 

I can do a pump swap myself watched a video didnt seem that problematic.

 

I need to give it more thought, could end up doing both, thanks again for the advice and time.

Edited by Simple Life

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Simple fix, sleep the other way round!☺☺

 

 

 

Not allowed - I'm "obliged" to sleep on the right, on the inside!

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Simple fix, sleep the other way round!☺☺

 

 

Not allowed - I'm "obliged" to sleep on the right, on the inside!

Put your claw down.☺

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additionally, the fan is noisy when set to gas - removing my hearing aids at night helps but it's rarely an undisturbed night!

 

We usually go on sites with EHU, but occasionally, will run the gas to make sure the fan does not seize for lack of use, and must say its like a jet engine starting up glad we are on EHU, I wonder how campers get on when of grid, do the neighbours get to sleep on a cold night :(

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We usually go on sites with EHU, but occasionally, will run the gas to make sure the fan does not seize for lack of use, and must say its like a jet engine starting up glad we are on EHU, I wonder how campers get on when of grid, do the neighbours get to sleep on a cold night :(

If it's making a din it could be faulty. Alde works best on dual fuel - you can set it to prioritise electric, only drawing on gas to get up to temperature.

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If it's making a din it could be faulty. Alde works best on dual fuel - you can set it to prioritise electric, only drawing on gas to get up to temperature.

I only use gas on two occasions - on an overnight stop without EHU - rapid warm-up on arrival on site in winter, using EHU as well - it's the former where the noise is noticeable

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We sleep just fine and the flue fan makes very little noise. Least way ours does. It is probably worth giving it ago as you say every so often on gas

 

I've followed this with interest and realise we are only playing at it. Though I have made and fitted a battery back up.

 

Remote sensors and battery thermostats are way out of my pay grade. We have ours set with three programs giving a slow warm up from 6. 30 am to 7. 30 am. To 18 deg. Then reverts to the day setting for most of the day about 22 deg if we are in, until about 11 pm. Then it clicks onto night setting with a drop in temperature and the water switched off.

 

We are off grid for about 60 % of the van usage. If the weather is not to cold then I have been known to just switch of the master as we leave ( saves on gas a little) and the Unicorn 3 is so quick to warm up (compared to the older ones) that by the time we have settled down on our return it's toasty again.

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If it's making a din it could be faulty. Alde works best on dual fuel - you can set it to prioritise electric, only drawing on gas to get up to temperature.

 

It must be OK as it has made the same noise since new and it was back at Alde in December, to have the in line pump fitted and 5 year fluid change, so they would have used the gas to warm the system up and would have heard it then, but never said anything. I already have the settings set as you have suggested, with the exception of the gas icon is off and selected manually. I find the system warms up to the desired temp settings without the use of gas TBH. that is why the gas is used infrequently except to run the fan and make sure the burner is OK. ..

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You will find that thermostats are mains operated with the switch live being common, therfore on equals +240 volts,

0 volt switches are simply relays that share no common, like a light switch, your finger being the electro magnet.

Ah I know those as 'volt free contacts'. 'Zero volt switching' to me refers to electronic relays that switch at the zero volt crossing of the AC waveform.

 

Sorted. Good luck.

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