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Alde Heating 3020. Temperature Issue

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Sat reading the instructions for use online, in the user book below 2. 3 in a Tip box it states the circulation pump should not activate unless the inside temprature drops to 10 C, that being the set temprature.

 

My circulation pump operates irrespective of room temperature!

 

5 hours sleep last night been up since 4. 30, pump off wait a few minutes pump on, pump off wait a few minutes pump on, and so on.

 

Too cold not to have heating on, thinking of going home, totally fed up all because of this Alde system.

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Just a thought - in the panel settings, what is your pump set to - "therm" or "cont"?

 

Is the panel set to 2kw or 3kw?

Edited by Pebble

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Just a thought - in the panel settings, what is your pump set to - "therm" or "cont"?

 

Is the panel set to 2kw or 3kw?

Pump is at therm and I've tried all the kw settings, had plenty of time 😤😤😤.

 

Off for a morning swim then on phone to Alde. Thanks anyway

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One thing I don't get about this. Our system is essentially silent and if the pump was switching on and off every 2 minutes I wouldn't notice it. I have to listen very hard to hear the pump running in an otherwise silent van. What does occasionally wake me up is the noise of what I assume is a solenoid attached to the gas valve when that first ignites but that is only once and when the heating starts up in the morning and not at regular intervals.

 

Like others have said you need to get your dealer involved anything Alde do is really a goodwill gesture.

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Phoned Alde told it was normal operation!

 

Best offer is to bring it to them for checking.

 

Possible cause is heat loss (Time of year) from van causing heating never to achieve the 0. 7 degrees above set temprature.

 

So I can see the logic of that, next step is either to change van, gulp 8 months old or pay for the pump to be fitted in boiler, which will move the noise as far away from my head as possible, perhaps have the 2 year fluid replaced to 5 year to absorb some of the cost. Also I'm wondering if we have the extra bedroom sensor fitted would that help as in two sleeping body's giving off heat?

 

Either way bad design having the pump in the wardrobe next to a person's sleeping head. Especially mine. Umph😣

 

Ps can't Alde have a button the screen to turn the 0. 7 over heat OFF.

Edited by Simple Life

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Phoned Alde told it was normal operation!

 

Best offer is to bring it to them for checking.

 

Possible cause is heat loss (Time of year) from van causing heating never to achieve the 0. 7 degrees above set temprature.

 

So I can see the logic of that, next step is either to change van, gulp 8 months old or pay for the pump to be fitted in boiler, which will move the noise as far away from my head as possible, perhaps have the 2 year fluid replaced to 5 year to absorb some of the cost.

 

Either way bad design having the pump in the wardrobe next to a person's sleeping head. Especially mine. Umph

I did exactly that as my header tank pump was getting noisy, having the inline pump fitted and fluid change at the sametime was the best money I spent I really have to listen out for the pump now even at night, Coachman now only fit the inline pump

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Ours has a boiler mounted pump and and it's almost silent - I have to get down and press my ear to the locker box to hear it during the day although you can just about hear a slight whine during the small hours when everything else is silent.

 

I really cannot understand why they still use the the header tank pump - it's probably cheaper than the boiler mounted unit

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I did exactly that as my header tank pump was getting noisy, having the inline pump fitted and fluid change at the sametime was the best money I spent I really have to listen out for the pump now even at night, Coachman now only fit the inline pump

How much?

Sorry for being blunt.

 

Mines a 2016 coachman is that on the 2017 vans?

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Why when the room temperature is above the set temprature does the pump turn on?

 

That can't be right, that's putting more heat into the room that is already hot enough. In my first post of this thread I complained about too much heat, this is obviously the cause.

 

Hello. The pump operation is determined by the desired indoor temperature vs the actual indoor temperature.

 

For example, at night you lower the desired temp to 10 deg C on the Alde control panel. If during the night, the temperature drops to between 10-11 deg C, the pump will activate for a short duration. If the temperature continues to drop, the active duration will increase.

 

If you find that the caravan just can't hold a temperature, especially one as low as 10 deg C, yet the fluids in the boiler are at temperature, you know the problem isn't insufficient power (otherwise the fluids would be cooler). So that points to a problem with heat emittance (the warm air isn't getting into the living space), or with the insulation (the warm air is escaping from the living space).

 

A rare fault can be if the cable laid between the Alde boiler and the circulation pump in the expansion tank is in contact, directly or indirectly with another electrical cable. Cables are often bundled together, so a staple piercing one cable can often pierce another, putting them both in contact. This can cause very aberrant behaviour where another appliance powers the circulation pump.

 

It might also be a good idea to absolutely confirm that it is the pump that's making the nuissance noise.

 

Your dealer should be able to investigate the issue, or if you're local to the East Midlands or passing through, booking in with us at Alde UK should have a positive result.

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How much?

Sorry for being blunt.

 

Mines a 2016 coachman is that on the 2017 vans?

Sent you a PM

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Solution for rest of holiday is forget all about the transverse bed, pump can have that, and make up the one at the front.

 

Can a dealer approved alde or a mobile fitter fit the pump to the boiler without buggering up the warranty?

Edited by Simple Life

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Solution for rest of holiday is forget all about the transverse bed, pump can have that, and make up the one at the front.

 

Can a dealer approved alde or a mobile fitter fit the pump to the boiler without buggering up the warranty?

 

Yes they can, and no it will not, but I think you will have to pay for the inline pump and fluid unless you can convince Alde or dealer it is covered in the warranty, all they will do is swap like for like. (exact words from Paul Stubbs at Coachman when I approached with my noisy pump)

Edited by kiaboy

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So I can see the logic of that, next step is either to change van, gulp 8 months old or pay for the pump to be fitted in boiler, which will move the noise as far away from my head as possible, perhaps have the 2 year fluid replaced to 5 year to absorb some of the cost. Also I'm wondering if we have the extra bedroom sensor fitted would that help as in two sleeping body's giving off heat?

[...]

Ps can't Alde have a button the screen to turn the 0. 7 over heat OFF.

Hello. A discrete temperature sensor will almost always give a more user-friendly temperature, simply because it can be located anywhere and accessibility isn't an issue.

 

In your case though, if it is the sound of the pump operating that's disturbing your sleep, the best option is to dampen the sound or relocate the pump if it's close to your head.

 

Sound damping is usually done with neoprene sheet, folded and packed behind the expansion tank. This absorbs vibration, preventing it from carrying into the mounting surface. Where the expansion tank is screwed into the mounting surface, the screws can be removed, holes filled with mastik. After drying, screwing into the mastik should absorb some vibration from the screws.

 

Relocating the pump is a simple enough job, best carried out when having a fluid change to save on labour cost.

 

As a side note, the pump activates above the desired temp so that the indoor temp doesn't drop below desired. Removing this fuction, the pump would just activate at a lower temp, achieving nothing that lowering the desired temp wouldn't, and resulting in an indoor temp that was less stable.

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Hello. A discrete temperature sensor will almost always give a more user-friendly temperature, simply because it can be located anywhere and accessibility isn't an issue.

 

In your case though, if it is the sound of the pump operating that's disturbing your sleep, the best option is to dampen the sound or relocate the pump if it's close to your head.

 

Sound damping is usually done with neoprene sheet, folded and packed behind the expansion tank. This absorbs vibration, preventing it from carrying into the mounting surface. Where the expansion tank is screwed into the mounting surface, the screws can be removed, holes filled with mastik. After drying, screwing into the mastik should absorb some vibration from the screws.

 

Relocating the pump is a simple enough job, best carried out when having a fluid change to save on labour cost.

 

As a side note, the pump activates above the desired temp so that the indoor temp doesn't drop below desired. Removing this fuction, the pump would just activate at a lower temp, achieving nothing that lowering the desired temp wouldn't, and resulting in an indoor temp that was less stable.

OK thanks, our first service is June time ish, we holiday all year round work permitting so I'm going to need a solution, the pump in the boiler is looking like the one we will go for.

I disagree regarding the over heat button idea, call it a winter button.

 

The reason being is that when the boiler is working upto desired temprature the currant used is 14 amps, when in the 0. 7 phase or top up phase it's drawing 5 amps, which isn't enough to get the heat in.

 

My opinion but hey spent enough time watching it

Hang on what if I use electric and wait for it gas combined. Hmm I wonder

I have read the current is reduced on combined fuel but at 5 amps thats got to be the lowest electric setting as there are 3 relays controlling amp flow.

Edited by Simple Life

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What Kw setting have you got the boiler set to,

 

1kw probably wont be enough to heat the van so the pump will run all day and all night, 2kw might heat the van and should allow the stat to control the heating,asumming that you've got enough radiator capacity. 3kw will probably be enough although you could running into a possible limitation of emmiter capacity.

 

If you dont have enough in the way of emitters or radiators or you've got stuff wodged into the lockers so the air can't circulate and the heat cant escape then the van wont get up to the thermostat temerature and the pump will keep running even though the fluid has reached operating temperature. Even putting both gas and leccy on at the same time may not do it if you dont have enough radiator capacity.

 

Have a measure up and see what length of finned piping you've got - they push out abouy 400w a metre, so you need at least 5 metres to dissipate 2000w and 7. 5metres to dissipate 3kw but that would be in free air not enclosed in the seat and bed boxes.

 

Look at ALDE's installation recommendations to see if your heating system is roughly about right.

 

Our van has about 8 metres plus a rad in the bathroom and vents where the piping runs under the front shelf so there's plenty of radiator capacity to dissipate the heat into the van. . There are also vent boards behind both front benches and at the sides of both single beds so the heated air can circulate quite freely. 2kw is more than enough even when the outside temperature is below freezing

Edited by matelodave
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What Kw setting have you got the boiler set to,

 

1kw probably wont be enough to heat the van so the pump will run all day and all night, 2kw might heat the van and should allow the stat to control the heating,asumming that you've got enough radiator capacity. 3kw will probably be enough although you could running into a possible limitation of emmiter capacity.

 

If you dont have enough in the way of emitters or radiators or you've got stuff wodged into the lockers so the air can't circulate and the heat cant escape then the van wont get up to the thermostat temerature and the pump will keep running even though the fluid has reached operating temperature. Even putting both gas and leccy on at the same time may not do it if you dont have enough radiator capacity.

 

Have a measure up and see what length of finned piping you've got - they push out abouy 400w a metre, so you need at least 5 metres to dissipate 2000w and 7. 5metres to dissipate 3kw but that would be in free air not enclosed in the seat and bed boxes.

 

Look at ALDE's installation recommendations to see if your heating system is roughly about right.

 

Our van has about 8 metres plus a rad in the bathroom and vents where the piping runs under the front shelf so there's plenty of radiator capacity to dissipate the heat into the van. . There are also vent boards behind both front benches and at the sides of both single beds so the heated air can circulate quite freely. 2kw is more than enough even when the outside temperature is below freezing

Had it mainly on 3kw.

 

I think I've nailed the issue down but still not ruling out a fault.

 

So if I set the room temp to 15 degrees, upto that temprature the current drawn is 14 amps ish, that's means all 3 relays on the boiler have clicked in and the element is operating at full power, and duly 5he caravan rises to 15 degrees.

 

At 15 degrees the boiler then reduces power to 5 amps to give the programmed 0. 7 degrees over heat, Alde say to maintain the interior. Problem Alde is saying is the heat loss is similar to heat gain which then has the pump going on for 2 minutes 30 then off for around the same then repeat all night long.

 

I'm still a little unconvinced but time and a few home tests will tell, there is plenty of time left on the warranty.

 

And with that sandwiches eaten back to the Devon coastal path into Torquay.☺

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Just out of interest,

 

Who puts the fluid in the system - the 'van manufacturer or the supplying dealer?

 

If it's the former, are the heating and water systems tested before they leave the factory or does the 'van manufacturer just hope for the best? I think I know the answer to this one ;) .

Edited by Pebble

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Just out of interest,

 

Who puts the fluid in the system - the 'van manufacturer or the supplying dealer?

 

If it's the former, are the heating and water systems tested before they leave the factory or does the 'van manufacturer just hope for the best? I think I know the answer to this one ;) .

Well Mr Pebble my shiny new Coachman came with a huge airlock, after a bit of head scratching found the 2 bleed valves not mentioned in the manual.

 

So I had the forsight, some would say geeky Ness, but I prefer the former I brought the caravan home directly from picking it up and slept in it that weekend, which let me test the systems.

 

The dealers sales rep said on handover that the pdi they do is second to non!

 

I also found a loose knob on the cooker, no big y, and under the van the waste pipe from the shower was detached, fixed that too.

 

Maybe a whole new thread on dealer handovers!

Edited by Simple Life
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Just out of interest,

 

Who puts the fluid in the system - the 'van manufacturer or the supplying dealer?

 

If it's the former, are the heating and water systems tested before they leave the factory or does the 'van manufacturer just hope for the best? I think I know the answer to this one ;) .

 

 

Well Mr Pebble my shiny new Coachman came with a huge airlock, after a bit of head scratching found the 2 bleed valves not mentioned in the manual.

 

So I had the forsight, some would say geeky Ness, but I prefer the former I brought the caravan home directly from picking it up and slept in it that weekend, which let me test the systems.

 

The dealers sales rep said on handover that the pdi they do is second to non!

 

I also found a loose knob on the cooker, no big y, and under the van the waste pipe from the shower was detached, fixed that too.

 

Maybe a whole new thread on dealer handovers!

 

That is interesting as I know that Coachman do test the systems before sending to the dealer as we were given a look in one during our personal factory visit at the rear of the factory (during collecting ours after repair work had been done) the inside was red hot not sure if the whole water system was checked TBH, but definitely the heating was on when we looked in and it wasn't part of the factory tour as I happened to ask the question so Trevor took both of us over to one on "soak test"

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That is interesting as I know that Coachman do test the systems before sending to the dealer as we were given a look in one during our personal factory visit at the rear of the factory (during collecting ours after repair work had been done) the inside was red hot not sure if the whole water system was checked TBH, but definitely the heating was on when we looked in and it wasn't part of the factory tour as I happened to ask the question so Trevor took both of us over to one on "soak test"

Maybe rather than testing everyone they pull one off the line now and again.

 

But yet again, whilst at home testing, remember the film Christine?, well I think I have the caravan equivalent, I was woke up in the early hours by lots of noise from the pump, so at 4 am I pulled the front of the van apart to find the bleed valves and basically lifted the caravan by hand nose up so far that the rear of the van was on the drive, then crawled up the floor to bleed the system, lots of hissing later dropped the front and bled the bathroom radiator.

 

So No I doubt very much Coachman test each and every caravan, nor the dealers pdi is that comprehensive.

 

Oh well the joys of our hobby, slowly getting there, our first really cold time away with this caravan and more lessons learnt.

 

At the very least I can pass on my new wisdom to my friend/friends.

 

Lesson 2 don't buy a caravan with Alde pump in the wardrobe. Tick.

Edited by Simple Life
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Maybe rather than testing everyone they pull one off the line now and again.

 

 

 

May be you are right, but that is what we were told, but we did see many vans in the back yard plugged in. .

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May be you are right, but that is what we were told, but we did see many vans in the back yard plugged in. .

We could both be right☺

I was sat thinking what happens to the glycol when a caravan is winched onto the back of a lorry, it's quite an angle, I wonder if it's possible for air to creep in?

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We could both be right☺

I was sat thinking what happens to the glycol when a caravan is winched onto the back of a lorry, it's quite an angle, I wonder if it's possible for air to creep in?

It can also be at quite an angle on the road going uphill. :rolleyes:

 

In the past there were some reported cases on CT forum of loss of heating fluid and or air entering the system.

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We could both be right☺

I was sat thinking what happens to the glycol when a caravan is winched onto the back of a lorry, it's quite an angle, I wonder if it's possible for air to creep in?

:goodpost:

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