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Simple Life

Alde Heating 3020. Temperature Issue

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I am trying to get my head arround this. If I go to my caravan and the temperature is 5 degrees and the set point is 20 degrees from a cold start does the pump run at 100% until the temperature monitor registers 20. Then it runs for a further 8 minutes at this point is it continually monitoring or does it take another temperature after 8 minutes and depending what that is relative to the set point, make a decision for the next 8 minute cycle. For instance if it has only increased by 0. 4c does it then run for a further 8 minutes at 100%? If it +0. 5 it then runs for an 8 minute cycle for 40 seconds per minute and so on? Is that correct ?

 

Hello there. The sampling programmes are more complex, and based on Alde research over the decades to determine what timings give the least discernable change to a human. So although a heating system can only make the temperature rise, and will not know precisely how quickly the temperature will drop, essential to the feeling of comfort is that we don't notice the change and that room temperature appears to be maintained.

 

Going more in-depth into the programming we encounter trade secrets, those things that would separate 50 years of Alde heating, from a rival just starting up, for example, so we can't go into further detail on that front, alas.

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The problem with a lot of vans is the positioning of the controller. - in mine fore instance the controller is on a panel behind the work top and there must be heating pipes under the units, so heat will rise from the pipes to affect the controller.

 

On a previous van the controller was on the panel at high level by the entrance door where it was not affected by the heating pipes but more so by the door being opened and closed. I guess that was the best

 

The worst I had is where the controller (Truma) was mounted on the box that carried the flue up through the ceiling, which used to get quite warm. Another was on the side of the wardrobe which housed the gas fire at it's base.

 

The ideal solution is a remote sensor, situated where it's representative of the van temperature, where where plenty of air can circulate around it but not in any draughts or where it is directly affected by heat from the heater, pipework, cooker, microwave, fridge or even the telly. That really doesn't leave many options in some vans.

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If I recall correctly there was a post on this forum where someone had drilled small hole in the control panel casing where the thermistor is located. This made the temperature reading on the control panel a whole lot more accurate. Unfortunately searching "ALDE" brings up too many results to find the post.

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If I recall correctly there was a post on this forum where someone had drilled small hole in the control panel casing where the thermistor is located. This made the temperature reading on the control panel a whole lot more accurate. Unfortunately searching "ALDE" brings up too many results to find the post.

I had a good look at my Alde 3020 control panel and can not find a hole on the bottom edge. The bottom does seem to a bevelled edge sloping from the front towards the wall plate. I'm wondering if it is a new design that allows air to flow up the back of the panel. Failing that, I may have a remote sensor?

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Durbanite, on 23 Nov 2016 - 3:22 PM, said:

If I recall correctly there was a post on this forum where someone had drilled small hole in the control panel casing where the thermistor is located. This made the temperature reading on the control panel a whole lot more accurate. Unfortunately searching "ALDE" brings up too many results to find the post.

 

http://www. caravantalk. co. uk/community/topic/117855-alde-touch-screen-improving-temperature-response/ :)

Seaman, on 23 Nov 2016 - 4:31 PM, said:Seaman, on 23 Nov 2016 - 4:31 PM, said:

I had a good look at my Alde 3020 control panel and can not find a hole on the bottom edge. The bottom does seem to a bevelled edge sloping from the front towards the wall plate. I'm wondering if it is a new design that allows air to flow up the back of the panel. Failing that, I may have a remote sensor?

 

No hole on the fascia, you have to drill one as per the above thread link ;)

Edited by Pebble
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If I recall correctly there was a post on this forum where someone had drilled small hole in the control panel casing where the thermistor is located. This made the temperature reading on the control panel a whole lot more accurate. Unfortunately searching "ALDE" brings up too many results to find the post.

When our Alde started playing up we swapped the sensor from remote to panel via the panel user options, the temprature reading was way out, double figures, so I took the front Face plate off to expose the heat sensor and there was absolutely no change at all. So to drill holes would be a waste of time. Our panel is mounted away from any heat source.

 

I have found both the remote sensor and especially the panel mounted sensor to be not very accurate which is a let down to the overall heating system.

 

My fault Alde say can be cured by a filter, which they supplied me free of charge, that itself says Alde recognise there is an issue why else make a filter, and therefore why isn't this filter fitted as standard?

 

Note I haven't been able to check the system since fitting it and I remain sceptical as we tried the system without the caravan hooked up to the mains pre filter and there was no change.

Edited by Simple Life

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Sensor is bottom left.

 

The faceplate just pulls off. Have a look

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I drilled the hole and I can't say it made a lot of difference but it is not that easy to tell.

 

Ian

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Hello there. You can test what effect a hole in the fascia might have before drilling it, by simply prising it off in the bottom right corner with a butterknife, small screwdriver or trim tool. If the reading isn't significantly different with the fascia removed, as is often the case if the cavity is heated, you know that there's no point in drilling the fascia.

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Interesting. I never intended to drill the control panel, it was just someone's suggestion.

 

Reading the Alde PDF I saw the pictures of the bed and sofa on the wiring diagram but could find no explanation.

 

John

 

 

Yes I saw that,anyone got an answer please ?

 

Ian

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I'm guessing that the the bed & sofa symbols correspond to the remote temp sensor 1 and 2 inputs on the back of the 3020 control panel.

 

I assume that by calling the symbols something more meaningful than 1 & 2 helps those who can't remember which is which My second guess is that SOFA refers to a sensor located in the lounge area and BED for one in the bedroom area.

 

I can see people getting confused though, especially if they plug the sensor into the wrong orifice and then can't work out whether they should use the BED or SOFA setting :(

Edited by matelodave
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I'm guessing that the the bed & sofa symbols correspond to the remote temp sensor 1 and 2 inputs on the back of the 3020 control panel.

 

I assume that by calling the symbols something more meaningful than 1 & 2 helps those who can't remember which is which My second guess is that SOFA refers to a sensor located in the lounge area and BED for one in the bedroom area.

 

I can see people getting confused though, especially if they plug the sensor into the wrong orifice and then can't work out whether they should use the BED or SOFA setting :(

I'm guessing that the the bed & sofa symbols correspond to the remote temp sensor 1 and 2 inputs on the back of the 3020 control panel.

 

I assume that by calling the symbols something more meaningful than 1 & 2 helps those who can't remember which is which My second guess is that SOFA refers to a sensor located in the lounge area and BED for one in the bedroom area.

 

I can see people getting confused though, especially if they plug the sensor into the wrong orifice and then can't work out whether they should use the BED or SOFA setting :(

I'm guessing that the the bed & sofa symbols correspond to the remote temp sensor 1 and 2 inputs on the back of the 3020 control panel.

 

I assume that by calling the symbols something more meaningful than 1 & 2 helps those who can't remember which is which My second guess is that SOFA refers to a sensor located in the lounge area and BED for one in the bedroom area.

 

I can see people getting confused though, especially if they plug the sensor into the wrong orifice and then can't work out whether they should use the BED or SOFA setting :(

I think you are guessing about right. At first I read that plugging in a remote sensor will override the built in sensor. I have now found more detail which shows there can be vatiations on this.

 

___________________

 

Temperature Sensor

If any Alde 3010-238 discrete room temperature sensors are connected, this allows you

to select:

• Control panel. Temperature is measured at the control panel.

• Living room. Temperature is measured at discrete room temperature sensor 1.

• Bedroom. Temperature is measured at discrete room temperature sensor 2.

• Auto. Temperature is measured at the control panel, but automatically selects a

discrete room temperature sensor when connected, prioritising sensor 1. This allows

the sensor to be selected with a convenient wall switch.

 

________________________

 

What a "convenient wall switch" is and how this is wired I don't know. Would have thought that selection would be by the control panel.

 

 

John

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Another guess - you can probably connect a switch in series with the remote sensor, say in the bedroom which will override the control panel sensor when operated - some might find it useful.

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Hello. That's right. Some A-class motorhome constructors fit a flip-switch right next to the bed, so the sensor can be selected without getting out from under the covers.

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I agree that with dealing direct with the manufacturer is OK and often quicker. But I never leave the dealer out of the communication.

 

Two recent examples.

 

Outdoor revolution, slow puncture in an extra set of roof poles. wrote to manufacturer copying in the dealer. Same day had a reply from the dealer saying Outdoor Revolution would send a replacement. 2 days later all sorted. great service.

 

Last year with Bradcot. Dealt direct with Bradcot, dealer said this was normal for them. At one point the dealer tried to pass on all responsibility to Bradcot and I had to polity but firmly remind them of their ultimate responsibility. They then chased Bradcot and a refund was given.

 

In the past I have had retailers try hard to fob me off so have gone to the manufacturer who have taken over and apologised.

 

John

 

I agree that with dealing direct with the manufacturer is OK and often quicker. But I never leave the dealer out of the communication.

 

Two recent examples.

 

Outdoor revolution, slow puncture in an extra set of roof poles. wrote to manufacturer copying in the dealer. Same day had a reply from the dealer saying Outdoor Revolution would send a replacement. 2 days later all sorted. great service.

 

Last year with Bradcot. Dealt direct with Bradcot, dealer said this was normal for them. At one point the dealer tried to pass on all responsibility to Bradcot and I had to polity but firmly remind them of their ultimate responsibility. They then chased Bradcot and a refund was given.

 

In the past I have had retailers try hard to fob me off so have gone to the manufacturer who have taken over and apologised.

 

John

I agree John,

Twice the dealer when faced with issues which were just out of warrenty have said that Bailey wouldn't touch it so there's nothing they could do. Phone call to Bailey and on one occasion a new microwave was supplied and the other occasion a new water pump delivered the next day. It pays not to use the dealer on occasions.

Back to topic, our alde system was using a fair bit of gas, a cylinder only lasting 3 days so not having used this type of system before I thought it normal. However it started using water so during my investigations I found that the pump was set at 5 which clearly states 'for bleeding only' and should have been on 2 or 3. After altering it a cylinder now lasts 5 to6 days and I'm happy. By the way the leak was from a bleed valve, no marks for UBC for their PDI,

regards,

Ian.

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Glad to see you are still around amigo. .....just going to bed or just getting up??

 

cheers

 

geoff

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Glad to see you are still around amigo. .....just going to bed or just getting up??

 

cheers

 

geoff

Hi Geoff,I was just going to bed but I never made it in the end as I was inspired to paint :D:D . So an afternoon snooze had to sufffice,

regards,

Ian.

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Arghh.

 

All I'm saying

Edited by Simple Life

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Say some more.

 

So temp is set at 15. 5 degrees.

 

Cycle is this.

Pump comes on until 16 degrees, then off. All good.

 

But

 

Looking at service part of panel load is still 5. 1 amps glycol at around 63 degrees. (I've turned fridge off).

 

The load remains at 5. 1 constantly and when the glycol hits around 72 degrees yes you guessed it pump turns on regardless of room temp, as if it's activated by glycol temp

 

Because

 

When the glycol drops to around 62 degrees pump off.

 

And repeat all night long!!!

 

Hence arghhhhhhhhhh😦😦😦😦😦😦😦

 

Is there a bags under your eyes emoticon?

Edited by Simple Life

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Questions

 

Why doesn't it turn off completely when it's above the desired set temprature?

 

What the bl#$dy hell is it doing and how do I stop it?

 

Good job we are on EHU otherwise gas bottle would be empty.

Edited by Simple Life

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Noticed exactly what SimpleLife is experiencing last night, only difference is that the boiler also seems to be "kettling" (little cracking sounds) when the glycol is at 72 degC and no pump running. If we turn off the EHU on the Alde panel (no gas on), the kettling stops :unsure: .

 

Think I need to phone Alde this morning.

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Why doesn't it turn off completely when it's above the desired set temprature?

 

What the bl#$dy hell is it doing and how do I stop it?

 

Hello. The Alde 3020 Compact HE will heat the fluids in the boiler ready for use. To avoid this when the indoor temp is already above desired, set Hot Water to Ignore (empty volume ramp). This can be done automatically if using Night Time Mode.

 

If the circulation pump is coming on more than 1 deg C above desired, it suggests a conflicting setting. We recommend resetting the Alde control panel. From Main Menu, go to Settings> Up Arrow> Reset, and press the red button to restore factory defaults. That should solve the problem.

 

Noticed exactly what SimpleLife is experiencing last night, only difference is that the boiler also seems to be "kettling" (little cracking sounds) when the glycol is at 72 degC and no pump running. If we turn off the EHU on the Alde panel (no gas on), the kettling stops :unsure: .

 

This suggests the heat transfer fluid might be a little weak, which can cause noisy cavitation. A hydrometer can be used to test the strength. The Maypole 701 has an easier to use wide body and is calibrated for ethylene glycol, both hot and cold. They cost around £3 and are the same type as used by Alde. On the Maypole 701, the reading should be around -35 deg C, equating to around 50% ethylene glycol or sg 1. 05.

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Hello. The Alde 3020 Compact HE will heat the fluids in the boiler ready for use. To avoid this when the indoor temp is already above desired, set Hot Water to Ignore (empty volume ramp). This can be done automatically if using Night Time Mode.

 

If the circulation pump is coming on more than 1 deg C above desired, it suggests a conflicting setting. We recommend resetting the Alde control panel. From Main Menu, go to Settings> Up Arrow> Reset, and press the red button to restore factory defaults. That should solve the problem.

 

 

This suggests the heat transfer fluid might be a little weak, which can cause noisy cavitation. A hydrometer can be used to test the strength. The Maypole 701 has an easier to use wide body and is calibrated for ethylene glycol, both hot and cold. They cost around £3 and are the same type as used by Alde. On the Maypole 701, the reading should be around -35 deg C, equating to around 50% ethylene glycol or sg 1. 05.

Thank you, we didn't get back from our walk till a few minutes ago so your office was closed, but will give what you suggest a go, reset and water to ignore, report back tomorrow keep your fingers crossed for a good night's sleep. 😣😣😣

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Hello. The Alde 3020 Compact HE will heat the fluids in the boiler ready for use. To avoid this when the indoor temp is already above desired, set Hot Water to Ignore (empty volume ramp). This can be done automatically if using Night Time Mode.

 

If the circulation pump is coming on more than 1 deg C above desired, it suggests a conflicting setting. We recommend resetting the Alde control panel. From Main Menu, go to Settings> Up Arrow> Reset, and press the red button to restore factory defaults. That should solve the problem.

 

 

This suggests the heat transfer fluid might be a little weak, which can cause noisy cavitation. A hydrometer can be used to test the strength. The Maypole 701 has an easier to use wide body and is calibrated for ethylene glycol, both hot and cold. They cost around £3 and are the same type as used by Alde. On the Maypole 701, the reading should be around -35 deg C, equating to around 50% ethylene glycol or sg 1. 05.

No!

 

Did what you suggested and no change.

 

Why when the room temperature is above the set temprature does the pump turn on?

 

That can't be right, that's putting more heat into the room that is already hot enough. In my first post of this thread I complained about too much heat, this is obviously the cause.

 

Surely it's a fault?

 

Caravan was bought new in June 2016.

Edited by Simple Life

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